| Author | Message | ||
     Inplansight |
Thanks for setting me straight, I should probably just wait for the service manual to arrive, before I _____ something up. Thanks Paul B | ||
| Blastradius |
Hey guys, I just bought my 1st bike ever. It runs well til it heats up then stalls (about 2miles). It'll try to turn but won't till cool again. I've been trying to do as much researching as i can without overloading myself. Without seeking a mechanic I've narrowed it down to the timing module. (The module led flashes faintly in the beginning but ends up dark when the bike warms) I decided to take on the task of installing/static timing myself. I hope I'm not asking a previously answered question. If done properly, is dynamic timing necessary? Thanks | ||
| Bluv21 |
Blast, You will be in the "ballpark" by statically timing it but to get it right on, you need to get a timing light and dynamically time it. Manual specifies about 1200 RPM when performing this operation. I don't know if you have already done the swap but if the timing was right when you took the module off, you could have marked the position of the module and then installed the new module in the same position as the old one. | ||
| Wjcunning |
Hey Team, good news.... The backfire problem was indeed "Das Boot", a rip about 1/3 of the way around the circumference. No replacements locally, so here was the fix... - two layers of shoe goo, one thick one on the outside, one thin one on the inside...allowed to dry overnight - two outside layers of Permatex Black heat resistant gasket material...allowed to dry overnight End result was a more substantial "Boot" that slipped right into place and solved the backfire problem completely. The repaired boot is WAY more sturdy than the original part, and the fix was cheap. | ||
| Milt |
No duct tape? | ||
| Swampy |
 No Duct tape? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, actually, static timing will get it "right on". But you'll only know this if you use a timing light (dynamic). But most of us who timed our bikes a few times, just use the static method because we know it will be right! If the LED changes, then yes its almost always the module. The hardest part is dismantling the connector. I've cut this from another thread rather than link it: "Deutsch Connector Removal: The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed (inward, towards the center of the plug) will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!!" | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome Kevin! | ||
| Blastradius |
I haven't done anything yet. Wanted to get confirmation from you guys 1st. Thanks for renewing my confidence and the welcome is appreciated. | ||
| Blastradius |
While I'm waiting on the ignition module there are a couple of concerns before taking her to get inspected. When I 1st saw the bike I thought she would pass inspection with flying colors. She was clean and only has 1600 miles. Now I had some time to give her a good once over I think she may need the clutch adjusted, not sure about the rear tire and fuel has been leaking from the carb area. I kinda wiped the carb before the pic but before then the float bowl was caked with that "fuel build-up". You think they will fail the inspection? I did some research because there was backfire & smoke through the carb and fuel seemed to leak into the airbox/filter. The search led me to draining & replacing with 93 octane/seafoam, also that the bowl may have been stuck so I did the "tap with rubber mallet" technique. Now I haven't seen fuel in the airbox since then but theres fuel leaking down the airbox from the back of the carb still. I want to take the carb off to check the float. I've read that it's not advisable to mess with it but then I've seen pull it without concern.   | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Take the airbox off, clean the outside of the carb with carb-n-choke cleaner or brakleen, make sure the airbox to the carb gasket is good, then see what happens. You are free to take the carb apart, but be warned: If you're not familiar with carbs you might be spending a few weeks trying to figure out what went wrong or buying a new carb. I would also caution that if the bowl gasket is leaking, have another gasket (or know availability) on hand. They can be hard to find and once they leak it can be almost impossible to get them to reseal. You can also leave the airbox off, put some newspaper under the carb, turn the gas on and see what happens. Monitor it regularly. I dont think that tire will pass a state inspection. Buy a Pirelli (DO NOT BUY A DUNLOP). Generally a bike with 1600 miles should need nothing, that includes the a rear tire. Maybe they used the rear brake exclusively or "burned it up" a few times. But keep the 1600 miles in mind, it should need nothing. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS there will almost always be some fuel (fuel/water vapor/oil) in the airbox. I dont know if your state inspection checks clutch adjustment. | ||
| Blastradius |
Not sure if this makes a difference in wear and tear but from what the guy told me, it was used by the dmv as a training bike. Its a 2001, if they used it that long, the wear n tear make sense? As for the carb, I don't know a lick about em except what I've read. It seems pretty straight forward but because of the many precautions I've been reluctant to try my hand. I'll clean it up. The leak will be better spotted that way. If there's one at all. Does leaving the petcock open regularly cause the carb to overflow or leak? Thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
It could, all the way up to engine lock, ask me how I know - lol - and they still would not replase the valve, I did - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is that a petcock answer EZ? (sorry, tired). No, leaving the petcock on all the time, in theory, should not present any problems. I used to do it all the time. However, if you have a stuck float as you suspect, then it will fill the engine up with gas. Famous last words "I took the carb apart to give it a good cleaning". I wish I had a dollar for every time somebody messed with a perfectly good carb and had nothing but problems afterwards. Are they simple-yes. However, besides jetting changes, they very rarely need to be taken apart or to be cleaned. Simple, yet people constantly foul them up  Again, if that float bowl gasket leaks, you'll be without a bike because the gasket can be hard to find. | ||
| Blastradius |
Lol, I'm sure you'd be a rich man by now, Gear. ;D I did plan to rejet 45/170 & 2.5 - 3 turn of the mixture. I'm not sure if it's needed if all I did for now was replace the the filter, adjust the primary, mod the airbox and stock exhaust. I did a search for the float bowl gasket (o-ring). There are a few places that sold em including Amazon. This on was the cheapest James Gasket http://www.powersportjunkie.com/JAMES-GASKET-27577 -92-p/PU-DS-174283.htm Not sure if that's what you meant. | ||
| Blastradius |
Oh yea, forgot about the the Denso racing plug as well.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Available, yes. But if you don't go by the blast part number the gasket may not fit-all cv carbs are not exactly the same. There are small subtle differences in a few parts that can make it a pia to rebuild them. In other words: running down to the local HD or Kawasaki dealer might not provide you with a gasket that works | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS jetting sounds perfect. | ||
| Blastradius |
I was thinking, what i might do is go to the salvage yard or Ebay to buy a really cheap, old and beat up carb to play with before trying hand. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
They never seem to be cheap Take your time, do it slow, ask questions, follow instruction. It's not that hard, but too many people tear into them willynilly and go hog wild with mods and cleaning. | ||
| The4ork |
i have to replace my headgasket, as it blew. yay. looking at going with a .010 base and .030 headgasket, cometic. this gonna be safe? i was thinking bump the compression up a tad. if its safe how much will it bump it? could be worth an extra hp or two... also i have to buy two of each, nobody sells them in singles for the blast. anyone wanna halves on one? | ||
| Noochmahh |
Still having a hard time cold starting my blast. does it make a big difference if you have he air box on or off while trying to start the bike while working on the carb? I have tried both but it refuses to just start without smothering the carb with my hand to kick up a bit of fuel. Had it jetted w/ 45 and 170 adjusted the A/F a lot with no success. some one mentioned that it sounded like it was lean. das boot is new w. no cracks so i bumped up to a 48 jet but it still wont cold start, or start at all really probably too rich. an suggestions? | ||
| Bluv21 |
Noochmahh, Did you verify your float measurement according to the service manual? It might not be letting enough fuel in to the bowl. | ||
| Noochmahh |
If i recall right the spec is between .41 and .45 inches. I measured mine at .43 but was wondering if there is another marker that you can use (like the gas line level on the jets sticking down from the carb if you took the bowl of careful enough not to get everything wet)? I have thought about making an adjustment but have been cautious as I know it is touchy. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Did you measure it from the flange surface on the bottom side of the carb to the outer most surface of the float? When I set mine, I measured it in 3 places along the float. I did this because the measurements are different along those points. Also, did you make sure there are no tears or pinches in the diaphram? (Message edited by bluv21 on May 29, 2012) (Message edited by bluv21 on May 29, 2012) | ||
| Noochmahh |
I only measured mine in one place. I will remeasure (in many places) when i put the 45 jet back in. The diaphragm was ripped so it currently has a new one in it. speaking of this, is it worth the effort to drill out the hole to 1/8"? seems there are mixed feelings out there. | ||
| Bluv21 |
You don't HAVE to measure it in many places but I did that because I wanted to verify if it was within spec at all points. There is enough variation in the spec though that you shouuld be ok with what you have already done but it wouldnt hurt to verify it just to make sure it hasnt moved. Did you make sure the diaphram isn't pinched between the cap and the carb? The only thing I can think of now is a vaccum leak somewhere (i.e. the diaphram) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Please, If you havent touched the float there isnt any reason to believe there is anything wrong with it. If your Blast used to run fine and if you havent pulled the float bowl, your float is fine. It doesnt change unless you change it. Only in bizarre circumstances will it change. Checking the float level is rocket science to many. If you are that concerned, measure it immediately upon removal of the bowl. But I've changed jets many, many times, carb on the bike and never messed the float adjustment once. Just takes a little care and a good screwdriver. So I'm begging, leave it alone!!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Noochmahh, You likely have a serious intake/vacuum leak somewhere. Dont drill the 1/8 hole. If you feel you must, then do so after you've fixed your problem. Otherwise you'll just add to it. How does it run after its started? With a 45 or certainly a 48 slow jet it would need barely a minute of warm up before you're good to go this time of year. |
