| Author | Message | ||
     Videoninja |
It is my understanding that stock timing is too high for the 10.5:1 comp piston....and that I need to retard the timing 3 degrees for every .5 worth of compression. With that being said I need to dial back my timing 4 degrees to compensate for the .7 increase in compression. Does anyone have a definitive guide on how to properly do this? | ||
| Ezblast |
1mm movement of the ignition, is roughly 3 degrees advance or retarding of the timing - depending which way you turn it. EZ | ||
| Videoninja |
Which direction advances and which retards timing? Is anyone else running the 515 w/ stock ignition, if so how did you properly set it? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
From the top of the previous header page: "To advance the timing, you want to rotate the ignition module clockwise (as you are looking at it). If you advance it too far though, your motor will start pinging under load- which is NOT good ! You then NEED to back off or retard it some- until the pinging stops, this will be a counterclockwise rotation to retard the timing. I hope that helps. Advancing the timing increases the idle speed, retarding decreases idle speed." A 'dial back' timing light is an easy way to set the timing where you want it. They can be had for about $40+. At the very least it will show you how far to go for 4 degrees (which I think, which a plain timing light, the dots are at the edge of the timing hole instead of the middle-I havent done it in a long time). You can also static time it for retard or advance, but I dont remember how (where the timing mark should be in the window). Properly set is also up to you. Stock setting may be fine and you can advance or retard as need be using EZ's post as a guideline. But you are right. The 515 does tend to need a little less advance, just make sure you watch it carefully for knock and ping which could be timing or carb mixture. I'd pull the spark plug regularly until you think you have it right (dont forget anti-seize). | ||
| Daddyblaize |
Is it different timing the 515 with the upgrade to Daytona Twin Tec? And I’m having trouble installing mine... any help | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Are you using the stock blast timing cup? | ||
| Daddyblaize |
No I spent the extra bread and sprung for the Daytona Twin Tec 18004 I think it was and 3-ohm mini-coil | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing should be set the same. It did come with instructions? If you're using a timing light, then timing is set exactly the same. If you're still using a single notch cup, then timing can't be set any different. It still has to spark at the exact same time. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
So my cup has the two notches in it and I'm trying to do my best to index that keyway the 45 degrees counterclockwise | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing is set differently now. It should say how in the instructions. I wrote it up somewhere on Badweb, but I'll have to look later. Renotching is easier if you have an old cam. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/59815.html?1509741641 Everything you need should be in that thread. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
I actually saw this G thanks for reminding me to check it out though | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you find your answer? It's a pretty simple procedure, it's just been so long since I've had to time a Blast this way, I don't remember exactly how it's done. Rather than me re-read it, it's better if you do. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
No doubt I see how simple those instructions are...no question that there's some anxiety with inaccurately indexing the new rotor and even clocking my brand new Andrews Camshaft | ||
| Daddyblaize |
Then after all of that I'm clearancing the ignition module housing to accept the new 1005 without going too far as to ruin the housing and oil passages. Then I'm sealing that housing, dropping in brand new Fueling Lifters,(Considering adjustable pushrods) install collapsible pushrod tubular covers and then new NRHS Jug, Head....yata yata |
