| Author | Message | ||
     Java |
Hey, gang. I'm trying to do my front brakes. MOM says to start by removing the Pin Plug, then removing the Pad Hanger Pin (metric). I've removed the Pin Plug. How the heck does the Hanger Pin come out? There's no hex, or screwdriver slot, or anything on it. I'd appreciate any help y'all can give me. Have Fun, Tom | ||
| Jprovo |
It's a metric socket head, 6mm if I remember correctly. There's a hex in there, unless someone's stripped it out... | ||
| Java |
Thanks. I'll have to check it again in the morning. Unless there is some kind cap plug in there(like a carb mixture screw), then the hex and the whole head of the pin is completely hogged out. (And I'm screwed) Have Fun, Tom | ||
| Ezblast |
The head of the pin is deeply recessed. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
I should say there's a hex shaped hole in there... | ||
| Buellkat |
Help please. Would someone take a picture of the Front Brake Caliper mounted on the bike, showing the "Spring" in place. I removed the caliper to replace my front tire. When I went to put it all back together the "spring" flew out and the wonderful pic in my manual is useless for reality. I would be grateful, or if someone had a similar experience, the manual says to put the spring in first, then the pads, but what holds the spring in place???? I am wondering if I am missing another piece...hmmm..... | ||
| Ezblast |
 Hope this helps! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Unless I take the caliper off, that diagram is as good as it gets. The bolt/pin goes under the the spring, so when you look at it on the bike (from the top) the flat spring is on top of the bolt, the longer side holding the pads in place (the curved part of the spring around the bolt/pin). For what its worth, the caliper doesnt need to be disassembled to R & R the front wheel, just unbolted. The front wheel will actually come off the bike with the caliper still bolted on and pads in place (but it wont go back on without unbolting the caliper). | ||
| Buellkat |
Thank you for the diagram, it helped tremendously. My spring was bent into a V shape. Seeing that it should be an S shape, the part fit into place. I love this board and the assistance!!! | ||
| Mabueller |
Does anyone know the Buell part # for the stainless front brake line? TIA | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/110366.html?1129607493 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
or- H0531.B front 2000yr steel brake line is still available! | ||
| Rhtreo |
I've got a flat front tire. I thought I'd take the front wheel off and take it to the dealer for a new tire. I've got a shop manual; are there any tricks I need to know? I see in this blog I may not have take the front caliper off. Any other tips? | ||
| Swampy |
Hey! Welcome to the board Rhtreo! Another Michigan Blaster! All you have to do is remove the pad hanger pin that is under the retainer plug, the plug has a slot in it. Just make sure you have the correct size screw driver, possibly an impact driver and have someone hold it steady for you. Then remove the pin(allen head) and remove the pads. That will give you enough clearance to remove the wheel. What tires are you getting? Also, since you are in Michigan, you could bring the tire to me and I could show you how to mount and balance the tire yourself. My recommendation for tires are the Avon Vyper Stryke, AM63, 110/70/16 front and 140/70/16 rear. Good Luck. Let me know if you want to bring it over. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Dont forget to mention that the Avon 140/70/16 may have clearance issues. Not major, but it will be if it surprises you on the road! | ||
| Swampy |
Ok, I'll also show you how to clearance your swing arm to make the Avon AM63 in 140/70/16 to fit! Sound OK? LOL! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks, Swampy! In the early days of Blasterdom several tires were reported to fit the rear, but it was found out not to be so.I had to pay the 20% restock fee because of that. We currently run track tires at about 33 psi and according to EZ the Avon 140 will rub the swingarm at that pressure. I'm not against the Avon, I just dont want anyone to be surprised! | ||
| Ezblast |
When new, however, break it in with several 100 miles at 30.5 psi front and rear, and some good back roads will break in the tire enough for higher temps - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Rhtreo |
Swampy--Thanks for the info and the generous offer to aid in the repair. If our schedules synch I may take you up on it. Regarding tires, I'm still rather conservative and not ready to make mods to fit an oversize (and probably a better) tire. Currently, I'm thinking of the Cheng Shins Barracudas in the OEM sizes. I haven't looked for a source yet. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Pirelli's in stock sizes are cheap and better that Cheng Shin. Avons would be my 2nd choice, Cheng Shin only if I wanted to go with the 130 rear. The Blast is notorious for locking up the front wheel with inferior tires installed (including the stock Dunlops). I'm not so much concerned with what goes on the back as sliding the rear can be fun, sliding the front however, is not. | ||
| Buellistic |
Which is safer: The front wheel to lock up OR a stoppee ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
The rear has never slid with my riding in the rear except on purpose, now locking up front would be almost as likely with a sticky tire as well? - the locking coming from grabbing breaking/breaking too hard - yes? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No! A hard (or less sticky)front tire will lock up (lose traction) easier under hard braking for the same reason a hard back tire will break traction sooner under hard acceleration. Or for the same reason you want stickier tires for cornering. How many times have you heard over the last 6(?) years that someone lost it because they locked up the front? A 'stoppie' is a very unlikely accidental occurrence on a Blast (as it is on most motorcycles). Unless you're Bubba Blackwell (or really, really, really trying or conditions are 'just right'), its not going to happen. | ||
| Swampy |
The modification to put on the oversized rear is nothing more than clearancing the lower shock bracket. I would go with the Avon AM63 in the larger size, $100 for the pair from Chapparell, and it is soo much better than a stock Dunlop. I have both front and rear slide. The front was the first time I rode it, and was amazed at how much brake there is up front. The rear is a natural thing in the grass, and a pucker thing on wet roads when the deer jump out infront of you! | ||
| Ezblast |
On cold wet winter days I've had all the tires I've owned lock up one time or the other - a lot of times its the top of Market - coldest wettest area in SF - the only other time is hitting oil like fluids on wet pavement while braking - easy correction - let off the brakes just a bit - since you still want to stop - lol - and proceed safely - I've always just attributed it to the SS Braided brake line and Ferrado Comp. and Galfer Pads - the fork brace does a nice job of equalizing forces - so the corrections are usually smooth and done with a light hand - the Dunlop was bad because it followed grooves and was slippery a lot the Avon 52's have the nicest rain characteristics with the Pirrelli and Avon 63 over sized being about the same but they are stickier - though the Avon takes just a bit longer to warm up - lol - not as long as the 52s thank goodness! GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on January 01, 2007) | ||
| Mabueller |
The Vyper Strykes are such a better tire them stock it is amazing. Rhtreo, Do yourself a favor and try the over-sized tires when you upgrade. I am willing to bet you will be happy with this choice. | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Rhtreo trust me do yourself a favor and get rid of the stock dunflops. Even though we dont have a lot of twisties around here, I went with the avon 52's 6000 miles ago. They were much better then stock. This winter I plan on going with the avon 63 oversized. If you want, bring your bike down and I can modify it for you if your schedule doesnt match up with swampy's. I cant do the mounting and balancing yet, but maybe after I see swampys setup in person I will be able to. | ||
| Rhtreo |
Thanks everyone for the replacement tire advice. I've found a local source for the Avons and Pirellis. I haven't made my decision yet as I've yet to get the front wheel off. (No time.) Maybe by the end of next week. Since front tires typically wear at a slower rate, I was planning to replace the front now and match the rear when it needs replacement. The tire dealer suggests I do both now. Is this science or salesmanship? Total mileage: 3500 miles. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A little of both! Its usually recommended that you match tires (brand and style/model) however it is unlikely that you'll experience severe handling problems when doing so on the Blast. At 3500 miles you'll probably need a rear soon enough, so unless your're racing, ride in the rain, or very fast, its up to you. | ||
| Swampy |
Do them both now, the stock rear Dunlop only goes 3500 miles, then your looking for a new one. Your rear tire must have been replaced replaced recently. |
