| Author | Message | ||
     Bluv21 |
Has anyone replaced their float bowl screws with plain alloy steel socket head cap screws? If so, have you had any problems with galvanic corrosion where the screw thread contacts the tapped portion of the carburetor? I don't know what the carb is made of so it's hard to tell any corrosion resistance. Thank you | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Where are you leaving your Blast where it will be subject to such harsh corrosion? I wouldnt worry about it much either way (depending on the harsh conditions though), but stainless steel is easier to find when you drop them (and a better risk)! | ||
| Bluv21 |
Sorry I wasn't clear, I wasn't talking about environmental corrosion. I was talking about galvanic corrosion. Putting 2 dissimilar (very dissimilar) metals together will cause one to corrode depending on which is the cathode and which is the anode. Alloy steel will corrode aluminum without some type of protection. You can find charts to predict this type of corrosion. Do you know what the carb body is made of by chance? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, my bad. Why not just use stainless steel? You can use anti-sieze on the threads and not worry about it either. I'm just not thinking its a big deal. I'm sure the carb is aluminum or aluminum alloy, but thats not telling you much  Maybe someone else will chime in here..... | ||
| Bluv21 |
The problem is I can't find stainless in that size or thread pitch (think I might have to settle with a 16mm since 14mm is an odd size for some reason). Although I only looked at Home Depot and Lowes. Gah, why can you only buy an ungodly amount of fasteners from mcmaster carr? I'll have to look for a specialty fastener shop here. Did a little looking around. Seems like the carb is made of aluminum so zinc coated steel fasteners might be the best bet. It will work well in a humid climate such as Alabama where I live because the moisture would act an electrolyte and Zinc and AL are close to eachother in the galvanic series so hence a reduced potential. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 04, 2012) | ||
| Milt |
I've bought 10 washers from McMaster-Carr. They hand delivered them that afternoon, to boot. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Where do you live though? Don't have a mcmaster carr here till Atlanta | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yup, just use anti-sieze, that's what its for. Every carb I have taken apart is steel screws into an aluminum body. | ||
| Bluv21 |
Going with a 316 stainless in the original 14mm length. Shouldn't need to use anti-sieze with this. Plain alloy steel at the hardware store WILL corrode the AL carb body over time. Just an FYI (Message edited by bluv21 on April 04, 2012) | ||
| Buellistic |
Any time you have dissimilar metals it is wise to use torque'ing compound any where there is metal to metal contact ... First time "i" had my float bowl off it went back together with allan screws ... | ||
| Swampy |
Allen screws rule, for those small screws that need to be tight they will really do the job. Don't worry about the corrosion. |
