| Author | Message | ||
     Kyuss |
Thanks for the suggestion EZ, now can you or anyone else maybe help point me in the right direction on how to go about checking the bike to try and locate the leak (i.e. do I have to remove the tank, the airbox, etc...). thanks in advance not that it means anything but I had the rocker gasket go on me before at around 1,200 miles. Now I am at 10,400 | ||
| Kyuss |
Since there is a fix-it thread I thought I'd post an little problem that was solved thanks to everyone here about a year ago. My bike would not start once and i had to leave it overnight at my work, only to find out that to fix it was as simple as lubing the little safety button on the clutch that was getting stuck. DOH! thanks to badweb on that one! not having to tow it 200 miles to the nearest shop and all saved me a bundle! | ||
| Ezblast |
Clean the motor - engine foamy brite works fast, just hose off, and then run bike, look for leak, if you can't detect, try taking air box off and repeat, then if still can't detect, take off tank, then repeat - lol. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Kyuss |
One more... My carb to manifold connecting hose has completely shredded apart once, clamps vibrated off once and fell off one other time. Maybe it has to do with the Bubs? You'll start to hear it spit and gargle before something happens. A quick, no where near a dealer fix is a car transmission hose cut about 3 inches in length and replace with that until new part arrives. I suppose this post area is a referance area for those of us mechanically inclined but lack the knowledge of procedure and/or whereabouts of certain parts and repairs. | ||
| Sarodude |
Kyuss- So far good thoughts on finding the leaks. Another possible source for a leak (depending on whether you've rerouted stuff) is where the crankcase breather tees into the airbox. -Saro | ||
| Kyuss |
thanks for the suggestions... and I have not rerouted anything... let you know tommorow probably. | ||
| Djrandombeatz |
My blast shows oil on the top of the crankcase under the carb/intake, i believe it is just oil/sludge leaking out of my airbox bottom as it wasnt sealed properly after i installed my k & n, i checked it, and sure enough there was oil residue on the bottom of my airbox, does this sound possible in your case? Chris | ||
| Kyuss |
FOUND IT! (see Illustration) I seem to have a real problem with parts around my carb area vibrating or breaking off? You can tell by the deer I ran over and then mounted on my headlamp for a trophy that I ride my bike hard as HELL! maybe that is the case.  looks like the oil line vibrated apart from carb | ||
| Kyuss |
vroom vroom again!  | ||
| Carcass |
RE: Gaskets H-D is switching to Cometic gaskets. Long we known (H-D Dealer) that the metal gaskets just don't leak. You should have noticed that all 02's came with metal rocker box gaskets. (Cometic) H-D hasn't changed the base gaskets to metal YET. The best fix is Cometic Base gaskets with Copper gasket spray on both sides. It'll never leak, and easy to disassemble, no gasket scraping. (For big bore, etc.) Even the primary covers are going to metal. -TORTUGA RACING | ||
| Sarodude |
Not all 02's came with metal gaskets - though the change was made later in 02 - like September or something. My '02 had paper. -Saro | ||
| Carcass |
That's right!   | ||
| Kyuss |
More rattling... my boot keeps coming off my spark plug. Anyway to secure it better besides glueing it on? I'm beginning to think somethings is a bit off on my bike that things keep rattling off... Kyuss | ||
| Jprovo |
Kyuss, Check your front isolator mount (the aluminum mount that mounts to the head), I've seen a few crack. In fact check all your engine mounting hardware. James | ||
| Kyuss |
now I'm scared to ask... but when cruising along at mid-rpm in 3rd-5th Gears I hear a rattle/ping/metal knock noise coming from the engine area. what kind of MAJOR or MINOR problem am I about to encounter? btw... everything is tightened down fine. | ||
| Ezblast |
Have'nt experienced that - might want to post this question in the general Blasting area to get more feedback! Hope someone out there has an idea! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Tnthumper |
OK I have a small bubbling leak at front left corner of engine....right where it mounts to crankcase I beleive...is there and easy or quick way to fix this? Is very small at this time but don't want it getting too much worse. Can high temp form a gasket sealant work if i loosen bolts just enuf to put bead between parts? Any help is appreciated. John | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The only way to loosen the bolts is also the way to torque them down. Loosening the bolts would also mean you'd have to replace the head gasket So re-torque head first. If that doesnt work, clean the area around the base and run some high temp (exhaust) silicone sealer around it. If that doesnt work its time to change the gaskets. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Thanks Gearheadiko, I will give that a try. John | ||
| Twistedpixel |
I've got a leak coming from what looks to be the timing cover. The hole where the wiring comes out on the bottom is wet with oil. All be it not a lot but after a hard ride it's enough to notice that the wire and metal below are wet/moist with oil. All help on how to fix this and what it means would be much appreciated. | ||
| Buellistic |
Could it be GEAR COVER SEAL PN 11124 ??? You "DO NOT HAVE TO DRILL A HOLE" in COVER,timer-outer PN 32341-00Y to get it off as the "WRONG AGAIN" FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL says ... | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur | ||
| Swampy |
I just replaced on on my Sportster. I used the proper sized screwdriver and pushed it in between the seal and shaft under the rubber lip and pried on it and it came right out. I used the proper sized socket to drive the new one in. Make sure you put some oil on the lips of the new seal before you install it. | ||
| Twistedpixel |
So from the sounds of it all I do is just remove the cover with the given screwdriver method and then I'll see the old seal right there and I just replace it with the new one (#11124) covered in a light coat of oil? Is there anything I've missed or is it just that easy? | ||
| Swampy |
You have to remove the ignition module out of the way, so use a scratch awl or permanent marker to indicate where it was originally positioned before you remove it. Then behind the ignition module you need to remove the timing cup. That has a nob on it so there is only one place to put it back on. Also every HD parts place should have this part even if they don't sell Buell parts. Just tell them it is for a Sportster! I would be willing to take bets that if you did go to a HD/Buell dealer(Excluding Our Sponsers) and asked for the Buell part, they would not have it but they could order it for you in two weeks, but they could go and pick the HD part off the shelf and probably have a dozen of them. | ||
| Ezblast |
  This gives you a real idea, however, I do not know if it is reachable by just removing the ignition and cup - if you did though - I would mark exactly where everything is - otherwise you'll be static timing your bike - and re-install exactly as it was removed. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  (Message edited by ezblast on November 16, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
One thing about Figure 3-113, YOU CAN NOT PUT THE "OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR" IN BACKWARDS !!! IMHO, the Torque Sequence Figure should be 1(2), 2(3), 3(4), 4(6), 5(5), 6(1), and 7(7) !!! Figure 3-116 is wrong as the case's need to be split to do this CORRECTLY ... So you have too much cam end play, WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER FOR THE SHIMS as the parts book does not have them ??? | ||
| Twistedpixel |
Ok I've got the new seal (PN-11124). So the next question is it reachable by just removing the ignition and cup? There seems to be some debate over this fact. | ||
| Buellistic |
Think about what you are doing and being careful, IT CAN BE DONE !!! | ||
| Swampy |
Yes, the cam seal sits behind the ignition module and timing cup. The cam cover does not have to be removed to remove/install the seal. |
