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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Ignition, Battery, Charging System - Electronic Trouble shooting « Previous Next »

http://www.c5ignitions.com/motorcycle-ignitions.ht ml
For your stock and performance ignition needs!
EZ


A good step by step process for troubleshooting your electrical system:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/54010.html?1107789974

To advance the timing, you want to rotate the ignition module clockwise (as you are looking at it). If you advance it too far though, your motor will start pinging under load- which is NOT good ! You then NEED to back off or retard it some- until the pinging stops, this will be a counterclockwise rotation to retard the timing. I hope that helps. Advancing the timing increases the idle speed, retarding decreases idle speed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCBtfz0toRw&feature=player_embedded


Pro - Series Ignition instructions:

application/pdf
SEIpg1.pdf (117.0 k)

application/pdf
SEIpg2.pdf (130.1 k)

application/pdf
SEIpg3.pdf (91.9 k)

application/pdf
SEIpg4.pdf (84.3 k)

application/pdf
SEIpg5.pdf (90.2 k)



Twin Tech 1005 Ignition - Buell® Blast

If you require a programmable aftermarket ignition for racing the Buell® Blast, we have the solution. You can use our Model 1005 Race version that mounts in the nose cone in place of the Blast module. You must replace the original equipment coil with our mini coil (P/N 2006) that has 3 ohm primary resistance. You will also require our timing rotor (P/N 18004) and VOES switch (P/N 18010). Minor modifications are required to re-index the timing rotor and provide clearance in the Blast timing cover. Please refer to our Buell® Blast Tech Note for more details.

application/pdf
Blast_Tech_Note.pdf (114.7 k)


As far as the twin timing cup, I'm pretty sure I followed the directions from Twin Tech on making a cup to use their ignition on the Blast (posted in the ignition module section). The second hole is where it would be if the Blast was a twin XL or XB and would fire on the missing cylinder compression stroke. Static timing is still the same, but you'll need to use a 'dial back' timing light and use the TDC flywheel notch to verify timing. The 2 dots previously used will now show full advance! Its the budget way to get a good ignition and 7500 rpms. The SE module was about $120 new!
SE module part # is 32969-98 and 32971-98 for the 7500 rpm limit modules. (They also sell 6800rpm modules, but why bother?) One is for the 883, the other for the 1200. You'll get better performance with either, but which advance curve is better I dont know. They run about $120 new, but watch e-bay for deals since they are discontinued.
Just about any Sportster 'nose cone' ignition will bolt in without much hassle. So there are some other SE modules that will probably work, including some selectable modules, but they arent fully adjustable like the Blast/XL SE module is (and they cost more).
To run these twin modules you'll need a different coil as the Blast uses a .5 ohm coil, the other modules use a 3ohm coil (check to be sure). The .5ohm will work, but you may damage the module, eventually.
You'll also need to run a modified twin timing cup otherwise your advance curve will run up at 1/2 rpms and you'll have a 15000 rpm limit (thats bad).
You'll also lose the TPS, but you can hook up a VOES or run nothing (the ignition defaults to WOT running without a TPS or VOES).
You'll also lose the auto enrichener (electric choke). I havent verified this, but you may be able to hard wire the auto enrichener to a switched (on with ignition) 12v power supply or a manual switch. Still waiting on verification whether the auto enrichener gets power all the time or only for the first 5-10 minutes of running. Or run a very easy to find twin CV carb.

Its not nearly as complicated as it sounds, but it gives you the choice of spending $300 on an aftermarket ignition or much less on a Screaming Eagle ignition. Both will probably need the above modifications to make them work properly since only the SE Blast/XL programmable ignition 'bolts right on' (and is very discontinued: ().




Buell® Blast
If you require a programmable aftermarket ignition for the Buell® Blast, we have the solution. You can use our Model 1005 that mounts in the nose cone in place of the Blast module. You must replace the original equipment coil with our mini coil (P/N MINI-COIL) that has 3 ohm primary resistance. You will also require our timing rotor (P/N ROTOR-32402) and VOES switch (P/N VOES-KIT-MC7). Minor modifications are required to re-index the timing rotor and provide clearance in the Blast timing cover. Please refer to our Buell® Blast Tech Note for more details.


Clutch Switch Fix -
I was having some trouble with the safety switches and a dead starter button. Sometimes it would seem like it was the neutral switch, as shifting from neutral into gear and back again would sometimes energize the starter. Then other times it would seem like it was the side stand, because dropping the side stand or raising it would allow the starter to energize.

Well, It was neither. The culprit was the clutch switch. Apparently the clutch perch is tweaked a little because of the new bars I have installed, and as a result, the switch plunger was not fully extending unless the clutch lever was clamped hard into the grip. It only seemed like shifting the bike, or monkeying with the stand was helping; what was really happening was that I was changing my grip on the clutch lever slightly without realizing it...

I shaved 1/16th off the plastic plunger of the clutch switch, and bingo, problem solved...

Kick stand - cut twist and tape wires - done

Clutch Safety - Flip diode


application/msword
Blast static timing.doc (142.8 k)
application/msword
Blast static timing-alternate method.doc (66.0 k)

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  Start New Thread        

Spark Plugs
10R12A
NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended)
NGK DPR8EA-9 medium
NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12)
DCPR same except socket size
Denso Irridium IXU01-27 (Notes: Do not use their recommended plug - it references back to the old 6R12 number that is too hot and was superceded to the 10R12. Also red locktight the ceramic and electrode together before installing, otherwise they will viberate loose. Their Racing plug plug IXU01-27 is the hot ticket and will suposedly last the life of the vehicle - I run it!)

Note: the Crane Cams "Fireball" HI-4 (Powerlink)Programmable
Ignition is the same thing as the Blast SE Ignition, and what HD/Screaming Eagle relabeled for
their own use. BTW- it's the Ignition that I've been running for a
while now.

Author Message
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Chipmyers
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2015 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
That's what I did. Worked fine. Did a little 15 mile ride today after work and all went well.

Thanks again for your help
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
From the "just in case" file: make sure the gasket sealer is rated for gasoline use. If it's not it will come apart and clog up the carb.
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Chipmyers
Posted on Friday, April 03, 2015 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Troubles continue........
Last night the blast cut off on my wife, just DIED. No electrical at all. Tugging on the wires the ignition switch came apart. Melted plastic and some melted wires. Looked like toast, no pun intended.
Any ideas on a replacement? Nothing on Ebay and American Sport does not have a listing. Hoping to please the Blast Gods and get some divine guidance...

As usual, Thanks
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2015 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Loose front ground grounded and fried the ignition. Goes for that and clutch line. So check that as well. To replace it just order it from - https://shop.newcastlehd.com/https://shop.newcastlehd.com/
EZ
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Chipmyers
Posted on Saturday, April 04, 2015 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Thank you
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Chipmyers
Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
No luck. Found a second hand one @ TD Motorcycle in Denver though. This bike was wrecked and I patched together with all sorts of tape and bubble gum. I have found all sorts of kustom repairs.
I am gonna keep sorting them out and should have a brand new 15 year old motorcycle soon.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 16, 2015 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
http://www.c5ignitions.com/motorcycle-ignitions.ht ml
For your stock and performance ignition needs!
EZ
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Blueblast
Posted on Friday, April 17, 2015 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Awesome! Thanks EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 17, 2015 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Since ignitions will be first on the parts kill list, I brought these guys up because first their ignition can be bolt on for stock configuration, and for modified motors they are willing to help there as well with raised rpm limits, custom curves, or even a programmable ignition. Their cost is explainable since a 80,000 volt coil and wire system also comes with the ignition package - making it about a little over 60 bucks over a stock ignition alone - if you can find one - lol
EZ
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2015 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
So let's talk about the C5 ignition...

Is it simple plug-n-play? How much wiring work is needed?

Can we raise the RPM limit with it (just a bit) for a stock (stage 1) motor?

Same timing procedure as with stock ignition? (talking about static timing here)
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2015 - 03:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
They have a plug in type that is pure plug and play with it already set for 6800 rpms - the highest a stock bike will go. I have a friend going with a custom one - with the tps adapter - two curves - 1st curve the SE 5 curve with 6800rpms, and second curve the SE 9 curve with the rpms set at 8000.
The guy who runs the company seems very sharp and flexible - give them a call and see what would be right for your set up.
EZ
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Vicenzajay
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2015 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Sounds like the stock setup already gives us a small increase in RPM limit...which would be nice without having to incur much in the way of further work.

Speaking of work - how's the install - plop it in there and attach wires? Set timing and go?
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2015 - 05:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Give him a call, he installed it on both of his Blasts. He'll be able to answer any questions.
EZ
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Roblast
Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I stupidly left my bike w/ the parking lights on overnight and killed the battery. I didn’t have time to wait for the trickle charger to do its thing, so I wanted to pop the clutch to start it. Got it rolling in neutral but as soon as I shifted into gear (w/ clutch pulled in) it stops rolling before I could pop the clutch. I couldn’t move it in gear w/ the clutch pulled in. What gives?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Blasts have a very sticky clutch until it’s warmed up.
It will also only bump start in 2nd or 3rd gear.
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Missionbolts
Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I've tried bump starting my Blast a few times. Done a couple scary 1st gear sliders too!

I've tried dropping hard on the tail of the seat right as I hit the shifter. Just slides

I've tried over-tightening the clutch in order to be up in 3rd when pushing, didn't work

And I've tried shifting for 3rd while coasting, shifter won't go into 2nd until the bike stops rolling

Only thing that works is to charge the battery or get a jump. So a small jumpstart box or cables would be good to have

I've used a lawn tractor battery with short jumpers, to start my Blast. It's not so heavy to walk down the street with and easy to haul in a backpack. My street has a very tempting downhill off my driveway - tempting like the Devil!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
You CAN push start a Blast. 3rd gear is easiest, but you have to be quick getting it into gear.
But the clutch drags when cold and that makes it a real pia. Thats typical for Sportster motors.
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