| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
He was 80% right, the problem is he'll deny the 20%, insult the person conflicting with him, and then go on with his diatribe - been there and done that. That was Ralph all right, I could go to his group front page and copy his quotes there and match them to his statements here and they would be direct duplicates - they where the give aways, that and the fact that though he was confronted with his name several times, he refused to acknowledge it because he knew he was banned, and that would just get him booted, he's had several ID's on this board, but he knows if he reveals them, he'll get tossed. He's probably down to one now, which should guarantee silence. - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I would recommend the Revolution Kits, with Wisco Pistons, not the CP, as is in the NHRS kits, and enjoy a warranty on the parts as well. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Man, you internet guys are just wierd!  LOL! | ||
| Ezblast |
Ain't it the truth! EZ | ||
| Monzagtracer |
Hi, Do you have a spec sheet for terry's 14:1 comp salt flat blast engine? I'm interested in doing a speedway blast engine project. 13:1 comp on methanol fuel is what I'll need to get from the engine. Also, I have been told that installing a larger exhaust valve to equal the intake size valve will improve head performance. True or false? Thanks, Joe | ||
| Swampy |
Well... Generally speaking....a larger intake valve will gain more than a larger exhaust. Intake flow is by vaccuum, exhaust is pressure. It is all kind of a mysterious behind the curtain thing that goes on in the head for amatures doing port work. I have seen heads with great flow numbers but poor performance numbers, so you kind of need to know what you are doing with it. Generally both intake and exhaust valves are enlarged when doing performance modifications on a head. | ||
| Ezblast |
Depends if its for the quarter mile or the circuit race track. For details contact: http://www.jtsperformance.com/ ask to speak to Terry P. and http://www.revperf.com/ ask to speak to Brian N. EZ | ||
| Monzagtracer |
Ok, thanks. In speedway, we race around a dirt oval full throttle for about 30-40 seconds covering four laps. The throttle is basically "pegged" for that long, so I guess it would be like drag racing(high rpm's). I know of a four valve conversion for the ironhead sportster(riviera?), but was there ever a four valve aftermarket head made for the evo sporster engines? The blast engine is the front half of an evo sportster, correct? I'm new to harley, so please excuse the obvious questions. Joe | ||
| Ezblast |
There was a 4 valve head made for the Blast as well - but I don't think they sold more than 3 or 4. Link in the Blast Links section. If it is a full on WOT thing, smaller exhaust valves are suggested, Jim of JTS is getting into drag racing and would be a good one to ask for particulars. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Old question and forgotten answer - Does'nt the XB rocker-cover and gasket just bolt onto the Blast? | ||
| Buellistic |
Isn't a BLAST 1/2(front cylinder) of an XB9 with a THUNDERSTORM HEAD and PISTON ??? "i" use SPORTSTER Gaskets(front cylinder) on my BLAST ... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the XB gaskets are the same. Usually I just buy an XB engine gasket kit. All the gaskets commonly used are the same and the kit often comes with double sets of certain gaskets that are slightly different (almost as if they know you're buying it for a Blast!) | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes, but wouldn't an XB rocker-box have the extra clearance necessary for higher lift cams? Debating clearancing vs just buying a xb rocker cover and gasket is why I ask. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
My BLAST came from the factory with a XB rocker arm set up ... You should check clearances on assembly with a high lift cam as others are not concerned as the parts will beat the clearance into them selves ... | ||
| Swampy |
That is just the parts gettting to know one another!....LOL The gaskets will work with whatever cam you are using, as they do not set any clearances inside the engine...other than the head gasket, and that will only have an effect on the engine compression ratio(and if you want to get real technical, pushrod length, but that would be compensated for with hydraulic lifters, and with adjustable pushrods with solid lifters) | ||
| Ezblast |
I didn't ask about rocker arms - thank you though - but how much clearance an XB rocker cover would have vs a Blast rocker cover - I suspect more clearance in the XB due to the higher lift of 550, would I have to clearance for 580 lift? Would the beehive springs work for 580 lift? This is all stuff on the edge - but surely I'm not the only one to consider higher lift. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
A 580 lift with 1.75 rocker arms would then a 610 lift ... | ||
| Ezblast |
but a 530 with the same? - Nespa? EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Only 560 !!! | ||
| Ezblast |
True, but there is a small degradation of spring performance after so many miles and I like to think long term in effects on performance - thus the buffer promoting longevity of performance. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
That is why DUCATI's have the DESMO VALVE TRAIN ... | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL and adjustments every 2500 miles, unless it is the new ti stuff that doubles that number. Even my CR has them around 6000, though doing their adjustment is easier than a Duc's which is quite intricate. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
Mmmm... Desmo... You'da thunk they'da come up with that decades ago and had them working as well as what we have now with the hydraulic lifters and such. Maybe Erik has some ideas on that already that he hasn't put to use just yet... | ||
| Torqupine |
I have an ’01 Blast with about 6000 miles. The previous owner wasn’t very nice to it (ran it with out an air cleaner, probably didn’t keep the oil full either). I was riding at about 70 mph when it just turned off, like it was out of gas. It sparks just fine, I cleaned the carb, but it still won’t even try to start. When I used started fluid, it fired right on time, but through the exhaust rather than inside the cylinder. A quick compression test reveled that there wasn’t any compression. I pulled the exhaust off and cranked the starter. The exhaust valve moves up and down, but in the closed position it’s about a quarter inch off center. I’m guessing this might have something to do with why my bike won’t run. I need to get this bike running. I haven’t done engine work before, but I’m pretty good at figuring things out. The manual seems to say that I will need to take the whole bike apart (separate front half from back half, remove the part that says “do not remove” in big letters, etc.) to work on the exhaust valve. Is this true? Also, if you guys can point me in the right direction as far as where to start looking once I have it open, what part/parts are likely at fault here, what parts and special tools will I need? You guys have a great sight here. I will really appreciate any help you can offer, thanks. | ||
| Wolffsoul |
I have the exact same problem. I will be going 70 to 73 and that is the only time it does it from time to time. And mine is also a 2001. | ||
| Ezblast |
Two different problems - that first is a loss of total compression - blown seat,guide? Ws - yours could well be a bad ignition, but first I would eliminate the possibilities of a bad boot or safety switches. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, you dont really have to actually separate the two halves, but in reality you are just a couple bolts from doing so. But thats not what you do. I dont think the manual actually says to do that, but thats the way it seems to read to many. You just need to unbolt enough stuff to drop the front of the engine down to remove the head. You'll need a floor jack and if you want to move your bike around a tie down to hold the engine up after you remove the floor jack. It seems you've bent a valve from your description. Once you take the head off you might find out why. You'll need to look for valve to piston contact and it should be easy to see. If nothing is readily discovered by pulling the head, you'll need to pull the cam cover. Its not hard, just mark the ignition before you remove it and it will make getting it timed a lot easier. Rather than run a bunch of scenarios here, pull the head off and see what you find. We can go from there. Its not usually just as easy a replacing the bent valve and putting it back together. Again, it depends on what really happened. You should replace the oil pump drive gear with the updated unit. Its about $50. 2000 and 2001 were most prone to this failure. Keep us posted. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Jetting would be the first to check (since you dont know what it actually is) and shimming the needle. Then, as EZ pointed out, safety switches and ignition. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome Torqupine ! | ||
| Torqupine |
Thanks for the welcome, Gearhead, glad I found this site. I put about 1000 miles on my Blast before it died, and I really like it. A lot better than the POS Honda I used to ride. It‘ll be a day or two before I can tear into it, but I’ll definitely let you know what I find. Am I going to need any special tools from Harley to get this thing apart? Again, thank you for the help. . |
