| Author | Message | ||
     Spooky |
Joe, Let me look at mine and see if I can come up with anything. Also check with the closest Buell dealer and see if they have the shift linkage for an XB in stock, if they do that should work. Eric  (Concur - Moderator) edited by ezblast on September 24, 2003 | ||
| Mikej |
(It appears to be working now.) http://www.americanthunderbike.org/productreviews/archive_banke1.php If that link doesn't work try going there from: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/productreviews/archive.php or from: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/productreviews/ Anyway, here is a pic from their American Sport Bike's web site:  Are you talking about the vertical rod? If so one of the stock Buell shifter rods may work, but then you'll still have to get the broken screw out. The best McGyver tip I can come up with is to either put the bike in 2nd gear and take it easy going home, or if you don't mind bunging up the shifter arm you might try clamping on a small set of Vice Grips and then either hand or heel shifting on the way home. Position the vice grips with the handle pointing forward, and avoid any big bumps or your bike may become an automatic transmission from the weight of the vicegrips. Hope this helps some. edited by mikej on September 25, 2003 | ||
| Spooky |
I couldn't see any fix other than getting parts from a Buell dealer. Sorry Eric | ||
| Jamaicadog |
Exactly, its that vertical rod, the very bottom part of it snapped off. I'll work it into second gear and manage to get it home that way. Thanks for the info, if I can't get a new one from Banke without too much hassle then I'll try looking at XB linkeage. Thanks guys! I should know better by now, this group is spectacular and rare, but I didn't expect much response so soon. My day's going better already. I figured the sun would be setting before I did anything but stare at it scratching my head. Now I've got a plan!! I'll let ya'll know how I fare. -Joe | ||
| Ezblast |
Joe - from looking at things you should be able to still manipulate that top short shifter arm with your toe - a bit of a reach, but if your carefull - you should be able to make it home. Eric is also right that the XB linkage should work, and should be readily available - another thought is a trip to the Home Depot Hardware section - threaded rod, nuts, and bolts section - you could probably match up something temporary there (the two end adj. screw eyes come to mind, there are other things that might work also - I used to be a stock auditor for them & their competition). http://www.bankeperformance.com/ this is the link for Banke I have in the links section and it works! Hope it helps! Luck Bro! Keep us posted on what happens! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  edited by ezblast on September 24, 2003 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Banke Perf. Ph # (831)335-1422 California time.(actually 'close' to EZ!?). Very helpful people when I have talked to them! | ||
| Jamaicadog |
Made it home that day in second gear, and would rather not do that again! Erik you were right, just got off the phone with Banke and they hooked me up, they were very helpful and pleasant to do business with. Have to warn anyone else this happens to though: I stopped by Boston Harley Davidson/Buell, and the linkages on the XB's won't work. Too short. The Parts Guy had another model Buell linkage as well, but it was too long. Felt like Goldilocks, "this one's too short, this one's too long". The Harley guys were great there, even though there is no chrome anywhere on this thing they were all totally helpful, trying to mock something up... then when they couldn't... gave me directions to a crotch-rocket dealer that might've had something for me. Thumbs up to the parts counter at Boston Harley. Banke is shipping one Monday, so I'll be back in the saddle next week. | ||
| Spooky |
Update on using the XB shift linkage with the Banke rearsets. It will work on the Banke rearsets. P/N N0320.02A8 Eric | ||
| Halfaharley |
What is the vibration like with engine-mounted footpegs compared to stock frame-mounted ones? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I didn't find the vibration really that much different(used rubber pegs).But didn't have them on long though (rearsets). Spooky-Thanks for the info-Do you have a price on the linkage? (I have a set of Bankes that I will eventually sell,but I was thinking about keeping the shift linkage from them!) | ||
| Spooky |
Can't remember right off hand what the price was, it was some where around $15 - $20 price range. | ||
| Ralphthe3rd |
My thoughts on the rearsets (all flavors). Well... I like the lower price of the Banke and that they appear very well designed/machined/made. But, I don't like the idea of Engine mounted pegs on the Blast. Why you ask? Well...if the engine was solidly mounted like on the flattrack bikes... I'd have no problem...it would all be solid. But with the Engine free floated (so to speak) on the standard Blast...whenever you load, or move more weight onto a peg...you're really NOT transfering that weight to the frame- but to the motor and swingarm only ! I just don't like that idea. I also don't like that all your weight is now being supported by aluminum pieces including the Engine ! But the Crossroads Rearsets come in Two Flavors. I.E. engine mounted , and Frame Hung. If I had the money to Blow- I'd go with Frame hung every time ! But so far... I haven't been able to cough up that kinda dough  Oh well.... But I'd like to make another comment on frame hung. I really like the idea of the standard footpeg mount. As it also doubles as a Crash bar. It has saved my engine cases on two occasions after spills. I'd really just like a more rearward and upward version of the same (sans Rear pegs too). I keep looking and looking at ways to maybe just move the pegs and controls higher up and back on the stock arms. Then cut off the excess. But if any of you guys with machining tools comes up with a Frame mount bracket and can gather up all the parts needed to complete the setup. I'd gladly fork over $300 for a nice frame mount rearset package ! And I wouldn't even mind if the Bracket was made of STEEL! Anyway, those are my thoughts.... I have to live with the stock setup (for now)- or save up for the frame hung Crossroads...or hope one of You guys designs a nice rig I can buy !? | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
I was initially concerned about the engine mounted rearsets, both because of the chance of increased vibration and lose of control response. I'm currently running the Bankes and have sensed no increase in vibration even with the billet pegs. In terms of feel in control response, I find the bike responds quicker with no lose of feel. I think this is due to a more comfortable riding position that allows me to get up on the balls of my feet. I do miss the engine protection of the wye pegs, but I guess the fairing will take the brunt if I spill now. Ray | ||
| Naustin |
Here's my thought with respect to a home-made rear set solution. Simply unbolt the 3 bolts that attach the peg support member, drill three new holes at the desired position along the silver frame component under the seat, and re-attach the peg support member. The Right side brake should need little if any adjustment. For the left, shifter side. Remove the shift lever. Extend the linkage shaft an inch or so just so the lever will clear the transmission case(welding required) - and reattach the shift lever upside down so it points backwards rather than forwards. Now you have rear sets... (and a reversed shift pattern - but just think of it as a passive anti-theft device). Who thinks this would work? Any body try it? You'd still have passenger pegs.... I estimate everything would move 8-10 inches rearward and 2-3 inches upward. Not sure if I like how it looks though.... (See pic I also thought about just building a super long linkage and putting a secondary set of controls on the stock passenger pegs. Then you could use the forward set, or the extra-extra rear set depending on conditions. But, using the stock passenger pegs, you have to lay down on the tank practically... edited by naustin on May 19, 2004 | ||
| Naustin |
Here's another thought. Chop off the passenger peg portion, rotate the peg support member and re-attach similar to above... This might be a better option, I think you'd have to extend the shift lever or create a linkage though... Somebody prove me wrong!!! edited by naustin on May 19, 2004 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
An interesting concept.My only thought was if the frame was reinforced at your new mounting location. I definitely like the idea though.(remount entire Y). (I still dont have my bike back from getting the Ins. estimate or I'd go & check the frame for the mount locations) | ||
| Naustin |
Ok, so Chop off the front peg support and just use the passenger pegs with relocated controls. I was sitting on my bike tonight and pretty much decided that this just has to happen. edited by naustin on May 20, 2004 | ||
| Ezblast |
I like both the Banke and Crossroads engine mount systems - very tight - the bikes handle great and its another boat anchor of weight off the bike! You can think of all kinds of ways to do it, its just I was up for pairing off all the weight I could - as any good Cafe/Streetfighter bike would have happen to it - lol - 323 and 332 are the bikes weight - only around 40lbs heavier than a racer! - as always - thinking of ways to pair down weight with out doing it to myself - lol - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Naustin |
The weight advantage of the crossroads or banke systems is obvious, and a very persuasive argument for dropping the cash. But, that last option I posted with the controls on the passenger pegs really trips my aesthetic trigger. It just looks like it was meant to be, and fits the lines of the bike -- and it is simple. Not only that, your feet would be considerably further rearward and upward than either the crossroads or banke sets. (Maybe too far?) I've been dropping my feet back to the passenger pegs while riding lately and, at least for my body size/shape, it just feels perfect.... | ||
| Naustin |
For those of us that can't sacrifice the ability to carry a passenger. Dual controls. Brake plumbing might be tricky to actually add a 2nd rear brake lever. But one could cheat and move the original to the rear control set and just not have a rear brake when using the forward pegs.... That might be a really bad idea though, especially since the only time you'd use the front controls is when you have a passenger. :shrug:  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That looks really uncomfortable unless you're tall! Castration anyone!I guess you could sit on the passenger section and hang your nads over the seat ledge. I liked it better when you moved the whole Y frame. | ||
| Naustin |
 I tried it, I wasn't sitting on my balls at all... edited by naustin on May 21, 2004 | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
I ride like that alot, but usually only when I know I won't need brakes immediately, like highway, or low traffic roads. Really cuts down on wind buffet and is pretty comfy. I do prefer the normal sitting position for control and visibility when in traffic however. | ||
| Ezblast |
You are using your rear break too often if you are using it for any thing more than emergency stoping and holding your bike on a hill. I'm on my origional rears and my 5th front set, will have to change a rotor next time probably - and I live in SF! Trail braking is for Rossi and Dirt riding - do your self a small favor by leaving off the rear break where you can - especially in the corners. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
So- It would work perfect to leave the rear brake lever in the stock location on the forward pegs where it can be used to hold on hills and for emergency situations when riding in heavy traffic or carrying a passenger. The rear pegs then need only the linkage to facilitate shifting at highway speeds... I was looking closer at it last night and determined that there might be some clearance issues. The rear fork only clears the peg support frame member by 3/4 of an inch when the suspension compresses.... That doesn't leave a lot of room on the inboard side of the support member to mount the linkage. And the support member itself is rather thick at the point where it "Y"s off. The linkage needs to pass behind, and between it and the transmission case at that point. I think there is room, but it may require some creativity to get it all together. I'm hoping not to have to modify the support member at all if possible (other than drilling a hole near the rear peg to create a pivot point for the linkage to mount into. Now comes the difficult part - Where and How can I fabricate or buy the levers and connection rods needed?? | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Ok Ez, i have to take exception to the "front brake only" concept. Why would you voluntarily not use your full braking potential? Both brakes used togeather will give you the best stopping power. Telling people to use the front brake only is unsafe. Getting into the habit of only using one brake, you may not use both when you nead it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'll have to agree with Rockbiter.You should learn how to use all your brakes and have the shifter and brake pedal on the same axis (or close). Realistically the Blast rear brake is so weak you have to stomp on it anyway to lock it up! | ||
| Ezblast |
Sure I'll bite - Straight stopping is ok but unnescesary unless an emergency - which is then a good time! The other times to use the rear would be to hold your self up or down a hill. The only other time you would be braking would be before a corner with the front - (though a few will take a few mph off with a rear brushing of the brake before a corner) - in the corner, where no rear would be used - safely - (some dirt bikers and the top 10 pro's on the track will use the rear for cornering, but no one else safely) - the risk of highsiding is is extremely high doing that. Sure - I believe in using both brakes, its just that there isn't a lot of real usage for the rear except in the situations I mentioned - they more than suffice for those usages - and getting used to using the rear all the time will get you killed in a corner using it there - simply the truth. Did I miss a usage? Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ edited by ezblast on May 20, 2004 | ||
| Mmelvis |
Ok here are some home made rear sets, back 4 inches on the stock mounts for me. You get an extra 3 inches of ground clearance to the ground.The shifter and break pedal are cut down to fit my size 10.5 shoe. Used the stock toe peg from the shifter. Tapped the shifter and brake pedal with a 5/16 hole and screwed in the toe pegs (had a spare toe peg).   The foot pegs are bolted onto the stock mounts. Not sure if I am going to cut them down or just leave them. With this setup you should be dragging your knee and not the pegs. Total cost $12 dollars for the bolt on pegs. Have a great day... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ, I'll mostly agree with your statement in regards to performance riding,optimum conditions and sportbikes. I think its too general of a statement to make. If you use the rear brake in a panic in a turn that can be bad.By the same token if the reason to brake is a road hazard (sand,dirt, water,ice,RR tracks etc.)using the front only can be very bad. I feel the need to beat this horse as the Blast is targeted at the new riders and what they will hear is "DONT EVER USE THE REAR BRAKE".When in reality (real world riding) you need to learn how to use BOTH your brakes. (of course, if the discussion were about heavyweight bikes using the front brake only would just be wrong) |
