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Archive through May 03, 2012Gearheaderiko30 05-03-12  12:56 am
Archive through April 08, 2012Bluv2130 04-08-12  09:43 pm
         

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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Backfires are a symptom of the boot and it can also cause a boot to split. It can also be the result of just being too lean, bad timing or a faulty safety switch.

The knock could also be a too loose chain, but lets get the timing first.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sometimes the only way to tell if the boot is bad is to take it off. The split is always where you cant see it! But if you take it off and it looks good, it probably is. The next problem is usually the clamps being too loose or too tight.
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Evanj11
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To test for leaks on das boot, could I mist or spray water at it with the engine running?

I have tried adjusting the clamps too loose, and also as snug as seems right (and then a bit more), but it makes no difference.

How about a cooler plug, possibly the NGK DPR9EA-9? I saw that was recommended to someone else.

The only issue I have with the different plug is that it seems to be a patch, not directly addressing the problem.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 01:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WD40, carb and choke cleaner are better for testing. I'm not really seeing the boot as your problem at this point.
I do think you're a little low on your shift points. But I think you'd have to really be on the gas for it too knock. Like I said, you cant hurt the engine if you rev it all the way out (but if there's major knocking, thats a different story).

I dont think a different plug is in order either. Now if this was august, 95 degrees and you say after about an hours ride you're getting knock and ping, then maybe a cooler plug. But I'm hearing after a short ride you're getting knock?! What I'm getting is that this is a major issue, not a minor concern.
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Evanj11
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tried, WD40 and water on the boot, neither one produced a change.

I get the knock any time I rev it. Video of engine knock:

http://youtu.be/Pjvhr5MKG0M

First section of the video is in first gear, second section stationary.

(Message edited by EvanJ11 on May 03, 2012)
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds more like a bad lifter.
EZ
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Evanj11
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm assuming it isn't smart to ride it with a bad lifter?

I will read through the service manual and try to get in there this weekend.

Any advice on what to inspect/look for, will it be obvious?

(Message edited by EvanJ11 on May 03, 2012)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

True about the lifter, but I really couldnt tell the difference just from a video clip. My valve train is that loud anyway!

You can ride with a bad lifter. It is sometimes (besides removal) the only way to get a hydrolic lifter to pump back up. If it is actually making noise, it isnt making much (from what I heard). They'll collapse just from sitting for long periods (like your Blast did).
Your other choice is to replace it and thats a bunch of work.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS I dont hear it knock like a collapsed lifter and at that point they dont really run very well.

But if your mechanic friend listens to it he should be able to tell (maybe?)
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Evanj11
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sweet, I'll hop back on it

Really sucked getting in the car everyday as soon as it started to get nice around here.
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Bluv21
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doesn't a knock/ping sound like a bag of wrenches being tossed around in your cylinder when you engine is under load?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes. But he's complaining about an actual "knock" from engine parts banging together.

Evan: The lifters are the same as in a car. Usually they start to make noise when they are going bad or when the engine wasnt run for a very long time. They rarely just completely collapse. If it does, it will make a lot more noise and run very poorly. If that happens, definitely stop riding it.

It would be nice for someone to actually listen to it "live" since EZ hears a bad lifter and I just hear normal valve train clatter. Per the above it should sound just like a bad lifter in a car.
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Evanj11
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2012 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It appears to be performing the same as the day I got it(other than the noise), but it is hard to recall a good base line - many minor problems so far... and hidden gems of damaged and bent parts : (

Oh well, I've learned my lesson for a second time now = don't buy a used vehicle that sat around with nearly zero miles on it. Had problems with a car that sat for years. "Basically New" no longer applies after five years.

My motorcycle mechanic I have lined up still hasn't had a chance to check it out.

"Your other choice is to replace it and thats a bunch of work." - Erik

Like removing/dropping the engine?! That is what it looks like after reviewing the troubleshooting and inspections procedures in the service manual

Erik - you also mentioned that the hydraulic lifter would collapse after sitting for a while, however the bike ran for a few hundred miles before the noise began. There was an extremely faint clicking noise since day one, not sure if that is related or another issue needing to be resolved.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You don't have to pull the engine, you just undo the front mount and lower it. But you will have to pull the head, that's where all the work is.

The lifter collapsing was just one scenario for when an engine sits idle, not necessarily yours. The lifter failing after being okay is unusual. Possible yes, but not common. One possibility is low oil pressure. That will let the lifters "bleed down" .
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Evanj11
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was able to get someone to look at it today. They didn't seem too concerned with the noise. He did comment that I may have switched to synthetic oil too soon? Never heard of this.

I got my new boots too, going to replace the old one to see if it makes any difference with the occasional backfires.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you havent changed the slow jet to a #45 do it while you do the boot. Installing the #45 might cure your backfiring too as they are very lean from the factory.

Synthetic oils are said to hamper regular engine break-in, but these days it depends who you talk too.
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Evanj11
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Das boot failed. Bike wouldn't idle at first, then it wouldn't run at all. Pulled the boot off and it was split in three places.
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