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Nurider
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 03:03 pm: |
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Ok... Will do Will do Dont have the proper size torque wrench with me but the front end was just taken off of another bike without taking the axle out. Unknown amount of fork oil Good suggestion I thought of something like that. Warped rotor? Instructions on checking alignment? THANKS A BUNCH appriciate it.... any one else got anything? (Message edited by nurider on August 11, 2011) |
Britchri10
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 05:49 pm: |
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Shade tree check for alignment.: Place 8ft plank flat on the level floor (of a garage etc') alongside rear wheel. Put handlebars straight & align w/edge of the plank. Measure distance between edge of plank & front of wheel. Do the same for the back. If the bars, forks etc; are straight the measurement should be the same. If the tire is "cocked' the measurements will be different. Do not use a plank that has a warped edge. Make sense? Re: check front brake: A warped rotor would probably not cause the bike to "pull" to one side but you would certainly notice the front end juddering under braking with a warped rotor. I was thinking more of the pads being in contact with the rotor & causing "drag" on the disc. (A condition that would be less noticeable at speed). I hope this helps. Chris C |
Damnut
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 06:36 pm: |
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Hi guys haven't been in here since selling the wife's Blast but I just came across a box of used spares that I had. I don't need them and figure I'd throw it out here. There's a main wiring harness w/fuse box, relays, flasher, complete rear brake setup (pedal, res, lines, caliper), throttle cables, horn and a couple other things. 50 bucks shipped for the whole box? |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 07:16 pm: |
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For the sway, try loosening the front and rear axle nuts and triple tree pinch bolt. Then lift the front and loosen the fork pinch bolts, giggle the front tire around, pull the front brake, then tighten the fork pinch bolts and triple tree pinch bolt. Set the bike down, pull front brake and bounce the front forks. Tighten the axle nuts front and rear, tighten the front pinch bolt and ride it. Make sure your tires are filled correctly, make sure your swing arm pivot bolt is tight, do a visual inspection on your rear engine mount and front mount and isolator. Good luck |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 09:15 pm: |
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Concur, all great suggestions. A warped brake rotor wont cause any handling problems just going down the road or in turns. Your problem sounds more like somethings loose, rather than bent. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 09:31 pm: |
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PS its classic loose neck/steering head bearings which may be exasperated by a tire having run with the issue or the tire mimicking the issue, even though it may have been fixed. |
Nurider
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 10:49 pm: |
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ok I have a brand new tire that I can put on. And swampy... at the end of all that am i supposed to spin around pat my head and rub my stomach.... lol Thanks for the information everyone I'll try that this weekend. Its a little more work than i was expecting but not that bad I've just been working on it all summer... Theres a Suzuki/Kawasaki Dealership in the town that Im in do you think that they would be able to get it straightened out? I know the dealer is not my suite and i would normally disown myself for wanting to take it there but im not really a motorcycle mechanic and its kinda over my head. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2011 - 11:55 pm: |
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Easy stuff though - you could do it all with a little reading up in our KV - basic tool stuff - really! EZ |
Daali
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2011 - 10:10 am: |
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Shindy digital tachometer? http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=406698&utm_source=google&utm_medium= cse Anyone have one of these installed? |
Odd
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2011 - 10:25 am: |
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did anyone try filling the tran. from the speedo sensor hole? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2011 - 09:33 pm: |
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No (or I doubt it). Its easier to fill it from the trans vent hose. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 12:18 am: |
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It looks like a bike powered version of the Trail Tech Tach - may work - may not. Like the set up. EZ |
Daali
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 09:02 am: |
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I'm cheap, went with the TTO for now =) |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 12:54 pm: |
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Need a quick assist, I need the part numbers for the stock turn signals for a 2000 Blast. Couldn't find them in the KV. I was teaching a neighbor how to ride and he had a 2 MPH tip over on the left side, took out both left turn signals and the shifter toe peg. Better get them replaced before my daughter sees it..... Is the toe peg available separately? Guess I need the part # for that and the whole shift lever as well. Man, I need to get a parts manual for the Blast, I've got them for all the other bikes but not the Blast. Anyone have a spare? Thanks much guys.. mucho appreciated. Brad On the plus side, we now have another motorcycle convert! I got his older brother hooked, he now has a 07 Uly. This one likes the XB's but really digs the Uly as well. Both are well over 6' and really look funny on the little Blast. Pretty cool how many folks I've taught to ride on this Blast, at least a dozen, most who are now avid motorcyclists. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 01:15 pm: |
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LOL - join my group - EZ |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 02:04 pm: |
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????? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 02:23 pm: |
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EZBlastsBikes/ Join and check the files section for educational purposes - lol EZ |
Nurider
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 04:47 pm: |
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Thanks again for the help with the sway problem. I did all the stuff today plus redid all the work i did the other day I read more carefully and my fork height was wrong plus i probably overtightened the head nut, anyway no more sway, those problems are behind me. BUT! today when I test rode it the engine was cutting out at low RPMS. Im guessing theres a lil peice of dirt or something in the carb and it just needs cleaned AGAIN. I had it cleaned and a .45 jet installed before the wreck. Does this sound like the correct course of action. Or is there any other things that can cause that. |
Court
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 09:16 am: |
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Left Rear - Y0526.K Left Front - Y0503.K Shift Lever - N0601.TA 9 Includes splined collar, screw, lever and rubber) Note: The toe peg on the Blast is part of the lever and not available separately. Brad - I looked and of the 3 cases of spare manual I have not one extra 2000 P3. If you need one quickly, let me know and I'll overnight it to you. - Court |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 12:15 pm: |
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Thanks much Court, right after I posted the note above, I checked the for sale section. As luck would have it, there was one there! I've already got dibbs on it. Just checked pricing, man they sure are proud of the shift lever! $83.50 list! Wow... Brad |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 03:10 pm: |
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Yeah - it is quite a sack for what it is - quality wise, though it could be formed and polished up easily enough, looks like a XR750 reversed shifter then - lol EZ |
Nurider
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 05:52 pm: |
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Today when I test rode it the engine was cutting out at low RPMS. Im guessing theres a lil peice of dirt or something in the carb and it just needs cleaned AGAIN. OR Auto Enricher. I had the carb cleaned and a .45 jet installed before the wreck. Any Thoughts? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 06:06 pm: |
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For the love of God if the carb needs to be cleaned again, then you have a filtering problem!!! Install a cheap, clear plastic inline fuel filter, available very cheap for old air cooled VW's.But I'm doubtfull it needed cleaning in the first place. Did you do anything to the engine before this started happening? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 06:17 pm: |
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The toepeg was available separately as part # N0549.BA and is still listed (in my reference) as available: $22. You can also substitute a bolt and with an allen or countersunk head, it will be almost unnoticeable. But the original toepeg is designed to bend, so the next time you drop it you might bend the shift lever (or maybe worse). FWIW: Turn signals come up on e-bay regularly, often for more $$ than new, so beware. And....99.9% of all Blast parts are interchangeable and/or updated from the 2000 model year. So later parts manuals will probably list the part you'll get anyway! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 06:18 pm: |
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PS Shift levers come up on e-bay regularly too! |
Nurider
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 07:51 pm: |
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No I had the wreck and it ran fine when I test rode it the first time after I got the front end back together. Last ride i tried to take off with the kickstand down and of course it died. But it started up idled fine and once you get past the stop signs it runs great just like normal. It wasnt the carb being clogged... I took the slo jet and the main jet out and sprayed through them. They were all clean. I test rode it again and same issue it just cuts out when im taking off from a stop. So that leaves the auto enricher. Right? I bet these type of questions come up a lot and its probably annoying but im not really sure who else to ask them to. (Message edited by Nurider on August 14, 2011) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 08:28 pm: |
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Just cutting out sounds electrical. The AE will either be stuck on, off, or somewhere in between and that will affect where the problems persists. Unplug it and see what happens. Does it do it when its warmed up (not just idling in the driveway-but at least a half hour ride)? Does it stall? Cough? Backfire? Or just like somebody turned off the key? FWIW: Yes we get the same questions over and over and over.....But what is annoying is "My Blast wont run right, whats the problem?" No information. Or "My Blast wont start" and spend a dozen posts before we find out they took the carb apart and now it wont start. Since we cant see or hear the bike we need as much information as possible. Its hard enough when you actually have the bike in front of you, but when you have to rely on just a written description-frankly I'm surprised we (helpful souls on Badweb) get it right as often as we do!!! and I wish I had a dollar for every person who took their carb apart "to give it a good cleaning" and then their bike wouldnt run right, if at all. No offense. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 09:28 pm: |
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Make sure boot on right,tip over ball not sticking - lol EZ |
Nurider
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 10:09 pm: |
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Sorry I can get what your saying about not having enough information. A lot of times i just leave things out that are obvious to me cause I was the one riding. I looked back at my post and see that I did not give the proper information at all, I appologize. And I've seen it on badweb about the "giving the carb an good cleaning". The bike feels like its stalling out. I take off from the stop sign letting the clutch out rolling along and then I give a little more throttle like normal take off and the bike stalls and if i didnt back out of the throttle it would die completely and it does very quickly on hills. If I give it full throttle it will take off like a striped ape, but thats not always a good idea. The problem does not continue past take off. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 11:19 pm: |
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Concur with the boot (always start at the boot)! Let us know. I wasnt pointing at you in particular, those are just general observations from 8 years on Badweb. |
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