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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Engine - Carburetion & Intake

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For technical information and discussion of Buell P3 BLAST! Engine Carburation and fuel delivery systems and their repair/maintenance/upgrades.

Updated Jetting Notes
Jetting.docx (13.6 k)

GT - JBOTDS! EZ

CV40NOTES.doc (225.8 k)

Useful carb info - by Buelistic.
EZ

Usefull video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXKUT9HeRnM
This as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4knwjlNC1o&feature=related

Manafold Coupling Part Number# 27443-00Y (DAS BOOT!)

Stock Jetting
2000 - 2001 42/165
2002 - 2008 42/170

For exhausts that are aftermarket - 45 or 48 primary
175 Main

For the Kerker - 45 primary, & 165 to 170 main (until you cut the crossover tube off, run directly from the header the can of your choice - instant top performing system - then you would run the 45/48 primary, & 175 main)

WB/Force/ & any true performance exhaust with a min. of 1 3/4" od header in combination w/low to no restriction exhaust can:
45/46 primary & 175 Main & shim needle 0.050"

Note 1) 180 main may be a little rich for some exhausts.
Note 2) if live and dwell above 3500 ft - 44 primary
170 main
Final Jetting notes:
Actually a lot of my jetting knowledge is from my various dynos and my observations - hardly a rush - over a year to decide I was still running pretty lean over - all.

My recommendation these days would be:

Stock - 45/170

Exhaust change only - 45/175

Exhaust and intake - 48/175 or 180

All at sea level - at above 5000ft. I would have a different answer.

I'd also recommend an Irridium plug - especially the racing - for a more complete burn - you'll instantly notice the difference.

Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from full in or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle.

Shim the needle a little higher (~0.05".

The best course is to then to run your bike on a dyno equiped with a wide band oxygen sensor (air/fuel meter). Optimum safe high performance WOT A/F ratio is between 12.5 and 13.5. Anything over 14.5 is excessively lean and risks stressing/overheating your combustion chamber.

Please Note: You should not run an aftermarket intake (even the Buell Pro Series) without bracing the carb in some fashion - Most recommend Matching carb springs for cars (loop on one side, spring middle, flat length on the other end) - one each side of the carb to the head (yes - 2 holes would need to be drilled). Other brackets have also been run - usually resulting in premature intake boot failure. The spring on the left gets looped on the hard vacuum line off the carb and the flat side of the spring is fed through a hole drilled on the bottom left head fin facing the carb. The right spring gets looped over the carb body pertubrence (where the Sporster accelerator pump would go)sticking out the right side - the loop fits over very snuggly, but it does fit and again fit flat side of spring through hole drilled in bottom fin of head and secure. You want spring tightness to be firm resisting pressure when you try to pull the carb from the boot - clamps loose for this test of course. Make sure clamps, including airfilter cover clamp are tight.

The carb springs are a common item used to sinc carbs in cars - come 2 in a package - a loop on one side and flat wire on the other - the loops going over the top of the secondary jet housing (note a Blast does not have a secondary jetting, however, it still has the housing for such - you can see it clearly in the middle picture) -just fits- and the flat wire side goes in a little hole you drill on the bottom corner of the bottom head cooling fin facing the carb, the other loop going over the vacuum side plugged line to the opposite corner where the other hole is drilled. Loop the flat wire side through the holes and secure with a light equal tension on both sides holding carb securely to boot.
This link gives the best pictures - took me a while to find -
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=20164&post=1040453#POST1040453
EZ
Stack: is from American Sport Bike - for an 2000 M2 - tall velocity stack -
filter:
Just ordered some special order stack filters - 20 bucks and change per filter - you'll need a 3 1/2" hose clamp - Outer Wears Stack filter outerwears.com - the new part number is - " 12-1267-01 Black" - the old style didn't flow enough it seems - FILTERS PARTICULATE TO 0.01" IN SIZE - Most can not see a particle that size, change the oil every 2000 and no worries - the new prototypes allow twice as much flow while still doing a respectable job filtering. Install the stack like you would the stock venturi using the same specks, torque and new gasket.

No welding involved -
Buy this:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/5637.html

Call these guys -outerwears.com and buy three of these - but not on line- now supposedly a stock item - you can get in white or black - 12-1267-01 Black.

Buy a 3 1/2" hose clamp and a carb intake gasket - you now have the making for my regular intake.

part 2) Buy a small pack of JBWeld, and a small piece of 18 gauge - (16 to 24 would probably be fine), and break out the Dremel. make a cardboard template, to make sure the splitter doesn't touch the slide - barely, and that it is close to the side walls and that the 3/8" hole is 1/2" back from the edge facing the slide, also make sure the backside of the splitter is about 1 1/8" inside the stack, and that it is about 7/12ths - just a tad past 1/2 way up in the stacks height. When your mock up is done, cut out your metal splitter - it should fit snug in position - horizontal to the carb throat, test fit to make sure clearences are good, then put on cardboard - splitter side up and JBWeld both sides of the two edges touching the stack, then waite 5 hours, clean up any excess that is sliding off, then waite till its dry, test fit and trim anything that touches, sand, clean and smooth - voila - you now have a splitter stack intake.

Now if you just want one for your stock set up - go to these guys and buy theirs!
http://scaryfastracing.net/harley.html - bolt on and enjoy!

This is what the stock setups look like.

More Carb hotrodding tips!
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/124119.html?
Carb leak check and popping simptoms check:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/148788.html?1127525451

Other helpfull websites:

http://www.bcrider.com/blast1.html

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

With the above and the 2001 Archive - doing your own jetting with 12 bucks worth of jets (45/175) should be a breeze - just remember - bring the float bowl straight down, do not touch the float, change the jets quickly and correctly so float does not mis adjust itself, and then bring the float bowl straight up and secure - your done - enjoy!

Homemade Intakes
Tony/Rays
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/8849.html?1000537352
EZ's Two:
American Sport Bike Torque Stack and OuterWears Stack filter or the Pro-series and Stack filter - both are braced with springs.

Re-setting the TPS at home:
My method is very sinmple and works for any bike with tps. Disconnect the battery negative lead. Before I remove the carb I check, note and mark throttle plate and shaft location. A small scribe mark on body and shaft is all you need. Then do the same for the tps hold down. Scribe the hold down and body. Now you can clean and repair carb and put everything back to the factory location. The tps is basically a rheostat. It varies current according to the throttle shaft position using the tps as a locator. The magic box used by h-d merely duplicates voltage ranges of the cpu. If You prefer to check the actual voltage you can use a low voltage step down rheostat switch and multimeter. Set the range according to that put out by the cpu and follow the manual for the voltage you need to read. Another method is to check the resistance across the wireing harness from the tps .Reset the tps to the reading you get when you put everything back together.

Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for those jets :
45 pilot = #27170-89
175 main = #27090-89
#48 low speed PN 27165-90 (or DS289320)

Pilot Jet (Slow Jet)
Part Number Jet Size
27165-90(DS289380).........48........Perfect
27170-89.........45........Good/perfect for Hi comp piston
27171-89.........42........Lean
27281-92.........40........Very Lean
27117-88.........35........Too LEAN

Main Jet (High Speed)
Part Number Jet Size
27105-88..........200........Way Rich
27185-90..........185........Damn Rich
27114-88..........180........Rich
27090-89..........175........Perfect
27115-88..........170........Stock
27116-88..........165........Stock lean
27152-89..........160........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)
27154-89..........155........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)

Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for various carb jets :

Pilot Jet (aka Slow Jet)

Most popular jets for rejetting :
45 pilot = #27170-89
175 main = #27090-89
JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM JET NEEDLE PN 27637-00Y
The carb jetting is not all that hard to do, so just do it! Your Blast will thank you for it. Here is a link on modifying the CV carb:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

The needle shims are probably the most difficult thing to find, you may have to do some rummaging around at a hardware store, I just used some small crimp on eye connections with the crimp cut off, and the remaining washer smoothed out. It came out to .047, close enough.

The most difficult proceedure is getting the diaphragm seated in the groove properly. I seat the diaphragm in the back side of the groove cut into the carb and start gently pushing down with the cover, then I take a 6 inch steel rule(Because its flat)and push the remaining diaphragm into the groove from the front side of the carb, when you get it right, the cover sort of slips into place.

At all costs avoid using too much downward pressure, or just run the screws into the cover as you will pinch the diaphragm and the carb will not work right. If you pinch and puncture the diaphragm you will need to buy a new slide assembly and they go in the $50+ range. Gentle pressure, don't get in a hurry and you will fast become an expert at it.

A product called "Sea Foam" has been recomended for carb cleaning from so many independant sources that I figured I'd post it for your usage as well.

Carefull not to touch float, rejet quickly to protect float from mis adjusting self while hanging, be prepared to replace brass bowl screws with new ones - preferably allen heads, be prepared to drill out idle mixture screw plug (pluged by factory for EPA reasons) to get at idle mixture screw.
A good link on the topic:
http://www.trak-tek.com/products/airCleaners/ramFlo/installation/cvCarbJetting.html

8. Perform float level check as follows:
a. Place carburetor on a clean flat surface with the
intake manifold side down. See A of Figure 4-20.
b. Tilt the carburetor 15° to 20° in a counter-clockwise
direction until float comes to rest. See B of Figure 4-
20.
NOTE
The measurements will be incorrect if the carburetor is tilted
less than 15 ° or more than 20 °.
c. Using a dial vernier caliper or dial caliper depth
gauge, measure the distance from the face of the
carburetor flange to the outboard edge of the float.
Be careful not to push on float while measuring.
d. If the measurement is between 0.413 inch and
0.453 inch (10.49 -11.51 mm), then the float level is
within specification. Proceed to step 9.
e. If the float level is not within specification, remove
the float, and referencing the table below, carefully
bend the tab slightly to adjust the float level. For
example, to increase the float measurement, bend
the tab toward the carburetor body. This will have
the affect of decreasing the amount of gas in the
float bowl after assembly.
f. Install float and check float level again. Repeat procedure
as necessary until float level is within specification.

More carb breakdown pics:

Recommended jetting for better performance out of a stock Blast: 45/170, shim needle .05" (aprox. 2 brass #4 machined washers), air screw at 2 2/3rds out from light bottom - of course your gas mileage will be less - the first step into the dark side!

GT - JBOTDS! EZ

Note: Laura G. Ran a RamFlo 200 intake with spring support and is very happy with it and its performance in the LSR Salt - and its non interference with her knee - nice.
EZ
Yes, however, the gent is talking about a Dyno Jet Kit - their jets are numbered differently from the Kehin stock numbers.

Here is my usual carb work steps:Loosen Das boot, carefully remove float bowl and replace jets,put bowl back on, drill out Idle Mixture screw plug - go only 1/8th of an inch in with drill bit - its just solder blocking so careful check first also because plug has been known to fall out - turn in till bottomed - gently, then turn 2 2/3 turns out,look at the top of your carb - you'll see 4 screws - the right front corner screw (facing the front of the bike from the seat area)is also held in place with a bracket that is attached to the side of the carb - this screw is a real biatch - try penertrating oil and a #3 philips - what ever feels tightest, if nothing works, then take a dremel and a cutoff wheel and turn that puppy into a flat head screw, it will come out then, do not remove though just loosen, and reuse the screw(even if modified to loosen) - the screw on the side of the carb needs to be loosened enough to shift the bracket out of the way to remove the top of the carb off - do that carefully so you don't loose the spring that sits on a spacer that sits on the needle, pull the needle out add the 2 washers to the needle and put it back in(install washers/shims), reasemble rest and carefully put the lid back on so the diaphram doesn't tear, don't forget to tighten that side screw also. Carb done.

Hey All.

I figured while we are expecting some snow this week I would try to re-do my manual choke design.

I came across this on Dennis Kirk.
Only $17 and change.
DK Part #19287

Should tuck up real nice under the tank at 23".
And the 90bend should just clear the spine w/o kinking.

Can't wait to update progress.

Manual Choke Cable

So, after hours of racking my brain, again, with trying to figure out a better way to convert over to manual choke.

This is what I came up with:

First, I wanted to make do with the 'stock' parts of the auto-enricher, mainly to save money and trips to AutoZone...

I did however require 2 purchases.

1) The Choke Cable
Dennis Kirk DK Part #19287 @$20.00 shipped.
2) A Pack of Cable locks from AutoZone. @$5.00
In the 'HELP' section. Pack of 3 different sizes, I only used the 5/16" (middle size) one.

Here is stock setup of auto-enricher.

stock

Here is all pieces I used to convert to manual.

First drill hole in back of unit for cable to secure to. You will notice it has a perfect recess where the heater element was to drop your adjuster nut into, and
Spin the nut tight to the cable stop.

This is the silverish cup w/o-ring. I drilled an 1/8" hole from the inside through the bottom, but ride the drill bit against the edge. This is where the cable will come thru and we need to keep the center clear for the roll pin.

thruhole

First, drill a 3/64" hole thru both sides of the plastic plunger, Right up against the bottom flange. This hole is where the pusher rod(roll pin) from the wax unit will go to secure everything.

rollpin

Now to drill this small hole, I used a metal file to flatten out enough to drill straight thru. Now, we want to drill the metal parts perpendicular (90deg) to the offset hole in the bottom cup and the side holes in the cable lock.
I also opened up the side cable lock hole to 3/64",it was hard getting the cable out.

Here is where small fingers help. I cut the original spring in half, and put on each side of unit to help equalize any tension differences. Install one half spring in back of unit w/cable strand thru it. pull the cable end thru the cup and cable lock and out the side, adjust to where the roll pin hole is just about inside of the main unit before tightening down.

adjust

I filed the pin down a bit to the diameter of the flange on the plunger.
Pop The plunger onto the cable lock assembly and push roll pin through. Install second half of spring and screw the cap on a little bit.

final

Adjustments are minimal. The throw of the cable only allows about 2/3 choke, when on, but it started right up today, upon assembly, and its like 14deg in Michigan. You will want to adjust the 'choke off' position to just barely closed, to get the best position.

I have yet to mount the lever, but have a couple possible ideas, ran out of time for the day.

choke mount

So, the cable i ordered is about 8 inches too long for a clean mount. I had to weave it through the frame to keep it from kinking, but over all not too much hassle.
Since I still have all of this extra plastic on the bike, I decided to mount the lever here on the air scoop.

Thank you goes to Bottlefedbuell for this cool how to.
EZ

What we know about the Dynojet kits:
kits, so now I know the following - their needle is fatter and shorter - still shim to .05 or go down a notch, their jets are actually one size down from the stock jets they are numbered after - aka a 170 is really a 165, and their emulsion tube is a bit longer - nothing you can't work with as long as you know what your working with - sigh - but their instructions are still all wrong for a Blast. Use the twin instructions for a Buell M2 for better guidance - though using lower jets.
EZ

CV40 Kehin diagram and parts pages:

P3BuellBlastParts2007-carbparts1.pdf (175.3 k)

P3BuellBlastParts2007-carbparts2.pdf (258.0 k)

A simple inexpensive method to create your own Manual Choke with part numbers and cost -
http://buellridersonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10824&p=76794#post76794

Intake Alternative: -

Go here buy this stack - http://speeddealercustoms.com/product/harley-cv-carb-velocity-stack-black/
Do not use their filter - to restrictive.

Call Outerwears.com and order the Blast Stack filter

Connect it to stack using a 4" to 4 1/2" hose clamp - painting black optional.

Now your breathing as good as it gets. Re-route hoses. Enjoy!

Start New Thread

Thread	Last Poster	Posts	Pages	Last Post
I've looked all over...	Unit562	4	1	05-23-17 12:28 am
Gas leaking out airbox	Gearheaderiko	5	1	11-11-13 12:47 pm
Carb bracing idea.	Ezblast	8	1	09-15-13 01:20 pm
Rejetting w/ corner cut & velocity stack.	Calebw	8	1	08-09-13 04:51 pm
I think i screwed something up	Swampy	7	1	05-29-13 09:20 pm
Velocity Stack is discontinued...other options?	Gearheaderiko	10	1	05-01-16 11:23 pm
180 jet questions	Xenox	8	1	04-08-12 09:03 am
Dyno Jet and tuning	Britchri10	46	2	12-06-11 08:19 pm
New AR, still no cold start cure	Ezblast	4	1	09-17-11 12:09 am
Ordered an Auto Enrichener	Mountainstorm	6	1	08-10-11 12:23 am
Sputtering and popping from the airbox, not das boot.	Gearheaderiko	8	1	08-07-11 03:52 pm
K&N Air Filter Drop In, Anything else required?	Gearheaderiko	6	1	02-10-12 11:41 pm
Somebody stole my screws!	Gearheaderiko	10	1	07-07-11 09:28 am
How sensitive is the float?	Berkshire	24	1	07-30-08 04:35 pm
No cold starts	Ezblast	8	1	03-29-11 08:14 pm
Installed tall velocity stack, what filter do I use? Or just clamp ...	Ezblast	5	1	04-22-09 11:14 am
Im a bit confused .....	Ezblast	4	1	05-19-08 01:32 am
Blast MPG Poll	08uly	39	2	08-30-08 12:51 pm
Troubleshooters, please help a newbie! TIA	Mattdub	16	1	11-05-04 12:10 pm
Intake - What will work	Ezblast	40	2	06-16-11 10:34 pm
Where is the air/fuel adjustment plug?	Ezblast	2	1	05-15-05 08:42 pm
Air-Fuel Question???	Fast1075	31	1	04-14-08 07:40 pm
Carb Boots	Gearheaderiko	38	2	05-29-08 11:16 pm
Carb Boot Part #	Ezblast	25	1	06-14-15 10:53 pm
Fuel Petcock Replacement	Jprovo	2	1	08-28-05 10:39 pm
Switching to Reserve after using 1.1 Gallon only?	Jprovo	5	1	10-03-05 05:29 pm
Pro Series Intake	Ezblast	48	2	12-07-08 12:31 am
Fuel venting system	Gearheaderiko	15	1	05-07-11 01:26 am
Low Fuel	Gearheaderiko	11	1	04-27-09 08:14 pm
Fuel Filter	Marijane0569	12	1	05-23-06 10:21 pm
Air Box Mods	Hld01blast	34	1	04-06-09 07:23 pm
Hypercharger and the Blast?	Ezblast	5	1	12-30-04 03:50 pm
Pro Series Exhaust & Intake -vs- Carb Question	Ezblast	4	1	04-28-05 06:26 pm
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Flex Fuel	Tnthumper	3	1	09-07-05 11:40 pm
Quick question about fuel line	Abtin2	4	1	11-17-05 04:41 pm
Rejetting question...	Toniportray	143	5	03-29-08 08:32 pm
Carb swap	Gearheaderiko	3	1	05-28-06 11:18 am
Shim needle or N65C needle	Hld01blast	15	1	04-06-09 09:03 pm
Relocating crankcase breather/catch can location	Gearheaderiko	31	1	10-29-18 12:58 pm
Substites for factory intake coupling ?	Joey	4	1	10-31-06 09:11 am
EZ's air box mod	Ezblast	8	1	05-22-21 08:15 pm
New Blast Jetting	R80rt	12	1	12-05-06 06:22 pm
Pro series air cleaner w/stock exhaust	Swampy	16	1	09-28-06 07:37 pm
Fuell Injected - How to/Can Be?	Ezblast	52	2	11-18-10 12:54 am
Gas dripping from airbox	Robi	13	1	09-08-10 07:11 am
883 carb on blast	Buellistic	20	1	07-08-07 07:24 am
2006 blast carb jet sizes	Gearheaderiko	34	1	06-06-12 03:58 pm
2000 blast with carb trouble fixed by:	Buellistic	10	1	06-23-07 11:48 pm
Damaged mixture screw while drilling out your plug?	Buuueller	3	1	08-06-07 05:07 pm
Vance & Hines pipe, jetting, etc.	Matadormkv	3	1	09-05-07 12:43 am
High altitude re-jet???	Ezblast	18	1	09-11-07 09:12 pm
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Air Filter	Tnthumper	5	1	12-12-09 01:29 pm
Carburetor help	Bob71	14	1	07-08-11 07:32 pm
Carb upgrade for blast	Ezblast	7	1	06-13-10 03:38 pm
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Carb issue and 4/5th gear	Swampy	2	1	03-07-12 10:42 pm
Cleaning The Stock Air Filter	Jjcool	3	1	02-27-12 12:43 am
Dual Carb, Single Cylinder	Milt	7	1	01-29-12 09:22 pm
Cold start/ carb cough	Ezblast	22	1	01-26-12 01:17 am
Carb clean went bad.	Jetlee	2	1	12-11-11 10:16 pm
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Message

Weighttopowerr

Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 03:59 pm:

Hey guys, I know this has probably been answered, and I've read through most of the posts in here, but I just can't find a sufficient solution. I have some passenger pegs and mounts from an xb lightning that I am going to put on my blast as the rider pegs (I won't have passenger pegs with these on, my girlfriend can get over it though). It will move my feet back somewhere between the stock rider pegs and the stock passenger pegs. What can I do with my intake so its not all up in my knee? anything? Here is what I have now and the elbow/m2 velocity stack is what is in my way. I need like an inch or two more of clearance.

Gearheaderiko

Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 08:33 pm:

Different filter. You've got the elbow and there are a variety of long filters that will work better (like the ProSeries) K & N or Uni filter. Or a different elbow. Or you could throw EZs favourite Outwears filter on the end of your elbow instead of a filter.

Weighttopowerr

Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 09:55 pm:

Another question, can I create a "yost tube" by taking a tiny drill bit to the stock jet tube?

Ezblast

Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 - 11:39 pm:

No - the yost tube is double walled.
EZ

Jetlee

Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2012 - 01:43 pm:

As EZ said, the Yost is a tube inside a tube.

If you can duplicate that, you can make a LOT of money!

Yalo15

Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 03:40 am:

I'm thinking of buying a d&d exhaust pipe for 2002 buell blast. So this is what I'm thinking abt doing.

Buy the d&d pipe then buy the k&n high flow air filter then re jet it buy buying slow jet #48 then main jet #180.

So I'm wondering if I'm in the right track, what should I do and donts? And is there anything else I have to do besides that?Thanks hope you guys can help me

Yalo15

Gearheaderiko

Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 11:51 am:

45/175, 2 shims on the needle. Start there. Going to max jetting is a waste of fuel (mpg) and kill performance. The D&D is a small diameter pipe so max flow isn't possible negating the need for over rich jetting (it's a fine pipe though).
They do make a #46 slow jet too (easy to find, Bike Bandit has them, among others), if you think you need it.

Jetlee

Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 12:20 pm:

I don't know why people are wanting to go to 180 so much anymore. I didn't have to do that until I went with my Force-clone exhaust and XB cams...very high flowing. Constantly talking people down from the 48/180 combo to 45/175.

Ezblast

Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 12:38 am:

D&D - 45/175 - same as a Pro-series, a V&H I would go 46/175. All with stock type intakes - even with air box mods to the max - lol
EZ

Gearheaderiko

Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 01:34 am:

I concur with two of my most trusted peers!

Jetlee

Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 10:50 am:

I didn't know you were in town, Erik! I was down in Anaheim visiting my visiting buddy from AR, got home and saw your FB post about an airport and headed home or something like that. I was like, "Aww! I woulda liked to buy him a beer or two."

Gearheaderiko

Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 11:19 am:

Bummer. I didn't have much spare time though. The week was bookended by dentistry and spiritual enlightenment! I did get to ride everyday in the absolute perfect weather that is Southern California.
It's good to have friends that will lend you their (American)) motorcycles