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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2012 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Jetlee for the picture. At least you knew what I meant!
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Noochmahh
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2012 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Today i learned that there is an upside and a down to the needle jet. Just looking at it you cannot tell which way is up. can anyone clue me in?
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

after reinspecting my needle seemed a bit damaged so ordered a new one but Noochmahh asked what I signed on to ask and could that have caused problems upside down?
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Jetlee
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Needle Jet can be upside down, and it can cause problems. The hole should flare at one end, the longer end...that end should be up.
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Allen77360
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 02:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

any ever heard marinetex for fixing alluminum?supposedly has 4000 psi tensile strength. that should hold my clutch bearing in place.
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Johneblast
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use to use it on my sailboat when needed out to sea. I wouldn't expect it to last long term. It is great for when in a pinch to get you to a replacement part, but again, I wouldn't use it for that kind of perma-fix. JBWeld is another option, but I would get the part replaced. If it is a moving part, band-aids only last so long.
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Johneblast
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've used marinetex on a sailboat I had and it works great in a pinch until I could replace the part when I got back to port. JB Weld is another option, but putting band aids on moving parts only last so long. I'd replace what ever it is that is broke with the real deal. Besides, if it were to crack/peel/break, you would have crap in your gear box that you wouldn't want.
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Allen77360
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my alluminum welder suggested it. he said its also stronger than the original jb weld.
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd love to see the spec comparison on that!
EZ
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Cmat
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a question about possible bent triple tree. 2001 Blast that I thought had a bent handle bar. (son laid it down with minor damage) I replaced the bar because when going down the road it drove straight as long as you dont look down at the bars. But if you look down at the bars it appears that the bar is crooked. When I try to put the bars straight the bike will veer to the right. It seems to be off by only a few degrees but it is enough to bug you. This is the same problem it had before I replaced the bar. Could the triple tree be bent and causing the problem? To look at the tree and the forks you can't see any damage or problem. If this is the problem will I need to replace the upper and lower tree?

Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

More likely that the forks twisted or a fork leg bent. Though I've never had to do it, you might try loosening up the lower pinch bolts and straightening up the front end. You can also do the same by loosening up the top pinch bolts. Dont loosen up all four at once unless you have the front forks supported or they will slide through the triple tree.

Too see if a fork leg is bent remove the front wheel and fender. Loosen the pinch bolts and spin the fork tube in its mount. If its bent you'll see the lower (or axle hole) wiggle back and forth.

Hopefully all that made sense!?
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Swampy
Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome to the Thumper Forum Cmat!

I would try looseing every thing up, support the bike under the muffler, get the front wheel up, loosen the fork tubes, loosen the axle pinch bolt, give everything a couple of thumps, and tighten everything up to spec, then with the axle pinch bolt still loose push down on the front end a couple of times and torque that also, you should be good to go!
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Cmat
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 07:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely check the pinch bolts. Hopefully nothing is bent past a simple adjustment. Parts are getting harder to find with the exception of salvage parts.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can run with slightly bent forks. The Blast takes a crash exceedingly well. You really have to try very hard to do major damage. So just "dropping" the bike is very unlikely to do much more than twist or bend a little.
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Milt
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For those Blastards who might want to come to HC2012 but do not follow the thread on the Quick Board:


http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=4062&post=2194879#POST2194879

I know a few of you who have awesome skills. Just saying.
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I beith confused. Did a rejet after exhaust change, found out my needle was bad. got a new needle put in and let the bike warm up. warm up was fine and got on the throttle fine. two hours later was ready to take her out for a test ride. warmed her up and just when I got my helmet on the bike died and couldnt really muster a good start up. I appreciate all yours guys' help
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Jetlee
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is your petcock in the ON position?

I often forget and leave it off after working on the carb.
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It sure is ( double checked as i thought the same) would not shimming the needle cause this
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Jetlee
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What's your pilot jet set at? If it warmed up and the choke went off, it could've went lean without the choke-fuel and shut itself off.
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its a 45
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Jetlee
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I dunno why I asked the pilot jet, I meant the idle mix screw. It should be at least 2-1/2 turns out from soft-bottom.

I feel so dang dyslexic lately.

(Message edited by Jet-Lee on March 16, 2012)
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

haha it was at 2-3/4 then 2-1/2 and i think the last i tried was at 3 and got a start to slow death. At that point I was out of light
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

think I need a 48? all I did was the stock exhaust mod
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 01:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No. The Blast is a very forgiving little bike to being out of tune. It will likely run with any slow jet in it as well as wherever the needle is shimmed. Same with the main jet size. Unless you were really way off on jet sizes.

How did you know the needle was bad? Was it doing something strange with the old needle?

What needle did you replace it with? Did the numbers on the needle match?
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Jetlee
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 01:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd consider my engine almost radical, and a 46 is almost too big. You don't need a 48.

I was more concerned if you had it like 1/2 turn...even then mine still runs.

Does the light on the ignition module flash when the engine is turning over?

(Message edited by Jet-Lee on March 17, 2012)
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Leondosvicrius
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No flashing same needle. the old needle was chipped at the end. btw id like to personally thank you guys with a shout at ez. you three have been awesome with advice : ]
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Allen77360
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 02:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if its none of that switch petcock to reserve, just in case fuel is to low. and/or check float level.
note im no tech
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the LED on the ignition module is not flashing while you are turning it over you have an ignition problem. I would start there...
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Limelight
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got my used crankshaft, about to drop the engine and split the cases. What do you guys feel about taking her to a 515cc while I got her apart? Anyone done just the jug/piston swap and used same head and valves/cams?
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Jetlee
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your light isn't flashing, your ignition isn't firing. Double check it by holding the plug to the head while cranking the engine. I usually wedge it into the fins, cause I don't have my clutch switch bypassed.

Use a different plug for this, not the installed one; leave that one screwed in.
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