| Author | Message | ||
     Ltwin |
Time to replace the front brake pads. '03 Buell Blast. I would prefer not to go through a HD dealer if at all possible. Are there any other brands, or a part number, that I could use as a replacement? TIA. | ||
| Jprovo  |
EBC FA196. They wark for me. James | ||
| Ezblast  |
American Sport Bike sells Ferado pads at a good price - a nice product! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
American Sport Bike can now get Galfer pads for you and these are the bomb - longer wear and stopping is ASAP - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Galfer stock number is: 108 - this pad is gentle on the disc, great stopping power and does not fade! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
I need to replace the rear pads on my bike. I haven't even looked at the service manual yet, but is this a tough job. Also, looking into what pads to get. Local H-D dealer wants $47 for a set. Good price? | ||
| Buellistic |
www.cyclegear.com | ||
| Ezblast |
Its easy - use a flat piece of metal to keep the piston pushed back, remove the old and add the new - price is average, however, there are other options if you read the above. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
"AND" when you push the caliper piston/pistons back into the caliper the brake fluid will some how find its way out of the mastercylinder and wind up on some part of your motorcycle that you do not want it on !!! | ||
| Ezblast |
Do it gently and slowly and no break fluid will leak! - have done this many times and no leaks. Just remember to change the fluid out at the 10,000 mile intervals. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Xgecko |
I've never had leak issues and I have removed/changed brake pads numerous times both front and rear. Removal is all but a requirement for changing tires, just don't touch your levers. Changing Brake fluid on the other hand....well I've paid to have that done twice but I expect to have to do it myself this winter....not really looking forward to it I expect to be asking numerous questions | ||
| Buellistic |
2000 Owners Manual Regular Maintance Intervals ... Check brake fluid resrvoir levels and condition I - Inspect & if necessary correct, clean or replace. R - Replace or change 2000 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL Regular Maintance Intervals ... Check brake fluid reservoir levels and condition . I - Inspect & if necessary correct, clean or replace R - Replace or change | ||
| Sking1973 |
Is there a trick to remove the out side pad on the rear? I got the caliper pushed back and the pin out. The inside pad fell right out, but the outside one is being a bit tricky. Do I need the remove the rear mounting bolt to tilt the whole assembly forward? I haven't gotten my pads yet, but I thought I would see what it took to pull the old ones. | ||
| Ezblast |
Just needs finegaling - maybe some oaktree action? | ||
| Swampy |
Push the caliper towards the direction that would remove pressure between the remaining pad and the rotor. | ||
| Xgecko |
drop the wheel | ||
| Alchemy |
I just installed the Lyndall gold pads on my 06 Uly at 8600 miles. Also Flushed the old fluid and added Motul 600 fluid. I did front and back. I got the Sears Professional lift and built the wooden cradle for the lift points on the muffler. The lift worked ok and I used the straps to help keep it stable. I dropped the front wheel so that I could clean around the calipers while I had them extended a bit. I noted the FSM describes a cover bolt for the pin on the front. It does not seem to exist on the Uly in front. It is present on the rear. The rear pads are easier to replace but a little more awkward to flush IMO. One comment.... the fluid in the front reservoir looked fine. But the fluid in the rear reservoir was darker and seemed to have some smokey swirls in it. I am left wondering why this is. Since I use the rear more moderately I am wondering if the heat from the fan blowing over the reservoir area is the culprit? The Motul 600 is a higher temperature fluid so maybe it will not discolor so quickly. Did the break-in on the Lyndall pads and so far I like them. I cleaned the wheels up at the same time and I am interested to see if the Lyndalls keep the wheels a little cleaner. So anyone else notice the discolored fluid in the rear reservoir? | ||
| Swampy |
Discoloration will either be water or rust or the rubber inner hose liner deteriorating. Brake fluid is so absorbant that it will actualy cause water to migrate through the brake hoses. Thats why you need to change it out as scheduled. Silicone DOT 5 fluid will not absorb water. You need to use fresh fluid from sealed containers, and keep the cap tight. | ||
| Totolandman |
Just ordered EBC Double H Sintered PadSet Part number FA196HH for (2000-2007) Blast Front, EBC Double H Sintered PadSet Part number FA140HH for (2000-2007) Blast Rear for my 2005 Blast. I also order the EBC Race Brake Fluid as well. Ordered from www.brakerus.com where I get all my EBC stuff for my other vehicles. Fronts and Rears are priced the same at $34.32 per pair. The brake fluid was $14.49 a bottle. Cheers, Robb (aka Totolandman) | ||
| Xgecko |
Brake Pads update, I've been using Galfer pads front and rear Though the front brake pads EZ listed above (FD108) will work they are thinner, the pad that Galfer refers to as OEM replacement is FD112 which had more pad depth Rear brake pads are FD103 G1054 is the OEM type pad compound which is long wearing and clean compared to EBC's I got mine from cyclebrakes | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks Tony - I'll try those next time, however with over 3500 on both pads and still looking almost new it will be a while! However, Galfer really does supply consistent one fingered braking ability and is gentle on the disc - I really recommend Galfer over anything else. My rear brakes are still OEM original - over 80 good and original to when I got the bikes, will probably last forever. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I guess if you don't use them, they won't wear out.  | ||
| Xgecko |
I use my rear...alot, I picked up the EBC's from American Sport Bike because I needed them now (and they arrived fast) but after a week on front Galfers I ordered the rears and put them on, much better feel and not as dirty. | ||
| Ezblast |
The Galfer 112 are now 140 and a 140 pad is what you would order for your front - I would recommend the carbon-fiber for great stopping and gentle disc wear. My rear are still 90% stock - lol EZ | ||
| Themagster |
Hey EZ - doing maintenance - and rear brake pads were a little worn so as long as tire was off, decided to replace. One pad was worn a little more than other. They were the original pads, so 36,000 miles on them. Replaced with OEM - but when spun tire it felt pretty tight. Rode around block and I hear a squeal when I pulled into drive, like pads rubbing against rotor. The brakes felt like the rear has always felt, more like slow down power than stopping power (I dual brake, front rear when stopping anyway). Rear was off for a over a week and now just not sure if maybe got things put back together in wrong order, the manual leaves a little to your imagination. Still researching on this site...but found your post and thought I would throw it out there. Will keep looking though site. To be clear, do the flat washers go on the outside or inside the swingarm, are there pictures out here. Don't mean to sound stupid, but with age the memory goes and the manual doesn't have the best pics. I am certain that spacers are in correct position, that is not an issue. Been a long time since I put new brakes on so just not sure what's going on. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Washers on the outside of the swingarm, only spacers on the inside. Check the caliper locating bolt that it is in the loop on the swingarm. Its easy to misalign it or even miss the hole altogether. Are the pads significantly bigger than the old pads? If really in doubt, you can put the old pads back on. | ||
| Themagster |
Thanks Erik - the pads are much thicker, as I guess the old ones were pretty worn, but they are the correct pads. They were not worn evenly though - one pad worse than other. OK got the washers correct. Is it possible that it could be the clip? If it had a tab rattle off or if it didn't get put back in perfectly. Not sure why one pad would wear worse than other. Guess because the brakes wear so slowly that when the new thicker pads get on there I am just not used to the thickness. Worse case - wear the rotor and would have to replace it I guess. I will be putting new rubber on in a couple thousand miles, so the tire will be off again and everything rechecked. I appreciate your help, Mags | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I have seen pads that were too thick even though they fit and looked correct. Different applications can use the same pad, but with a different thickness. Its not unusual for one pad to wear quicker than the other (within reason). The caliper slider pin can become sticky as well as any other parts the caliper must slide on. The caliper piston could be cocked in the bore if pressed back in wrong. The tab could cause a problem, but I've never had to really do Blast rear brakes so I'm not familiar enough with them to be specific. But if its a scraping noise then look at the tab. If you used non stock brake pad material, they can make a lot of noise. Stock pads tend to be soft. "Performance" or other pads can be real noisy (like bricks on your rotor). The rear brake pedal could be out of adjustment causing the caliper to hang up (check pedal freeplay). If the pads hang up you'll wear the pads out first. It could lead to overheating which could cause squealing and even turn your caliper smoking hot! There are other less likely causes but since your Blast is relatively new they are not worth mentioning. ...and I think maybe I've given way too much information already. LOL! | ||
| Ezblast |
 We are now official! Damn - that was work! EZ | ||
| Slabber |
I got quoted FD266 and FD103 today by Cyclebrakes... Will need to reconfirm front fitment. |
