| Author | Message | ||
     Buellriderx |
So I changed the ignition coil today and it fired right up  Anyway now I need to change the clutch cable .. appreciate any help I can get. Never done something like this before. Do I need to take off the whole side cover on the tranny or just the round bit behind the peg support? What about the oil? Should I drain it .. if so where's the plug and what kind do I put back into it. Thanx in advance for any advice! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You dont need to take the cover off or change the oil (unless its been awhile)., just the small cover behind the peg support comes off. There is a small piece that the cable fits into that YOU MUST NOT DROP into the cover or you will have to take the large cover off. Its been awhile since I've done it so I dont remember specifics, but its all in the repair manual and not that hard. You should replace the O ring where the cable enters the cover. It may or may not come with the new cable. part#11179 Should be available at the HD dealer. | ||
| Swampy |
"Should be available at the HD dealer" Should be available at ANY H-D(spit) dealer, as long as you DO NOT tell them it is for a Buell. Tell them it is for an any year Sportster, they will have plenty of them. You have to remove the clutch adjusting lock nut then screw the adjuster screw into and through the adjusting nut, remove the round clutch throwout arm from the cover. Attached to the throwout arm is a connector for the cable(these parts are all behind the round throwout arm so you can't see them until you screw the adjustment screw through the adjusting nutand pull the round arm out of the primary cover) Then just figure out which direction to remove the attachment clip and slip it off the end of the cable. Remove the old cable and instal the new cable remembering the new O-ring. DO NOT over tighten the new cable as it will snap the threads off in the primary cover. May the force be with you... | ||
| Themagster |
And also with you  | ||
| Swampy |
Nope, I'ma Dope! the lock nut is held inplace with a spring under the clutch cover. but you need a thin screwdriver to screw the adjusting screw through the adjustment nut....bla, bla, bla | ||
| Buellriderx |
Took the old cable off and started to put the new one on but ran out of time .. gonna finish tomorrow night. Thanx for the help guyz! | ||
| Buellriderx |
It was a pain in the ass but I've got it goin' again Thanx for the advice!! | ||
| Buellriderx |
Yesterday went for a ride and my ignition coil went out again after a few hours. Can anyone tell me why this keeps happening? The first time I thought it was because my ground wire got frayed and broke. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Didnt you just replace the coil? If not, coils and ignition modules tend to fail after they get heated up with riding. So very often a coil will stop functioning when hot and function after it has cooled down. Ignition modules can be the same way. What makes you think its the coil? | ||
| Johneblast |
Buellriderx, it could be the ignition module. But since you have two coils now (as I do because I found it wasn't that, unless you tossed the old one) you can check them with a volt/ohm meter if you have one. If you don't, they are fairly cheap at a hardware store or auto store. If you lay the coil down on a table (or wherever) and lay it so the spark plug post and connectors are "down" on the table, you will see there are three connecting posts in the connector. They are vertical, the top post being "c"=ground. The middle is "b"=ignition mod and the bottom "a"=switch at the handle bars. Set the meter to rx1. Take the common (or ground) lead from meter and put it to "b" and the v/Ohm lead (positive) to "a". You should read between 0.4-o.6 ohms. If you read lower than those values, toss the coil. If you read higher, there may be corrosion or something coating the post. Try to clean them. If you still read high, toss it. That is the primary circuit test. The secondary is much the same. Set your meter at RX1K and put the common lead to "c" and the v/ohm lead to the spark plug post lining. You should read 7,720-9,440 ohms. The same goes for the secondary circuit check as the primary if your results are higher or lower. I hope this will help. I'm on my second ignition module (the 2001 one seemed to eat em up). The symptoms of the module going bad are that the bike will run for a period of time and then just "die". The module will cool down and the bike would fire up like there was no problem only to "die" another 10 minutes down the road. It has to do with the heleffect in the sensor. They have changed vendors (at least by the part #) so maybe they figured it out. I don't have that problem with the new one. If you need the part number, let me know. I will need to go out to the garage and get it. | ||
| Buellriderx |
JohneBlast .. It'll fire up, run for a few minuntes, then just dies. I let cool down and it repeats the process. So you're saying this is the ignition module? If you could get that part number for me I would really appreciate. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
More than likely its either the slow/pilot jet is clogged in the carb -OR- Its a safety switch gone bad, kickstand,clutch or neutral. The ignition module problems usually* start after you've been riding awhile. Kickstand switch: Jump the 2 wires going to the switch at the kickstand together. Clutch safety: Flip the diode http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html Doing those 2 things should eliminate safety switch problems except for the Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) *Ignition module symptoms are varied and often inconsistent between bikes. It is possible its the module, but dont go there yet. Do the safety switches first. Then check the pilot jet. | ||
| Johneblast |
Buellriderx, Gearheaderikos' advice would be wisely heeded. If those checks fail you, then here is the part# for the module. Y0459.11A7 I bought a backup with the same part# just in case this vendors product is bad as well. I'm hoping not as the one I'm running seems to be holding up to my abuse. I ride every day to work (and that means weekends too. We are unbelievably busy and have been since October of last year!) If you haven't checked the other possible issues, please do, and if your on a "California" model, shit-can the charcoal can! Happy trails!  | ||
| Swampy |
After it dies crank it and see if the LED on the ignition module flickers on and off. It it goes on and off when you are cranking it it probably is not the ignition module. |
