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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tank.
EZ
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Dk1090
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alright guys. New symptom for not starting. I checked the jets, cleaned the bowl and changed the boot. It still will only start when I spray starting fluid in it. Even then it will only stay started for a second. I know it sparks so are there any other opinions.
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Indybuell
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still sounds like a carb issue of some kind to me. Like its still not getting enough fuel. Where is the idle screw?
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Disable your clutch safety - flip middle diode; disable kick stand - twist wires together; check plug for fouling and plug wire for connection on both sides.
EZ
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Dk1090
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree I am pretty sure it is a fuel dilvery issue. But I guess it could be bad spark, the only problem with that is why does it fire up after the starter fluid is sprayed in there, must be some kind of spark.
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Krjoseph
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could it be the ignition? When mine went bad, it would start but only run a very short time, then die.
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Dk1090
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I thought about that. But that is a pretty pricey fix, I'm afraid that would send me into buying a whole new bike. So, I'm trying to rule out everything before that.
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Jerzydevil
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check to see that the air mix screw is still there. Mine vibrated out and i was having the same running probs.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ignitions are not that much - for just the black box and wire - lol - If you marked where the old one was exactly - it would be unplug, then plug in new, play. Just a tad more to it than that, but not much.
EZ
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Scouty
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, i'm not sure if this is where I post my question. I was wondering, I need to lift the wifes blast to drop the forks (1 blown. can the engine and mounts support the weight if I remove the exhaust and lift the bike, or should I just strap the bars and lift it from my rafters??
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you still have the stock exhaust it will more than support the weight of the bike. Or the engine and mounts will support the bike. Or hang it from the rafters.
DO NOT loose the snap ring that holds in the spring seats/stops. They are impossible to buy and fly away easily.




Ignition module is $125 for the old version pt#32687-00Y. Updated version #32687-00YA is $175 (make sure you dont pay $175 for the $125 unit)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awf Hand: You dont have to remove the tank to remove the spark plug. However, if you've never done it, it might be easier/safer that way.
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Awf_hand
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks GH.

I checked it out last night. I believe that I can get a socket on there and snap my 8-ball ratchet onto it. I'd like to see what other tools could/would be needed for this, as I'm assembling a tool kit for a couple of long trips this summer and don't want to be somewhere wishing for one more tool. The kit grows...

Second on the stock exhaust holding up the bike. I went off a driveway edge once and found that the bike stopped immediately with the front wheel off the ground. Add 190# to the bike's weight and the exhaust holds that up too with no damage other than muffler paint.
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Scouty
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, it has a V&H pipe. so i probably will need to take off the pipe, or lift it from the triple tree
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Naw - a regular scissors jack will lift it - plenty of room!
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dont take off the pipe. I made a wood stand from 2x4s that fits next to the pipe (by the front mount). Then I eventually bought a front stand which makes things much easier to work on.
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Glenna
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am having trouble with the starting system with this Blast. I have tested all fuses and at the starter button for voltage and it seems ok. Any ideas what I can look for next? It doesn't even click. All lights come on, turn signals and all, just no sign of life when I press the start button. Just replaced the battery as well.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome Glenna!

I'm not trying to joke around, but is the "run" on/off switch turned to on? I have to ask.

I rarely use that thing on any bike, and when it gets turned "off", it freaks me out a little...until I realize the problem!
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your grounds and safety switches - kickstand and clutch.
EZ
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Glenna
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ground has been checked, kickstand safety switch has been checked, on/off is on. Again all signal flow has been checked other than what is hard to get to without removing hard parts. I don't have a manual therefore cannot check for what the book might say under trouble shooting. I left off tracking voltage after the start button, it has voltage 12.5 after the button.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 12:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

plug wire tight?
EZ
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Thumpe
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you test the start button itself to make sure it's good?
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Glenna
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everything electrical has been checked and is good. My husband has some really top notch test meters and everything shows that its OK. It just won't click or crank or anything. He checked all power flow and it looks good. This is such a puzzle.
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Crackhead
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i am not totaly familuar with the blast electrical system yet. but there should be a starter relay just before or on the end of the starter. it sounds like your is stuck/ broken. find it and tap on it. it might just be stuck from storage all winter.
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a starter relay/solenoid on the starter. One big(power) wire in directly from the battery, one smaller trigger wire controlling things.

Not having studied for the exam I would say there is a relay under the seat to take the real low amp signal from the starter switch on the handle bars, to control the smaller trigger wire on the starter. Just guessing....

So to test the starter jump a hot wire to the smaller wire on the starter.
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Longranger
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 01:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello you BLASTARDS. Happy spring! Time to warm up the chicken strips! GAS AND GO GAS AND GO! Wish I had a bigger tank. Looking for a cheap set of risers or other options for a set of $10.00 dollar drag bars? Any ideas? Also thinking of selling a 03 (black)with 8000 miles on it, any offers?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 02:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cheap set of risers for the drag bars is the top clamps turned upside down and longer bolts. PT # M0348.T Less than $5 each. There are other options, but you'll need to do a search to find them-probably in the handlebars section. The best option I know is $100! Drag bars can be mounted without risers, you'll just either have to turn the bars up or not be able to lock the steering.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 02:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Might want to check that your front ground is good.
EZ
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Awf_hand
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I changed my plug this weekend. What a simple thing that was to do. Previous bikes, I've had to strip everything off but the paint to get to the damned thing. The Blast allows reasonable access and removal with just a box wrench.
Something that did make me say WTF, however, was the spark plug that I purchased. I bought the NGK replacement as that's what I'd used in my regular as well as racing apps for years, and the d&mned plug didn't come with a top!! You know, the part that the plug wire snaps onto?!?! No top! Just a little threaded post.
I'd bought a pair of plugs as it's nice to have a spare of the cheapest essential part that my bike needs, and neither came with a top.

The store took care of me, but still, WTF??

Bike ran great after changing the plug. Refused to start prior to this change. -My fault there.

Note to others however:

Open the package at the store to make sure the plug you're buying has a top!!

I'd read somewhere about 'loctite' used on this top post. This seems like it would impede electricity a bit, so I opted to bung threads and force screw the top on. IRMV.

_______________________

Firing order:

1
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Evilbetty
Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The plug may be intended for a different bike. The NGK plugs for my Triumph tiger do not have the nipple. The coils have connections that grab onto the threaded top instead of the nipple. I bought 3 plugs. One came with the nipple half way threaded on.
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