Author |
Message |
R38007
| Posted on Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 04:42 pm: |
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Well if I had one I would... |
Crackhead
| Posted on Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 07:37 pm: |
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tape measure or a ruler would get you within a size if your eyeballs are good. |
Britchri10
| Posted on Wednesday, December 02, 2009 - 07:15 am: |
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DIY Caliper: Take large paperclip. Bend large paperclip to conform to the wheel nut. Hold bent paperclip against a ruler etc'. Note size. Buy appropriate socket set. Easy! Chris C |
R38007
| Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 03:53 pm: |
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Well thanks for the tips! I was hoping that someone knew this off the top of their head but it must be a mystery :P :P I get paid tomorrow and I need to buy tools anyways so I am just going to get a whole metric socket set. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 06:29 pm: |
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LOL - same set of sockets you would need for your primary - EZ |
R38007
| Posted on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 09:53 pm: |
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Well I dont have any tools for that but will soon |
Tsunamix
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 10:41 pm: |
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Having a tough time deciding on tires. I pull up the stock sizes of our tire and found the best match in what I'm looking for are the Avon AM26's in 120/80/16 and 110/90/16 I looked at my tires and noticed they were Dunlop Arrowmax GT501's, 130/90/16 and 120/80/16. If I were to stick to those sizes and kept them matching, I found Bridgestone Battleax BT45's, but I don't think I'll need those. What I'm looking for in tires: Long tread wear, decent handling as I mainly just commute to work and visit my parents via highway. Any suggestions? I'll keep looking as soon as I get back later from bowling. It's league night =) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 01:03 am: |
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Easy - I've heard nothing but tails of how the Pirelli 66 Over-sized lasting from 8 to 12,000 miles - but I only know a few running it, most Run the Diablo Over-sized 4 1/2 to 7000 miles because of its awesome handling. Still - if the bike is a commuter then that would probably be the better choice, and I hear it handles about equal with the Avon warmed up - so not bad at all, as long as your not racing. EZ |
Tsunamix
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 07:26 pm: |
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Thanks for the response Ed! Did you mean the Pirelli ST 66 or MT? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, May 06, 2010 - 12:21 am: |
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Yes - the ST66 rear - 140/70, mount it with the Diablo 110/70 front and you should be golden. EZ |
Tsunamix
| Posted on Thursday, May 06, 2010 - 11:44 pm: |
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that's the set I'll be getting =). Looking at my treadwear, I know I only have a few hundred miles left. Even measured it up with a penny and yup, just about time. Thanks Ed! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 11:03 pm: |
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Scott/Newblaster lives close to you, you should look him up - he's still having fun on his 03. With 35/9/1 so close, and all in between - you ride in paradise man. EZ |
Sking1973
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 08:33 pm: |
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Wondering if anyone has a trick for getting the bolts out of the rear pulley? Right now I have them soaked in PB Blaster. They just won't budge and I don't have an air ratchet. Tips? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 08:47 pm: |
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Rap the head of the bolt/screw with a punch and hammer ... Where are you buying the PB BLASTER, wal-mart used to sell it and "i" need more ... |
Sking1973
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 08:57 pm: |
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Explain please. Should I put the punch in the center of the torx head and hit downward essentially just knocking the threads a little loose? I picked up my PB at the local Wal-Mart, but it was last summer. They might not have it either now. I'll have to check, next time I'm there. |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 09:33 pm: |
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There is probably Loctite on the bolts. The way to break them free is to use some heat on them, either a propane torch, possibly a heat gun could do the trick. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 09:42 pm: |
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You want to hit hard straight down and not damage the torx head ... Had same problem on my BLAST and to do away with the can not get apart problem "i" replaced torx's with hex head bolts ... |
Sking1973
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 09:53 pm: |
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Cool, I will have to give that a try. Thanks! |
Tsunamix
| Posted on Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 05:37 pm: |
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Got the tires mounted today. The shop said I have to be easy on them for the first 100 miles to avoid sliding around. Getting them to the shop was the fun part ^_^
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Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 06:44 pm: |
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LOL - how about with the tires on the wheels, on the bike. EZ |
Tsunamix
| Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 12:34 pm: |
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I've been riding on these tires for 300 miles now and I love em. the bike handles twice as better than before, only bad thing to happen was some neighborhood kid deflated my rear tire and I didn't notice for about 20 miles =(. It looks fine after reinflating it though. I didn't notice that question there. my best action would be to put a couple of towels over the seat and givi mount (that I got), wheels stacked on top of each other mounted with strap-downs (at least 2-3 to balance it out.) And then enjoy the heads you'll turn when you drive by people =) I think this will work, that is, if you have a spare set of wheels run on in the first place. Thanks again Ed |
Rusty7983
| Posted on Thursday, September 09, 2010 - 06:41 pm: |
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i bought an 03. it has no rear brakes. the guy i got it from said it just needed to be pumped back up. i looked for leaks and fluid is good. do i just bleed and go? what else should i check? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 01:22 am: |
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If bleeding works - relax. EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 11:43 pm: |
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I replaced the front brake switch, and the rear light bulb receptacle, bulb, but still no brake light! Am I missing something? Or is it time to go down the wires to check for a break? I do have running lights. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 29, 2010) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 11:55 pm: |
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I did a simple voltage check on both sides the of switch and I got power - lol - the light on the tester turned on - argh! What am I missing? Switch given a good dose of contact cleaner as well. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 01:25 am: |
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Did you jump the wires together on the switch and see if the brake light turns on? If the light goes on then the switch is bad. Test the ground at the bulb. The running light might be using the brake light as a ground (but you'll usually see a difference in the brightness of the bulb when the brake is activated or the bulb may go out altogether). You need two things for the bulb to light. +Power and -Ground. Bypass the wiring and connect + directly to the tail light housing wiring harness. Ground is probably through the frame. Its a simple system, so there isnt much stopping you from bypassing every switch or wire on the bike. You can even disconnect the whole tail light assembly and hook it directly to the battery. Just some ideas..... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 12:00 pm: |
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Thanks will investigate! EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, October 02, 2010 - 08:06 pm: |
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Fixed - broken front orange and yellow wire in the harness - replaced. EZ |
Rusty7983
| Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 10:37 pm: |
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my brakes appeared to have a bad hose from the reservoir to the master. it had a small amount of fluid on it. a few hundred miles will tell. |
Cliffburton
| Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2010 - 03:38 pm: |
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Does anyone know where I can get seals for the blast front caliper and master? My local dealer is telling me they are no longer available.Original Nissin mumbers would be nice.Was this brake used on other bikes like honda? The dealer wants me to buy a whole caliper for 50 bucks. No way Jose! |