| Author | Message | ||
     Bluv21 |
I did exactly as the service manual says to set the ignition timing. However, I cannot get the light to go on no matter how far I turn the module when i put it in neutral. I tried going one full revolution but still nothing. Am I doing something wrong? I went past the mark a but was able to back it up. Does it matter if I go past the mark and back it up or will it not work right if I go past the mark? Otherwise, do you think it is burned out LED in the module? (Message edited by bluv21 on April 14, 2012) | ||
| Bluv21 |
By the way, the module is the old part number. I read on here that it was pretty common place for the modules to go out on the 2001 models. Recommend a new module? Thanks! | ||
| Styxnpicks |
i know this may sound silly, but was the key on and kill switch on or off? i've made that mistake a few times myself | ||
| Bluv21 |
Kill switch was off but the ignition was on... does it need to be on? Service manual didn't say anything about it... I'll try that out tomorrow. It didn't even occur to me! *Note to self. Punch self in face at next earliest convenience | ||
| Styxnpicks |
yeah the kill switch needs to be on. I think most of us have done that | ||
| Jetlee |
Been there done that ... facepalm'd myself. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Ok THUMPer land, I might have a problem. While verifying the static timing, I noticed that the light on the ignition module is coming on at the advance timing mark (2 dots before the vertical line). I have read that the light should come on as the mark is entering the window but it is coming on way before! Is my cam off? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Huh? What instructions are you reading? Put the TDC vertical line in the window then turn the ignition module until the LED light just comes on. Tighten the screws down. Anything else you are looking for is irrelevant. If your ignition isnt even close to getting the light to come on then you might be 180 degrees off or one revolution of the crank. Did you mark the original location of the module just in case you flub things up? | ||
| Bluv21 |
Well in that case I think I was doing it right. However, there is a range in which the LED stays lit even with rotation of the module. For me, I had turned the module clockwise until the light went off and then back counter clockwise until it just came on. I could have gone further counter-clockwise and the light still would have been on. How do I know which is the correct timing position or would all positions be correct within the range in which the module rotates as long as the LED is lit? I assume the light comes on when the sensor hits the gap in the rotator cup and stays on as long as there is no metal between the sensor. By the way, I followed a link posted here http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Blast/ Stock/Set-Timing---Static-Method In it, they describe the vertical timing mark coming into the window from the left and the LED coming on. However, when I tried that, it would not work for me. The light comes on at about the advance timing mark. Is the method posted on this link inaccurate? | ||
| Jetlee |
The way I've done it, and as I did in the video in that link, is when the tdc mark is coming into the window the light goes OUT. I've been confused at all the back-and-forth on the subject, but this method has worked great for me. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Ah ok, I was looking for the light to go ON. I will try to adjust it so when the light is coming in from the left the light goes off. The way it is now is the light goes off as the mark is exiting the window which I do not believe is correct. It makes more sense and to have the light go OFF when the mark enters the window. Thanks for the clarification. The post said "Keep turning (such small increments that you will swear you never moved the wheel) and it should light up as soon as the mark begins to enter the window." I belive this is incorrect as you have stated and it should go off instead. Do you agree? Thats two punches to the face this week that I owe myself! (Message edited by bluv21 on April 17, 2012) | ||
| Jetlee |
You did it just as Penguiness described in the text. The way I did it in the video (and described above) has always worked well for me. Which one's correct? I dunno. My way has solved starting issues with members and I've not melted a piston (yet). | ||
| Bluv21 |
But the light should go OFF (as you said) as the mark enters the window. The way she described it, it should go ON. There is no possible way to do this as module wont turn that far. the LED turns ON at about the advance timing mark (which makes sense because in the dynamic method, the light should illuminate the advance timing marks and the light on the module is associated with the firing of the spark plug) | ||
| Jetlee |
Mine has always made sense to me! lol Believe it or not, I've never dynamically timed mine. I was thinking about it this morning, though. | ||
| Bluv21 |
If you think about it, the sensor's constant state is on. The only time it turns off is if there is something interrupting the sensor (i.e. metal from the rotator cup). you can verify this by taking the sensor out, the light will be on without something interrupting it. There is a gap in the rotator cup and when it aligns with the sensor, the LED illuminates. So theoretically, as long as there is an alignment of the rotator cup gap and the sensor, the spark can be initiated anywhere. In reality there is only a small range of adjustment so the question becomes, where should the spark stop (and ultimately begin)? As the piston is coming to TDC (mark entering the window) or as it is leaving (mark leaving TDC)? This is only a difference of a few degrees but it can make a difference. There is no mehchanical advance so I think you have to find the "sweet spot" in the sensor position. Where that is is anyone's guess... This is an excerpt from an article about cars but the concept is the same... If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes engine ping. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already passed TDC and started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. This will cause the piston to be forced down for only a portion of its travel. This will result in poor engine performance and lack of power. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 17, 2012) (Message edited by bluv21 on April 17, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/676286.html?1334778632 I think you're looking for problems that dont exist. There's virtually no difference (as you stated) whether it be going off or going on. Its just in the direction you're turning the module. "Static timing" is the secondary method of adjustment if a timing light is not available (per the repair manual). Regardless, if you have a problem you should do both procedures. First static, then dynamic. For those of us who have done it many times, we've already found out that static is usually right on the money (either method) and dynamic verifies it. Its only when we want to 'customize' the ignition timing that we pull out the light. How long the LED light stays on is irrelevent (unless there is an actual problem-or you're trying to back engineer a module). All the timing cup and LED do is mimic the performance of the old points. Thats all it does. The coil doesnt know the difference, it just needs the appropriate time to build voltage. FWIW: Sometimes the timing cup bolt will come loose, rare, but it happens. Then the timing will change at random because of the loose cup. But its easy to check by pulling out the module. | ||
| Jetlee |
Careful with those screws into the housing, though. I still need to order that new housing... |
