| Author | Message | ||
     Jakiwild |
I'm replacing the ignition module on my 2000 blast and I'm attempting to statically time it. However when I have the flywheel at the TDC mark, bike in neutral and Kill switch set to ON, I cannot get the new module to flash the red LED. Interestingly enough, If I pull the module out of the hole the LED illuminates, but not when it's actually properly seated. the bike seems to be almost to the proper timing as it will run beautifully for 8 minutes and then offer a single white smoke cough out of the carburetor. I'm at my wit's end here, and I don't want to end up taking it to the dealership If anyone has any ideas I'd be more than grateful | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Try turning the engine one full revolution. Your timing cup may be 180 degrees out when trying to time it. The old ignition should have some marks on it from where it was bolted down. If you have the new ignition in about the same spot, it should be very close. | ||
| Jakiwild |
Erik, Looks like that was the case with the light. I got the light now and it runs for longer and smoother but it still popped in the carburetor and died. I've got a timing light but I'm having issues finding the timing mark view plug from anywhere. | ||
| Jakiwild |
If it's really close to the right timing will the carburetor still pop? or could I be looking at a compounded possible bad fuel issue too? The tank sat completely empty for 2-3 weeks while I was waiting for the ignition module. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the timing is right you could still have the carb pop from other issues. The timing mark you're looking for is the 2 dots and it IS hard to see. Idle should be at 1200rpm or you wont see it. If you rev the engine a little, you might spot them going back and forth through the window. If your using a "dial back" timing light (esp. one with advance and retard) that will also help you see the dots. Painting them black or white can also help (depending on if your flywheel is dirty brown or shiny new grey). Other issues: If the timing cup came loose it can make the timing marks very difficult to see and will cause the timing to fluctuate and the carb to give the occasional pop. You'll have to take the module out to check (if you hadnt already done so). (just out, not disconnected and the rotor should turn easily if loose). The 2000 Blasts were jetted lean. The factory even upped the main jet in the later years. You Blast may just be too lean giving it the occasional pop. Install a 170 main (now stock) and a 45 slow jet and that will certainly improve running, whether it solves your problem or not. You might have the notorious cracked intake boot. Other less common issues could be faulty tps, bad spark plug, bad plug wire, loose connection, spark plug tip loose or off, bad fuel, or...... | ||
| Jakiwild |
I just replaced the infamous intake boot not 40 riding minutes before the module. So it's probably not that. I thought the TDC mark was a vertical line? Any good way to determine if it's timing or another issue? I checked the rotor, it's pretty solid, plugs & wires are new and I don't know which jets the bike has on it, but it did not pop the first 1000 miles I rode it. (The bike has a combined 34000 miles on it) (Message edited by jakiwild on August 15, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
TDC mark is vertical and is used for static timing (engine off). The 2 dots are used for dynamic timing (engine running). | ||
| Jakiwild |
Ok then I'm still good. HD doesn't make the Timing Mark View Plug anymore.. and I'm having a dickens of a time trying to find it. So i'm doing everything statically. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There are several different style plugs available and they fit almost every air cooled twin HD/Buell has made since God created them! Readily available from almost any HD aftermarket parts supplier (Dennis Kirk, J&P cycles,Drag Specialties,etc.). That includes American Sport Bike:http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5773.html and probably many of the other Badweb sponsors. | ||
| Jakiwild |
so I ended up tinkering with the module again, and apparently I wasn't sensitive enough with the static timing before.... no more coughing no more white smoke. Now though.. it dies when it's in neutral and you release the clutch. No jumping forwards, just stalls out. The neutral light is hesitant to come on, but the bike moves freely when you push it. Thoughts? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch. It may also be loose. If (IF) you can get a wrench back there see if its tight. Loose enough will even turn with your fingers. However, it can also be a bad kickstand safety switch. Common, its easily bypassed by jumping the 2 wires to the switch together completing the circuit. Also, switching the clutch diode will bypass most of the safety switches. See:http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html Either may also have contributed to the "puff" problem. Bypassing either may also bypass a bad neutral switch. |
