| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
ROFLMAO!!! Free internet in jail..... | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Drain the carb's bowl into something and check for water. Like oil and water... it doesn't mix with gasoline either... even the kind with alcohol added. I usually use a dark colored spray can cap and a flashlight makes it easy to see the water. Idle / low jets pull from further up in the bowl's supply... runs lousy as soon as you get moving and it starts drawing up fuel. Just had it happen with a CB900C i'm working on... same symptoms but four times the fun! | ||
| Limelight |
Easiest way to check the choke I have found is to remove the carb, remove the top cover, diaphram and spring/needle. You can see the choke plunger through a slit that is under the diaphram. Turn the key to the on position and watch the plunger for a few mins. You can see it move as the autochoke warms up. If it doesn't move, check for 12v at the harness. If you got 12v, autochoke is bad. | ||
| Rainman |
Thanks guys....rained all week and have crap to do this weekend so not sure when I'm getting to it. I think the float bowl is the likely culprit considering how it sat and then died when I flipped to reserve. Will let y'all know how it goes when the weather clears and I'm released on bond. | ||
| Limelight |
Updates on my repairs... For sure the WRONG primary chain. Compared to new one and it is 2 links longer. Was so long that the harley primary chain block tool would have slipped right off. Used a couple of pieces of 1x4 between front and rear sprockets, in fifth gear, and foot on rear brake to break nuts loose. Front one was put on with impact gun for sure. Chain was so long the 1x4 would fit under it and sprocket. Once I got the nuts loose took nothing to remove assemblies and swap out chians. FYI...put the new chain tensioner on first and then front and rear sprockets. Was a real bitch and spent more time trying to get it back on than the entire repair took. Finally just removed nuts again and did it first and put sprockets back on. Night and day! Got her started up and WAYYYYY quieter than before. Rode her around the hood a few times, did the chain adjustment by hand, let the new clutch cable settle in and then readjusted clutch at cable and in primary case. Once again, just in time for a cold front. I'll take her out tomorrow and open her up. ps. Anybody who watches WWE Smackdown will see me almost get smashed by Big Show from this friday's Laredo show. I'm on the floor next to announcer's table rolling cable for camera op. Black hat. Look of terror on my face...Good thing I was wearing teflon pants. | ||
| Limelight |
oh yeah, whole primary chain swap took less than an hour and nothing anybody should be afraid of. | ||
| Ezblast |
When you where in there you did the shift pin check, new detent plate and clips, sanded/smoothed the edges of the stator wire protection plate, did the shift pawl adjustment as well - please say yes to these questions and make a guy feel like folks are listening/reading what has been written. your primary chain should be loose, just above making a sound. Your clutch as well is well adjusted with the lever pulled in for the adjustment. - Say yes to this and no tree dancing is needed - lol - otherwise grab a part, well grab cameras and we'll meet you at the tree! EZ | ||
| Limelight |
Should I buy you dinner and a movie too? Honestly no. I was planning to but it was 30 outside and a 5-10 mph wind up my ass. Working on it in the yard. There was still a bit of metal filings on the back of the sprockets. Cleaned them off best I could but I plan on draining the fluid and going back in the primary in a week or 2 to do the rest and most likely upgrade the clutch pack. It was cold and I've only had 30 mins on the bike before it broke so I figured best to ride it a few days before I do the rest so I can actually tell the difference. Took it out today and got it up to 60, ran great, sounded, shifted great except for missing second gear a few times but I'm sure that's my fault. It did popcorn a few times at about middle throttle but only when I really throttled hard. I need to grab a timing gun and dial her in I figure. | ||
| Themagster |
Rainman, the Other McKenzie here, got a call from the bondsman asking for me to put my Blast up as collateral for your release. I would have, but it's in repair stage, they wouldn't accept it. Sorry about that man. As possible kinfolk, I had to try. On a more serious note, hope you and Limelight get have total resolutions to the repair issues. We are all charged now with keeping these motorcycle icons alive and on the street. I asked Swampy in my Pulley link on the quickboard to shut the door. I am getting ready to hit the road this morning in 30 degree temps from winds coming right out of the great white north. Those race drivers picked a great weekend to test. | ||
| Ezblast |
LL - thanks for the offer, but I have enough groupies - and to help, turn your air screw out a bit - a bought a quarter turn, you should be golden then and no popping. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
So I've been out of the loop for a while. I'm free from my past. I'm getting rid of all those things that tie me to that past, including my Blast. See Blasts for sale if you're looking for one. This is not the end, though. I'll be looking for a new (LOL!) Blast once I get myself situated in my new life. I'd like to have a Firebolt as well.  Anyway, once I get my life back on track, you'll see me here again, posting my ignition, LED, and dash ideas and pictures of the prototypes. I never did get to EFI, but the future is still there! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Rather ominous post. Good luck with your new life. I've found you can never completely shut out the past, and it did get me to where I am today. | ||
| Limelight |
Rgr That EZ. Just did the exhaust mod and put a new exhaust gasket on. OMG. So much better. Popping died most of the way on ride I just took around the hood. Screw was my next target. I like to eliminate one thing at a time like sherlock holmes. Promise to do the shift pawl, pins, and detent plate before the end of the month if it makes you sleep better, lol. | ||
| Limelight |
http://youtu.be/OD8yawlTs-o Audio of my exhaust mod. | ||
| Ezblast |
sure will! - lol  EZ | ||
| Syonyk |
Weld your ••••••• Jardine can onto the lead pipe. Or crank the input strap down as tightly as you can. And then about another 10 turns. And maybe another 5 after that. If you crush the can input and the header, I think you're almost tight enough, maybe another few full turns. Then it might not fall off. At least until it cracks the weld. Is there any way to get just the can for a Jardine, or do I need to order an entire new system? Mine is now somewhat crushed and destroyed. I assume the can alone is probably more than just ordering a full new system, though. Also, while going back to retrieve it, my gf hit cinder in the shoulder, wiped out, and did some damage to the Blast and her gear. So, I need a new shift lever, a new left windshield mount, a new left footpeg, and if I want to do it properly, a new windshield, a new fuel tank, and a new tank cover. And possibly a new footpeg mount on the left. And I think the fork orientation is a bit tweaked, but I'm hoping that when I pull them off to replace the fairing mount, things line back up properly when I reinstall everything. Nothing seems bent up there (other than the fairing mount). And a new handguard plug, and possibly a new handguard (it's pretty torn up). And new gear for her, at least helmet/pants/jacket. Expensive ••••••• day. | ||
| Limelight |
Ouch Syonyk! Got a used gmax 68S helmet for 50$ on craigslist, got to really open her up on the back roads. Guess who was in town today? All the RUBS on their 30-50k harleys. One of my test roads does 4 90 degrees with a S turn on each side, plus hills and a railroad tracks. Past that goes into wide left curve under a bridge, merges with 2 other backroads, goes through a town of 2 buildings, then hills and s curves and a long long long long right hand curve that takes you under a train bridge and the back on the main loop to do it all again. Like it was made for riding. Well, drop 70 to 40 for the 2 barn town, 1 being the general store/bar and the place is full up with harley riders. I shit you not, every single one stopped talking, turned, and watched me ride by with a WTF was that look. I'm not sure if it was the hopped up diesel lawn mower sound or the sportster growl when I laid off the throttle and pull the clutch coasting by. Same thing happened in another small town 15 miles away. They stopped walking, turned, and stared me down as I rode by trying to figure out wtf it was they had just seen. Like McDs...I'm luvin it. First big ride tomorrow early morning, 100 miles to austin for gig and then back. I hope she makes it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just call Jardine directly, they'll more than likely sell you just the can. I found most of the Blast exhaust manufacturers will (either can or headpipe). | ||
| Syonyk |
Huh. The can was only $140 shipped (the entire muffler can). That's a whole lot less than I was expecting. Thanks for the suggestion! | ||
| Limelight |
Great first of couple 200 mile rides. Bike handled great in the hurricane rains that just came through. Having a issue with hills though... I'm riding through a lot of hill country and on the down side of the hill I'm getting some hiccups from the motor once in a while. Gas sloshing into the vent line possibly? It seems to happen more on the cold days where the temp drops 10+ degrees going into these valleys.. | ||
| Ezblast |
Try turning the air screw out a 1/4 turn - what jetting are you at - have you shimmed your needle? EZ | ||
| Limelight |
I'm almost to 3 full turns and havent rejetted or shimmed yet. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Have you done anything to the engine? You really need to at least change the slow jet to a #45. | ||
| Limelight |
Just drilled the exhaust, 1/3 of airbox internals removed. Stock airfilter. Was waiting to rejet and full airbox mod/KN airfilter, shim needle at same time. Just picked up the shims. Hoping to grab the jets later this week while at the Harley Conference. | ||
| Ezblast |
Interesting Blast news - Just to share some info, I went for PBI sprockets 520 chain, 17T front with 67T rear, this gives a 3;90 final drive and it works just fine. I used the stock Blast rear wheel with 1.3 inch spacers and hardened bolts to bolt the large sprocket directly in place of the old belt pulley/sprocket. After fabing up a chain roller/adjuster it runs out just fine... The "hotter"gearing even helped with the narrow friction band on the initial clutch engagement. I know I lost a bit of top speed, but the bike is going to be used around town and on fire trails so its all good. Interesting, but loosing power? - hmmm EZ Chain Conversion - | ||
| Johneblast |
Fire trails? Are we a volunteer fireman?lol | ||
| Forerunner |
God I hope not! The place would be a cinder by the time you got there on the Blast! lol Nels | ||
| Limelight |
Shimmed the needle with 1 #4 copper washer (couldn't find brass, mole weight was close enough) and drilled the vacuum hole to 1/8th. Once again, WOW! Throttle is MUCH for responsive and you can feel the pickup on WOT. Now I just the KN filter, new jets, and power tube...can't wait! Had to lower the idle speed a bit, was running fast after shim and drill. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, I dont remember what the stock Blast final drive is so is that lower or taller gearing?! Interesting, but bolting on big sprocket really isnt a revolutionary idea. But it is the simplest way to go (if you want a chain). I can say though that I'd have to have a darn good reason for going to a chain because there's no way I'd give up belt drive unless there just werent any other options. I've put way too many miles on chains to know that belts are better. I've probably made that statement about chains countless times, but I'd hate for somebody to go through all the trouble to convert to a chain and then find out why Harley and Buell used a belt! But it is an interesting update on an old idea. | ||
| Orlandoslug |
not sure how to start a topic; but, hopefully I will get some help... FRUSTRATED!! first a brief history… …got an ’04 Buell Blast with a little over 1k miles on it, which had been used very infrequently by Owner’s teenage son. On first test ride, started and ran well, showed signs of minor abuse (bent foot peg brackets, replaced blinker, etc.); however overall appeared almost new as one would expect. next time when we went to go pick it up, when we arrived, the Owner was a bit distraught saying he had started it up to make sure it would start (because it had been a while), and left it idling while he went inside for a moment. Unfortunately, while he was inside, it vibrated off it’s kick-stand and fell on it’s left side, breaking front blinker, scuffing front headlight plastic, and probably hitting the shift lever (there was a rough scuff on the outboard end of the shifter). it had just happened when we arrived, and we could see the scuff marks on the driveway. the bike was to be a beater commuter for my college age son, so I let him test ride while I chatted with the Owner; as he was driving off we heard an odd clunk, but at the time I passed it off to my son being a little rusty on his shifting. So we signed over the title and I took off to ride it home… …pulling away from the first stop sign in the neighborhood, I heard a disturbing clunk as I let out the clutch to pull away in 1st gear; I immediately turned around and talked to the Owner, and he said to take it to the Harley dealership, and he’d pay for needed repairs. …so we took it right away to the stealership, who after nearly two weeks pronounced that it needed new dogs and would cost over $2k. When quizzed, they said they hadn’t taken anything apart; but, that their mechanic that maintained all their Rider’s Edge classes test rode it and this was the prognosis, and that ‘no’, there weren’t any simple adjustments that could be done. after paying them $50 for the diagnosis, I hop on it and ride it home to ponder how to proceed…at this point I’m getting paranoid because it seems a lot worse than when I dropped it off (would they purposely have abused it so that their diagnosis would most definitely be the correct??); also, I’m wondering whether any Harley dealers have been known to “back-date” the mileage of the used Rider’s Edge bikes they sell (this one showed only 17 miles on the title when the previous Owner got it). I just couldn’t imagine how a single owner could’ve abused the dogs enough before getting the hang of it within the 1st 1,000 miles? I’m thinking are American bikes all hype? (why would millions of people swoon over Harleys that apparently can’t stand up to abuse that every other bike I’ve ever owned would’ve taken in stride?) so here’s what I’ve done (not being able to afford turning it over to a mechanic) after pouring over the info on these pages, here’s what I’ve done: • change engine & primary oil to amsoil • adjusted clutch at primary and lever • adjusted primary chain still no luck, so I kept going… • removed primary cover • removed primary chain as a unit • replaced shifter mechanism & bushing (probably didn’t need to, but I though it was slightly bent and may have been grinding slightly against ring gear – probably just manufacturing grind marks) • check shift drum pins length as best I could with gauges (they were all good) • adjusted shifter pawl (when I first undid it, I noticed that the upper bolt was not torqued much at all, so I figured I had found my problem – that it had land on it’s shifter, and knocked the shift pawl adjustment way out of whack) • cleaned primary/transmission drain plug (there were some gritty filings on the magnet; but, I believe this was the first time it had been taken out for a cleaning since new, as previous Owner hadn’t gotten around to doing the 1,000 mile service) I test rode and it was vastly improved over the ride home from the dealership; but, it still did it occasionally. It felt like sometimes the shift was a dud; didn’t “clunk” like normal, and would subsequently engage with a loud clunk as you let out the clutch to take off (almost like things weren’t lined up properly). But, a few times it would seem to “clunk” normally when you dropped it into 1st, but would occasionally pop again when you started to let out the clutch. because it wasn’t always dropping in with an authoritative “clunk”, I took it apart and did the shift pawl adjustment again; this time trying to be very careful, taking into account the looseness of the shift mechanism (someone had told me to push in on the shifter mechanism / try to hold it perpendicular when doing the adjustment) in order to mimic how it’s held once held in position by the primary cover. I also checked that it equally moved the shift drum in each direction. my questions are: • how sensitive is the shift pawl adjustment to shift mechanism (the part the foot shifter’s attached to) position – does everything have to be held perfectly like it will be once the primary cover is put back on? • Is there a way to help the first gear dogs to engage any deeper? • Could this just be break-in related, so it will get better as everything loosens up / slides a little better? (I have basically only ridden it home and done test rides only) • How much damage does it do each time this 2nd “clunk” occurs? (is it killing the dogs, or if I take it easy it may fix itself as all the parts start to mesh together) • Is the bike so crappy that the dogs might actually be shot after only 1k miles? • should I write it off as a lesson and buy a M2 Cyclone with a trap-door so I can become a dyed in the wool American motorcycle fan? …if you’re still with me, any input or advice would be deeply appreciated |
