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Message |
Tnthumper
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 11:46 am: |
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Swampy, No I am an Army National Guard helicopter maintainer. I work on the weapons systems the avionics and electronics systems. We are nearly finished with a year deployed away from home and I am having Blast withdrawl issues at this point. John |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 02:55 pm: |
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Well thank you for your service to our country! |
Joshinga
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 04:31 pm: |
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Savannah,GA area Riders Hey Im trying to up date a list that BUELListic has been maintaining but I feel that there is more of yall out there. Help out. I would love to get the group that was here back up and running. |
Rainman
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 07:02 pm: |
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Hi guys, got an issue: I'm leaking oil around the oil filter, where the lines from the engine enter what appears to be a sending unit attached to the housing upon which the filter fastens. The line doesn't appear to be broken and the nuts appear to be tight. Is there an o-ring in there or gasket that might go bad? Is this an easy fix? Should I take it to someone who knows something about it? It's not dripping like a faucet, but it's bad enough that today's 89-mile trip in 35-degree weather left oil streaks on the muffler. |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 08:44 pm: |
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Sorry to hear you are having problems. Number one, let your bike warm up completely before revving it up, when it is cold and all those dissimilar metals are warming up at different speeds the mating surfaces tend to shear the gaskets. The engine seems to vibrate a bit more till warmed up also. So now to try and answer your question, try to find out exactly where it is coming from before you try and fix things willy-nilly. Check your oil filter, make sure it is on real tight. If it is leaking from one of the lines, try tightening the lines first, if that does not work, remove the line, remove the fitting from the block, clean the threads on the fitting and use some teflon plumbing tape to wrap the threads and then reassemble. I would use the yellow plumbing teflon tape used for natural gas plumbing as it resists corrosion form the acids that are in the natural gas, and you never know maybe it just might help seal a little better. You are not supposed to use sealers on flared connections, just on the pipe threaded portion of the fitting, some people do, but the flared fittings are not made for junk to be squashed in the flare fitting. |
Tnthumper
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:39 am: |
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Swampy, Thank you. John |
Rainman
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 08:32 am: |
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Thanks Swamp, I had similar issues last winter when I rode really cold and it seemed to go away during the summer. This winter it came back and has been slowly seeping. It didn't really get going until the past couple of rides. I usually let it warm up until the choke idles down before I take off on it. I'll take a pic and send it to you so you have a better idea of what I'm talking about. By the way, I'm caging it up to Lansing in the next month, probably early April, you game for one of those local beers I keep hearing about? |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:10 am: |
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Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:42 am: |
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Ezblast and Xgecko: Got the parts to put my BLAST on the road ... Just need time to put assemble ... Hope to be riding soon !!! Will keep you'll posted ... |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:50 pm: |
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Buellistic, What did you do to it? I was just in your area last week, no bike though. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:57 pm: |
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Well, just rode Kim's new/used '09 Blast home for her. I forgot how fun they are But...at 6'4" with 34" inseam, I'm a huge barn-door windcatcher on this thing. And my knees are out in the wind, too. It would hold a fairly steady 70mph on the highway (75 without the headwind), but that was on the throttle stop. I read the FAQs and about the jetting recommendations...do folks leave the jetting alone if the bike is bone-stock? I know 45/190 is fairly mainstream on a tuber...is there a 'happy place' jet step-up for a stock Blast? Might go hi-flow air filter down the road...but for now, I just want to try and get a little more snap out of it if I can. And I've got a ton of jets laying in the garage from three tubers and an old FLH. Might as well pick through 'em |
Pauls_blast
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 05:04 pm: |
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I have a V&H exhaust and I jetted the carb with #45 #175 and I set the air mix screw at 2 1/2 and the pipe turned blue but the bike runs good no mis or back fire is this in the norm? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 05:56 pm: |
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Swampy: "THAT" does not stop you form contacting me on your way by ... My HOME phone number was put on my profile just for that reason !!! Just refine'ing what is already there as you know putting piston, cams, push rods, better valves, and other GOODIES COSTS a lot of $$$$$$$$$$$$ !!! Remember, "THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS" !!! There is a lot to do on this little engine that will make it last longer which some times makes it quicker where "i" ride and sometimes faster top end ... Before the "DEFECTIVE EXHAUST VALVE" came apart "i" got it to where the SPEEDO needle was almost touching the BLACK TRIANGLE for 90 MPH and "i" was setting up right ... "i" weight 250lbs and 6'3" tall ... |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:22 pm: |
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Yes Paul, thats the norm. Ratbuell: The happy place for a stock Blast is 45/170. Shimming the needle may help. Of course results vary, but richer than 45/170 with stock 'ventilation' may cause a shortened engine life. 180 main jet is usually max for a modified engine (If you're running much richer than that, you're probably not running an efficient street engine and better have the cams to back it up). |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:28 pm: |
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Rainman: Be sure the oil isnt coming from the rubber hose at the back of the oil pump (make sure its tight). Also when you pull the oil filter off, make sure the oil filter mount is tight. They can come loose, but you can still tighten the oil filter and not realize it. It probably wont cause leakage, but bad things can happen....... |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:41 pm: |
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Buellistic, trust me, you would not have wanted me to just drop by, I had a cute little 7 year old girl with me and she does not travel well, even to see the frozen manatees! Well I hope the Blast goes great for you! |
Luvdathump
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 08:39 pm: |
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I just got back from a nice ride today, I realized there's not anything much better than beaming sunshine, a river on one side evergreen trees and cliff face on the other. 40 miles of fresh asphalt didn't hurt either. Any way while I was coming out of a corner heading uphill I upshifted and rapped the throttle. I heard a clattery sound coming from the motor. It wasn't loud and only happened when I was rolling hard on the throttle and quit when I eased up. Also my idle seemed high when I stopped for a red light. Also I still have the "card in the bicycle rim" sound. The bike ran great plenty of power, very responsive. Any suggestions would be helpful as always. Steven |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 09:03 pm: |
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Loose primary chain, too low octane, "Das Boot", incorrect timing, incorrect jetting.....(was it knock or ping?) |
Luvdathump
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 09:29 pm: |
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Pretty sure primary is not too loose I'll double check though, I only use use premium fuel, Das Boot is pushing 2000 miles (I have a Whaley intake set-up w/ superboot on the way) I'm pretty sure timing is close, I might have to invest in a clear plug and a timing light just to be sure, Jetting is at 45/175. Like i said it wasn't a knock or a ping, it was more of a clatter, sounded in the top end. Do you think I should pull it apart to take a look, I was in there about 400 miles ago putting in a cam. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 12:37 am: |
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You replaced springs and stuff? EZ |
Luvdathump
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 01:06 am: |
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I only dropped in a B-50 cam. I was advised that upgraded springs & stuff wouldn't be needed |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 01:10 pm: |
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Correct |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 02:43 pm: |
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Buellistic That is terrific news! EZ |
Indybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:53 pm: |
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Woohoo! 6 more days until we are at 55 degrees plus! |
Odd
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 07:59 pm: |
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I found these cams at a swap meet,they are marked se1e, se2e. What is the difference between them and regular se cams. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 08:18 pm: |
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Are they in the box new? Are these the numbers stamped on the cams? Are you sure they're for a Buell/XB/Sportster? Does anything that came with them list application or are there any specs? |
Odd
| Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 10:52 pm: |
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cams were used out of a sportster, they were stamped on the cams |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 12:11 am: |
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I wonder if they where the 531 or the 551 series - sounds good potentially - either would require head parts upgrades though, but they would seriously help performance, and little loss to longevity. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 03, 2010) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 12:18 am: |
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the 531 actually was the better cam of the two - producing both more torque and horsepower. Usually its the other way around, but the cams profile is more radical than the larger lift one - causing that discrepancy. Both are good choices though - since the difference isn't that great. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 03, 2010) |
Odd
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 08:57 am: |
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Thanks for the help, NRHS said that they are a .551 lift cam |
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