| Author | Message | ||
     Mxa254 |
Good morning all, Haven't posted in a while, but ran into a big problem over the weekend on my bike and am looking for help! The story: weather was amazing Sunday so I was riding with a friend for a few hours, on my return home on the highway I lost power and started decelerating rapidly. I pulled over and saw smoke coming from the motor area, and upon further inspection saw one of the two bolts came of the exhaust where it connects to the motor; I'm assuming this caused the engine to overheat. Thankfully a guy on his bike helped me out tremendously; he got his truck and towed it to my house (I'm fixing up his computer and he's helping me with the bike - love to barter!) So we're both working on the bike now; we took off the gas tank and parts last night trying to diagnose/find the problem. Is there anything that immediately pops out in your heads that we could look out? We did notice the spark from the spark plug is very weak, but not sure if that's normal on the Blast. I'm going to get a new spark plug today regardless. Also, is there a site or place I would order/download the Microfiche for the Blast? Any help would be much appreciated, thank you! - mxa '04 Buell Blast | ||
| Crackhead |
Does anyone have a drawing or pics of a motor stand for the Blast? I am going to be fixing the motor to my parts bike to swap into my current bike. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The Jims tool catalogue shows the Sportster/XL stand, but it doesnt show the Buell Blast stand. Sportster stand would work. Unless you need a reason to pull it out of the frame, leave it in the frame and work on it there. Unless you have to split the case, thats a good a stand as any. You could leave the swingarm attached and u-clamp that to the workbench. That will keep it from flopping around. You can secure the front via the front exhaust mount. Or......I'm sure there are other ways, but for me its easiest to leave it in the frame (especially if you dont have help lifting it). Swap the engine with the swingarm attached. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Mxa254: Spark, compression, fuel. Standard procedure is check all three. Spark should be blue (not yellow). You could have burned a valve if the exhaust was disconnected, but you didnt say it had gotten really loud, that it just lost power. A word of caution: Dont just start tearing everything apart "willy nilly".. See if you can get it running. Since you'll have the spark plug out, now would be a good time to check compression. Thats a real quick and easy way to see if anything major is wrong. | ||
| Crackhead |
Well, the oil pump drive gear went on the parts bike. Can I just replace the drive gear? I am going to pull the rocker boxes and check rockers. Would I need to pull the head to check the cylinder? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes | ||
| Crackhead |
Well, the motor has been pulled. There is a slight play on the pushrod side on 1 on the rockers. | ||
| Gcha |
It's time for a new rear tire on my Blast. Only 3500 mi. on orig MT75! What is a recommenced, better mileage replacement that will fit without modifications/problems etc. I am somewhat confused by the tire sizes, etc. My HD shop will only guarantee that the MT75 120/80-16 will fit. In reading the posts on the "tire" archive board, it seems that the Diablo is to be recommended, but the size does not match the Buell specs. Thanks | ||
| Ezblast |
For info - go to my bikes web page, then hit the files in the bikes group page for the needed info. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Funny how tire tech works - It is considered safe to go over or under a tires profile ratio by 10, and no more than 20 on any profile aspect. Aka 120/80 is stock and 130/80 would be ten over, also 140/70 would be 10 over in total ratio, and the max of 20 over for a ratio aspect - the width. 130/80 have been known not to fit, while the 140/70 fits. The 140/70 is a great improvement all the way around, handling and tire life. EZ | ||
| Blastronomer |
I noticed a little oil leaking out of the top of my left fork. Enough to drip down the fork and make a 2 inch diameter puddle overnight. Haven't ridden in over a week and it's been in the garage. Am I concerned?  | ||
| Crackhead |
Well, the parts bike motor with the 515 NRHS kit has a melted and broken piston. Part of the piston is melted to the valves and I think the piston chunks is what destroyed the oil pump and the oil pump drive gear due to the jammed pump. Check out the pictures below.  (Message edited by crackhead on March 29, 2010) | ||
| Swampy |
Blastromoner, Yes, you should be concerned. Good news is that changing fork seals are really easy, and should be done at regular intervals(what ever the manual says for fork oil changes), so get to it. Crackhead, isn't there a couple of other people here that have had the same problem with the NRHS kit? | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Hey guys... It's been a while since I've been on, and I've got an exhaust repacking question. I'm repacking my V&H SS2r exhaust. I have the repacking kit from V&H, but no instruction.. go figure. The kit come with the batting and what looks like a piece of nylon cloth. Does the nylon go against the perforated tube or does it go on the outside of the batting against the can? | ||
| Crackhead |
Swampy, yes there are a few NRHS 515 kits that have had issues on the site. I am going to find out what jets the kid put in there. I am wondering if he put in a thunderslide kit and followed the incorrect directions and went down a jet size. | ||
| Blastronomer |
Son of a B! The weather's going to be amazing this week and I can actually commute on the blast. I just washed the damn thing. Swampy, When you say easy, like how easy? Easy for Swampy? Or easy for someone who's never done it, like me? Manual says change the fork oil @ 20,000. I'm at 3100. What gives?  | ||
| Blastronomer |
Damn that just ruins my day! | ||
| Rainman |
It's not too hard. It's also not that expensive to have someone else do it. Swamp can help you big time as you're not that far from the Capitol city | ||
| Blastronomer |
can i ride it to the mechanic safely? | ||
| Awf_hand |
Blastronomer, I can't tell you what you can do safely. I've ridden bikes with failing fork seals before and, as long as it wasn't gushing onto the rest of the bike, and as long as the brakes stayed clean, I felt okay carefully making it to my destination. Your bike is an '09 model..? I would think that it should be under warranty. The bummer is the down time and having to make a special trip to get it serviced. Seals aren't a fearsome thing to change, but if it was so easy, the factory should've gotten it right, eh? ______________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you tried cleaning out the seal with some 35mm film? You take about a 12" piece, insert it inside the seal as far as you can, then slowly pull it up in a circular motion around the fork, any dirt breaking the seal usually goes out with the film, repeat 8 or 9 times, or till you feel no more dirt is coming out. That trick will work about 70 percent of the time, if not, replace seal. It is under guarantee though and they could just replace it at the dealership if you make an appointment with them, making sure they have the seal in first. EZ | ||
| Kojack |
can anyone tell me where the speed sensor is located on my buell blast | ||
| Swampy |
Blastronomer, no not to the mechanic, but you could ride it to me safely and I can show you how to do it... Try the 35 mm film swipe, I have ridden with the fork seals so bad that my pants were soaked with oil, now that is funny, I couldn't tell the dirrerence in handling, but I was on a Sportster...LOL. You need to suspend the Blast and remove the forks to do the seals, it is not too hard, no special tools required other than improvising a seal driver. | ||
| Blastronomer |
Awf Hand is dead on. It's the down time that kills. 70s this week in Michigan, should be excellent. It's definitely under warranty but I can't even get it in until next week. Since I need a new rear tire anyway, and based on the amazing cumulative advice from everyone, I think I'll try the 35 mm film trick and ride it until I take it in. Man, the crazy sh!t you can learn on here! Long Live the Forum!!  | ||
| Swampy |
What ever you do, do not get a Dunlop as a replacement. You will like the Avons, in either stock size or over size. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah Dunlop and Kenda are to be avoided, anything else is an improvement. EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
Kojack, it is located on the tranny behind the pulley cover. I can't remember which one of the sensor it is right now though. | ||
| Ezblast |
Speedo-sensor is behind the pully, on top of the case. EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
hopefully this weekend i will be pulling the motor from my bike (bad crank bearings) and switching the top end on the the parts bike motor. I just hope the cylinder from my bike is still good. Anyone have a used oil pump for sale? I also might have a lead on a salvage bike with a good motor. (Message edited by crackhead on March 31, 2010) | ||
| Ezblast |
Buy the Pro-series gear though, or you could just be repeating tragedy. EZ |
