| Author | Message | ||
     Rockstarblast1 |
well honestly i cant figure itout. its like THE stupidest thing iv ever seen. iv worked on brakes a billion times and NEVER EVER EVER had this problem. and i have no clue where else to go other then the dealer and get it in the ass dry without any lube when they hand me the bill. | ||
| Ezblast |
It won't be too bad in Ohio - TG you don't live in the Bay Area,CA or NYNY - there are not a lot of negatives floating around about any Ohio dealerships, wouldn't surprise me though to hear that they are still pricey - lol - that would drive me nuts - I'd end up getting new parts all around - and start fresh - secure in the thought that the new parts are good - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
RSB1: DONT waste your money. I have been ASE certified for brakes. Done it professionally for years. I've never run into a brake problem this bad. You are not alone! I could send you a complete set of good parts and you'd still be in the same boat. The dealer will go through the same thing as you. Probably make you replace parts needlessly and lighten your wallet considerably. Its a very simple system. The only possible problem I see is that when you 'pumped' up the brakes you ran the master cylinder piston down into an unused and corroded part of the master and ruined the seal. I'm doubtful, especially if you have a solid lever albeit, very 'low'. Start over. New recommended fluid. Gravity bleed the system (master cover off) without pumping (you may need to use the lever once or twice to get it moving-avoid if possible) for a couple hours, at least. Run a hose from the bleeder into a clear container into brake fluid (always keep the hose submerged in the brake fluid). Tap the caliper with a plastic mallet to dislodge any bubbles. Close it up and hopefully you still have the minimal lever. Slowly (and dont use full travel) pump up the brake. Then push the pads/piston back into the caliper (bleeder closed). Once again slowly pump up the brake. Done! Avoid using full lever travel (although its too late now). Now might be the time to replace the front line with the braided steel line. Its a gamble as you'll need new washers too. Need brake pads? | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
i dont think i need pads?? and how much for a steel braidedline for the front? you have one you can sell me? | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
go buy a mighty vac from auto zone for 30 bucks and you will be done in 15 minutes. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PT#H0531.B lists for $34 (H0531.TB is the rubber line. Dont let them sell you this one). Sorry, I already used my spare! A brake/hydrolic line supply place (usually outfitting the racers) should be able to make one up for you also, but you'll need to take the old one in. Twisty: Have you had this brake problem on a Blast? I'm not saying the Mighty Vac wont solve the problem, but if you havent tried it on a Blast, then the $30 is a gamble. (also clean the Mighty Vac well before you put it away or you'll be buying another one!) Seriously, no one can ever believe its this much of a problem. If the Mighty Vac will actually get it done in 15 minutes, then it'd be worth the money. There are instances where the front brake isnt a problem, but... | ||
| Swampy |
I would rebuild the master cylinder at this point. | ||
| Ezblast |
I'd buy a new one - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Or go to the box, pull another master out...LOL! I've had this problem on a near new Blast, so I'm doubtful its the master (unless it got ruined as I mentioned above-still doubtful). | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
yes i just replaced the front line and couldn't get a lever to save my life. tried everything . even let it sit overnight . so in the morning i got a mighty vac and was really done in 15. best tool iv ever bought | ||
| Ezblast |
Nice! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem. taf?itemnumber=38053 EZ | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
went to auto zone no such thing as a mighty vac they say! lol wtf i hate that place the ppl there know just as much about cars as the employees next door at mc donalds! lol any who i took a ride over to harbor freight and got what ez posted up. (well similar) and it kinda worked! i have about 1/2 to 3/4 of my lever back! so im guessing thats as good as it gets? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It'll probably still get better with time. If it doesnt hit the handlebar under full squeeze, your fine (granted you could probably squeeze it hard enough to do so, but theres only a .01% chance you'll need that-mountains-long steep grade) Good news on the Mighty Vac! Its Mighty Vac to save the daaay! not sure you younger fellers would know that tune! | ||
| Ezblast |
Mighty Mouse and Underdog era - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 29, 2008) | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
i bought mine from autozone. used it when i converted to dot 5. i'v got full lever back. i just kept sucking through about 3 oz at a time. no tapping needed. did stiffen a lil over time. havent re bled since. | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
what are the benifits of useing dot 5 instead of 4 (iv noticed alot of dot 4 brake fluids are also dot 3 safe) | ||
| Reuel |
If I remember correctly, DOT5 is much better at handling heat. If you do a lot of racing to include lots of brake usage, or just go down the sides of mountains a lot, it could be better. On the other hand, it doesn't absorm moisture like DOT 4 does, so you'll be changing your fluid more frequently if you don't want corrosion inside your brake system. That's just my remembering... | ||
| Reuel |
Oh--last night, I finally changed my brake fluid with synthetic DOT4. I forgot to do it this Spring when I first decided it was time to change everything. Seems my front lever is tighter now, but at the same time, it seems I have to squeeze a little harder to make a quick stop. Maybe I'm halucinating, though. Other things feel funny too ... | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
bet-ya urs feels better then mine!!! lmao haha that didnt sound right.... ur brake lever! | ||
| Ezblast |
 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Good synopsis Reuel. Mostly I use it because it wont damage paint. You can also use it on your (car) tires or almost any other kind of rubber, like Armour All! | ||
| Reuel |
I learned it from this board a few years ago when I had the same question. Might have been you who told me then, but I'm not sure. | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
ok so update. i still dont have full travel and i noticed today on the little sight thingy on master cly. that theres a little air bubble stuck to it! lol i think im gunna try to pop it with a needle, idk maybe not i tapped it and nothin. i need to bleed again.. or just call it what it is and say forget it because i haveno issue stoping..... lol | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Leave it alone! | ||
| Reuel |
It will eventually work its way out. If you go to high speeds, then quickly stop a few times, it might heat things up enough to expand any bubbles in the line, allowing them to float free. My site glass had a bubble in it for several years. | ||
| Robi |
I am at about 2,500 miles. Pads are good, no problems stopping. Just need to add some fluid I think. Rear res. is good, front is just at the "low" mark. Do I need to add? If so, do I need to go through this bleeding? Can I just top off? -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------- What "brand" of fluid should I get? -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------- HOw much should I plan on buying, using? (if I need to bleed) -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------- On Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007, Joey said, "I mostly empty the master cylinder, then start adding new fluid before I start getting air. That keeps me from going through the nearly impossible bleeding job..." Is this a legitimate method? | ||
| Ezblast |
Top off. EZ | ||
| Robi |
I messed up. I haven't yet reached 2,500 miles SINCE I bought the bike last year. Total miles is 11,000. Per manual, I should change every 2 years. Inspect every 5,000 miles. EZ - does this change your answer? Should I assume it may not have been changed as it is a 2001? Or if no problems, top off? If just top off? Just any DOT 4? How do I tell what's in it? Different color? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Should you change the fluid-yes. Few do however. I'd do one at a time. Do the rear, then when you know its back to normal, do the front. The front is notorious for not 'bleeding back up'. But if all you do is drain the fluid and keep an eye on it so the reservoir doesnt go completely dry, you should be okay. Its DOT 4 and will say so on the master cylinder cover. | ||
| Reuel |
I'm in the habit of doing it every spring. I pump it out most of the way, put new stuff in before I suck air, and repeat until I see clear fluid coming out the other end for at least 6 pumps. |
