| Author | Message | ||
     Young_gun_rider |
Hey guys, WOW I havn't been on here in a while. I have been focusing on school and work. Recently, I got some muck in my tank (long story... involving little sister, my dog, and a stick) Anyway.... nothing thick.... just all mucky water. My question, is that is there a way to empty my tank, and drain all the fuel? YGR | ||
| Bluv21 |
I've never drained the tank but the way I would do it is disconnect the gas line from carb with the fuel valve off, place a suitable container under the fuel line, turn the gas on and let it drain. I would then turn the valve to the reserve position and drain that as well. I would also clean all of the fuel out of the float bowl as well just in case anything got into the bowl. I would then remove the petcock and let any excess fuel drain that is below the petcock. Anyone else gone through this procedure? | ||
| Britchri10 |
Do as Bluv21 suggests. If you don't get all the bad stuff out take the tank off the bike, invert & shake until everything in there exits thru the filler cap. Tank removal & installation is really easy & should only take 10 minutes. Chris C | ||
| Bluv21 |
After it drains you could also add a little bit of fuel (with the petcock assembly removed) just to flush any remaining sediment through the petcock hole. When you put more fuel in after reassembly, I would suggest adding seafoam or similar to address the remaining moisture in the tank. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 30, 2012) | ||
| Young_gun_rider |
Thanks guys. MAN I love how people on here always respond SOOOO quickly. I'm not gonna lie; I AM gonna soon upgrade to a bigger bike such as the ZX6R, or possibly the R6, but man am I going to miss the hospitality of this forum. Now.... regarding Bluv's post.... I just pull the black hose that is attached to the tank (on the top of the tank) and turn on the gas? Or is it the other end of the same hose (now I notice since you said CARB.) Will this drain ALL the liquids from the tank? Even if it's standing straight up? Please be specific... as I'm a noob... I'm new to all mechanics infact... (I'm only 16, and this is my first vehicle) What's a float bowl, and what's a petcock? Sorry for being a noob! YGR | ||
| Milt |
petcock == fuel valve (on/off/reserved) | ||
| Bluv21 |
Send me a PM and I will send you some excerpts from the service manual that should show you where everything is located. The thing on the top is in case the bike rolls over and fuel doesn't spill out and potentially causing a fire ball or other horific flaming secondary accidents. In a nutshell, there is a fuel line running from the valve (the thing you gotta turn to the ON position before riding on the left side below the tank) to the carb. This feeds the fuel from the tank to the float bowl where the carb does it's magic and turns the fuel to a fuel air mixture that can then be fed into the combustion chamber. This line in held onto the fuel inlet by a hose clamp. what you want to do is: Edit: You might want to remove the airbox before these steps to make is easier on yourself. Less cussing = more patient, calculated, logical thought processes. 1) Loosen the hose clamp (make sure the valve is off before you do this) there will be a small amount of fuel in the line so be sure the protect your engine with plenty of rags to catch the fuel. Pull the hose out and make sure its facing down. 2) Place a container below the hose and turn the fuel valve on. Let the fuel drain and then turn the valve to the reserve position. 3) Loosen the petcock to according to the manual and let the remaining fuel drain 4) Add a little fresh fuel to flush the remaining sediment (if any). 5) if the fuel valve was on during the incident, you should pull the bowl off just to be sure. See carb page of the service manual to remove float bowl. There will be fuel in the bowl so be careful not to spill. Also, try NOT to strip the screws holding the bowl on. They are soft cheap s&%t screws made in china. I would also suggest replacing these with new screws (316 stainless is preferable and readily available but 18-8 works too) The spec is M4 - 0.7 thread pitch 14 mm length. You really can't find a 14mm length in the hardware store without ordering it from mcmaster or fastenall. Try to locate a fasten all near you and give them the spec of a M4-0.7 thread pitch and a 14mm length in a socket head cap style head (3mm drive I believe is standard). If they don't have a 14mm length, they should have a 16mm lengh that should work ok and make sure you it is at least a 18-8 stainless. Plain alloy steel will corrode over time. IF you strip the heads of the current screws, you can crack them loose with some needle nose vice grips. BE CAREFUL with this if you do it. Try to hold the carb upright while doing this because you don't want fuel getting into the upper part of the carb. When you pull the bowl off, try not to disturb the plastic float under it. Don't push on it or pull on it, NOTHING. Resetting the float is a pain in the a$$ and requires patience and tools. Once you clean the bowl out, put it back on and reattach the gas line and be sure to tighten the hose clamp back. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 30, 2012) | ||
| Young_gun_rider |
Wow. Thanks everybody, and especially you, Bluv! It all was very helpful, and if I come across any issues, I'll make sure to PM you, and take you up on those excerpts, Bluv! YGR | ||
| Bluv21 |
Also, if you don't want to take the airbox off to get to the carb fuel line, you can also take the fuel line off on the petcock (identified as the "Filter Strainer" below) and replace it with a suitable tube that will help you drain it more efficiently. There will most likely be fuel below the petcock so this is why i suggest removing it to drain this remaining fuel. Also add some fresh gas to further flush the sediment if there is any (through the petcock hole with petcock still removed) I have pasted a diagram below.  | ||
| Syonyk |
The mechanical stuff has mostly been covered. I'd personally suggest pulling the tank off - it really doesn't take very long, and you can slosh gas around to get the crud out of ALL the corners. You should probably also pull the petcock out and reverse-flush it to get crud out of the filter, because a semi-clogged filter is a pain. I'm not gonna lie; I AM gonna soon upgrade to a bigger bike such as the ZX6R, or possibly the R6, but man am I going to miss the hospitality of this forum. Have you considered upgrading the Blast? There's a lot more power to be had in them with an intake, exhaust, and some tuning, and a lot of fairly cheap work that can be done on the suspension. They're cheap to fuel, cheap to put tires on, cheap to run, great in town, and a boatload of fun on the twisties, if a bit slower than a pure sportbike. They're also more comfortable.  Just a suggestion. |
