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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Oil the "Viscous" Truth » Archive through August 06, 2008 « Previous Next »

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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i dont know about the oil leaks but i just ordered a pair of pirelli mt75's for 120 shipped. so 260 for mounting and balancing is a little steep id say.

i would get a parts book and a service manual.
then you could do just about everything urself. thats what i'm doing. i'm just paying for mounting and balancing at a local "one off" bike shop. 25 bucks a wheel.
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Reuel
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What did I just tell you?

The swing arm does not leak. There's nothing to leak. Check the hoses that are involved with changing your oil. Get down there and look at it! Clean it up really well, then look for the source of the oil.

Two tires, MT-75, $130, ordered, mounted, balanced by a local shop. Go to the Yellow Pages and look at local MC shops that don't have HD on the window.
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Blasst
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry Reuel, I was skimming the thread and must have missed it.

What about the rebuild of the rear brakes? Is that sound true?}
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Reuel
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First, find and fix the leak. Then, ride and see if the brake disk loses its slickness. I think the oil would eventually burn off, and the brake would work again, but I'm not sure. If you scrub the disk with dish washing soap and water, you should be able to get the oil off. The pads might be a different story. I think you can get them for $38 or less, depending on the source.

What are the individual charges? Are they charging more to rebuild the brake caliper than what a new one would cost? I didn't know that oil would damage the caliper itself.

So, go out to your Blast, find the leak, and go up until you find its source. If it's just hoses, drain your oil and get new hoses. That's most likely the problem. The plugs at the end of the hoses have little metal clips. If there aren't any clips, that could be related to the leak.

I really want to see an itemized list of what they want to fix that would exceed the value of the bike itself. (My local idiotship figures my Blast had a value of $1200...) What's the name and location of this place?

Oh--if it sounds like I'm ragging on you, I'm just kidding.

(Message edited by reuel on June 03, 2008)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
You'll have to remove the wheels yourself to get most of the savings.

Rear brake: clean it off with Brakekleen (brake parts cleaner). It may harm the paint though.The rear brake doesnt do much on a Blast, the front brake really does all the work. To spend a whole lot of money on the rear is a waste. If its really bad you'll have to take the brake pads out and spray them. Its only a really big deal if the oil soaked brake pads cause the rear to lock up (very doubtful).

If you are somewhat handy with tools follow the above advice. If you cant even drive a nail, then we'll help you not get ripped off.



Taking the Blast to a Harley dealership is like taking an old VW to a Porsche dealer.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS Do Not replace the tires with Dunlops!
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blaast,
Seeing you live in A2, I have sent you an email
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Blasst
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 01:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Twisty- I'm going to grab a parts and service manual as soon as I can!
From what I've read here $380 sounded WAY to high for tires w/mounting and balancing. MT75's look like a winner to me.

Reuel & Gearheaderiko- On my next day off I'm going to try and find out the source of the leak and go from there. Thanks for the helpful advice and info! Wish me luck! I'm not very mechanical but ask me to design you a movie theater in your house, I'm your man!

The HD dealer never gave me a itemized list, just a phone call with the ridiculous news.

Swampy- just sent you a email

I love this website!

THANKS GUYS!!!
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Reuel
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 07:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe they just didn't want to deal with a Buell Blast, so they did what they could to scare you away.
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Blasst
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think that also but I really think they wanted to sell me one of their bikes since they had like 5-6 on the showroom floor.

Right now I'm waiting on a service manual in the mail then I'll start looking for that stupid oil leak.

I also bought some MT75's at motorcycle superstore for $116 for fronts and rears shipped. It was the cheapest price I could find online. What do you guys think about $90 to mount and balance?

Sometime this summer I have to make my way over to swampy's to give me some pointers on keeping my blast in tip top shape...

Thanks again guys!
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Swampy
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blaast,
DO NOT pay $90 to mount and balance.

I'm telling you "Bring it to my house and I will show you how to do it for free!"

Just email me and we can make arrangements.

For $90 I will come to your house and do it in your driveway!
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Blasst
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

swampy...emailed..
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Luckyduck
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, got mine back from compression and leak down testing to see why it spits out so much oil.

Compression was 160psi, so that is not the cause. Leakdown was good, too. They did point out the obvious that the PCV vent let oil run down the front of the engine.

The service guys pretty much told me that if you drive a Buell, it will probably burn a lot of oil. Their Blasts (they own 3 between them) use less oil than mine, but are not driven nearly as hard. The advice was just to carry the quart of oil and if going more than a couple hundred miles, carry 2.

I guess that is the best I can do.

Thanks for the help, even if it didn't work out.

Paul
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since your going to be buying oil anyway, are you at least going to try heavier oil? You've got nothing to lose (and everything to gain)!
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If all is good with the piston-to-cylinder situation, I'd check the PCV situation next.
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Luckyduck
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Erik,

Yes with the heavier oil. Right now we are having Biblical rains, so there isn't much riding. At least it gives me time to improvise a better (BIGGER) catch can. The new PVC parts are on order.

Speaking of Biblical flooding. Yesterday I saw a barge stuck up against the bridge over the Mississippi with a crane on the tug to dig the corn out of it so they could get it off. The other 14 barges attached to the tug went on down river and had to be rounded up. They are closing some of the river to barges for a couple days. It is a good thing to live on top of a hill!

Well, another line of lighting is just crashing over here, so I am going to unplug for the evening.

Paul
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Xenoishly
Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey this is an awesome forum! I just bought an 01 blaster and I have a few questions, mostly oily ones.

Which oil is best for long trips across the states in the summer, when it's likely to be hotter than 70 on average, but occasionally cooler?

How do I know if my crappy paper rocker gasket has been replaced? SHe's only got 4000 miles...

Is it actually better to use only HD oil?

Thanks
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Welcome to the Thumper Forum Xenoishly!
I will recommend that you use a Full Synthetic 20W-50 oil.

At 4000 miles, if the rocker box gaskets aren't leaking they are probably already steel. You can actually feel them if you know where to look. You can feel them under the rocker box.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Reuel
Posted on Friday, June 20, 2008 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple 20W50 (or 15W50) are at the top of a lot of people's lists for best oil.
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Bonesdl1
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi guys, I'm getting ready to do an oil change and am going to go with something other the the overpriced HD oils. Am I reading everything correctly that I do not need to use a oil specifically made for diesel engines if I go with a quality synthetic oil?
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes! You can also go with high-quality 20W50 natural oil.

(Message edited by reuel on June 27, 2008)
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Toniportray
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone ever tried this SeaFoam engine cleaner that everyone is going mad about? I'm not convinced that it really does anything except make a bunch of smoke from burning the oils in the product. It supposedly removes unwanted carbon deposits from the cylinder cavity (and anywhere else you put it). Sounds like a bunch of placebo effects to me, but maybe someone here has some input about such products...
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know - a lot of pro's recommend it for cleaning carbon off your cylinder, but a few extra doses of water can help that also - so is it any better - can't say - faster - yes.
EZ
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Bitbear
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run a tank of it -- using directions on the can for correct proportion of additive to gas -- each spring when I bring my bike out of winter hibernation. I can't say I noticed any particular benefit but it certainly hasn't hurt anything.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your oil filter mounts!
Real simple to check when the filter is off: If its spins using your fingers, its loose!
I dont know how common this is, but I just changed the filter and found the oil filter mount loose! Possibly a rare occurrence, but I did have a mount come completely off once attached to an over tightened filter. This filter wasnt overly tight, but who knows how many were in the first 12,000 miles before I got this Blast!

The torque spec is really low so dont crank it on, 8-12 FT lbs and use blue Loctite.
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Dankno
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's one... As far as volume of oil and location, what is the difference between a rocker box gasket that has gone south, or a "Woah, that was too much oil at once" (like 1/3 of a quart... whoops...)while topping off and now its getting blown out? It doesn't seem to bad at 45ish on the streets but at high RPM, 70-80mph on the free way, it seems to gush out. The stock intake gets coated and today I noticed that the front of the jug seems to be getting an oil shower. Any ideas...
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Berkshire
Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 02:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At higher RPMs more oil is getting pumped to the head. The front leak is probably the oil return o-ring (aka "cylinder stud o-ring, 26432-76A)

When you say the "intake" gets coated, do you mean the air filter/box, or the metal intake "manifold" that connects das carb & das boot to the head?

The way to find a leak is to clean everything up thoroughly so there is no sign of leakage, then ride until the leak FIRST starts to show - then it will be obvious where it's coming from.
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Toniportray
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 03:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just a heads up to money-conscious consumers; This month CSK Auto (Checker, Kragen, etc.) has 6 quarts of Valvoline Full Synthetic Oil on rebate for $.99 a quart. I've been using this 20w50 synthetic stuff for quite a while and I really like it. The synthetic oil doesn't burn up so fast as the dino-DNA does. I despise CSK Auto for lousy customer service and bad prices (hence I'm not speaking in favor of the company or upselling), but I do like the oil rebate ads they offer occasionally.

$1 a quart for full synthetic makes me aroused. Unfortunately, the limit is 6 quarts per month. Get your buddies in there though and get them to send in rebates under their name.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Valvoline-a personal favourite. Thanks for the heads up. Thats a very good deal. (I'm still using Redline though!)
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