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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Ignition, Battery, Charging System - Electronic Trouble shooting » Blast loses ALL power « Previous Next »

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85shelbyc
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recently replaced R/R on my 03 Blast today and took it out for a ride. It was fine the first ride but the second time I decided to take it for a longer ride. I got about half a mile from my house when it died. All the lights on the instrument cluster and headlights went out and would not come back on for about 15 minutes. I'm assuming this could be a stator issue? Because the R/R is new. The battery seems to have been overcharged again, which was the reason I replaced the R/R in the first place. Any help would be great because I really enjoy this bike when it does run
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

R/R ?
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85shelbyc
Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The regulator/rectifier assembly.
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you have problems like that it probably is not the stator.

I would start checking every "heavy" electrical connector, and ground on the bike, especially the engine to frame ground.

These bikes are not big mysteries, they are very simple and easy to diagnose. Usually problems result from screwing something up when you put it back together.

One time a guy bought a Blast for his girlfriend. It wasn't running very well and he cleaned out the carb and put it all back together again. The engine ran nice afterwards but was breaking up at 3/4 throttle. He tried everything twice and posted on this site. He just hapened to be close by so he brought it over. He had put the needle guide in the carb from the top not the bottom, easy find and easy fix.
Moral to the story is, recheck your work.
Good luck, tell us what your find!
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85shelbyc
Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, I did recently have a fork seal replaced also, which is exactly when this began to happen. Looks like I get to check some loose grounds, faulty wiring, etc. I'll definitely keep posted
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 01:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Probably loose front ground - should always be tight and clean.
EZ
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85shelbyc
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My connection was badly corroded around the frame ground. Since it was the wrong battery (liquid type), battery acid was leaking out of the vent hole and got on the ground location. Where is the front ground located? Is this the same ground I'm talking about or is it actually in the front area? I haven't been able to test and see if this fixes it because I need a new battery first (pretty expensive for a college kid).
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The front ground is near the horn (frame to engine ground).
The ground you are referring to is the battery to frame ground. Either way, if a ground is bad its going to cause problems. (most cars have multiple grounds-the Blast only has the two-if I remember correctly.). Often, if a ground is bad, it will still ground through the clutch cable, but it may cause sporadic or inconsistent symptoms.
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85shelbyc
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That actually explains a lot then because I can let it sit there and idle all day but as soon as I begin to let out of the clutch and engage, it dies. I looked for the ground but I couldn't find it so I'll be looking again around the horn. Thanks for your help.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you let out the clutch and it dies, it's a bad safety switch (or your kickstand isn't up).
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or Das Boot - engine under load with cracked boot will die as well.
EZ
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