| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
What gas where you running - I hope not low grade, detonation leading to a holed piston could be one explanation as well. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I cant see how the detent clip would cause loud knocking without some kind of transmission problem. You'll need to pull off the cylinder head to find out if its a rod bearing/bushing/piston pin or have someone who's good with engine noises have a listen (then pull the head and cylinder if thats what they suspect). It is entirely possible that by turning the crankshaft you will hear or feel the rod loose. Just put a socket and breaker bar on the engine sprocket nut and move it back and forth. You might be able to hear the play, if its bad enough. It is also possible you had a valve lifter collapse and that would lead to a power loss. Pull off the rocker cover, turn the engine over (by hand) and see what the valve train play is like. You should be able to feel a difference between the two valves. One pushrod will be very loose. You could also accomplish the same by pulling the cam cover. Not as easy to see, but might be easier to do. | ||
| Indybuell |
Mag, Hell, I would call BCS, and ask for Erik! You are the poster child for Buell Blast reliability. I would think that with all of the positive press you give the model, they would get one to you expeditiously. Maybe even involve Court. | ||
| Rainman |
Hell yeah, you convinced me that I could drive mine from Virginia to Michigan, since you made it from Florida to Michigan. | ||
| Zeroman |
-ez.. yup i'm in a hurry. Has to be going by 3rd of november or it means riding the bus for the wife. Just because a lot hawaiians are lazy and stupid doesn't mean we all are. No reason to waste time. Only live once..and its short... don't do it sittin on your ass. Yea.. earliest I could get a rear tire that would be sent out here was 2 weeks. So I got a set of the pirellis. Not much out there for that little thing. But the pirelli's didn't even cost me 100 bucks after shipping (to NY.. cost me a bit to get em here. but that's not the place's fault) Local harley dealer wanted $250 and 2 weeks to get the pirellis. | ||
| Ezblast |
I always liked to think of Hawaiians as laid back - a Hawaiian would feel right at home in the rural southern Florida areas(I lived in Daytona 12 years - did the Keys every other month) - the Keys especially - lol - It would be a massive exchange of barbecue recipes. The Pirelli are very good, you'll enjoy them - I have. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on October 18, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
The one thing that I like about Pirelli tires above all others is that I can do whatever I want without worrying about rubber and pavement not getting along. When there was a layer of ice or snow between the two, well, that's a different story. | ||
| Bubs |
Can someone please explain to me how I am supposed to adjust the primary chain? I have to do the sound method because an inch-pound torque wrench is like two hundred bucks. I showed the directions to my dad, an experienced motorcycle rider, and he is confounded. I understand the whole thing about running the bike, I understand how the lock nut and the tensioner nut work. But, for the life of me I cannot adjust it right. I have a pair of vice grips on the lock nut as I adjust the tensioner nut. I tightened until I heard the change in sound, but the bike stalled before I could back off. Now, regardless of the position of the nut, it will not start without six seconds of persistent cranking and I have to keep it revved. The bike was running fine before the intake boot went for the third time. A week later, I got the bike back and it was vibrating like hell, and it wouldn't stay running. The shop didn't care so I took it home. I figured it was the primary, so here I am. Can someone explain to me how to do it exactly? Explain it like I am three. This is driving me off the wall. | ||
| Ezblast |
With the bike not running back it off about 12 flats - then you should be fine. The vibrating - check your front Isolator for cracks and tears. EZ | ||
| Bubs |
Brand new front and rear isolators. Waited a month on them, a week after the intake boot went and this whole mess started. Backed off twelve flats, still cranks up hard and vibrates, will not run. *$@%. | ||
| Ezblast |
Check your front ground - you said the front isolator was just done - sounds like it was done badly and re-cracked, if its vibrating badly - and sounds like your front ground is loose - though I would check the rear ground as well. EZ | ||
| Bubs |
What is this ground you speak of? I honestly have no idea. I am so frustrated right now. | ||
| Ezblast |
On the left side of the bike - on the front section of the frame - you'll see a thick braided wire - make sure both contact points are clean and tight. The second ground is the wire from the battery. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on October 19, 2008) | ||
| Bubs |
Thank you so much for all of your help, I will be sure to check that tomorrow. This bike is driving me off the wall but I'll have it figured out eventually. Thanks again! | ||
| Swampy |
Check the "DO NOT REMOVE" bracket bolts, if they were removed to install the front isolator then they may be broken. Also backing off the primary chain way off will not hurt anything to start the bike, then adjust it up again until the RPMs and/or noise changes. Make sure the bike is cold but just off fast idle. Maybe you have another intake boot that cracked. | ||
| Bubs |
I really hope that intake boot didn't crack, as the bike only made one 10-mile trip home after that last one was installed--it's been sitting since. I will check those brackets. | ||
| Rainman |
Sounds silly, but trust me: Check the little radiator hose clamps that go around the boot. Mine started acting odd and I just retightened them. That made a difference. Oh, and a new airfilter helped A LOT | ||
| Indybuell |
First - I put on a set of Superbike bars this weekend with some new Buell Traction grips. For $30 total its a brand freakin new bike. I love it. Bad news, is my gear isn't up for these 40 degree mornings. My Tourmaster jacket worked well, but my legs/neck about froze off. What kind of cold gear are you guys using? | ||
| Rainman |
Tourmaster overpants (without the liner is fine until you get to about 27 degrees), Tourmaster Traveller winter gloves (toasty to 30) and Firstgear water resistant/touring jacket long since discontinued, with the full quilted liner and a Buell rainjacket beneath to hold in extra heat on bad days. Oh, and a bandana and $2 scarf from KMart | ||
| Evilbetty |
Hehe I don't have money for all the cool gear. I've only been trying this out the last few weeks since it started getting cold. Mornings like today (55-60). I was able to wear my summer gear with the liner in. Around 50 I add a pair of cheap rain pants and a fleece turtle for my neck. Below that (no colder than 40 for me) I add a fleece jacket under my summer jacket with the liner, a pair of sweat pants over my work pants and under the rain pants, and switch from my summer gloves to my full gauntlet snow boarding gloves. All that extra gear might have cost me a total of $40 from Wal-Mart and Target. Ideally I would love to have some nice insulated overpants, and a parka style fall/winter jacket. Tearing all of those layers off when I get to work is kind of a pain. | ||
| Rainman |
try newenough.com and motorcycle closeouts .com. That's where I got my stuff and I got real cheap (Pants $90, Jacket $50, gloves $20, all last year.) Just look in the closeouts at the big online stores and you can find a lot of stuff cheap. | ||
| Bubs |
I've had it. Anybody want a '01 Buell Blast, black in color, 9,600 miles...runs but needs a bit of work. $1,000. I just can't deal with this anymore. I have checked everything on this bike, and the only reputable dealer is 50 miles away. I can't keep up with the maintenance on this thing. I appreciate all of your help here, there are a lot of smart individuals with great advice but I am at the end of my rope. | ||
| Evilbetty |
I know Motorcycle Closeouts well  Got my jacket there, twice... (first jacket was "tainted" in the back seat by a co-worker). I work less than 10 minutes from there which is awesome. I got a FirstGear mesh-tex 3.0 jacket. I'd love to get the Mesh-Tex overpants, but they are just too high. | ||
| Ezblast |
Jake - once you get the bug figured out your into smooth sailing - don't quit new - its the easiest motor to work on, just takes a bit of persistence. EZ | ||
| Bubs |
Hey, I am just being driven off the wall by the way the Harley shop left this thing. It will barely stay running, it vibrates everything loose and I can't find the cause. I really don't want to drive a 100 mile round trip just to go drop the bike off at a dealer who may just as well screw the thing up even more and charge me for it. I am going to head outside and disassemble the thing for the third time. | ||
| Awf_hand |
Hey Bubs, I was where you are now with a KLR 650. It was a great bike until it was broken. Now it's gone. The crummy thing about the 'net is that you're bike is just a few rows of text to us, but its everything to you. We can't hear it or stand next to it. You can pull the case cover off the left side of the engine to get a look at the primary chain. I'd start there, otherwise you're playing whack-a-mole blindfolded. Get that chain set the way it is supposed to be. You'll easily see if it looks right or floppy or too tight. -Too tight will kill your idle. Next is the carb. I'd take a simple 1970's vintage Mikuni with a manual choke over one of these things anyday (those who know them will agree), but it's what we've got. Make sure your idle speed is set to a proper RPM, too low will kill your idle. Make sure your idle jet doesn't have dirt in it. That will kill your idle. Do you have a service manual? That will help you get the carb apart if needed. If you're throwing in the towel, well, maybe it's time, or maybe you're just a few screw turns away from a decent running machine. | ||
| Bubs |
If there isn't anything I can simply adjust, then I have to take it back to the Harley shop and get it fixed right, because then they screwed it up. I just finished taking it apart for the third time, and I cannot find anything wrong. Ground looks fine, isolators look fine, everything looks normal. This is really pissing me off.  | ||
| Reuel |
I'm wondering what they did. If you're willing to look under the ignition module, pull the cover off the cam gears after you turn it to TDC and see if they got the cams in wrong. One or two teeth off can make a heck of a vibration and make it undriveable, too. | ||
| Bubs |
Yeah, that is beyond my ability. I am taking the bike back to the dealer tomorrow and making them look at it. If they try charging me for the job, they can keep the damn thing for all I care at this point. | ||
| Indybuell |
Sell it. Try again in the spring. This should be fun. |
