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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » BLAST SPECIFICS - procedures, and ideas on assisting procedures » Fluid Changes » Archive through July 18, 2010 « Previous Next »

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Indybuell
Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep. One should let the oil out, the other should be some gravy looking stuff from the PCV system.
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Krjoseph
Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By both hoses I'm guessing you mean the oil drain hose and the breather drain hose. Yes. Actually, you can drain the breather overflow anytime, only takes a second.
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1burntorangebuell
Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yea i mean both of the hoses that are tucked inside the left swing arm
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Evilbetty
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok after months of putting it off, I used the warm weather last night to crack open the blast.

First I performed the oil change. I slightly overfilled it but I'll chalk that up as a learning experience.

Next I moved onto the transmission. All was going smooth until I tried to get the drain plug out after un-threading it. I fought that SOB for almost an hour. I had made a nice tin foil trough to catch all the fluid but all the fussing with the bolt caused it to slip and I coated the muffler and floor in oil before I resorted to dropping the rear muffler hanger and prying down the muffler to get it free.

I thought the worst was over... but no... that f'n bolt slipped right back above the muffler but wanted to thread about as much as I'd like a prostate exam with rusty barbed wire.

Finally my girlfriend came out with her smaller hands and got it in a few minutes...

So then I moved on to the primary adjustment. I ran the bike around for about a half hour. I wanted to use the "ear method". This bike still had the spacer on it, so I began loosening the bolt, the spacer came loose... I kept turning, turning waiting to hear some change in sound. Nothing. So then I try tightening the bolt till the idle drops... nothing... (though I didn't tighten it all the way up). I went back to the the spacer then backed it off a couple revolutions. The bike seems to shift much better now, but I'm worried I may have it still too tight, or too loose.

Any suggestions?
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Crackhead
Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

having small hands helps working on the blast.

i am able to push the trans plug back up into the hole and angle it out, to clear the exhaust, i did coat the muffler. but i consider that rust proofing.

I was able to feel when the bolt hit the shoe and back up a couple of turns. I was told the shoe was spring loaded on the blast and the bolt is a stop for the shoe.

the after market exhausts give you better clearance to the trans plug.

i still need to try changing my boot and replacing the spark plug to fix my random misfire.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 02:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you still have the spacer in-its too loose. If its adjusted backed out a couple turns from the spacer, its definitely too loose.
Re read the "by ear" method. You'll need to turn the screw in clockwise until the idle drops. You should feel some resistance when turning the bolt in that far.
The adjuster bolt does turn in quite a distance past from where that spacer was. {usually adjusted half the width of the spacer is normal-my experience}
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 02:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/69705.html?1091406412
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/165289.html?1229739756
"Pauls close enough method" may be easier for you.
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Evilbetty
Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Erik, I'll give it another try!
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Evilbetty
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok since my Tiger is still bleeding, I took the Blast out for a ride to warm it up well enough to attempt adjusting the primary again.

I found I wanted to ride a lot longer but the loose chain sound was making me paranoid. I pulled her back in the garage and tightened till a whirling noise started, then till it began to bog the engine. I then backed it out eight flats.

The Blast sounds much, much better. I still can hear a trace of the whirling noise though, is that ok?

Worse I can now hear every other odd noise it's making : )

Riding it I've been hearing a metal on metal rattling noise. When I was doing the primary adjustment and fluid changes I tracked down as far as coming from either the upper shock mount area or somewhere around the battery, but for the life of me I can't seem to dampen the sound with hand pressure on anything.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks! EB
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe the seat flexing in the middle? Check to make sure the battery is held down firmly by the seat. Look for loose wire connections rattling around. Make sure exhaust nuts are tightened, and then look for any bit of plastic that might flex or get caught up in the harmonics of the bike while running causing it to vibrate.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Footpegs, normal valvetrain noise, loose/broken muffler internals or mounts, loose nut behind the handlebars...
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Reuel
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After 36000 miles, I finally got used to the box of rocks noise.
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Indybuell
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, what size is the bolt that is holding the two oil drain hoses to the bike?
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Johnnymac
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thread size or head size? IIRC it takes a 10mm wrench to loosen/tighten it.
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Evilbetty
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

: )

I'll check all that out, thanks!
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I lost mine. Anybody know the thread size? I'll need the strap, too...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW: Today I changed the trans fluid the 'old style' way (as opposed to the easy way) and it took 1 quart, no more, no less. Done exactly as the manual stated with the bike straight up (not on the kickstand). Drained it cold. FWIW!
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ewwww - he's a tricky one - 'e is! Next 'e'll be telling us about synthetic Blinker Fluid - lol - I always do it that way and stop when I reach the teeth. Sometimes it is, sometimes its not.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, when you have rearsets, the factory way is easier. But when you still have those 'blast ed' Y-frames.....

I would think with all your mods you'd be using the synthetic blinker fluid? ALL my bikes run it ; )
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not the Dreaded Blinker Fluid debate!
EZ
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Thumper62
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So the best fluid to re-fill the tranny with would be?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Synthetic! That would be the general answer.
I use Redline 75w90 gear oil. Some other gear oils are not compatible and I'll let everyone else post their views.
But always synthetic.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Caution - most gear oils contain a noticeable concentrations of sulfides in the buffering compounds which makes them not safe for electrical components such as found in Buell primaries.
EZ
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Thumper62
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok guys, so i FINALLY got a chance to get the damn peg off of the bike! What a pain it was, i decided to be cheap and not spring the 8 bucks for the swivel end for the rachet; what a mistake that was....lol. Anyway, i drained all the fluid, but forgot to get the 7/16 O-ring, so she is sitting empty. Is there anything, besides the primary chain adjustment, that i should do or will really help if i did, while i have the peg off? Thanks in advance!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch adjustment.

7/16 O-ring? Did you break it?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 01:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll let everyone else post their views Anyone? I know for sure we're all not using Redline LOL!
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm using 20W-50 full synthetic Castrol in the primary(same as what I use in the engine), or Amsoil if I can't get the Castrol. I also use Mobile 1, 15W-50 in the primary when I get a good deal on it. I think that you have to be wary of using the 75W-90 gear oil in the primary as it has been reported that the 75W-90 gear oil will break down the insulation in the stator wiring.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As a general rule, unless it HD recommended fluid anything that non synthetic should be avoided in the primary. So if your thinking about using something ask that question first.

FWIW: In case there is any confusion, Redline 75w90 gear oil is synthetic and I've been using it for over 20 years now.

(Message edited by blake on February 17, 2010)
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First choice, Amsoil V-twin oil. Second choice, Mobil 1 V-twin or 15W50.
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Truthnexile
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went ahead and pulled the left bracket and removed the cover so I could do my clutch adjustment and check my fluid level. It was only 2500 miles ago that I changed the tranny fluid the last time. It looked to me like water had gotten into the primary and gunked it all up. I drained it all off and cleaned what I could before refilling the tranny with a fresh quart. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm trying to figure out what happened there. It is possible that I may have slightly overfilled it the last time.
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