| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Swampy don't forget to retorque the cover bolts (to be done after several heat cycles;0)). (Don't forget to enjoy the heat cycles also!  ) Yeah I kind of figure its the boot - its the red bike - running the pro series (the black bike and stack with spring support has proven a solid combination), but I was wondering if I missed any other bets. Cool on the custom carb set up - what carb you going to run? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  edited by ezblast on June 15, 2004 | ||
| Halfaharley |
Did you pick up on the way to make sure there is an intake leak? I don't think I've ever heard this method mentioned on here. I learned it in motorcycle technology class. It works because the carb cleaner will set the air/fuel ratio off from what it continually is with the air leak. I'm probably going to run the stock carb at first with a press-on adapter for the flange mount, but I'll eventually buy a quicksilver for it when I can afford it. --Nik | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you pick up on the way to make sure there is an intake leak? I don't think I've ever heard this method mentioned on here. I learned it in motorcycle technology class. It works because the carb cleaner will set the air/fuel ratio off from what it continually is with the air leak. Huh? Explain please - am always willing to learn... Yeah the QuickSilver double pumper (such as the Aprilla and KTM run) sits in the back of my mind also - is the solid mount sold by Eldebrock or an adaption from HSR42/S&S solid mounts I see for Sportsters? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Halfaharley |
Ok here is a quick way to diagnose an intake leak: While the bike is idling, spray some carb or brake cleaner on and around the intake boot. If the idle speed or exhaust sound changes at all, you've found your leak. Like I said, it works because the carb cleaner will set the air/fuel ratio off from what it was. If there is a leak, you should hear an immediate difference, and if the leak is large enough, the carb cleaner can even richen it up so much that it can shut it off! Don't worry, though, it won't harm anything with your motor, but some brake cleaners can break down rubber. --Nik | ||
| Halfaharley |
The adapter I have to put on my stock carb is just a little cnc machined aluminum plate that is about 5/8" thick and it has been bored so that it can be pressed on any 40mm spigot carb. It's designed so that older harleys can use newer carbs. Edelbrock sells their carbs in either spigot or flange-mount, so when I get that, I'll just get a flange. --Nik | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur - the WD40 trick! I'll do it tomorrow - thanks Nik - you had me going for a minute there though;0) - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blastman |
Hey, have you guys checked out Crossroad Performance's new rendition of the blast.....pretty wild....though it kinda looks like you might want to watch that exhaust rubbing your leg http://www.nvo.com/crossroads/ pretty awesome Blastman | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Once again I'm tempted by the dark forces. | ||
| Ezblast |
    I really like the Redneck Buell frame - looks like a fit made in heaven - lol So the Dark side wispers! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Spooky |
I've been talking with a friend of mine that builds bikes, about using my spare engine and building a bar hopper using a redneck eng. frame. I've got forks from a X1, XB9sl and tuber wheels to use. The price of the Redneck frame is the same as the C&J frame. Might just get the C&J frame and build a track bike that might see the street once in a blue moon. http://www.redneckenginuity.com edited by spooky on June 18, 2004 | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, didn't you just have a belt break? The Big Kid and I go out for a ride tonight and the county just "Chip Sealed" the road out to the highway. Anyways, we get to the corner and his belt was broken. 5800 miles. No warning. Now I gotta get busy for the weekend. How much did your replacement belt cost? Do rocks getting in the belt cause them to break? Anybody have any answers? Also I put the Mobile 1 in the primary and the Big Kid doesn't complain anymore about the shifting. Great looking bikes. | ||
| Ezblast |
Price - Ebay - 35 & DP 70 - so somewhere in between for the rest of the world. Putting on a belt is easy - do not have to remove rear wheel, just clear space to slip belt over front pully, after slipping it inside the back pully - then slip it onto the front, then put a few belt teeth to the bottom rear of pully and roll bike till belt is seated on pullies - with the crossroads rearsets it took me 5 minutes - easiest thing I've done on the bike besides check the oil! - rocks happen - lol - yeah - I'm really interested in a more inexpensive frame myself - to keep in spirit with the type of bike it should be. Though the quality of the Rednecks group would not be in question - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ edited by ezblast on June 18, 2004 | ||
| Mikej |
Spooky, What do the frames run in price without all the extra stuff? | ||
| Spooky |
Mike, The C&J frame runs about $2500. You will still need to buy a rear shock and sheet metal.......$$$$$$$. The redneck frame with all the sheet metal and seat, plus a few odd & ends runs about $3000. Redneck frame by it self is $2000. edited by spooky on June 18, 2004 | ||
| Naustin |
I like the orange crossroads bike 1,237,562 and 1/2 times better.  edited by naustin on June 18, 2004 | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - well I like my bikes better than both of those, but I still have my own barhopper in mind as well, and am still searching for the right parts - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
BuellBlastRider - I moved your question into the Thumper KnowledgeVault in the Gauges section - its a good question - if any others have imput - I'm sure it would be appreciated! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, you were right, the belt was about 75 bucks no receipt(I don't know for sure, the wifie picked it up for me, fathers day you know, and I think she bought me a little sump'in sump'in for the Sporty) And the Little Kid put the thing on for me while I was sharpening the lawn mower blades! I love these bikes! | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks Spooky. | ||
| Rex |
wow, the blast chopper is kind of cool....any around the bay area? if so, bring out to the july asbn meeting.......what do you say? EZ blast, are you coming to the july meeting? | ||
| Ezblast |
Not really interested in two strokes - maybe pocket bikes - but really - probably not - August - probably - always interested in the new stuff from Buell! Have Fun! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Prag_b |
Can anyone provide me with some leads on some handlebars for the Blast that are like 1/2 to 3/4 shorter than the stock bars.. I seen pics of a bike I think it was "xgecko" and he had some I liked, but then further pics looked like he did the clip on conversion and that's too low for me. I clicked on some of the links to bars, but I have no idea which is which when I look at the pics cause there's no real description. Also I read that you have to be careful so it still clears the tank when you turn. Anyone that may of used a bar or has one now that is what I'm describing, please let me know.. I want to get somethin' by this weekend.. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Lightning bars or superbike bars will fit fine and a good switch. Stay tuned and someone who actually runs them will chime in. | ||
| Lpd22 |
My son went down on his Blast a week ago at about 30+mph in a left hand sweeper. Other than the obvious damage of mirrors, left frt. signal, speedo "control panel", and fly screen...his front wheel points left when bars are straight. The bars are not bent, the fork tubes slide out of the triples smooth as butter, and the frt. axle slid out smoothly. I loosened the triple tree pinch bolts and tried to straighten it out like an old Huffy to no avail. Any wisdom? My son also just ordered the LP cafe fairing as a replacement for his fly screen. Is it a relatively easy fitment, and he wants to go to drag bars...it that a reasonable combo without need for hacking and cutting? Lastly, he now has a trickle of fluid from the clutch bolt assembly entering the crank cover on the left near the shift lever. Common? or easy remedy? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Any one for rock, scissors, paper? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - I got Scissors! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Lpd22 Are the bars bent? Try doing the loosining the pinch bolt trick again that should fix anything, unles the axle is bent(Probably not) EZ, Blunt nose sissors? | ||
| Ezblast |
Sorry - I couldn't resist! - lol - I hope your son is ok - I really mean it - those hurt, been there. Wow - thats quiet a list! First you might want to check the frame for straightness. After that I would dis-asemble the whole front end and and check each part - my sugestion is work your way up - a tweeked axle and fork in combo type of thing - check the trees as well, while there you may want to check your bearings as well. On reassembly (if your son is 200lbs or heavier - you could switch over to 7.5 weight fork oil - slows up the rebound a bit with a stiffer ride that actually feels ok to me - I rarely notice the difference except on real bumby roads - my red bike still runs the stock oil) now would be a good time to assemble the fairing on the bike. You'll have to trim it a bit, paper/detail tape the area to be cut - ala Dremel/Sears type cutting tool - your going to have to trim a little over an inch from the fairings rear part - you'll see when you mount it - Tony - using this Fairing explains it pretty well here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/11950.html?1017871437 For the last part you'll probably have to replace the o ring that seals the clutch cable - you could try RTV for a quick fix, but a proper fix entails taking the primary cover off - on re assembly you'll need a new gasket and a primary seal as well - links here with hints for getting that done proper http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/20737.html?1087095980 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/61781.html?1086801124 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/4010.html?1087955997 Not that hard a thing to do right - just a bit time consuming, still if I can do it - lol - you get the idea. Go with superbike bars - low ones if you want - like on the XBS bikes or lightnings - those will barely lock, but they will! You won't get lock to lock turning with drag bars - so if that doesn't bother you then ok - as for the fairing it will need triming - just make it uniform in the trimming and you'll be able to fit more than one type of bar on - lol - Chaparral usually has good prices on handlebars, and a color selection - easiest way to order from them is to call. Wow - hope that helps! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  edited by ezblast on June 23, 2004 | ||
| Prag_b |
So am I correct in assuming that the Spec II Superbike bars with a 29" WIDTH, 2.5 RISE, 4.75 PULL BACK & 4.75 CENTER WIDTH would be 1/2 to 3/4 lower than stock and provide adequate clearance on the tank? | ||
| Ezblast |
That center width is a barely thing - a known good fit with simular dimensions except center, is the Chaperall superbike bars - black or chrome - 11.99 - just checked. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
