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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 10:54 pm: |
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Duh! ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/beater.gif) |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 12:54 am: |
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Change two - that way your twice as sure that your problem is solved! EZ |
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Ylwblast03
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 07:26 am: |
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Accidentally watched five minutes of the movie "Maid in Manhattan" before realizing what it was. DAS BOOT! ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/mad.gif) |
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Indybuell
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 12:34 pm: |
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I, as many others on this board can probably vouch, the superboot is the answer we have been looking for. Great design Dan! Just be sure to not overtighten it. |
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Krjoseph
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 12:37 pm: |
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Good point. BTW Dan, do you have a torque spec that you've come up with for the superboot? |
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Roysbuell
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
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Hmmm...didn't even think of that I always tighten things by feel unless its a manifold or something very critical. My superboot should be coming in today. |
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Reuel
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 05:48 pm: |
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Those times that it isn't the boot, a bottle of HEET or similar has been my fix. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 06:05 pm: |
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Hey Ed, I started using nylock nuts i think the ones i sent you didn't have them so you just snug them down so the clamp is just pulled all together an you feel it starting to get tight is all i do. It's only a 1/4x20 SS allenhead so it's not going to take much torque anyway. An watch to keep the bolt centered in the clamp when tighting it an that is it. Was Dan's answer to the torque value question. EZ |
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Krjoseph
| Posted on Friday, April 03, 2009 - 11:19 pm: |
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Thanks. Mine has the nylock nut, so I'm good. |
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Reuel
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 12:20 pm: |
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Who knows the secret to removing the rear brake disc bolts? I twisted both ends of my torx wrench while the bolts just sat there and laughed at me. Do I have to go Dremel on them or what? |
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Roysbuell
| Posted on Sunday, April 05, 2009 - 10:04 pm: |
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I won't Dremel until all else fails. I would try heating them a bit and cooling them with WD-40 then getting a torx bit socket type and tapping it with a hammer a few times to break the bond and maybe another squirt of WD-40 before trying to loosen them again. But then again I use this for stubborn bolts in disassembling heavy equipment it might be wrong for this. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 01:09 am: |
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Its what I would do as well. - lol EZ |
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Thumpe
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 12:37 pm: |
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Concur and thanks EZ! |
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Damnut
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 03:26 pm: |
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in case anyone is looking for a bra for their Blast, Buell of Bloomingtom has 3 left in stock @ 39.99 each. I just ordered a set (last set) of axle covers and a bra for my Blast. Just thought I would throw it out there......... They are a sponsor: Buell of Bloomington Indiana's Leading Buell Dealer 522 West Gourley Pike Bloomington, Indiana 47404 812-333-8300 800-667-7939 |
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Cdale_sam
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 05:13 pm: |
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can any one help guide me as to why I can not get my plate to fit under my dentent roller arm I want to get this back ride . thank you |
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Swampy
| Posted on Monday, April 06, 2009 - 11:52 pm: |
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Are the detent pins in correctly? |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 01:31 am: |
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All pins should be the same length in neutral - gently tap back in with a drop of red locktite at pins base, then shift to 5th for the shift pawl adjustment, use the correct size drill bit. EZ |
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Cdale_sam
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 09:50 am: |
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Thanks for the quick response the problem I am having is just with the plate it has a littler bend in it it wont fit in all the way so i can get my bolt to hold the dentent arm down the manuel showes it going in before the case is closed up .I realy dont want to open it up again . Thank ez and swampy |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 01:15 pm: |
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Get a new plate - the old one is probably tweeked. The pins have to be the same length in neutral. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 07, 2009) |
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Cdale_sam
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 08:18 pm: |
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Thank you ez I will try that |
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Roysbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, April 07, 2009 - 09:12 pm: |
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Today I did the stock airbox mod detailed by EZ. Looks good. Will try bike out tomorrow. |
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Rex
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 12:29 am: |
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question. I was at the AZ AsBn meeting last night. Wayne mentioned that there was a partially finished Buell Blast in an XB frame for sale? is it still listed somewhere on badweb? REX |
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Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 07:10 am: |
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check the general classifieds |
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Awf_hand
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 08:10 am: |
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Well, I made a new personal best this morning. I rode the bike to work in a balmy 21deg. That's Fahrenheit degrees BTW. I have a question about rejetting of the idle: What problems is this supposed to fix? I know what I've read, but what has been the applied experience? ______________________ Firing order: 1 |
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Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 08:28 am: |
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Do it in the snow. Then we can talk. The Blast runs a bit on the lean side. If you do anything that frees up air flow, it gets leaner. Bigger jets allow more fuel into the mix, restoring lost power. Some push it past ideal and into the rich side. That, to a point, adds more power. (Message edited by Reuel on April 08, 2009) |
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Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 11:17 am: |
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Also I would like to point out that being able to adjust the Idle air mixture screw will allow you to enrichen the idle circuit enhancing the cold starting and cold idling and off idle running on the Blast. This is really important when the air is cold-colder as the cold air is more dense then warm air and so cold requires more fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio correct. I have a friend that doesn't clean his carbs or use a fuel stablizer in his snowmobile and every year he has to replace a piston. He likes to run his sled when it is super cold out because he says it runs so much "crisper" LOL. I say quick fried to a crackly crunch. I have heard sleds fry before, it sounds like a high pitched ringing almost a chirping wirring sound. |
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Rex
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 01:43 pm: |
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I checked the general classifieds , but could not find anyone wanting to sell a blast xb project. No problem. Just checking. REX |
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Awf_hand
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 03:33 pm: |
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Although it is not a Buell, you all should still should appreciate this. http://www.fox6now.com/news/witi-090405-harley-mil lion-mile-vid,0,2686032.worldnowvideo Dave was a lot cleaner-cut when he was my Senator. He's quite a dynamo. I've met him more than a few times and been impressed more than that. _______________________ Firing order: 1 |
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Roysbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 07:33 pm: |
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I messed up! Im not sure what its called but inside the airbox the piece that bolts with 3 allen screws... Well I cracked it tightening the bolts. Its not too bad but, should I order a new one? or is this piece very critical? |
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Krjoseph
| Posted on Wednesday, April 08, 2009 - 09:41 pm: |
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I'm guessing you mean the venturi ring that bolts the airbox to the carb. I'd replace it, it could affect the seal and mess with the air flow to the carb. However, it is not uncommon that they break with too much torque on the bolts. Mine was like that when I got my Blast. Make sure the seal is OK, but you should be able to ride if not damaged to bad, but replace it when you can, it's a $3 part. Buy two in case you do it again. And while your at it, might as well buy a spare boot. |