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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2010 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Posted in the picture section - very nice!
EZ
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Leonard
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

smoking blast-literally!

I had been noticing some sort of fumes in my headlight recently but didn't give much though to it. Yesterday I thought I'd fiddle with the primary adjustment. While trying to turn the nut and not burning myself, I noticed a couple of drops of fresh black oil. It looks like it is coming from the top of the cylinder..near the "do not remove" brackets. How serious is this? There is a lot of light smoke/ fumes when the engine is running and for some time after it is stopped, presumably from whatever oil is burning.
I will be spending some time trying to get the primary adjustment back to what it was before I started messing with it, so if the leak is something serious, I might as well call it a season and start taking stuff apart : )
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First check the PCV grommet which almost always leaks a little, but its more than likely the rocker cover gasket if its leaking a lot.
Both the upper and lower rocker cover gaskets are fairly easy to change. If it only needs the top gasket, thats all I'd change. Changing gaskets just for changing's sake, is rarely a good idea.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
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Absolutezerofun
Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2010 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So at 4300 mile and 8 years later the wheel bearings go out.. NTN6204LLU... if your wondering the after market bearing number...
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2010 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As long as the new ones fit well - your ok - no biggie.
EZ
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Absolutezerofun
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone know the estimated Labor time to replace both tires and the rear wheel bearings?
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2 to 3 hours.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

But if its a question if you can do it yourself, if you've done all the other work to your Blast, you can easily do this stuff too.
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Absolutezerofun
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah I know I could do it myself... but didn't have a way of balancing the tires so i took it to a shop... and well took it in yesterday and gave them till Friday to have it done and they have yet to even touch it...
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Fahren
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are so many threads about changing and balancing tires on this web site... so many home-made or inexpensive setups... for the money they will charge you for the change,you can buy a balancing setup. Or make one. No, it will not be a dynamic balancing job, but many, many bikers do the job with a simple static balancing.
EZ must have the proper tools for the job, to change both rear and front tires and bearings. Me, I go slow, and I have to build up my tool arsenal slowly, as money permits... meanwhile, I wrestle with whatever I can do to get the job done.
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tire balancing is very easy to do at home. Just go get the tools and get started. You are going to replace alot of tires on the Blast, and by doing your own tires you are going to save yourself ALOT of aggrevation by not haveing to wait for someone else to do it and then charge you to screw things up. The bead breaker and balancing stand are all home built out of 2X4. Spend the money now on a No-Mar bar and you will have motorcycle friends flocking to your door.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2010 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also from the FWIW file: As long as the bearings arent brand new you can balance wheels right on the axle (as long as the caliper and belt are removed). If they are brand new, sometimes all is needed is a smaller diameter rod instead of the axle. Older repair manuals often detailed this approach.

Pirelli's often balance with no or very little weight, making the margin of error very slight. Balancing the rear isnt critical and is almost optional.

The rear wheel is ridiculously easy to R & R, its a crime to be charged for it!

I'm pretty cheap, but I'll have the tire shop do the M & B if its cheap enough (which can often be the case if you've bought the tires at the shop). The Blast tires are fairly easy to remove though and being tubeless makes it much easier.

Some though, understandably, arent a fan of wrestling around with a tire on the garage floor. If I can avoid it, I'll have someone else R & R a tire on a Harley 16" rim. THATS way to much trouble just to save the $30 (or $20) that they charge at Cycle Gear to have it done.
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Inos2219
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just changed the spark plug (had an old split fire and replaced with a Denso IXU01-27) on my 01 blast and when i took it for a ride it felt like it was rocking a bit...(going fast then slow)then it just turned off...had to wait for it to cool off before it would turn back on...any ideas out there of what might be wrong???
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Was solenoid red locktighted to porcelain? Is plug wire tight on plug and coil? How old is plug wire? That plug is the bomb, no problems there!
EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ignition? It is a 2001 after all.
EZ
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Inos2219
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Will take a look at that, I might need a new cable. This is the first time I change this since I bought it in may. Think the other owner never changed it because the old plug was pretty burnt. I did not do the red locktight, but will do that now. As far as ignition I haven't changed anything there, but it was struggling to turn on before I replaced plug.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do the stator/regulator tests, if they test good, then your charge would be good, then test battery completely, if over 2 years old, it could be shot - just a fact - if all is good elsewhere, and good battery - being a 2001, suspect the ignition or safety switches.
EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tire Info for installation and removing -

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/591948.html?1283812838
EZ
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Tnthumper
Posted on Wednesday, September 08, 2010 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok can anyone shoot me directions for removing the lock on the blast if you have no keys and bars are in locked position? need to replace it but first gotta move it since i am getting divorce. any help on this is appreciatted.
thanks,
John
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Crackhead
Posted on Wednesday, September 08, 2010 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

put the bike in N and with a friend pick the front end up and walk it.
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, September 08, 2010 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sick a 2X4 under the steering head and two people can move it without any problems.
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556blaster
Posted on Thursday, September 09, 2010 - 05:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wasn't sure where to post this, as I couldn't find anything in the knowledge vault.

Just got my 2002 P3, and I love it! two things, however, bother me a bit.

When starting cold, or even after warming up, when I hit the starter, she'll stumble/fire once and die. Crack the throttle a tiny bit and she fires up wonderfully, and idles pretty good as well, should I raise the idle a tiny bit? It might be DAS BOOT as well, but I'm gonna head over to my local HD/Buell dealer to see if its in stock before I order online.

Second, this concerns me more, might be tied to the first problem. When I go out to my blast, I stick the key in and do the regular checks (tires, lighting, etc) and then hit the starter button. Almost immediately, a small wisp of smoke will come from the area between the airbox and the tank, near the rear of the tank. It seems pressing the button will trigger something electrical and the smoke. However, when riding and idling, she's fine.

What electrical items are in this area that could cause such a symptom?

Thanks so much in advance!
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, September 09, 2010 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Loose ground - check and tighten grounds - front and rear - and battery connections. Replace das boot, rejet 45/170.
EZ
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Bottlefedbuell
Posted on Thursday, September 09, 2010 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"When starting cold, or even after warming up, when I hit the starter, she'll stumble/fire once and die. Crack the throttle a tiny bit and she fires up wonderfully, and idles pretty good as well, should I raise the idle a tiny bit? "

I noticed this happen to mine as well when I first got it.

After I did the one thing: You Are Not Supposed To DO.
(Yes, completely disassembled carb!)

As I was reinstalling my TPS, I had ohmed it out to set it correct, I noticed that the TPS was not zeroed out when keyed on.
So after giving the throttle a full twist to wide open and let it back to idle it would zero out.
Checked it a couple times in a row and happened every time.
I now key on, wait for self-check to complete, then switch on, and give throttle twist, then fire away.
It has started almost instantly every day since...

And Do Not Take Carb Apart, they are the only garbage pot-metal POS parts on the bike. (except for speed sensor...lol)
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556blaster
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2010 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ibelieve the front ground in in the isolator assembly, right? The ground strap there? Where is the rear ground?
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2010 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome to the Thumper Forum 556blaster!
There is only one engine to frame ground, that is at the left upper cylinder head area. Make sure the wisp of smoke is not coming from your air box or breather tube as both of those are in that area. The other place to look for smoke would be at the starter itself, either at the connections or from inside the selenoid.
Good Luck
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2010 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually if the battery ground is loose - this will happen as well - make sure its tight as well.
EZ
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556blaster
Posted on Friday, September 10, 2010 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what happens Sid there is smoke from the airbox or breather tube? is it normal?
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a little is fine, a lot is not.
EZ
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