G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Archive through May 10, 2013 » 515 & Bigger Big Bore kit install » 600cc » 600cc winter upgrade info wanted « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

im looking for more power for next summer, and while its cold and rainy for two months here in california (hahaha suckers...) i'd like to tear the bike down and do some mods.

goals:
faster, torqier, better throttle response, with little sacrafice to mpg or drivability.

i'd like to go with the 600cc kit,
set of cams (dont know what, u tell me)

and ive been thinking about upgrading to a mikuni carb (somethign will have to be done with the fuel to make up for the extra cc)

i'd also like to do a few engine heat/lube/oil shedding coatings while im in there. and a diy port and polish, and gasket match intake manifold (i noticed when i had the carb off to change the boot the intake manifold and head dont match up very well at all)



also ive heard there is a 6spd kit, but havent been able to find it. i dont mind topping out at ~100mph, but the thing that bugs me is how fast the engine is winding on the highway, any way to lower the rpm?

(Message edited by the4ork on August 06, 2009)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Crackhead
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

check out

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/
or
http://www.revperf.com/
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you a professional mechanic, or had a world of experiance tearing stuff down and putting back together? 515cc kit is the way to go, cam - don't go over 580 for the street, replace oil pump pinion gear with pro series as well, make sure of springs capable of 600 lift, though I would go even a bit higher probably 650(because of the degradation percentage that happens between 5000 to 15,000 miles), replace guides and seals with better units, adjustable ti pushrods, If you don't mind fussing with a manual choke and a few dyno runs for tunning - no biggie - then the Mikuni HSR 42 Spigot, gas miliage will drop to around 45 to 50 mpg - lol
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cool looks like a 6spd kit at revperf, no price... must be expensive. i heard it was $600...

also another question... HAS ANYONE TRIED THE 600CC KIT???????????? because after extensive searching all i could find were people BSing about it. seemed like the same people over and over but nobody said... 'yeah ive been driving around on the 600cc kit so far and my impressions are this:'

so anyone? bueller?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes EZ, ive been building turbocharged h20 volkswagens since highschool, and am an F16 mechanic with lots of access to machine tools at work.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i really dont want to mess with choke, but what would the performance and drivability and mpg difference between a reworked stock carb and the mikuni 42?

ive never seen anything between a 515 and 600? where is said kit?

its been said the difference between the 600 and the 515 is 3-4hp, but how much of that would you actually feel in your butt dyno? because in a car that would be almost un-noticed

stock is what 37hp? what are we talking in terms of power with the other kits? realistically how much more pep would the bike really have?


im just wondering weather if its worth it for me to put 2g's in the bike, or sell it and put those 2g's in getting an xb
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh God - your going to have fun! Yes - about twenty or so have done the 600cc, but once you bore to that, you can't go back, its like for longevity sake you'd have to buy a second cyl., so if the company goes under, you can still rebuild, with the 515cc you can always go back to stock jug and hi-comp, or stock or low comp, if serious nitro/turbo applications happening. See what I'm saying? the HP difference between the two maxed out almost equally is not that much - between 3 and 5 hp. We are talking street motors, not racing or LSR type. That 6 speed is a Baker unit and it costs 2 g - I'm just getting the drum, unless I find a deal on one - half price I'd pay, since a stocker would be less than 1/2 again.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's at the crank hp - at the wheel is 26hp - so basically that gets you close to double your hp - not bad - depends a lot on intake and exhaust as well - the freer breathing the better.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what would a 515 yield me with a nice cam and reworked ignition/carb?50-55hp?

also, what exactly are the options for ignition, i vaguely remember seing something about raising the rev limiter or some kind of upgrade?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 05:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

40 to 50 hp, right now Erik is aftermarket ignition guy, though,
http://www.revperf.com/Products/ignition.html
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model_1005.html
I would use their new mini-coil -
Set to 8000 rpms and enjoy.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fast1075
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have several options:

(a) Bore kit...either the 515 or the 600 kit...the 600 kit requires complete engine disassembly and the case bored to fit the larger sleeve...even if you do that, you can still put a stock size or 515 cylinder back on in the future. I recommend iron liner over the nikasil.

(b) Cams: B-50 or B-70...50 with small bore, 70 with large bore..or larger yet is possible...N9??

(c) Head: Rework stock head including port and valve guide work...strongly suggest stainless valves...good springs, roller rockers.

You can use an XB9 head but if you do, you need a matching piston because the combustion chambers are vastly different. and you need an aftermarket hanger bracket.

(d) Drivetrain: The Baker transmission is mega expensive...like 2500 bux...but the baker drum kit for the stock trans is well worth the money...if you pull the trans apart, have the gears magnafluxed and back-cut.

The primary chain, engine sprocket and COMPLETE primary cover from an early XB12 engine will lower the engine rpm by 500 or so...but the gearing will end up higher and the ratios spread a bit...but the speedo will still read correctly with the stock belt and drive sprockets...look up Buellistic on these forums, he has done that to his Blast.

(e) Ignition: Daytona TwinTek..fully adjustable...set max rev limit at 7500.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This thread has been moved to the Thumper Knowledge Vault or:
THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » 515 & Bigger Big Bore kit install » 600cc » 600cc winter upgrade info wanted
(follow the trail of topics).
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"im just wondering weather if its worth it for me to put 2g's in the bike, or sell it and put those 2g's in getting an xb" If you're already asking that question, I'd consider getting an XB. I always ask this question when somebody's looking to drop a G or 2 into their Blast.
Hopping up a Blast is a labour of love. The XB is a much more bike for the money and I know I have at least the price of a used XB in one Blast and EZ probably has the price a new XB in one of his.

If you're going to spend the money on a kit and can split the case, do the 600. I wouldnt waste money on a 515 (and considering the 515's I've seen fail in a very short span of time, I wouldn't). Do the 600 or build a 'stock' bore engine.

IMHO.The XB top end is the only way to go. You're already buying a piston, so that isnt any extra $$ spent. The stock engine bracket can be modified for the XB head or you can buy one (mine hasnt failed yet). You'll also need to fabricate a middle tie bar bracket-easy to do and my simple angle iron bracket doesnt show any signs of fatigue.
XB combustion chamber is more efficient and can actually give you better gas mileage. Besides some very minor modifications to engine mounts and timing cup, XB cams, piston, cylinder and head "bolt right on". They also offer more fin area for better cooling. XB comes in a 600 to and there is likely more info on that swap, than in the Blast swap. The best point, is that an XB top end will give you B70 type spec cams, higher compression and a 7500rpm rev limit all from FACTORY STOCK parts.

Spend the money on an ignition rather than a carb. The carb on the Blast can feed a 1450cc big twin, it has no problem feeding the Blast. Install a better ignition and you'll notice a difference right away. I do not know if the Twin Tech ignition utilizes the stock carb 'choke'. I believe it does, but Twin Tech can tell you for sure. When you have extra money go ahead and try a Mikuni. I'm not a big fan of the auto choke in that you never really know if its all the way off, good way to waste a cylinder.

Get used to the engine revving high. Building a 'stump puller' out of a Blast is a real waste of time. Do you want performance or pull a trailer? Add an extra 1000 rpms to the redline and you'll love how it performs!
If you do want a stump puller anything more than B50 cams will put you in the wrong direction. B70's or stock XB/SE XL'04 cams are still streetable, but you start to lose the bottom end torque. More cam than that and you're looking at a race engine-high revs, no low end torque.

Lastly, have a plan. Some mods lend themselves to future performance mods, others dont. Be realistic-are you going to keep the Blast or will you be 'moving on' soon.

Again-my opinion!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MY big question is: are there any factory stock parts that can be used for a big bore kit (real big bore, not the 515)? Within reason-anything can be made to work, but often its not practical.
For me that would be a better way to go rather than aftermarket. Parts will always be available for factory.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Monday, August 10, 2009 - 02:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

great info guys!

i think im going to upgrade to a bigger bike next summer but in the mean time i think im going to tinker with the blast. sticking with the stock bore size i think will be a smart move for the wallet.

but what are some things i can do without major downtime (taking the motor out or major modifications)??

ignition seems like a great upgrade, i still need to do a rejet/exhaust/intake (start with those 3 first)

i think im definately going to do a whole bike upgrade, i'd like to stay with a good ol made in the usa bike, but havent decided fully
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Know the feeling.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 01:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Without major downtime:
Exhaust (a must before you do anything else).
Air filter/air box.
Cams-B50's or Pro Series are the only 'bolt right in' cams.
Ignition.

Cylinder piston and head can be done in a weekend and the engine does not need to be removed. If you go to adjustable pushrods and tubes you can change cams at will (very easily). Otherwise it entails rockerbox removal (including tank,etc).

Heads have been available on e-bay lately-good for a core so you can just switch them out and cylinders (XB, XL or P3) are also available. Or start collecting XB top end parts ; )
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swapping out the springs, guides and seals on a head doesn't take that much time and you have the means to clean it up to flow a bit better as well, then instead of the B-50, step to the B-70 at the same price, the pro-series oil gear, and a hi-comp piston with total seal rings would be good, the ignition to raise the rpms makes things nicer, and is programmable for tuning purposes. A free flowing exhaust and intake finish this off nicely - with proper jetting and needle shimming of course.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can even just grind down the stock valve guides for cam clearance or just even change the valve springs for added rpms. So many ways to go. My money's always on an increased rpm limit. It makes the bike so much nicer to ride : )

It will be up to you though to wade through EZ and my obsessive Blast mod thoughts and decide what you want. We can take a simple spark plug change and turn it into a full rebuild.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2009 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Channeling my best John Wayne - "A mans got to do what a man's got to do."
Wheres that spark plug?! Though the plug I use now may never need changing, it may outlive the life of the bike - so they say.
However, a hot plug can equal a rebuild as well. lol
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The4ork
Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my old man put a v&h on his bike, it was exactly as fast as mine before and its still just as fast : ( im dissapointed. was going to buy one but its not any faster

but after riding his bike, it seems much more drivable with way better throttle response. dunno if the throttle response is worth the money tho lol

where can i get all of these mods? and how much are they running?
piston, ignition?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 01:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The V&H is eh - 300 each about - lol - various vendors - shop around.
EZ
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exhaust $200-$350
Cams: $100-$300
Ignition: $300
Piston: $140-$200
XB head complete: $370
XB Piston and cylinder: $250
Worked Blast head:$400-$850
www.revperf.com
www.cycle-rama.com
our sponsors:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/17143.html
It pays to shop around and there are ways to cut corners!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See also the above posted links!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bravo!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reuel
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To get the 1200CC*.5 size, can I get the front half of an XB12, and do I have to get the crank as well? Starting to think about this stuff again ...

(Message edited by reuel on August 23, 2009)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You would get the 9's top end, to get the 12 size you would need their stroke.
EZ
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration