Author |
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Sarodude
| Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 08:49 am: |
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I bought a used blast once where I met the guy at a public place as it was midway between where we lived. It had a torn boot. I wrapped the boot in duct tape and of course the bike ran properly. It ran so properly that I forgot about the boot & duct tape for a few thousand miles till I was doing work in there one day. Man I gotta get my bikes running. -Saro |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 09:50 pm: |
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Yeah you do! EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 11:06 pm: |
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This Blast is looking good! He dropped in the XB9 set - cam, piston, head, and FI, cutting off and plating FI for the rear, ecmspy to tune, ad an AF sniffer to exhaust, using a regular Blast frame, modified shock mount for XB height shock, raising height 4"(a Blast Works shock would have bolted up to the stock location allowing the use of the stock rear end seat frame), XB wheels, tires, brakes, bars, fairing, lights, and swing arm, adding a custom rear frame holding a modified dirt-bike seat, rear tail light kit...the custom front pulley and idler pulley, all just awesome work and a definitely in the great "Buells that used to be a Blasts" group - needing only a fork-brace, a set of GV emulators, and a Works competition front end fork spring kit to complete the bike potential to be all that it could be. It is an awesome Blast! EZ
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 12:14 am: |
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Yep. Nice job! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 02:54 am: |
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Think this could work and be worth it? JCW is so vague about it except to say brighter than stock - looks cool! http://www.jcwhitney.com/7-round-led-headlight/p2023192.jcwx?filterid=c2834d347y2009o20j5
EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 04:34 pm: |
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Just a few more shots to show how much work went into the bike. I'd love to ride it to compare between carb an fi, also to see how the large tires feel in that dynamic/chassis set up. EZ |
Geelp
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 12:26 pm: |
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Hi, long time lurker, first time poster! Got my 2008 Blast in March and love it! But I have a problem. I've checked search and maybe I just don't want to see the hand in front of my face but I can't find exactly the answer I'm looking for. The last time I went on a ride, it started to become hard to shift the Blast in lower gears. The shift lever had moved waaaaay down below where it normally was. I tried to move it back by hand and soft hammer when I got home. I took it for a ride, but this resulted in clatter in first gear. Moving to 2nd wasn't super easy but it was done. Can't tell if I managed to get it up to any higher gear. Lever fell off when I played with it again at the house after I got home. Neutral is easy to find. Shift lever wants to slide down by footpeg and lift up from there. So what do you think? Do I just need to re-adjust gear shift lever? What is the correct way to do this? Any links welcome!! Or do I need to look for spring/detent plate problems? Not mechanically minded but I have the books and the parts to have a go if I need to! Thanks in advance! GeeLP |
Crackhead
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 12:51 pm: |
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Adjusting the shifter with a hammer is not a good idea. There is a allen screw that you loosen to adjust the shifter. Hopefully you haven't bent anything and doing the shift paw adjustment will take car of your problem. |
Geelp
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 01:01 pm: |
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I just tapped the shifter onto the--the manual calls it the splined collar--using just the slightest pressure from a soft hammer to move the lever onto it. The allen screw? You are talking about what the manual called the pinch screw? I don't think I've bent anything. Everything looks fine. Can you explain the shift paw adjustment? I've heard that phrase but I'm unclear as to what I will be doing. |
Crackhead
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 02:35 pm: |
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The manual walks you through the adjustment, but it adjustes the shift linkage. The only special tool will be the machine # drill bit. |
Milt
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 08:07 pm: |
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Isn't that shift pawl ? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 09:37 pm: |
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Yes! |
Swampy
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 09:44 pm: |
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Geelp, Try a couple of things first before adjusting the shift pawl. Try adjusting your primary chain first, there are several methods oulined here. Adjust your clutch, make the internal adjustment first then adjust the cable length. Remember to shorten the cable length first before you make the internal adjustment. After that you could try draining and refilling you primary with a 20W-50 full synthetic engine oil of your choice. If it all fails go and adjust your shifter pawl. There are a ton of things you can do to your Blast once you get your primary cover off, they are outlined here in the Thumper Forum. Good Luck, keep us informed of your progress. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 11:21 pm: |
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It sounds like its just a loose shifter. If its not tight it will cause shifting problems exactly as described!? Tighten the pinch bolt after finding the most comfortable position to shift in. |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 03:51 pm: |
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I was just assuming that wacking the shifter into place with a hammer caused the shifter pawl to go out of adjustment. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 10:22 pm: |
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Good point. |
Geelp
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 12:07 am: |
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Thanks for all the feedback! Yes, I meant "shift pawl"! I will check out all the options you have given me and keep you informed. I am out of town for Thanksgiving but will let you know how it goes Monday. |
Twack
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2010 - 11:25 am: |
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Im envious of all you southern boys, here in MN theres no more blasting or the season |
Milt
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2010 - 01:25 pm: |
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You just don't dress right, Twack. Talk to Froggy about winter Blasting ! |
Twack
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2010 - 06:48 pm: |
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ive thought about going out on some of these nicer days. but on my last ride before the winter i snapped the belt and have been to lazy to order and replace it. but technicly it hasnt been stored yet for the winter so well see what i can pull off |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 12:56 am: |
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EZ, that headlight is interesting and given the brightness of small LED's, I have to imagine its pretty darn bright. But at $300, I'll probably never find out! |
Rex
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:47 pm: |
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12th ANNIVERSARY Celebration for ASBN! Monday night, December 6th, 6:30 pm. NOTICE! MEETING LOCATION CHANGE! We will be meeting at Dick's Restaurant in San Leandro, Ca. 3188 Alvarado Street. 94577-5710. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 03:19 pm: |
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In their letter they mentioned doing a kit type or full bike, depending on the customer's wishes - Mac is going forward despite HD and using Buell Blast motors! How cool is that! With Harris frames, usd 3 way adjustable forks, and a 3 way adjustable Hagon shock! That kit with those cool wheels, and the CF body parts - wow! That bike will give the supermotos a run for their money! Pretty cool! For details - http://www.mac-motorcycles.com/story.html Probably be a bit pricey considering the quality of the bits - especially a Harris designed frame (makers of custom performance frames for a long time), but still that would be an awesome Blast motor powered bike - especially with a few engine tweeks! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on December 04, 2010) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 07:07 pm: |
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I note they're not ditching the rubber mounted engine. Should make for a nice ride! Still, for $8500 sideway Pete's bike would be nice |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 09:18 pm: |
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That frame is way stiffer,swing arm as well, quality suspension, serious wheels and personal choice for rubber, cf bodywork - a just over 300lb bike with a properly tweeked Blast motor - sounds like a solid definition of a long term good time with a perma-grin side-effect - lol - a good multi-gauge like Westach could handle all the dash needs easily and maintain a more traditional charm. The Ruby is my favorite - totally minimalist. Really tempting - definitely my kind of custom, a few personal touches and you would be done. EZ |
Geelp
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 08:44 pm: |
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Thanks for all the responses last week with possible solutions for my shifting problems! Crackhead, Gearheaderico, and Swampy...y'all came through for me in a big way! First, Crackhead's suspicion that the gear shift lever just needed to be adjusted turned out to be correct! Using the tork wrench, I found I could easily tighten it. I had taken the left foot peg bracket off and it took several days for me to put it back on (the fingers get shaky after a few minutes of playing with those hard-to-reach hex nuts, so it took a day to put each nut back on, lol!). When I put the battery back on, the bike fired right up (yay! for Southern temps in the 60s and 70s this week!). When I shifted into first, I heard that wonderful "clunk!" that I had been missing for two weeks. The bike pulled forward in 1st and I ecstatically rode around the neighborhood, going up and down through the gears. I decided not to go into the primary until I have to. If it's not broke, etc... It should tell you how nervous I was and how gentle I tapped the gear shift lever before with a soft mallet when I thought I was putting it back on the bike! There were no other transmission problems! Is there a tool that can reach those three hex nuts in the left foot peg bracket besides my fingers and a standard rachet socket? Playing with those things drove me, well, nuts! One of the reasons I bought my Blast is because of the input of this board on how someone can easily work on the bike. After hearing from everyone, I had a little more confidence in what I was doing, and doing it this way obviously saved me considerable time, effort, and money since I didn't have to take it to a dealer or independent wrench. Again, thanks for the input! |
Sycho
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 09:46 pm: |
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Geelp, I feel for ya. I just had the last week off n decided I too would work on my Primary. I had to do a little bit here one day, and a little bit there another day. Cuz I was so fed up with the tight, cramped and just hard to get at places. I told Gearheaderiko that I did not want to see or touch another flexhead socket ever again. And then your supposed to torque it!! I think I'll just crank it as tight as possible and leave it at that. Course if you were to ever do rearsets it won't be a problem anymore as I have been told. Definitely something to think about in the future. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 12:30 am: |
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Glad it worked out for you (Geelp). A long extension with a flex socket works well. Removing the shock can make it easier (dont forget to support the bike). Replacing those locking nuts with the long nuts for threaded rods can also make things easier. Except for a clutch adjustment, normal maintenance can be done without removing the Y-frame. Why did you remove the Y-frame? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 12:34 am: |
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PS The Y-frames nuts are one of the few items I DONT use a torque wrench on!!! |
Crackhead
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 08:58 am: |
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I wounder how short the swing are is. Gleep, i am glad you could get it to work with out going under the primary cover. When you said you taped it back into place i pictured a 5lb bfh. |
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