Author |
Message |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 12:40 am: |
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p.s. I wish the owners manuals at the top of the screen would work. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 03:03 am: |
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See my group for a semi working version, HD took away the other - spit! EZ |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 10:16 am: |
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Noochmahh - Your jetting may be correct taking the stuck choke into account. That would mean that starting cold is just like not using a choke. Pure speculation here. So, when you test the AE with 12v, it works properly, correct? When you check the output from the plug, you get 9.33v, but after you plug the AE into that 9.33v, you have zero? |
Txkblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 10:52 am: |
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Whats a good site to find the value of my Blast. I need to sell it and get my # of vehicles back down to 2. |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 11:05 am: |
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The value ultimately comes down to what someone is willing to pay. Some have sold for $3k in near-stock condition, while others that are modified go for about $1500-$2000. Post it up for what you want out of it, but remember that they were only ~$5k brand new. |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 11:14 am: |
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My jetting is 45/170 the jack does show 9.33V when tested but when i hook up an amp meter it reads 0.0 and the choke is not heating up and shutting. The choke did work when I hooked it up to the battery directly. |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 02:48 pm: |
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...I'll think on this. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 10:39 pm: |
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http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle taking into account what Jetlee wrote. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 10:44 pm: |
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Welcome Orion815! All Blast engines are interchangeable and are virtually the same. 2005 will hook right up without any modifications whatsoever. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 10:45 pm: |
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Orion815: What are you doing with the old engine? |
Orion815
| Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2012 - 04:25 pm: |
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Awesome! Thank you gearheaderiko. I'm just replacing one on a 2002 that I bought with the engine locked up... |
Limelight
| Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 10:05 pm: |
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Fun Fun Fun. Bike ran great for several weeks, drove it to 4 places in one night, went to gig, came back from gig and won't turn over. Starter engages, moves bike with no clutch. Clutch engages and disengages. Sounds like box of gravel. Pulled ignition module and crankshaft isn't rotating on starter engage. Week later get chance to trailer bike home. Pull primary cover. Crank nut is loose, pull primary and clutch basket with chain. Stripped crank shaft and primary sprocket. Buddy who is a certified MC Mech stops by and can't believe it. Explains why treads on crankshaft were slightly buggered. We can only assume the wrong chain with the extra slack stressed the crankshaft. Pics coming soon... 1 step forward, 2 steps back. Primary and secondary nuts had been torqued to specs and loctite'd... |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 12:20 pm: |
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Sorry to hear that. Is the spline gone on the crank? There are two ways to fix it...replace the crank shaft or tighten the crank nut down to spec, and weld the nut to the crank and nut to the sprocket. It is a final fix and any future repairs to the primary requires that you replace the crank, but it is a cheap fix. Yes the weld will hold because you are only talking about 30 HP. Again, sorry to hear of your misfortune. |
Limelight
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 03:23 pm: |
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Oh yeah, gone on crank and sprocket. Now I know why primary nut was impacted on and nearly broke my arm trying to break it free when I replaced primary chain. Splines looked good before but buddy feels they had already been over stressed and on the way out and I got the luck of the draw. Plan is to buy used crank and primary, replace, and then sell bike. Pulling engine, splitting case and pulling crank isnt a big deal, it's finding a place close to press it back in. It was fun while it lasted, time to move metric.. New RFL#7 - Rule For Life: Never buy anything from a hippy but weed. |
Mwmcdade
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 07:09 pm: |
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can i do the stock exhaust mod without any other mods? and where do i find the details? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 07:31 pm: |
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Welcome! Yes, but since the bike is jetted lean from the factory you should at least change the slow jet to a #45 If you're looking for added performance then rejecting is a must. If you just want louder, then don't. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 07:34 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/6806.html?1329193069 |
Mwmcdade
| Posted on Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 07:42 pm: |
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just looking for a little louder and to warm up to working on it. and thanks for the help. |
Limelight
| Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 09:55 pm: |
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Mwmcdade - Buy the jets, emulsion tube, and spring online. Change your tube, jets, spring, drill plunger, shim needle, and reset airbleed screw to 2.75 turns all at the same time, then do the exhaust mod. You're going to be fighting with the carb day and night if you do the exhaust mod first. It's about 30$ for everything and worth it. You must pay the Harley tax... |
Syonyk
| Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 10:27 pm: |
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And $30 is a darn cheap Harley Tax! But, yes, trying to do anything involving more air with stock needle/jets is silly. Unless you live at 5k+ ft. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 11:43 pm: |
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Well......no. The Blast is a very forgiving little bike that can deal with great variances in tuning and still run just fine. If you change just one thing on the Blast and it gives you problems, its very likely you already have other problems or installation is wrong. And if you dont know your way around a carb, changing everything at once is likely to have you looking on e-bay for another carb! In addition, changing all those things insinuates that the carb is worthless. Its not. Just start with the basics. Changing parts because someone else said you should without really knowing what the intended purpose or result is rather pointless too. I wish I had a dime for every time someone came here, changed everything at once and then we spend pages and pages of thread trying to figure out where they went wrong. After they finally get it running right, they just turn around and sell it because of all the trouble (sometimes they give up completely and sell it not running or part it out). Hey, I'm all for mods, but take it easy if someone is new to wrenching. Stepping off the soapbox now. |
Mwmcdade
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 07:29 am: |
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that seems to be a lot of work for one extra hole in the exhaust.i'd be willing to do the #45, but i think i'd be stepping into a pile if i tried all that other stuff. |
Noochmahh
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 01:39 pm: |
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SO The Auto choke is no working on my blast. I tested the actual choke and it works so I tested the Jack it plugs into. The positive is putting out 12V. Tested the ground and got bad readings. so I chased the wire and found that the ground goes to the ignition module. does the ignition module control the choke? example: only energizes the choke if the engine is running? the bike runs so if the former is true could the problem be a bad ignition module? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 09:59 pm: |
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Its possible. I've often wondered how the choke works in relation to the module and for how long and there is an explanation in the repair manual about it (somewhat). But since I havent had a stock carb or ignition module in a long time, I havent a way to actually test it. I do think you should start the bike first and then test the ignition module ground. FWIW: The Blast doesnt fire the spark on the first rotation of the engine (from what I remember). It may not turn on the auto enrichener until the engine starts (or turns over). Otherwise the 'choke' would be coming off while just trying to start the bike or if you just left the key on while putting on helmet and gloves, etc. What was your initial problem again? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 10:01 pm: |
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Definitely start with the #45. It's something that should definitely be done, mods or not. |
Mwmcdade
| Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 07:21 am: |
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thanks, that will be first. |
Allen77360
| Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 10:45 am: |
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i have 2002 blast. primary chain is loose even when fully adjusted. The sprockets look great. The tensioner is wore down. I have alot of slack in chain when case is off. Any chance i can take a link out or just hope that a new tensioner will be thick enough to tighten the chain? (Message edited by allen77360 on February 29, 2012) |
Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 10:56 am: |
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I believe the primary cover has guides that take some of the slack out of the chain. Also, the chain will always be slack. Try replacing the adjuster shoe first. |
Allen77360
| Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 07:43 pm: |
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buell choke cable on ebay supposed for 92-06. idk about that, but check out the pictures. lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/Choke-cable-BUELL-92-06-ke ihin-cv-motion-pro-1-/260888818578?pt=Motorcycles_ Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cbe2f7392#ht_8 58wt_952 |
Jetlee
| Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 07:58 pm: |
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The Blast uses an auto-choke, not a manual. Although the auto-choke can be retro-fitted to be a manual choke... |