| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Joey: I wonder if somewhere down the line someone used the wrong tranny fluid and contaminated your clutch plates. You might want to try changing your tranny fluid every 500 or 1000 miles with the same 'approved' tranny fluid every time.3 or more times to see if the problem goes away. Also the manual states if the primary is overfilled it can cause problems. Finding neutral is normal. Just need to shift a little harder through those gears. | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Oil Fluid Change 1. Need needle nose plyers, a filter wrench, and a milk jug along with the other half of one you used in your trans fluid change, and newspapers. 2.unplug oil and drain lines and place in jug - let drain, open top oil fill to assist in drainage.   3. When oil is done dripping - plug it up and the vent drain as well. 4.put that flat tray/milkjug half under filter(with newspapers under that)and using a filter wrench procede to remove filter.  5.Put a seal of oil on the oil seal of the new filter and screw on till hand tight then snugged.  6. Add 1 3/4 quarts of your favorite synth. 7. Put the cap back on, give the bike a 10 min. spin and then check your oil level and adjust from there. Done. (Message edited by mutt2jeff on May 13, 2005) | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci' | ||
| Clyde_causey |
EZ primary tranny fluid change. Just finished. Remove seat fish trans. breather hose out of frame on left upper frame member. Drain primary and leave plug out. You can blow into the breather hose to force the oil out and to verify you have the right hose.Lean bike over (I leaned it until right handle bar was setting on trash can about 24" tall with front wheel turned against left lock.) Fit the oil bottle with a spout that will slip inside the breather hose, I use the spout from a bottle of gear oil. Now squeeze the oil into the breather hose. It will fill the cavity in the trans. but will not run out the open drain hole because of the tilt of the bike. The drain hole must be left open to allow the oil in and not build up pressure. At this point I force air (puckered up and blew)down the hose to help clear it of excess oil.Before you stand the bike up, INSTALL THE PLUG. Wipe the end of the hose off, put it back in place and install seat. TA DA!! thanks,clyde | ||
| Captain_grmc |
For the record, I just changed my Transmission oil today. Okay, I missed the 1,000 mile check by 544 miles. First of all, everyone talks about oil, but not what you're supposed to use. The book says Sportster Trans Fluid. The parts lady at the HD/Buell dealership said the equivalent was Harley Davidson's Synthetic 20W50 motor oil. So for the record, now all I need is one oil. Second, changing the Tranny oil is a bear. I can't believe I had to remove the left footpeg bracket to get to the clutch access cover. I also can't believe you're supposed to undo and redo those three bolts in the position they are in every 5,000 miles. Third, I can't wait for the Jardine exhaust to get here. Not only could I not get any type of end-cap wrench on the oil filter for the engine, but I could not get the dog-gone tranny plug out to wipe off the magnet and replace the rubber O-ring. Fourthly, while they have a neat set-up for the engine oil drain line, you'll get oil all over the pipe undoing the oil filter and doing the tranny drain. I made a deflector keep most of the oil from the tranny off the stock pipe, but still this is a ridiculous set-up for service. Last of all, now I have to wait until tomorrow to wash what oil did get on the pipe even though I was careful -off the pipe because if I open up my garage tonight, all the bugs in the world will be in there. Only then can I fire up the thing and top off the oil for the engine. Mark P.S. Since I have a set of Torx sockets, I didn't find the clutch cover to be a real problem. I also noted the service manual says to tighten the screws to 7-9 ft-lbs (84-108 in-lbs). | ||
| Swampy |
I use a big pair of channel lock pliers to remove the oil filter. I also rest the bike on the right side(Oil filter side) using a jack stand in the "Y" of the right foot peg bracket to keep the oil off the muffler and down the side of the engine when removing the oil filter. As far as the trans goes, I am refilling the transmission through the vent hose. Rev limiters only work on the way up! | ||
| Xgecko |
just stick a screwdriver in the filter to take it off. Works better and is much simpler than using a wrench. Rearsets make a tranny fluid change soooo much simplier...worth the cost just for that reason Life isn't fair...so cheat | ||
| Swampy |
Xgecko is right. I don't know why they would have come from the factory that way....LOL Maybe the next one? Rev limiters only work on the way up! | ||
| Andywestbrook |
well my filter is so messed up ive tried everything other than a vise grip to get it off. its all crewed up. any sugesstions? thanks | ||
| Swampy |
A BIG pair of Channel locks, made in India! Or drive a screw driver through it. Are you sure you are turning it the right way? Rev limiters only work on the way up! | ||
| Andywestbrook |
i got it off with big pair of channel locks, thanks, now the new one is tight but hand tight so it will come off. hahah | ||
| Captain_grmc |
I couldn't get any of my oil filter wrenches to fit, not even the old band type for the car, so I wrapped a rubber fuel line around the filter to take it off. It gave me enough grab to unscrew the thing by pulling on one end of the line. Now I have used the grandfather's big old screwdriver before on cars and it does work! lol I tightened the filter pretty hard hand tight which actually turned the filter more than the book says to once contact was made. I'll see how hard it is to take off next time. The only good thing is I know after running it so I could top off the oil that it doesn't leak at all. The Jardine exhaust hopefully will be here in June and maybe then I can get a small oil wrench on the filter AND be able to get the Tranny oil out without having to wash the bike off too. This bike really is a blast to ride though and all I've put on it so far are Crossroads Performance bars and Baren mirrors. (Message edited by captain_grmc on May 29, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
While jamming a screwdriver through the filter to loosen it looks trick, cool, badass and usually works, you'll have a tough time with a very stubborn filter after you've just mutilated it. Its best to use the appropriate tool first and then move on to the more drastic measures if that fails. Not wanting to sound like a nowitall jerk, but I've changed a lot of filters. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Nice job on all the pictures! Sure beats trying to explain it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Note - replace your peg hanger bolts with coupling nuts and a lock washer - the longer nuts are easier to get on and off - making the job much easier for the people enjoying the stock setup. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Bitbear |
EZ -- I think I screwed up my first tranny fluid change. 1) My dealer had replaced the clutch inspection cover torx screws with hex bolts, so removing the cover was easy with an open end wrench; 2) but I couldn't get the drain plug all the way out;it ran into the stock muffler before it would come out; 3) Even so, it drained. The plug drained for about an hour and a half and I though it was good and empty -- but maybe not; 4) I replaced the drain plug and added exactly one quart of Mobil 1 15/50 through the inspection port using a long, flexible funnel with a small end. In the end, I thought "Wow" except for the drain plug problem, the inspection cover with hex nuts makes this easy! I took it out on a test dive and all was well -- for about 15 miles. Then the clutch started grabbing -- hard to disengage. I've read on one of the threads or in my manual that overfilling can cause this kind of problem. I that what happened? Have I now damaged the clutch? How to I correct the problem -- just drain a little fluid back out? Also, next time do I need to bit the bullet and try to remove the muffler first so I can fully remove the drain plug? Or is there some way to wiggle it out with the muffler still in place; maybe just loosen the rear muffler mount/hanger? Any advice on how to correct the problem is greatly appreciated. My only other option is to hobble to my dreaded dealer. Thanks! | ||
| Swampy |
With a stock muffler the bolt will come out but there is some trickery involved, I don't know how I do it but if you wiggle it back up in the hole then tilt it out it will come out. As far as the clutch grabbing....Did you misplace the little spring and keeper that holds the clutch adjustment? If you are sure everything is OK inside I would make a clutch adjustment and try running it like that. I don't think you would be having a fluid compatibility issue using Mobile 1 | ||
| Bitbear |
Swampy: Wow, I may be more of a dope than even I thought possible! I found a spring and a disk like metal part in the bottom of my oil pan. I was mystified but thought it might have been from another vehicle I'd worked on. I didn't think it was from the Buell because I couldn't imagine where it may have come from. So where did it come from? and how to I fix it? I saved the spring and metal object, of course. Yikes,I feel like a total dork! Help! | ||
| Swampy |
Well that explains your problem, your clutch has been un adjusting itself when you pull the clutch in that is why it is dragging! Those parts go under the clutch adjustment cover and probably fell out and into your drain pan when you removed the cover(remember your bike was tipped to the left) How you fix it is to simply make a clutch adjustment and replace the lock nut and spring when you are finished. Start at the beginning, you need freeplay on the cable first, loosen the cable locknut hidden under the rubber boot about half way up on your clutch cable, thread the two halves together making it shorter. Now make the clutch adjustment, I believe turn the adjusting screw out counter clockwise till it gets snug, then turn it clockwise 1/4 turn and replace the lock nut. Place the spring on top of the nut under the cover and readjust the cable so that you have a bit of freeplay on the clutch lever. (check all this in the clutch adjustment section) You really need to learn to do this as it is a simple operation and it is easier to do while you already have the left foot rest bracket off. | ||
| Bitbear |
Thanks, Swampy... Between your advice and the shop manual, I guess I can manage it. The part that still seems foggy at this point is, though, where the spring and retainer go once I have the clutch adjusted. I somehow put them inside the inspection cover? How in the world do I do that? Or do they go somewhere on the cable before they enter the casing? Beyond that,is it possible to do this without removing the foot rest bracket, I bought the appropriate ratchet extensions but once I got in there -- and tried -- I just couldn't imagine how I could actually loosen all three nuts! It looks impossible. Swamp... thanks for your help. Bitbear | ||
| Buellkat |
Bitbear, you can do it. Swampy has given you the step by step to "fix" it. Between that and the pictures in the manual. To remove the bracket it just takes PATIENCE. I have little to none and I have done it, more times than I wanted too lol. Use the extensions, it also really helps to have the, (oh it is too early to remember what it's called) thingy that lets the socket bend in any direction. It helps to either loosen the nut all the way to the end, to move the bracket a bit, but to remove the bracket all the way just gets it out of the way. Then you have the fun of putting the nuts back on. If you take out the battery, it gives you some room also. Hope this helps. | ||
| Bitbear |
Okay. I'm ready to go back at it. I got a 9/16 universal socket (the universal joint is built in) and loosening the bracket bolts seems at least a little less intimidating now. But maybe I'll get lucky: It depends on how the spring and retainer go in. It is still unclear to me but looking at the spring snapped onto the retainer (with a slot in the middle of it) I'm guessing that it slips onto the center of the clutch assembly with the spring facing outward. If so, it might not be too difficult pushing the inspection cover in place without knocking the spring off. If that's the case, all I have to do is learn how to re-adjust the clutch then replace the inspection cover (and spring/retainer) -- maybe without having to loosen the and footrest bracket after all. Thanks to Swampy -- and all -- for the advice and encouragement. By the way, the reason I wasn't aware of the spring retainer is because I was following the "Transmission/Primary Fluid' section [1.10] of the shop manual -- which does not mention it, instead of the "Clutch -- transmission fluid" section [6.4] which DOES refer to the spring and "lockplate." Phew, it just goes to show! I expect to work on it tomorrow. Wish me luck... | ||
| Swampy |
I just posted elswhere in the Thumper forum, if you are making the clutch adjustment, make the primary adjustment first, if the primary is too tight it can cause the clutch to drag. So for good preventative maintenance: Adjust the primary, Drain the fluid, Adjust the clutch | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
4. adjust the cable. There should be a distinction between the two. Clutch adjustment at the clutch, then at the cable. Lest one or the other be forgotten.  | ||
| Bitbear |
All done; success! Thanks to all. Your advice convinced me I could get those narly bracket nuts loosened. Used a 7 5/8 exstension and 2 3/4 w/ universal adapter and 9/16 socket to loosen the top two nuts, a 7 5/8 and a 5 inch extension with the universal setup to get that bottom devil. Bracket loosened right up, backed the clutch adjustment screw to a loose stop, then went another 1/4 turn. Replaced the spring and lockplate, then the the cover slipped right in. Finished up with cable adjustment. Kindaofa bitch with the bracket nuts but not all that bad once you reach them. Scary the first time but with everyone's advice it wasn't very bad at all. Thanks! | ||
| Reuel |
Once you've done it a few (dozen?) times, that foot peg bracket is quite easy. I can have it loose in about 5 minutes. Pulling the other one is really tough! There are cables and such in the way and very little slack to move them. | ||
| Roysbuell |
Just changed the engine oil and was about to loosen the tranny drain and thought I'd check here for any problems I may encounter. I am so glad I didn't drain the fluid or I would have had to flip the bike upside down to replace the fluid. I'll work on an oil change for the tranny another day when I have more time and the right tools. In the meantime is there anyway to check the level without an engineering degree and specialized tools? | ||
| Swampy |
You can refill the primary through the vent tube if you don't want to fil it through the clutch cover. | ||
| Reuel |
What Swampy said. When you drain it, make sure it's level and warm so the oil flows better. Rock it side-to-side a little once it stops pouring to get that last bit out. One quart is what you need to fill it. It'll be 2 ounces too full, but everybody here thinks 2 ounces is negligible, including me. | ||
| 1burntorangebuell |
Do you open up both of the hoses when your draining the engine oil? |
