| Author | Message | ||
     Andychang |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-Blast-Full-Cu stom-Intake_W0QQitemZ130322280820QQcmdZViewItemQQp tZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1e57d0317 4&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 i like the carbon fiber one myself. dan currently does not have only the SuperBoot on ebay. | ||
| Rainman |
Check out the Swamp-man on the Blastard's thread! Go Rob! Hey, I've got your back. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I believe what RLM was saying is that the bad boot destroyed his engine  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
RoysBuell: frames with title can be found. I have a couple (but I'm not yet ready to part with one). | ||
| Crackhead |
I am waiting for Dan to come up with an intake that is tucked under the bike, it would to 2 things. 1. protect the filter from rain 2. get it away from my knee | ||
| Damnut |
Well I broke down and bought a Corbin seat. I just couldn't take the numb ass I got everyday taking the Blast to work & back. It's a 70 mile commute but just enough to annoy the crap out of me. lol The final straw was taking it for the 400 mile round trip to NYC last week. My riding buddy was laughing because of all of the shifting I was doing on the stock seat. He thought I was trying to dance to the music i was listening to. Should be here on Friday, can't wait. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Damnut...the stock seat was my biggest gripe about the bike...I think you will like the Corbin a lot...it made the difference between numbass at 40 miles and being able to ride pretty much all day in comfort on my bike. I will transmit more vibration than the stocker...but it's a good trade-off. | ||
| Prof_stack |
The Corbin seat, depending on your weight, will be quite hard at first. You might be fine with it right away, but if not, give it time and you'll "settle" in to the seat and be comfortable. | ||
| Damnut |
Well I bought it used so I'm hoping that it is broken in a little. I just couldn't take the stock seat anymore. Although I never tried her low seat on the bike, I figured that it wouldn't have made much of a difference. Now I hope that she is able to sit on the bike with the Corbin so that I can sell both seats that I have for the bike and recoup some of the money spent on the Corbin. | ||
| Fast1075 |
The foam is real stiff...at 3,000 plus miles, mine still isn't broken in fully...but it's till a bunch better than stock. | ||
| Andychang |
having been a cyclist for many years, i find that wearing 8 paneled cycling shorts under my jeans are fantastic, even on the stock seat. there's chamois where i need it, and the 8 panels contour to fit my body. but the corbin looks much cooler. | ||
| Patches |
"Well I broke down and bought a Corbin seat." At 250lbs. the Corbin seat is the best Money I ever spent on my Blast. Have done 400+ miles in a day on it. | ||
| Dankno |
Grrr... I can't find the damn cord that connects my phone to my computer so I'm sorry but pics will have to wait... BUT!!! I can give a report on the Jardine exhaust, Aprilia mirrors (From American Sport Bike) and tuber-Buell license plate relocator (also from American Sport Bike.) Long story short... Freakin' awesome! The Mirrors look the part and do a great job of quelling vibration, they still thump around at low revs but once up to speed it is MUCH easier to tell who is behind you and how close they are. Nothing like the "Objects in mirror are not as numerous as they appear." of the stock Mickey Mouse ears. I think the LP relocator gives the tail section a much cleaner look and the family resemblance to the early Buells is perfect IMHO, I just used a couple pieces of scrap angle aluminum to install it, works great so far. OH! I forgot to mention the rear turn indicators! I found a set of LED amber side markers at my local Autozone, they are not DOT legal, but I doubt anyone really cares (read: can tell) and they use 3m double stick-em adhesive tape for mounting. They really cleaned up the rear end, I just stuck them to the side of the plastic tail section, looks like they could be factory, and no one (as far as I know... Knock on wood) has been surprised when I change lanes in traffic. Lastly, I re-jetted using the Dynojet kit I bought months ago using the #155 jet and installed the Jardine head pipe and muffler. After a little carb issue (thanks again Erik) I got her up and running and have to say that of all the money I have spent, the exhaust makes the bike. The sound is almost exactly like a big-bore four-stroke dirtbike or quad. Coming from an off-road background the exhaust note is absolutely intoxicating, it's pure thumper with just a hint of Harley mixed in. As far as power, I think I lost a little torque off idle, could be just too rich, but the midrange is MUCH stronger. I love it. While I was at it, I changed the oil and filter (Love the process by the way, couldn't be easier, I used Mobile 1 synthetic for V-Twins, and Mobile 1, respectively) and adjusted the clutch cable, all very easy with the service manual and Badweb archives. Will do a Primary fluid change with the same lube and clutch adjustment soon. Also on the to-do list, I want to loose the paper element air filter for a stack pre-filter (I think I'll use the stock airbox, just wrap the existing EZ modded venturi, I kinda like the look.) an irridium spark plug, and a set of Pirellis. Will get pics up as promised ASAP. | ||
| Ezblast |
I think the best airbox mod I've seen is the one I did for Scott - I took off the side of the filter wall facing the carb, rerouted the epa lines, no interior filter, with the pre-filter clamped to the outer airbox venturi. This is ideal in many ways, the filter being very protected. Tire patch for the hole. EZ | ||
| Milt |
"I think the best airbox mod I've seen is the one I did for Scott" EZ, could you explain this a little further? Another modification suggested on this site says to remove the venturi altogether. why did Buell engineers put it there in the first place ? | ||
| Ezblast |
On your jet kit I would go to 175 - I talked to those guys for a long bit a couple months ago to make heads and tails of their kit, the jetting kit on the Tubers goes up not down, reason theirs goes down on the Blast is because the items they used to test on the Blast actually performed worse - a generic K&N which strangled the intake and the Kerker exhaust which actually performed worse than stock breathing wise, still issued more power though. Those are the items they tested, and built their instructions off of. The stuff we are using today actually breaths better, and so you should go up in your jetting, check their on site instructions for tubers, thats what one should be doing with the kits - lol. Now on the airbox mod - the idea has always been about maximum breathing, if you open up the interior, cutting out the filter wall facing the carb and take away the solid filter restriction, using the pre-filter on the airbox's venturi, the cover practically guarding the filter from most harm that could ever happen. Scott likes the airbox - keeps it stealth for all the other mods he does have. Carb, exhaust, etc. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
So a pre-filter and K&N in the airbox is better than just the K&N? Am I reading that wrong? Also I repacked my V&H exhaust, Holy awesome sound and power Batman! Definitely recommend doing it if you haven't already. I can write up a how-to if anyone is interested. | ||
| Dankno |
Good to know EZ, thanks. I'll try it out and see how it does... It's kind of funny, my little bro only listened to the bike and said that he'd go back to the jet I had before (ironically, a 175.) The kid is a freakin' mechanical prodigy, if I can touch something, manipulate it, listen to it, and stare at it long enough eventually I can figure out what is going on inside, he only needs to be near it. Good genes in my family I suppose... Anyway, I think the airbox EZ is describing is similar to what I have spinning in my head. On the left side (as you sit on the bike) remove the plastic airbox "scoop." Underneath, there is the loud end of a trumpet looking piece, this is the airbox venturi. I want to wrap that in a pre-filter similar in fashion to what many have done to a tuber-Buell velocity stack and remove the air filter altogether. My logic is that this will provide a constant mass of stable, clean, fast air, and I wont loose any carb bracing or that cool-sleeper look that all that dark plastic offers. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - thats about right, though you could leave the scoop for protection, take out the inner filter wall facing the carb and your good. Very stealth, very good breathing, can still do a knee and squeeze, Super boot still recommended, for optimum long term protection. A pre-filter alone, nothing in the air box but air and plenty of it! EZ | ||
| Dankno |
That's exactly what I had planned... Great minds huh? I once left the scoop/breadbox/whatever, off because I just wanted to ride and was tired of spinning wrenches. However, like the flyscreen, I found myself reinstalling it. It just suits the bike better I think. Cool, thanks for the unintentional reassurance EZ. Will let everyone know how it goes when "done." | ||
| Defined |
I just got an 09 Blast a few days ago. It's my first bike, minus some dirt bikes I had about 13yrs ago. I'll say one thing, the clutch is so different that I killed it a handful of times on my first "offical" ride. I do have a few questions and thought I might be able to get some answers. I've been sneaking peeks at the posts and threads here and decided it was time to join the community. Anyway; the questions: 1. When I first start the idle is high *Due to the choke* Then after about 2 minutes it goes down to a nice, calm pace. The problem is, after I shift into 1st and head out the next stop sign the engine never comes back "down" to that calm state. it's almost as if the choke is back on again. Does the choke "re-choke" itself after it's warmed up? Say after it's been killed? 2. Shifting issues, more so, from 1st to 2nd; is it that 2nd is that low? When I shift into 2nd I have to treat it as if it's 1st leaving the clutch out very slowly or the bike will jump/lurk forward. However froms 2nd to 3rd it's smooth. Now my bike only has 50miles on it *only had 9 at he dealer* so I don't know if i'm getting use to it still, it has problems, or it's just tight. Any INFO you guys give me I'll apprciate so very much. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't shift to second till 30 mph. It takes about 10 minutes for the auto choke to work itself off. I always try to keep things smooth and easy for that first 10 min.s of riding, then have fun warming her up the rest. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Its branny new - never mind me - you have to do the MFGR suggested method, feed lots of oil, and enjoy, the miles will go by quick enough - do one service at 500, then again at a 1000. EZ | ||
| Andychang |
Low, deep, throaty roar. Response time cut by one half. Buell Blast? No. Buell Beast. Forgive my asynchronous haiku there, but I just picked up the Blast after having the following work done to it: 1) Jardine RT-One Exhaust system install with quiet module insert 2) Rejet to 45/175 3) Replace OEM spark plug with the NGK Ir DCPR9EIX plug 4) Shimmed carb needle to 0.065in in conjunction with drilling the slide. The dealer did step 4 instead of shimming to .050 as recommended by this forum because they couldn't find any washers that fit the bill exactly. EZ, if you're inclined, can you give a rundown of how that works? Not that it matters too much, because the bike is a beast now. ~33mph in 1st, ~53mph in 2nd, and that initial hesitation is gone. Still tops out at around 80mph in 4th gear, but it definitely takes less time to get to that stage. A quick word about the QMI if you're planning on getting one: that deep rumble is attenuated, but the tradeoff is the addition of a small vibration/hum, especially when cracking the throttle. Even with ear plugs I could hear the hum, but it's by no means unpleasant - it's just different. And don't get me wrong - the exhaust is still LOUD even with the QMI. I got a good taste of it in my parking garage without my ear plugs, and it was like sweet rumbly music to my ears. Somewhere in the rejet process I noticed that whatever adjustments were made - they definitely have noticeably decreased the amount of vibration at slow speeds/low rpms. Extremely happy with the way that it runs now. Will post my stock exhaust system for sale on the classified section | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
Cool Andy.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Welcome to the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Andychang |
Defined: +1 on what EZ said. Somewhere in the manual it gives you all those tidbits of info like don't lug the engine, don't run engine at the same RPM too long, don't ride at the same speed for too long, shift into 2nd at 15mph, blah blah blah. Not sure about that lurch you're referring to from 1st to 2nd, but I definitely experienced that going from a stop at a light letting the clutch out because I wasn't used to riding. I feel like as long as you're already warmed up and you kill the engine inadvertently, you should be fine unless you sit there for 5 - 10 minutes on a chilly day. That's from my MSF rider's course experience that I took over a cold weekend in April. Enjoy the ride - I'm probably one of the newest (?) regulars to this forum with only 700 miles under my belt on a 2006 Blast I got that was used for a RE course, and I like it more every time I ride. | ||
| Defined |
EZ and Andy - Thanks for the info; I guess that since this is my first bike I want to make sure that I'm not doing damage to the engine while riding and "getting" use to things. I've not dropped it, nor had any big problems minus my very first day when I killed it about 20times *sigh* Letting the clutch out WAY to fast can do that. Getting better and in 3.5days already put 100miles on it! | ||
| Ezblast |
I believe what RLM was saying is that the bad boot destroyed his engine I could see that happening - over 3/4s of the time recommended plugs for the Blast by Plug Vendors is too hot - equivalent to either 7 or 8 dcpr range - not the needed 9dcpr heat range which is equal to the 10R12A heat range or Iridium 27 heat range - every Buell engine made today, Sportsters, and the Street Rod use this plug heat configuration - period. Yes the 1125 engines as well. - anyway a too hot plug, a torn boot, a totally stock carb, with a Vance & Hines exhaust or stock on a real hot day, use ethonal gas - even supreme - all of these could together make that happen - have you running too lean, for too long a period - wheh - melt down - that boot can sometimes be the final straw. Thats why I say change it regularly, inspect, etc. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Sure - you take 2 #4 washers - sand one down so that together you get close to/up to 0.05. EZ |
