| Author | Message | ||
     Roblast |
Hey Guys, I've got this black powdery coating on my rear wheel & the outside of the rear tire. I don't remember noticing it before. It doesn't feel oily, and if I rub my finger across it, it comes off reasonably easily…. but it certainly wouldn't just blow off. If I had to guess, I'd almost say it's kinda rubbery feeling. Any ideas on what it might be? I'm running the ST66 as my rear tire. Also, I'm starting to see some fines cracks in the sidewalls on my front tire. I know that it's time to replace it, but any clue how urgently? My riding is mostly county highways w almost no turns. Thanks. | ||
| Milt |
Sounds like the top layer of rubber is oxidizing, something that happens in a tire's golden years. How old is your tire ? http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.js p?techid=11 | ||
| Roblast |
The tire says DOT XE FM C2525110 I assume that means it was made in the 51st week of 2010, making it a little over a year old. Could it be oxidation? If so, how do I prevent / stop it? I assume it's something to be a bit concerned about... | ||
| Swampy |
Is it brake dust? | ||
| Roblast |
I have no idea… How do I tell? It's on both L & R sides of the tire & wheel. I figured brake dust would be mainly on the disc side, but that's just my thinking, and certainly could be wrong. | ||
| Swampy |
I wouldn't worry about it, just use some soapy water and scrub it off! Nothi8ng more than probably a combination of brake and road dust. | ||
| Roblast |
I can definitely do that! The bike is due for a spring washing anyway. Glad it's nothing to be worried about. … and about my front tire - any clue how urgently I need to replace it? Seeing hairline cracks in the sidewall rubber. I commute 50 miles ea. way & don't really want to deal w/ a blowout in the middle of nowhere. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How old is it? What brand? original? I've rarely heard of a blowout from an old motorcycle tire and I'm doubtful yours is old enough for it to happen. Keep the appropriate tire pressure in it. | ||
| Roblast |
Yup - it's the original MT-75. The Blast is an '08 and it looks like the tire was made at the end of '07. I definitely keep the pressure at recommended. The hairline cracks in the sidewalls, aren't they signs of aging rubber? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, they are the signs of aging rubber. But an '07 tire I wouldnt worry too much about unless you left the bike parked out in the sun (like Arizona sun), unridden, underinflated, for extended periods. You can use an Armour All type protectant on it since you arent much in the corners. Just be real careful to keep it on the sidewall. If the sidewall starts flaking off, get a new tire, asap. In short: I'd be concerned if it were an 2000 Blast with the original Dunlop and only then if it suffered the above abuses. | ||
| Roblast |
Thanks, I figured, but better safe than sorry. I'll be wiping it on with a rag - carefully. | ||
| Mpenalver |
I'd like to change my tires, but I can't get the rear wheel axle out of the wheel/swing arm. Tried a mallet, a vise (against the right side of the swing arm and the end, and no movement. Front came off no problem. Anyone have any ideas or advice. I've always thought that axles came out smoothly (once unbolted). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Does the axle spin? | ||
| Mpenalver |
Thanks Erik. It didn't spin, but after liberal application of both liquid wrench and the mallet it budged just enough to give me hope. 20 min later it was out. I felt ridiculous smashing the axle for so long, but I guess that's what it takes. I struggled with the tires for a bit and then decided that if I took them to the shop I could at least sit on a few bikes. If anyone has experience with removing tubeless tires from these rims with just a pair of levers let me know. I'd love to learn the technique. Took a long victory ride today and missed two busses and a train to NYC. I love this bike | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The axle should be coated with anti-sieze or at least lubricated before its re installed on the bike. Otherwise it will be just as difficult to remove next time. It's often easier and cheap to have the tires changed at a bike shop. Takes practice to do it with tire irons and you'll learn to have everything clean and 'lubricated' at reassembly, so they'll come off easier next time. It can be a real struggle to do the rear by yourself, especially on on old tire. Your struggle with the axle indicates the tires would have been equally as difficult. | ||
| Roblast |
I need to replace my front tire, and if I get the wheel off myself I can get it changed much cheaper than the shop doing it for me. I've read the manual, and it looks pretty straightforward. Anything I need to look out for? I've never done this kind of thing before. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just unbolt the caliper, dont bother with pulling the pads out. But before doing so use a large screwdriver and spread the pads apart (pushing them/pads and piston back into the caliper). The caliper will only come off through a hole in the wheel. If you try to get it out with a wheel spoke in the way, you'll curse and say "it cant be done"! | ||
| Roblast |
How do I get the large screwdriver in there to push apart the pads? It's not obvious to me. The pads are CLOSE (as in virtually an air gap) to the rotor, right? Is there somewhere else I pry them apart? Once I push them apart, will they stay there or do I need to do that for reinstall to get the rotor between the pads? | ||
| Ezblast |
Use a mechanics Flathead and do that slowly and gently - very serious - use a flat bar to gently keep them pressed back during the assembly process. You should be fine. What you do not want to do is F-up the pistons. EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
You can also open the bleeder screws to make it easier. | ||
| Roblast |
EZ - what's a "mechanics flathead"? Is it thinner at the tip of the blade? Crackhead - makes sense… Is it that much easier not to remove the pads? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you have a brand new Blast pads will be easy to remove. If your Blast is older or weather worn you might have problems. Removing the pads is the long way around (heck, you can actually remove the front wheel with just unbolting the axle-but you wont get it back on that way). You can even just unbolt the caliper and push the pads back without any tools. No special tools are required. Follow the manual. Remove the pads and that might give you a better understanding of what I mean. Next time you can take the short cut (but some very capable people I know still remove the pads). But at least you'll know how to do the brakes. | ||
| Roblast |
Erik - that makes much more sense to me. Pull the wheel w/ it all assembled, then spread the pads & unbolt the caliper to reinstall. I was just worried about dinging the rotor… I know me, all too well. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Actually, how its spread is by forcing the caliper over which pushes in the pad and piston. Just jamming a screwdriver between the pads really isnt kind to the pads (but probably wont matter). The appropriate way when you do the brakes is to use a C-clamp to push the pad and piston into the bore. You wont hurt the rotor unless you apply great amounts of leverage to it. | ||
| Jetlee |
I use a screwdriver on the used pads, leverage against the rotor, to push the brake pistons back in. Only takes light pressure and patience. I'm throwing away the old pads anyways. | ||
| Roblast |
Got the wheel off, decided to pull the pads, as it just wasn't that hard to do. Got the tire changed, put it all back together BUT now I hear a slight scraping when I rotate the wheel. I took it apart, reassembled it (a couple of times) and I can't find the cause. When I put the pads back in, I had the bike hanging by the bars, so the wheel was off the ground. Could that have misaligned something? Any other ideas? The rotor doesn't seem warped, and it wasn't scraping before I had it apart. (Message edited by RoBlast on April 22, 2012) | ||
| Jetlee |
Your brake pads are supposed to drag on the rotor slightly; it prevents rocks and crap from getting in there. Unless it's really dragging on the rotor hard, don't worry about it at all. | ||
| Roblast |
Nope, it's not dragging hard at all. It's just a very faint scraping noise when i rotate the wheel. I swear I didn't hear it before I pulled off the wheel / pads, which is why I was concerned. I just checked all the torques w/ a torque wrench, and they're all good. Strangely, the bike is back on the ground, and the noise is gone or at least when my ear isn't 3 inches from the brake / rotor I can't hear it any more. All is well. Thanks for all the help. I really learn a lot here, and save a bunch of $$$ avoiding the stealerships. Besides, I like working on my bike, I think it's fun!!! (Message edited by RoBlast on April 23, 2012) | ||
| Tahoeblaster |
Does anyone know what the rebuild kit for the rear caliper is? I have seen this, but don't know if it is the correct kit: 17084 - 98-02 Nissin Rear Caliper Rebuild Kit \http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/?app=c cp0&ns=prodshow&ref=17084 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Caliper (or parts) should be the same as an XB. I would think this would be the correct kit: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17087.html Why did you choose the early kit? |
