| Author |
Message |
    
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 05:24 pm: | 
|
Hey all. I think my 01 might have a bad ignition module too. The bike will run for a few minutes then a loud pop, or 2 or 3 out the exhaust and then dies. While running, the LED blinks consistently and I have tested the plug, wire and coil and all are good. I plan to check the safety switches and grounds (as soon as I figure out where the 2 grounds are) and check the timing.
Do these symptoms sound like the Ignition Module? Seems I have been having some sort of problem with this bike for the 3 weeks I have had it. I imagine the PO, who said he did not ride it because he and is wife could not go 2 up on it, actually knew there was a problem and did not feel like dealing with it.
I have thought about taking it to the local independent shop here in town (not the H-D stealership) but with it not running for long and not restarting until it cools down for a long time, afraid I would not be able to make it over there.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 12:47 pm: |
|
Alot of times when the ignition module goes bad it will run fine when cold but as it heats up it starts to run poorly or stops running altogether. I remember when the module on the Big Kids Blast was bad, it took more than a year of crappy running and then when it finally failed and stoped running after it got hot. So I feel your pain, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. After checking and rechecking replace the module. It costs around $125 and if it is corrects the problem it will be the best $125 you can spend. |
Garlic_sauce
| | Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 01:41 pm: |
|
Whats up Hld01blast Here's what my symptoms were when my module was bad. When it was still cold it ran fine but when it heated up it would "choke" 3 or 4 four times and then pop from the intake. I also noticed the bike had poor acceleration when it was hot. Mine never stalled out but I have read that can happen. After I installed the new module it was like night and day, Also did you try re-timing the module? Before I installed the new one I RE-timed the old one wrong and that made it backfire from the exhaust. I'm not saying my symptoms are the only ones that can happen, Like gearheaderiko told me the symptoms seem to vary greatly. Also If you haven't already re-timed it try that, the method that worked for me was the "alternate method" listed in the KV. It could well be the module though seeing as that your bike is a 2001 like mine. Hope this helps, let me know if you hit a snag because I just did all this stuff myself. |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 01:05 pm: |
|
Thanks for the help! I believe my problems may indeed be the ignition module and I still need to check the timing so I might need more help. Thanks to everyone for being so helpful. This forum has been a life saver! |
Garlic_sauce
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 03:09 pm: |
|
No problem, Let me know. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 09:31 am: |
|
I thought I read where a better ignition module was available for a 2001. Is that one different than the "new" one that I got from HD? It had different #'s than the original and were printed with bolder lettering. Wouldn't a newer model ignition module work as the Blast hasn't changed much over the years? If so, could I get the part # to compare with the one I have. The bike choked in 4th and 5th last weekend on a ride for about 10 miles off and on. It cleared after the bike cooled and I was headed back from the ride. It hasn't happened yet on my commute to work this week. Also, this last tank didn't get any boost (Turbo 108) and it seems to run better without. Still backfires on de-exelleration a little. I plan to drain the tank this weekend and check the timing. What is your take on octane boost? I was giving the piglet a shot (2ounce) when I used it as the stuff I used was ounce per gal. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 09:46 am: |
|
I just read a thread on the ignition module # and the one I put in 1500 miles ago was the 00YA. Hard to believe it would go bad in just a short period of time. Hoping it is a gas issue. I only run 91 octane. Maybe it's Chevron gas. Switching to 76. Is ethanot/alchohol fuel o.k.? I thought I read here or in my manual (but can't remember where, must be old timers. lol) what fuel mix was the best. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 01:41 pm: |
|
91 octane Cheveron
EZ |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Thursday, October 07, 2010 - 09:49 am: |
|
Thank you EZ. I'll stick with Chevron. I should know better as a late uncle was a pipefitter for Chevron here in Richmond Ca. and would roll over in his grave if he knew I switched.lol Is there another ignition module besides the 00YA that I installed for the Blast (stock)? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, October 07, 2010 - 10:57 am: |
|
No. It would suck if it went bad that quickly, its not normal, but not unheard of with electronic parts. Thats just the way it goes. Do you still have the old one?
I'd leave out the octane boost. Its not necessary and might be adding to your problem. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Thursday, October 07, 2010 - 08:28 pm: |
|
Thanks Gearheaderiko, I'm having to bite the bullet and get a new igniton module. It is "clicking or poping" at times at the throttle when I down shift and did that when I bought the bike with the old one. Couldn't get past 10 miles or 10 minutes before it would die with the old one. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 10:03 am: |
|
Before I jump the gun and spend more money on a ignition module, I'm going to check the diodes out. Looked at em last night and they seem a bit corroded as the bike sat for a while with the previous owner. Bikes apart and I noticed a few other things. Split in fuel line at hose clamp at petcock and an oil leak at the lower rocker cover gasket(s). I'll let all know the outcome of this minor project. Parts run today. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 09, 2010 - 06:55 pm: |
|
Well, after my posting about this that and all other things, it turns out the the primary circuit check on the ignition coil shows an open at the ignition module/ground check. I should have gotten 0.4-0.6ohm reading. Instead, I got a dance and a jig before the meter 000 out, meaning an open. The secondary read a perfect 8.9ohm. I guess I was lucky to still be able to ride. Now, the week wait for the part. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 09, 2010 - 07:06 pm: |
|
Well tested!
EZ |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Friday, October 22, 2010 - 10:41 am: |
|
Well, I may have a working second coil. I still need to cut and twist the kick-stand wires and flip the clutch diode to see if that will help, but the bike ran good to work, about 10 miles, then on the way home, down-shifted to 2nd from 3rd, heard a pop (click) at the throttle, she started backfiring, and stalled. It would turnover, but wouldn't fire. Got it home, started up in the morning and idled fine. Left it home for fear of any more stalling and continue my investigations. Any word on an after market (pro-series type) module? I checked with HD and looked at revolution on line and found discontinued. I suspect the module, but find it hard to believe it would only last 1700 miles. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 01:30 am: |
|
There really is a wealth of information here:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/253601.html
Crane Cams reportedly made the Pro Series (PS) ignition module so I would contact them and ask. There hasnt ever been a direct cross reference for the 'factory' PS ignition module. All have needed some kind of modification to work with a Blast. Perhaps Crane can shed some light or offer up a compatible ignition (which used to exist, but now?).
Twin Tech seems to make the closest to 'factory' PS Blast ignition (see "tech note" on ignition page). Its still needs a rotor mod and I dont know if it will work with the TPS or Auto enrichener. I would definitely contact them.
Just about any Buell/HD "nose cone" ignition or any ignition that is self contained in the cam gear case will work with some adaption or modification. Its also covered in the ignition module threads. As with most non-Blast ignitions you'll need to find a way to deal with the TPS (which can be eliminated or replaced with a vacuum operated switch-VOES) and the Auto Enrichener (which must be dealt with by either directly wiring it to a switch, hooking a cable to it or replacing the carb with a common HD/Buell carb). Most of the Sportster 'nose cone' ignitions use the same 6 wires with identical colour coding making them very easy to fit.
With more work and with less available wiring information, just about any Buell/HD ignition will work. Old style point ignitions can even be fitted (or electronic point ignition conversion kits).
Disconnect the kickstand switch and flip the diode. Both are easily done and easily reversible (if desired) and will eliminate a lot of guesswork and common problem areas.
FWIW: I have 3 PS ignitions. All bought new, all went bad. They arent any more reliable than the stock ignition (and $300 a pop). While a great ignition when they work, they arent better odds to be reliable. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 03:27 am: |
|
Thanks for that info Gearheaderiko, it sounds like a bit of research is in order. I may or may not switch it out. It will depend on my mood at the time.
Are you talking about the diodes in the fuse box under the seat? I know a diode is a one way and never thought flipping it would make a difference. Electricity is a trip! You couldn't do that in most other applications and still get it to work. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 09:48 am: |
|
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 12:17 pm: |
|
Once again, thanks. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 01:35 am: |
|
How goes it? Any progress? |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 01:55 am: |
|
I replaced the old rocker cover gasket and checked the sensors. It seems the clutch sensor and kickstand were already tied off. The bike ran solid for a day or two and the backfiring came back. I'm going to try the alternate static method and see if retarding the timing will solve it. I did find the exhaust nuts loose at the head. That silence the backfire a bit. I may need to check the carb and make sure it is sealed up correctly without any leaks. Working a ton of overtime right now and time is hard to come by. One thing at a time for now. The bike is still getting me to work, and people on the big road have no problem knowing I'm beside them while splitting lanes in traffic! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 02:07 am: |
|
I'm glad its still getting you around. I thought maybe it was just sitting in the garage. |
Johneblast
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 11:22 am: |
|
I try not to let that happen to any of my bikes. Like a good diet, you got to keep them regular. I tweaked the idle a bit and the backfire is almost gone. Just a sputter now and then when de-eccelerating, but nothing to noticable. Did you get the email E? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 07:56 pm: |
|
Yes! Will respond later  |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 09:25 pm: |
|
Your Honor - I rest my case - Das Boot!
EZ |
Torqupine
| | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 12:32 pm: |
|
does anybody know the best place to get a replacement Timer Cover? Mine fell off somewhere along a 120 mile ride last week. Also, is it okay to ride without it until I get it replaced? |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 12:42 pm: |
|
any HD parts/ repair shop will have a replacement bolt on cover. Unfortunately they are usually chrome.
I wouldn't ride in the rain. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2011 - 10:04 pm: |
|
You will have to bolt it on, that means drilling and tapping the cam cover.
Another way is to glue it on with a gob of silicone.
You will be OK in the rain, the module is sealed. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2011 - 10:36 pm: |
|
Uh...No!
Ignition module screws are the same screws Harley has used for many years and are drilled and tapped for the points/timing cover screws. No drilling is necessary, just remember to buy the cover screws.
Even though the module is sealed, I'd avoid riding in the rain with it off too. |
