| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
http://nashville.craigslist.org/mcy/1681380731.htm l Nice - bet they used the Blast shock, so a Works shock would be doable. EZ | ||
| Awf_hand |
So, I'm headed to the HD local to pick up my oil filter. While I'm there, I'd like to pick up a new low speed jet. My idle hasn't been smooth and frequently the engine will "putt" its way down and die. The carb was cleaned and checked by the HD shop last year (brought in with same symptoms) and I ran a few tanks with Seafoam through it -probably should do more- which seemed to help. I'm not changing the exhaust. Will a new jet help richen up the idle? BTW, I'm also going to reroute the PCV as that seems to be caking things up in the carb as well. ______________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Rainman |
Mine did that and I replaced Das Boot. It stopped doing that for a year and then I had to replace Das Boot again. It's been two years now, and it's doing it again, so I'll try das Boot. Have you replaced your Boot yet? | ||
| Crackhead |
Have you adjusted the air/fuel screw? "Accessing Idle mixture screw- Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from fully seated,or for best idle speed." Also a 45 slow jet will help. If it is cold out then the Blast has a harder time idling with summer weight oil. | ||
| Awf_hand |
The boot. Yes the boot, I've done the boot. The boot is fine. I should've intercepted that response as I knew it was coming. Crackhead, I'll look at the IMS. That's a great suggestion!! ______________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Rainman |
Pretty much everything can be resolved by replacing the boot. My transmission was missing shifts, so I replaced the boot. My girlfriend was a pain so I gave her a boot. | ||
| Ezblast |
See - miracles occur when you replace Das Boot! - lol EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
I need to split the cases to clean out loose piston parts. Do have to remove the primary change and clutch basket? or can i just remove the cam side stuff and then split the cases leaving the primary side alone? I realize that will not be able to check the crank primary side bearings, but i might be able to flush the area. I pulled the primary side off to check the chain adjuster shoe it it looks ok but i might replace it anyways. The guy never adjusted the shoe (still had the spacer). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the primary components have to come off. On the plus side you dont have to remove the trans or crankshaft assembly. | ||
| Crackhead |
Are the bolts holding the halves together behind the clutch assembly? Will i need a clutch compression tool or can the clutch come off as an assembly? I will also need to buy a locking bar for the primary chain/ cogs. From looking at the manual, all of the transmission parts will stay with the primary side case half excluding the main drive gear which passes through the cam side case half. What do i used to glue the case halves together? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The manual specifically mentions the glue. The bolts are behind the clutch and the clutch comes off as a unit (without a spring compressor). The engine sprocket nut will come off with an impact wrench (note the direction) but you'll still need the locking bar to put it back on(several styles are available besides the one American Sport Bike sells). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Primary-Drive-WEDGE -Locking-TOOL-Big-Twin-Sportster_W0QQcmdZViewItemQ QhashZitem335b67eb9aQQitemZ220576869274QQptZMotorc yclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2938wt_941 | ||
| Rainman |
I'm fighting the urge to ask if you tried replacing the boot first. I pulled that on the boss but she didn't get it. I told her it was an inside joke. She asked if it would be all right if she remained out of doors on that one. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LOL! I guess its a sign of the times. If there's a problem with anything now, just try re-booting first! | ||
| Ezblast |
See - Erik is an IT as well! EZ | ||
| Rainman |
My IT guy told me that my computer had a virus that was working the keyboard and that was why it kept shutting down. Something about an ID10-T error. | ||
| Britchri10 |
I see those all the time in my office. Have you tried tylenol? Chris C  | ||
| Crackhead |
I just placed an order with all for a bunch of gaskets, tools and parts to split the cases, clean out the crap and reassemble a motor. | ||
| Ezblast |
Let the good times roll! EZ | ||
| Gcha |
As was suggested, I purchased a Pirelli Diablo 140 70 for a rear tire replacement! Havn't installed it as yet, still some miles left on yhe MT75's. A friend has a Metzler Lazertec Bias Sport Touring Rear. It is a 130-90-16! Would this also work on the Blast? And by the way.. that 140-70 Pirelli Diablo sure looks wide! I do hope it fits! Gary | ||
| Krjoseph |
It fits like it was made for the bike. I've been running the Pirelli Diablos since the fall of 2008. You'll love them. | ||
| Crdaniel |
Just got back from wearing down the new rubber on my Pirellis.... I mounted 'em just a few weeks ago. All I can say is awesome!!! Truly great tires (front and rear). I had wear left on my MT75s as well, but just couldn't wait! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Any tire with "90" for the profile is not going to fit the rear of the Blast (except 110/90x16). A 120/90x16 might fit depending on the brand/style. Any 130/90 isnt going to fit. The width isnt the problem on the rear, its the height of the tire. The swingarm will accommodate a very wide tire! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Crackhead: Yes, let the good times roll! When you're done, you'll officially be the Badweb Thumper side expert of Blast engine teardown (and rebuild we hope)  | ||
| Sycho |
Gcha, I'm runnin the MT-75 front with the Diablo rear as per recommendation, and I love the combo. I have not tried the Diablo front so I can't compare. But I pushed the front tire to over 10,000 miles and over 5,000 on the rear. I wanted to keep ridin on the rear as there seemed to be alot of tread left on the sides, but it seemed to wear down alot in the middle and made it look flattened. Probably due to incorrect tire pressure. | ||
| Crackhead |
I hope it will run too. If it does, then i get to start assembling parts to build up my other cases. How much taller is your deck height compared to the XB motors? I was thinking about 12 fly wheels with 9 rod, 3.875 (600) cylinder, stage 3 head, and 2008+ crank shaft diameter. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
12 flywheel w/a 9 rod? All the XB stuff "bolts right on"! I cant remember what Blast piston goes with the XB12 stroke crank, but if you're going to the trouble of boring the cases for the 600 kit and a stage 3 head, its best just to move up to an XB head too. The XB head and piston (2004 XL) is a much better combustion chamber combination than the Blast (XL/Sportster) combo. Whoever builds or modifies the crank for you should know which is the easiest to do. An XB head is also a stage 2 head and given a new XB head is less $$ than a stage 3 Blast head, its cost effective too. XB12 & XB9 also use the same head and cams. If you stroke it, XB12 pistons are easier to find. Rev Perf should have/know everything you need to build it. PS Bore the case while its apart and you can add the 600 at any time. You dont have to use a 600 with a bored case (boring about $150 last time I checked). | ||
| Crackhead |
I though the Blast has a taller deck height then the XBs and to make up the distance the rod is longer then the 9 or 12. That is where the 12 crank with 9 rod idea came from. Posting it was more of an idea for me to look into reminder. I will defendantly move to a XB head. I though the cylinder need support from the case bore. But the motor i am cleaning out, it always going to be a cheep motor. | ||
| Reuel |
Sycho: The reason your tire gets flat in the middle while the sides are still good is not tire pressure, but riding posture. The more you lean, the more the sides wear out.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The deck height on the Blast is the equalizer that makes everything interchangeable. I dont think case bore fit is critical. There isnt any side load on it. Its like stock wheels on a car. They fit snug on the hub. Buy a set of mags and they ride on the studs. I'd do it, but I'm not the professional! A second opinion from a qualified source (usually someone who's selling you the parts)* is always a good idea. *They arent always right either and they do have their own ways to do things, especially if it sells you more parts! If something you hear seems contrary, ask someone else. An ex-sponsor here talked me into upgrading a brand new XB head with heavy duty springs and valves so I could run a really nice cam. After butchering a perfectly good head, they sent me B50 cams. LOL! Then they charged me a restocking fee when I sent the B50's back!!! |
