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Archive through September 02, 2004Swampy30 09-02-04  04:59 pm
         

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Blaster_s
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're probably right Swampy. I bought it used from a local dealer, it was a military member repo. So no tellin' how long it sat.
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Blaster_s
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2004 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help guys...I went out and tried to start my bike last night. It won't even idle and sounds VERY clunky. I think, the heavier oil in our warm weather has affected it because of the compression ratio and it's not flowing well. Anyway, I am taking to HD tomorrow for the 1,000 mile service and installation of the performance exhaust and air cleaner and Lightning handlebars. Anymore ideas?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, September 05, 2004 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thicker oil is for warmer weather and will only cause the knocking at lower temps on startup and warm up. So its not your oil.(please check your manual for grades.using too thin oil will destroy an HD motor).
How long did the bike sit?
Did it run okay the last time you ran it?
Did you leave the gas on?(it can fill the engine with gas, but is a rare occurrence these days).
Lastly,if you're taking it in for the service (got warranty?) let them worry about it.
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Blaster_s
Posted on Sunday, September 05, 2004 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No warranty but I'm having the 1,000 mile service performed and it's gonna get re-jetted w/ the Buell Performance Exhaust and Air Filter kit. It will have the primary adjusted as well as the plug and the oil and tranny will be drained and re-filled. Hopefully, ALL of that will do the trick
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, September 05, 2004 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then you consider your servicing dealership to be a good one - they have a good attitude about Buells? Ask them on the primary adjustment to go 6 out instead 3 1/2 flats out - if they don't do it by sound. Ask them to spray carb cleaner in there also and run high octane - at least for a while to clean things up in there - if they are a good dealership they will understand your concerns and if not you have at least also directed them accordingly - so they can't say you didn't - nespa - tell them everything you've noticed odd about the bike so they can adjust accordingly that as well - your paying for it you might as well make sure certain things are done properly - make sure they test ride it as well afterwards before they hand it back to you and sign off on it.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Blaster_s
Posted on Tuesday, September 07, 2004 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks EZ...

I took it to a Harley dealership that is very Buell sales and service centric. In fact the Buell sales guy there is head of the BRAG chapter of Georgia. I spoke w/ the service guy this morning and he let me know he was working on it. They do test ride and make sure everything is OK before signing off.
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Blaster_s
Posted on Thursday, September 09, 2004 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got it back today. It sounds awesome, can't wait to ride...
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2004 - 07:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What did they say was wrong with it?
Come on, we've got money on this.....
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Blaster_s
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2004 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The idle was way off - needed to be adjusted. The primary was two turn out too many and the tranny fluid was the original, so it was changed. What a difference now with the new jets, the exhaust, and the air filter. I rode it to work this morning and it was a great trip. With the Lightning handlebars it looks like a mini City X.
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 04:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, so the last 100 miles or so, my buell has developed a top end knock. Right after I did the 15,000 mile service. I first thought it was the primary just being loose as it rattled from that side of the bike and was directly related to RPM. After fiddling with the primary twice, I realized I had misdiagnosed the knock and that it was really coming from the top end of the bike. Now things are headed downhill.

Where you usually it redline at 80 MPH in 4th gear, now at 70 MPH the knock increases in frequency and volume until it sounds like the top end is going to fly apart. Then it sort of surges and dies out, losing power up to redline. This is really strange.

I don't know what could be causing it. It's not the carbs, those are clean. It's definitely something in the valve train, but I can't really tell from listening to it. The bike seems to smoke a bit now sporadically, but it's intermittent and I can't tell where it's coming from, as by the time I have noticed there is smoke it has stopped.

The only thing I can think is I took the rockerboxes off to do the 2001 model year rockerbox gasket upgrade. It was already done, so I threw everything back together, not giving the lifters a chance to bleed off. The bike ran fine though, so I didn't think anything of it. Could this have come back and bit me in the ? The bike has had 2,000 miles put on it since then though.

It feels like it's hitting the rev limiter a few hundred RPM earlier than where it is, based on speed ( no tach ). What could be causing this? I'm thinking this is something to do with a funky valve spring or something.

So I am thinking it's either a bent valve or spring or something, or the lifters are shot. Any ideas?
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a guide going south - stop riding - have dealer pu and inspect or start head teardown yourself. Just the simptoms my bike had when its guide went south.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Jprovo
Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have no idea what is wrong with your bike, but I can tell you some things to look at.

Pull your gas tank and sparkplug and see if it is oily or has metal bits stuck to it. Take a flashlight and look around in the combustion chamber, take a look at the top of the piston. A lot of oil is telling me a possible bad intake guide, a lot of metal is a real bad thing. If you see a lot of oil on the plug, you probably need new guides or a new guide seals. Pull the intake and manifold and look at the head of the intake valve and the valve guide. If the intake guide is shot, you should see some oil, but the gas in the intake usually washes it off making it hard to see.

If you don't have oily deposits on the plug, but you're burning oil, it's probably a bad exhaust guide. Pull the exhaust and take a look at the exhaust valve head and guide. On my bike you could see the cracked guide, and a lot of oily deposits on the valve head. My bike burned oil at irregular intervals with the cracked guide, but did not make a lot of noise.

The collapsed lifter could cause the noise symptom, but a cracked or damaged guide will also. Usually the lifters bleed down after sitting, and make noise while warming up if they are going bad.

If you can’t find anything by pulling the intake, plug and exhaust it’s time to pull the head and cam cover.

James
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

nice, thanks for the suggestions james, I'm tearing it down friday, so we'll see what treasures await. On the plus side
the new piston is getting ordered sometime this week, the cylinder will be going in to get bored and honed, and I'm going to start porting and polishing the head. silver linings I guess...: )
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BMHD,
When you go to porting you head go to this link and read through the porting recommendations this guy talks about. Especially check the intake port filling. One of the performance engine manufacturers is selling a D port intake and manifold to match for the Sportster and Big Twins. This was real a popular intake porting proceedure back in the 80s before Ford began its SVO program. Also check over his break in recommendations. I used to do this alot when breaking in racing engines on the dyno.

http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm
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Sportyeric
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2005 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow. Interesting read on the linked site.That's gutsy to have JB weld in the intake. If it came loose there'd be a bit of trouble. That's the same guy that promotes the break-in at full throttle idea.
I like his "small port" concept, though. That's why I'm re-working S1 heads instead of going to T-Storms.
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2005 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I once did a Ford Boss 429 engine built for truck pulling, it was bored and stroked to 618 c.i.
The original intake ports were large enough to roll tennis balls down. When we got done with them they were raised into the rocker area and about golf ball size. If the intake port is prepped right, roughed up and sprayed with brake clean, JB weld will stick just fine.
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I've tracked down my top end knock. Took me a bit before I pulled the cam cover off..bingo. Failed intake cam. I'll post up pictures, I'll probably replace the lifters and valve guides as well to be safe.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you figure it happened?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great excuse to go with different cams!
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well spoken young Darksider! - lol
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I couldn't even begin to guess. I'm going to replace a few cheap top end components as well just to be safe, and see if I can't somehow cap that oil consumption.
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Jprovo
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2005 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BMHD, what failed? The gears or the bearings?
Some ebay links that might help you:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-BUELL-BLAST-CAM-CAMS-CAMSHAFT-CAMSHAFTS_W0QQ cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQitemZ4577924892QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-BUELL-BLAST-IGNITOR-IGNITER-CDI-ECU-COVER_W0 QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQitemZ4577924807QQrdZ1

James
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cam lobe itself is actually destroyed. I've been trying to use Myimager but I can't get them under 60 KB. if anyone wants pictures let me know where to send them, I'm done messing with 'em. the lobe itself where it pushes the pushrod up is ground out....kinda ugly. even my non technical sister looked at it and said 'oh wow.' it's gnarly.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you get a decent bore job and good rings, I'm thinking your consumption will go way down (mine is almost non existent). Did you get a matched high compression (10.5 : 1) piston?
Are you going to change the valve springs and run the XB (XL '04) or B70 cams? Even the B50's will probably be cheaper than stock cams and will 'bolt right in' with stock springs.
Jims lifters?

Anyway,just adding fuel to the obsession!
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Burnmyheartdown
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 04:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

where is there a site for the b50's and b70's? I need to compare prices..does rev performance have them? That's what I've been looking at. My dad is recommending seeing if Harley has overbores pistons for it, and then having a local shop bore it to match the piston, that will keep it cheap. Jims lifters are for sure, plus new valve guides and such.
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Jprovo
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Both Revolution Performance and HD sell overize pistons. The ones Rev-Performance sells have a 10 degree dome that matches the combustion chamber, the stock HD piston is a 15 degree dome, and does not match the combustion chamber as well. If I remember correctly, the HD piston is much cheaper. If you're really cheap like me, you'll see how wore out your current cylnder is, and then just put in a new set of rings if it is within wear limits.

Rev Performance sells B50's and some Red shift cams.
http://www.revperf.com/xl.aspx?action=camshafts

The other guys list a whole bunch of cams:
http://www.nallinracing.com/partscamshafts.shtml

James
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

B50's & B70's are Andrews cams. The B50's are the same as the Buell Pro Series cams (but usually a little cheaper). Many places now carry the B50s & B70s like Dennis Kirk (big catalogue company) for example. But they wont give you the kind of personal help & knowledgeable service like a Nallin Racing type outfit (small company like Crossroads, Banke,etc) will.
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