| Author | Message | ||
     Luvdathump |
how has everyone been? its been awhile since ive been on. i moved out farther into the hills, it makes for a much nicer ride to work now. i have a question though, does anyone here think that the shift shaft seal can be replaced without removing the primary cover? i am think no but would appreciate your opinions. thanks steven | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. *The seal should be able to be pried out with a small screwdriver, pick or special tool made for exactly that purpose. You can also drill a couple small holes in it and insert sheet metal screws and pull it out or with a small 'slap hammer' and screw or pick. There may be other ways, but thats all I could think of off the top of my head! *I havent used any of these methods to do the shaft seal. Other seals maybe. Usually by the time the seal has gone bad other related things have already needed work. It is bad right? | ||
| Milt |
You're right - they are expensive. It's just that it's more expensive not to have them. Both manuals are available from H-D. I think American Sport Bike has them, too. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
or ebay! Welcome the5thhrsman! Yes, you got a good deal  | ||
| Luvdathump |
Gearhead, I thought about drilling holes in it and removing it with a slidehammer, but that's a pretty small seal and wasn't sure if i'd be able to get a screw into it without scarring up the shaft or housing i'm more worried about the housing because it's aluminium. I'll try it and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks Steven | ||
| Ezblast |
Use a pic and pry it out, I have, then find a socket of the proper size to tap the new one in. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
You can use a pick to pry it out, I have used a small screw driver to remove the crank seal in the timeing cover very easily. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Hi guys, It's been a while for me to post. But the last time I did you all helped me diagnose what I thought was loose drum bolts. Well I started having more problems, like the Blast wouldn't start at times unless I rocked it and I even had a day where it stuttered while I was on the highway. My thoughts were the starter or the voltage regulator. While pricing parts at my local HD dealer the parts guys asked me about the battery condition, not something I would have thought of. Turns out, the ground wire screw had become loose. A couple turns with the screwdriver and the bike runs perfect....why can't everything be that simple. No more neutral light coming on when I'm riding, starts every time and no stutters on the highway. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
What is the current school of preference for tires for the Blasts? I do highway commuting daily on mine and not a lot of twisty rides(which disappoints me). I've got over 15,000 on the OEM Dunlop tires, so they are basically smooth in the middle with tread on the sides, but no cords showing. Ive read a lot of the older postings but am not sure the best way to go for my riding. Any thoughts? | ||
| Cliffburton |
15000? That has to be some sort of record!The OEM Pirillies are sticky and smooth out the ride. | ||
| Ezblast |
Pirelli ST 66 140/70 rear and Pirelli Diablo 110/70 front seems to be the popular commuter choice - I'd love to see the mileage you get on this tire, if you got that on the cruddy Dunlop. For performance I would go with the Diablo oversize front and rear - which is doing 5000 to 8000 miles. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Bonesdl1, What drum bolts are you taking about? The shift drum bolt? Anyways, glad you got your problem solved! I like the Avon tires, AM 63 front and AM26 rear. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Couple of quick questions: How long does it take for the engine to cool down enough to install my Denso iridium spark plug? 3 hours is my guess. Do I need to lube my cables after 8 years 10,000 miles and can I just spray Liquid Wrench's silicone spray down from the levers? | ||
| Swampy |
Spray from the levers, I had the throttle body get tight on me on the Ulysses once, but a little shot of lube took care of it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FYI/FWIW: The Diablo 110/70 front is undersized when compared to the stock sizes. For mostly highway use I'd go with the MT75 in stock size (the only way they come) or the Diablo 100/80 size (which should be the same size as stock), if you're using Pirelli's. You will notice more of a gap between your tire and fender when you install the 110/70 Diablo on the front. You may not notice any difference in highway handling with the smaller Diablo on the front, but it may affect your confidence. With tires, confidence is often the biggest difference. Just so there arent any surprises! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
3 hours is more than fine. If its cool enough to handle, its cool enough to pull! Use anti-seize. Its good insurance in case you have to pull it when hot. Lubing never hurts and its way past due. | ||
| Ezblast |
Gear - we are talking just over a mm - lets not get carried away, and I'm betting the lean contact patch is a bit more because of the narrower side wall. so I'm thinking they equal out with the handling nod going to the over-sized Diablo. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You Can See The Difference In Size. To say it looks like a dirt bike with the fender sitting way up high might be an exaggeration. I didnt just look at the numbers and say its smaller. When compared to an MT75, whether on or off the bike, it is significantly smaller (and narrower). I never said the Diablo didnt have a better lean-it does. But if you are putting on tires for 95% highway riding then you need to know what you are getting. Putting on a smaller diameter, twitchy (aka: better turn in) tire is not going to make you happy when just as good a tire was available that had better straight line stability. Once again, I Am Not knocking the Diablo 140/70 & 110/70's. They Are Different and if you are choosing tires for a particular style of riding then you should be informed as to what you are getting. Some people dont want twitchy handling bikes. They want rock solid highway bikes and mileage. They could care a less about lean (why else would they run an ST66?). I've ridden both Pirelli's. The MT75's and the Diablo "oversized", on the street and on the track. The ONLY bad thing I've ever said about them is that the increased weight and size of the rear tire will decrease ride quality. Increased unsprung weight decreases ride quality. Its fact and I felt it. But to a rider weighing 150lbs and a rider weighing 250lbs, its going to feel a lot different. Geez, dont make me go all caps  "insert head beating against a brick wall emoticon here" (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 16, 2010) | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Ok guys.. no need to go all caps on each other. Everyone has their ride preferences. I like the less twitchy feel due to the constant road that the state of Maryland like to keep us in. The bike twitches just enough as it is whenever I run across the grooved lines in the roads. Besides, this will probably become my wife's bike next year so I want her to have a solid feeling bike for her first ride. (Message edited by BonesDl1 on July 16, 2010) | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Yes Swampy, I was referring to the shift drum bolts. But as Murphy's Law works, the neutral light came on while I was riding to work this morning. I'm going to check my connections at lunch first. I might just have a loose connection somewhere else too since it doesn't come on when I lean the bike from side to side which I believe is another indicator of loose shift drum bolts. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Any thoughts about the Michelin City Grip or the Metzeler Feelfree tires? | ||
| Ezblast |
The Metzler has good reviews, simular to the Pirelli Diablo - since it is owned by Pirelli - it is to be expected. The Michilin has wild life expectancy, however, terrible handling - about as bad as the Dunlop. Erik - the tire isn't twitchy - it just more willing to lean over because of the shorter sidewall - I'm in agreement with all else - its just something one easily gets used to, and learns to enjoy because it assists the bike in handling better. To me that is a good thing. You know I was against oversized tires, and the biggest Pirelli fan of the regular sized. When Avon came out with an oversized though, I figured I'd give it a shot and was impressed with the quicker lean in; and now the Pirelli is even better - and the life of either tire is twice what the regular size is! EZ | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
So is there really any downside to running the ST66 on both front and rear? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Front tire traction. I'd run the stickiest tire on the front you can get. Its still going to go minimum 10,000+ miles and any front tire will probably have uneven wear before it runs out of tread. Sliding the rear tire can be fun. Sliding the front tire can make for a very bad day  My opinion! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The front 110/70 Diablo feels twitchy to me. I just dont understand that when someone is looking for a mostly highway tire, you direct them toward a tire that is less highway friendly and more curve friendly? | ||
| Ezblast |
You have to remember - I ride it freeway to work - even on rain groves its as stable as the big 1125's tires. Going home I take a long way that incorporates a nice set of twisties - unless I have an in-city errand. That combination is rock steady for a big guy, maybe size or suspension has to do with it - I felt as much feedback on the 1125 as I do my Blast - every bump - stiff/firm, with little bounce, except where needed - lol - that may be the fork oil your using as well - the 7.5 made feedback smoother and more distinct for me. Dunno - besides a willingness to more easily go into a corner - it feels better than the MT75 front to me. I dunno - but there must be good reason - what air pressure you run them at - 32 to 34 is where I keep my front end. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My bad. I'm just making this stuff up as I havent run them in a year anyway. I traded them to James for a set of MT75's that went on the raceBlast. He runs them on the street now. I didnt like they why they felt and I run freeway 95% of the time. I like a taller front tire with less turn in and a rear tire that doesnt feel like a jackhammer. Read my report. To date I havent ridden on a tire that was less affected by rain grooves than the Diablo 110/70, "they all but disappear". I've found that tire choice rather than tire size makes the difference on rain grooves. The 110/70 needs a minimum of 34 psi. At least that we can agree on. 7.5 fork oil would bounce riders off the track (unless you have valves). Thats my opinion and my experience. I'm not about to spend a bunch of time trying to make tires work that I didnt like the characteristics of anyway. They arent that special. If all I did was corners, I might go with an MT75 rear and the Diablo front. But frankly, I like a big front tire. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
He guys hope your having a good weekend. It's HOT here in central Texas. I just finished doing Swampy's breather reroute and clearing the fuel tank vents. I have a quick question about the left panel that directs air and covers the coil. Can I take it off? Normally I would, but I am a true bad weather biker. I ride in some serious thunderstorms and I don't want water on my coil and in my air box. Speaking of rain; can I still use the venturi and filter mods on the top of the carb section if I ride in the rain? | ||
| Ezblast |
2hr - you'll be fine - Erik - I guess I'm a twisty kind of guy! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur!..and yeah, you're twisted |
