| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Much better picture and I agree with Swampy about primary chains, but damn that looks bad! There are 2 chains, a 94 link and a 96 link and I wonder if they put the 96 link chain on instead of the 94. Or its just really really stretched. If Harley cant get you a chain or any of our sponsors, J & P cycles carries chains (as do most HD aftermarket suppliers) as its the same Sportster chain from 1957-2011. *I trust genuine HD/Buell parts more than I trust aftermarket stock replacements. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS The chain guide and gasket will be much harder to find. An XB gasket can be made do, but you'll still need the chain guide (you could probably ditch the chain guide too as long as you keep your chain adjusted. I think the Blast is the only model that uses one). | ||
| Crackhead |
The XB primary gasket works just fine and is a better quality gasket then the OEM Bast gasket. | ||
| Limelight |
Should anyone take advice from a crackhead? lol | ||
| Odd |
I have a chance to buy a 2010,Blast low miles perfect shape, whats a good price? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Perfect? Whats "low miles"? My guess would be $3500 or less, but I'm not sure they'd take it. Really depends on mileage, who owns it and what was it used for (Riders Edge bike?). | ||
| Odd |
bought at the dealer new was not a riders edge 1500 miles not a scratch on it | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I cant imagine buying it for less than $3500. Last year made (??), de badged and only a year old. But maybe thats just me, a Blastaholic! Transferable warranty? Extended warranty? They might be willing to give it away. But if they arent, a good deal might be found on an older Blast with the same or less mileage. Just my opinion. | ||
| Limelight |
I paid 750$ for my 2002 with 8k miles. But been about 150$ in gas and parts/service and about to drop 200$ more on the rest of parts. Round here (texas) the blasts are around 13-1600$ on craigslist. (Message edited by limelight on December 29, 2011) | ||
| Limelight |
So the plot thickens.... Well, got my parts order in with Stubbs Cycles (best guys ever!) but of course going to take almost 2 weeks to get my parts since warehouse is closed for rest of the year. Decide to put primary cover back on to keep the rain out and notice I have 2 extra rubber grommets that were on the shift shaft squished between shifter lever and primary casing. Already knew the shift shaft oil seal was bad so ordered another one with the parts order. Flip one of the rubber grommets over that was on the shift shaft but clearly not in the repair guide and WTF, it's a shift shaft oil seal that was slightly to big for the hole. Yup, that seals it, wrong parts used on this bike. Love it! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Since you're into it this far, can I assume you'll do the shifter pawl adjustment (highly recommended)? Bike Bandit is also good for ordering OEM parts Once you get it all fixed, it will be a fun reliable ride. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS You're learning why Harleys have gotten such a bad rap over the years on reliability. They left the factory fine...then people started working on them  | ||
| Limelight |
Yup! Gona do the shifter paw adj. once the rest of my parts come in. When I read the pure Harley forums they seem to be filled with morons with too much money who know nothing about motors at all. Maybe I should drink more and get a meth habit and it'll make sense. One more thing that hit me today. My shoe which looks brand new had a small steel bushing on the end between the motor housing and primary cover. Once again, not in the repair guide that I see. Wrong shoe possibly? Anyone know if there is another shoe with a shorter pivot dowel? | ||
| Limelight |
OK. Went and ordered a new shoe and pin just in case. That pin hole is slightly wobbled out but I think I can make it work. Worse case get a used primary cover off ebay... Once again, Stubbs Cycles ROCKS! So freaking friendly! | ||
| Limelight |
Just got my Barnett Vinyl clutch cable #101-31-10002HE from Riders Needs ($36.79) with shipping. Wow! Twice as thick as OEM cable, metal spring guard, rubber boot (oem was plastic), really nice hardware. Haven't put it on the bike yet but I can already see how they say this cable is 30-40% easier to pull. WOW! | ||
| Themagster |
WOW - I loved my Barnett clutch cable. I don't recall why I did not go back to it with the '09 - maybe just lazy with ordering and doing a replacement. Maybe I should get one ordered. Have fun  | ||
| Orlandoslug |
HELP!! (newbie here) ...so here's my story... bought my wife a low seat '03 Blast, 1,400 pampered lady miles - no problem (favorable opinion of Buell) Needed an economical bike for my son to commute on; a starter that he would not kill himself on...so we picked up an '04 w/1,050 teenage son, somewhat abused, miles on it, that started up and ran fine on 1st test drive. Went to pick it up and the Owner said he started it up and left it idling unattended before we came and it fell over breaking turn signal, and no other apparent damage; he knocked off a few hundred bucks for the turn signal, and scuffed plastic by headlight, so I figure okay, my sons just going to tear it up anyways, so I take it...however, before I leave the neighborhood, I feel it clunk abnormally taking off in 1st as I let the clutch out from a stop; so, I turn around go back and ask the previous Owner about it, and he says take it to the Harley dealer and he'll take care of it...so I did A week and a half later, they email an estimate of $2,165 for fixing the parts in the transmission; apparently technician test rode it briefly and this is his assessment of what is wrong with it. Quote based on replacing a couple of gears, shift fork, shift drum ass'y, engine gaskets, etc. So, I talk to the technician, he says it's the dogs; when I ask about possibility of detent plate being cocked, pins walking out, etc. he says pins are on transmission side of the case and can't walk out, and that there are no adjustments, detent clips or anything that I might try on my own that he thinks might work; also, that they do not stock the detent retainer clip as that is a specialized Buell part, as I was thinking of adding a 2nd clip to see if that might hold the detent plate a little straighter after I even up the shift drum pins per previous recommendations I gleaned from this website... ...so what is the probability that I'm screwed | ||
| Jetlee |
If it were the dogs, the transmission would jump out of gear for no reason. Shift forks are hard to bend, I do believe the shift pawl and/or detent plate make it near impossible to shift too hard and hurt them. A lot have noticed that if you kick it into gear while stopped, sometimes it doesn't fully go into gear. That clunk is just the transmission fully engaging as the clutch engages and aligns the gears. If you're still concerned, a shift-pawl adjustment makes shifting click smoother, followed by adjusting the clutch ramp then the clutch pull. | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum Orlandoslug! That clunk you feel is just as Jetlee says. Typically when you drop the Blast on the left side you can move the shift pawl out of adjustment when you land the bike on the shift lever. I would recommend just pulling the primary, doing the shift pawl adjustment, making the primary chain adjustment, adjust the clutch, refill with a full synthetic 20W-50 motor oil and run the crap out of it! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome to Badweb! Nice of him to take care of a $2100 repair! Concur with above and then dont worry to much about it. Even if doing everything as suggested by Swampy and Jetlee doesnt completely cure the problem, its likely it'll only do it when cold and the first or second shifts into 1st gear. Bike Bandit can get the OEM stock parts for you (got a parts catalog?) if you dont want to use that dealer or any of our sponsors. Lastly: Is it possible the mechanic is wrong? Maybe. But unfortunately with the Blast, internal transmission repairs require complete engine disassembly, so if he's wrong or it doesnt need all those parts, they've still disassembled the entire engine and thats a lot of labor | ||
| Orlandoslug |
thanks for all the advice It's not the normal clunk when you drop it into gear; it's after that when you go to take off and start letting the clutch out. I think I'll take the primary cover off this weekend after I fix the dryer (too many kids! I guess I shouldn't complain about fixing it since I don't have to do the 14 loads a week) Which nut is it that's threaded backwards? I plan to do the shift pawl adjustment; however, I'm having trouble visualizing the #32 drill bit (what do I poke it into?); are there any good posts that explain? Also, while I'm in there, I wanted to try to upgrade the detent plate clip; I've heard various suggestions: double up factory clip, use e-clip or spiral retaining ring with washer, etc. do any of you have any experience or suggestions regarding this? (I also plan to even up the pins on the shift drum, which I'm hoping are on the primary side of the case) Downloaded the shop manual & parts catalog; I appreciate all the on-line support for these bikes! I'm hopeful it will be something simple on the primary side that I can fix myself | ||
| Jetlee |
I understand the sound you're talking about. It's after you click it into gear, as the clutch starts to grab it goes *CLUNK* again. Like I said, the transmission just didn't completely click into gear. It's like the dogs were lined up just perfect and instead of meshing together, they hit each other; then when the friction from the clutch turns the driving shaft, they mesh together properly with a nice *clunk*. It's nothing to worry about. As stated, a shift pawl adjustment would probably be good. This was covered elsewhere where I explained that I ALWAYS slip the clutch after putting it in gear, just so I know it's not going to clunk. Then people said I can't slip it without moving, I said yes I can, they said I'd kill it, I said it's clutch control and I could get the bike moving without throttle, they said no you can't and asked proof of video, I made proof, some retard yelled fake, I made another one, haven't heard from retard since, OP on the subject started practicing clutch control. So yeah! | ||
| Jetlee |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVKpG-XXzMk iliketobike: Ok, now try it without your hand on the throttle. You say it isn't, but the only attempt that we can see in the video shows your hand on the right handlebar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt5T-48iS84 So...kick it into gear, let the clutch out a little so you feel the bike trying to move. If it's going to clunk, it would've by then. Pull the clutch back in and you're ready to go. Another way to avoid this: when coming to a stop, downshift through each gear. When you get to first, lightly let out the clutch to generate the friction. Once you're stopped, don't kick it into neutral. If you do go to neutral, do the above with letting it slip a tiny bit. I learned this when younger as I never had a neutral light, so it was to make sure I was in gear and didn't look like a fool revving the crap out of the engine trying to take off. -lol- It just so happened to fit this situation perfectly. (Message edited by Jetlee on January 05, 2012) | ||
| Orlandoslug |
That doesn't sound normal; how long have you been living with that? Unless I just haven't got the technique down, mine makes sounds & feels like it can't be good for the internals Even if I ultimately have to live with it, as it's not worth going in to the tranny, I'd sure like to fix it | ||
| Jetlee |
Again, it's pretty normal. It's just the transmission not fully going into gear. These are Harley transmissions, not sportbike and certainly not superbike, these clunk most of the time and are certainly not quiet. It's done it for me for over 3 years...and I don't baby mine. If it was going to blow or go out, it would've by now. A shift pawl adjustment makes shifting easier and can help prevent it. (Message edited by Jetlee on January 05, 2012) | ||
| Styxnpicks |
CLUNK!!! 1st.... ready to ride! | ||
| Rainman |
O Blastards I come seeking advice. 25 degrees. Bike hasn't been started in two weeks over holiday. Rained, 60 degrees high for three or four days. Then drop to 12 degrees for low for a few a days. Back up to 50 today so I figured I'd ride. Bike hard to start. Did and ran decent for about three miles, then sputtered when off throttle. Three more miles, died at light. Started, died. STarted died. Pulled into parking lot. Would not go. Came back in afternoon, filled up with gas (was low) and Heet in case of condensation. Cranked and then took. Ran OK. Put in gear. Died. So here we are: It will start, idle not go. Is it a boot most like? Bike will stall even with cap off, so it shouldn't be a vacuum issue. I'm going to truck it back to the pad. Any obvious issue I'm not seeing? I'm a mechanical idiot. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You dont say if it idle slow and then die, acting like it was running over rich (like the choke stuck on). If it dies when you put it in gear (as simple as that) then its probably a safety switch malfunction (if you still have them?). Bypass kickstand switch, flip diode, etc. You've been around awhile so I dont know how much of my post pertains to you! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Orlandoslug: Concur, we understood the secondary clunk problem! Jetlee, not sure why anybody would argue the clutch slip dilemma?!?! I do the same thing on the 'big bike' every morning (especially when lane splitting at lights!Thats a take off you dont want to blow!) | ||
| Rainman |
It doesn't die when in gear. It will start with sidestand down as well as up. It idles fine -- maybe not as fast as it should considering the cold, but that's me second guessing. It runs well, I put it in gear, it runs well, I ease out clutch and it sputters and croaks. Doesn't necessarily start right up, but starts pretty quick, idles and with throttle application (gentle or hard) sputters and dies. Battery is one year old glass-mat with plenty of power. 16 K miles on it. Plug hasn't been changed in probably 10K, but it's been running fine until the two-week setup. |
