| Author | Message | ||
     Wbsprudels |
Thanks, Indy. That price came from the Bloomington HD. It was based on their $75/hr rate. I supply the bars, mirrors, and grips. The price reflects only their labor. I am still waiting to hear back from them on the warranty question. | ||
| Indybuell |
WBS - Wow. It only took me maybe 40 minutes tops. But like I said, I would be more than happy to help you make the swap for free. I believe that your warranty is protected by Indiana state law, the same as the folks that mod out their import cars. If the mod can't be attributed directly to the failure, they have to cover it. But no matter what they say, if they are totally positive about it, be sure to get it in writing from the service manager. You could also probably call Buell Customer Service. Hopefully it warms up a bit this week to get some serious riding in. | ||
| Awf_hand |
Just curious on that bar swap: Do you end up with lots of dangly cables and wires? I'd done the swap years ago when building a street tracker on a Yamaha XS and it was always apparent, even to the casual observer that the cables/wiring weren't for those bars... Anyone have a picture of a before/after?? ______________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Evilbetty |
The hardest parts with this are removing the left hand grip and getting the control peg holes right the first time, and all of that really was not that hard in retrospect. Before you start, cut all the wire ties holding the cables. When you the the bars and controls where you want them (wait till after a couple test rides) zip tie them up. They all routed easily. The brake cable had to be loosened at the brake reservoir to swivel it to the new angle. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Indy: I linked to those tail pics- See:http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/402144.html?1223487875 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Awf-hand: Even with clip-ons the wires wont seem long. Only the brake line may hang out and one good reason for this is that loosening up the banjo bolt at either brake line connection may not reseal without a new washer. Therefore putting it in the right place may leave you with a leaky line (and no front brake). Easily solved with a new washer and the chances of it leaking are about the same as that of getting the stock left handgrip off in re usable condition! | ||
| Rainman |
Howdy folks.....had a good time last weekend taking an 8-year-old on his first motorcycle ride ever, in 36-degree weather, no less. We bought him his own helmet and then cruised around the Blue Ridge, stopping in a couple of cycle shops. "You guys ride in?" some biker types asked as he took off his helmet. "Well, yeah," he said, like they should have as well. Cool kid. Knew a sportbike from a cruiser. Of course, I had to teach him the term naked bike, which went over well. Any way, Blast on fellow babies..... | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Rainman you ought to say hi in the Blastards are We section - lol EZ | ||
| Awf_hand |
Thanks Erik, always curious about results. -Ive had good luck removing handgrips by boiling water and pouring the water over the handgrip to heat the thing up. Grab it with a gloved hand and work end to end with a twisting motion. I've not had one destroyed. (snickering) brought the lil blastard along did ya? "Ooooohh! Loook at the cyoooot littull blastard" {accompanied by cheek pinching} That was probably funnier in my head. ________________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Everybody (including me) says they have a way of always getting handgrips off without damage, until they meet the Buell Blast left side grip. 1 out of 3 (at least) wont come off without cutting, scraping, melting,etc. Those that have been lucky to get the grip off, didnt get the one installed by that one guy at the factory who loves glue. You wont believe it until you see it! | ||
| Indybuell |
Anyone own a GMax helmet? Do you like it? I am thinking about getting one of the 68 series Crusader helmets for my wife (pink) so she can ride with me. They seem to be considerably cheaper than what I paid for my HJC. | ||
| Awf_hand |
"...considerably cheaper than...HJC" HJC has some of the least expensive helmets out there. If she has any education, I'd consider a bit better helmet for your wife. Preserving the investment and all... I was always told to buy the best helmet I could afford. If the GMax is it, well, it's better than nothing. Otherwise, they saved money in their manufacturing somewhere. -My opinion only. Worth what you paid me for it.} | ||
| Rainman |
I have a $100 AFX that's cool looking and an $350 Shoei that's straight white and not cheap. The AFX is my every day ride and provides quality protection. The Shoei is my highway, cold weather helmet. The hardware, the fit, the comfort, the liners, the vents are all SO MUCH BETTER on the Shoei, especially the quiet on the highway, that you really do see why it costs so much more. Get the best you can and, someday when you have $400, get a really good one and feel the difference. | ||
| Prof_stack |
Make any helmet quieter by using earplugs. They're pretty cheap these days and offer ~33dB of noise suppression. You still hear the motor, but don't have all the wind working at your ears for future hearing loss (ask me how I know...). Yeah, get a helmet that fits YOU, snug and contoured to your unique head shape. Pay what you want, but generally (with some exceptions, of course) more is better. | ||
| Indybuell |
Its both DOT and Snell approved. I will pick it up, and let you guys know what she thinks about it. I paid close to $300 for my HJC CL-MAX at the local bike shop, so I would say that yes $125 for a helmet is considerably cheaper. Plus mine doesn't have a Snell Cert. | ||
| Crackhead |
just get a standard (non flip up) HJC or what ever quality brand fits. | ||
| Imadreadhead |
So i have a lock on a BLAST Screaming Eagle adjustable ignition at a Harley Shop fairly close to me..its around $270. Would this be a worthwhile investment to get? If i dont get it..would anyone like me to get it for them? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Before you plunk down a lot of cash for that module...check around for a Crane Fireball HI-4 (that is what the Pro Series ignition is) or a Daytona Twin-tec.(Just make sure you get the appropriate model) You may be able to beat that price by a lot if you shop carefully...and a really dependable vendor (that is also a BadWeb sponsor) that I can personally vouch for as top notch is Cycle Rama...Wes and Pam can hook you up..(they may not be the cheapest vendor, but are SUPER RELIABLE) (Message edited by fast1075 on November 26, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Sage advice - but they do cost around that price new. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
OK, guys, I've been drinking again. Here's a question that might be for the engine section, but probably will go nowhere once I sober up unless finances suddenly favor it. What would it take to build the Blast engine to withstand WOT while only getting enough fuel to idle? The idea is to use the injector as the throttle and leave the intake wide open, like a Diesel engine. Let the silliness begin! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The SE ignition is very worthwhile as it bolts right on, no mods required. $270 is top dollar (better than full price) for an old ignition though. I've had 2 SE ignitions go bad and if they wont at least warranty that for $270, then I wouldnt buy it for that price (if you read the instructions they imply a warranty, but the dealers usually say no) Ebay is usually about $150, tops (definitely no warranty). I'd buy it for a much lower price, dependent on if they'll warranty it (one was bad, right out of the box-worked for a very very short time). There are other ignition options, but none as convenient. | ||
| Indybuell |
For us Noobs..... What would the benefits of said ignition be over the stock one? We're just talking about being able to adjust timing, correct? I to have been drinking as well... Thanksgiving tradition in our family states that atleast 4 cases of Blue Moon have to be vanquished. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You will notice an immediate improvement on starting and start up. Throttle response will be better. Is it worth $270 for just those?-no (imho-unless money doesnt matter). It will adjust timing advance curves and rpm limits up to 8000rpm. It is also programable, if you have the software and hook-up. Its only worth the money, imho, if you are going to do further improvements (at minimum) such as spending lots of time tuning the carb and timing. If you are going to do headwork, a serious plus. If you plan on doing nothing more than the basic exhaust, intake and jetting, its not worth it (especially if it goes bad). PS was that 4 cases or 4 choruses of "Blue Moon"? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on November 26, 2008) | ||
| Swampy |
Oooh, good question Reuel! Oooh, Blue Moon! I have some Flying Dog in the closet that I will take out to the garage tomorrow while the wife isn't looking. It isn't a holiday until Uncle Jerry gets drunk and makes a speach. | ||
| Reuel |
What happened? You drunkards are talking about alcohol! That's only the cause of my rambling and has nothing to do with the question! That's it! I'm done posting while drunk! Well, until tomrrow, maybe... | ||
| Imadreadhead |
The ignition i have access to is from a licensed harley dealership | ||
| Fast1075 |
Since one of my personal quirks is to defy conventionality...and flaunt a dislike for political correctness...I hereby and heartily proclaim....Happy Thanksgiving!! if this offends anyone..feel free to ignore my reality and substitute your own  | ||
| Dann |
Sorry for being gone so long, work and family have kept me from the boards. The SE ignition is only a wise investment if you have done other mods like eriko said. The benefits: Adjustable rev limiter! Don't go above stock unless you've done serious valetrain work. Works with auto enrichener, others don't as far as I know. Adjustable ignition advance, slight improvement over stock unless other mods are in place. For me it's been totaly reliable 30,000 miles plus a few. My advice, do all other mods before ignition. Intake, exhaust, headwork, replace all stock Sportster valvetrain including valves, springs and seats. I could only really feel the performance boost(large) above 5000 rpm. Plus making the bike lighter, it's never been on a dyno, but I weighed it at work 297.9 Lbs. It will do power wheelies in second gear if you like that kind of stuff. I've had my bike since I bought it brand new in 2001 so it has been a long term and large investment and I would only suggest you mod your bike if you plan on keeping it a long time. I bought mine when they had the trade-in deal on the Sportster, I ended up keeping it. Apologies for the long post! | ||
| Dann |
Oh yeah, Happy Thanksgiving!! |
