Author |
Message |
Indybuell
| Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 04:15 pm: |
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Yep. One should let the oil out, the other should be some gravy looking stuff from the PCV system. |
Krjoseph
| Posted on Monday, February 23, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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By both hoses I'm guessing you mean the oil drain hose and the breather drain hose. Yes. Actually, you can drain the breather overflow anytime, only takes a second. |
1burntorangebuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 10:06 am: |
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yea i mean both of the hoses that are tucked inside the left swing arm |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 02:44 pm: |
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Ok after months of putting it off, I used the warm weather last night to crack open the blast. First I performed the oil change. I slightly overfilled it but I'll chalk that up as a learning experience. Next I moved onto the transmission. All was going smooth until I tried to get the drain plug out after un-threading it. I fought that SOB for almost an hour. I had made a nice tin foil trough to catch all the fluid but all the fussing with the bolt caused it to slip and I coated the muffler and floor in oil before I resorted to dropping the rear muffler hanger and prying down the muffler to get it free. I thought the worst was over... but no... that f'n bolt slipped right back above the muffler but wanted to thread about as much as I'd like a prostate exam with rusty barbed wire. Finally my girlfriend came out with her smaller hands and got it in a few minutes... So then I moved on to the primary adjustment. I ran the bike around for about a half hour. I wanted to use the "ear method". This bike still had the spacer on it, so I began loosening the bolt, the spacer came loose... I kept turning, turning waiting to hear some change in sound. Nothing. So then I try tightening the bolt till the idle drops... nothing... (though I didn't tighten it all the way up). I went back to the the spacer then backed it off a couple revolutions. The bike seems to shift much better now, but I'm worried I may have it still too tight, or too loose. Any suggestions? |
Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 03:37 pm: |
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having small hands helps working on the blast. i am able to push the trans plug back up into the hole and angle it out, to clear the exhaust, i did coat the muffler. but i consider that rust proofing. I was able to feel when the bolt hit the shoe and back up a couple of turns. I was told the shoe was spring loaded on the blast and the bolt is a stop for the shoe. the after market exhausts give you better clearance to the trans plug. i still need to try changing my boot and replacing the spark plug to fix my random misfire. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 02:11 am: |
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If you still have the spacer in-its too loose. If its adjusted backed out a couple turns from the spacer, its definitely too loose. Re read the "by ear" method. You'll need to turn the screw in clockwise until the idle drops. You should feel some resistance when turning the bolt in that far. The adjuster bolt does turn in quite a distance past from where that spacer was. {usually adjusted half the width of the spacer is normal-my experience} |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 02:15 am: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/69705.html?1091406412 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/165289.html?1229739756 "Pauls close enough method" may be easier for you. |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:51 pm: |
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Thanks Erik, I'll give it another try! |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 11:05 am: |
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Ok since my Tiger is still bleeding, I took the Blast out for a ride to warm it up well enough to attempt adjusting the primary again. I found I wanted to ride a lot longer but the loose chain sound was making me paranoid. I pulled her back in the garage and tightened till a whirling noise started, then till it began to bog the engine. I then backed it out eight flats. The Blast sounds much, much better. I still can hear a trace of the whirling noise though, is that ok? Worse I can now hear every other odd noise it's making Riding it I've been hearing a metal on metal rattling noise. When I was doing the primary adjustment and fluid changes I tracked down as far as coming from either the upper shock mount area or somewhere around the battery, but for the life of me I can't seem to dampen the sound with hand pressure on anything. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! EB |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 01:32 pm: |
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Maybe the seat flexing in the middle? Check to make sure the battery is held down firmly by the seat. Look for loose wire connections rattling around. Make sure exhaust nuts are tightened, and then look for any bit of plastic that might flex or get caught up in the harmonics of the bike while running causing it to vibrate. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 07:39 pm: |
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Footpegs, normal valvetrain noise, loose/broken muffler internals or mounts, loose nut behind the handlebars... |
Reuel
| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 07:31 pm: |
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After 36000 miles, I finally got used to the box of rocks noise. |
Indybuell
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 12:41 pm: |
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Ok, what size is the bolt that is holding the two oil drain hoses to the bike? |
Johnnymac
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 02:57 pm: |
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Thread size or head size? IIRC it takes a 10mm wrench to loosen/tighten it. |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 05:27 pm: |
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I'll check all that out, thanks! |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 06:32 pm: |
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I lost mine. Anybody know the thread size? I'll need the strap, too... |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 01:39 am: |
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FWIW: Today I changed the trans fluid the 'old style' way (as opposed to the easy way) and it took 1 quart, no more, no less. Done exactly as the manual stated with the bike straight up (not on the kickstand). Drained it cold. FWIW! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 02:04 am: |
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Ewwww - he's a tricky one - 'e is! Next 'e'll be telling us about synthetic Blinker Fluid - lol - I always do it that way and stop when I reach the teeth. Sometimes it is, sometimes its not. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 09:26 am: |
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Well, when you have rearsets, the factory way is easier. But when you still have those 'blast ed' Y-frames..... I would think with all your mods you'd be using the synthetic blinker fluid? ALL my bikes run it |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 09:55 pm: |
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Not the Dreaded Blinker Fluid debate! EZ |
Thumper62
| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 09:47 pm: |
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So the best fluid to re-fill the tranny with would be? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 10:13 pm: |
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Synthetic! That would be the general answer. I use Redline 75w90 gear oil. Some other gear oils are not compatible and I'll let everyone else post their views. But always synthetic. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 01:39 am: |
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Caution - most gear oils contain a noticeable concentrations of sulfides in the buffering compounds which makes them not safe for electrical components such as found in Buell primaries. EZ |
Thumper62
| Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 10:37 pm: |
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Ok guys, so i FINALLY got a chance to get the damn peg off of the bike! What a pain it was, i decided to be cheap and not spring the 8 bucks for the swivel end for the rachet; what a mistake that was....lol. Anyway, i drained all the fluid, but forgot to get the 7/16 O-ring, so she is sitting empty. Is there anything, besides the primary chain adjustment, that i should do or will really help if i did, while i have the peg off? Thanks in advance! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 12:32 am: |
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Clutch adjustment. 7/16 O-ring? Did you break it? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 01:31 am: |
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I'll let everyone else post their views Anyone? I know for sure we're all not using Redline LOL! |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 08:12 am: |
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I'm using 20W-50 full synthetic Castrol in the primary(same as what I use in the engine), or Amsoil if I can't get the Castrol. I also use Mobile 1, 15W-50 in the primary when I get a good deal on it. I think that you have to be wary of using the 75W-90 gear oil in the primary as it has been reported that the 75W-90 gear oil will break down the insulation in the stator wiring. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 09:19 am: |
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As a general rule, unless it HD recommended fluid anything that non synthetic should be avoided in the primary. So if your thinking about using something ask that question first. FWIW: In case there is any confusion, Redline 75w90 gear oil is synthetic and I've been using it for over 20 years now. (Message edited by blake on February 17, 2010) |
Reuel
| Posted on Friday, June 26, 2009 - 10:34 pm: |
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First choice, Amsoil V-twin oil. Second choice, Mobil 1 V-twin or 15W50. |
Truthnexile
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:11 pm: |
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I went ahead and pulled the left bracket and removed the cover so I could do my clutch adjustment and check my fluid level. It was only 2500 miles ago that I changed the tranny fluid the last time. It looked to me like water had gotten into the primary and gunked it all up. I drained it all off and cleaned what I could before refilling the tranny with a fresh quart. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm trying to figure out what happened there. It is possible that I may have slightly overfilled it the last time. |