Author |
Message |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 05:33 pm: |
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I have some on order from Chaparral... back ordered since early August and still waiting... but they were only $14.00 |
Roysbuell
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 01:14 pm: |
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$14.00? are they made well? Safe? |
Evilbetty
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 01:23 pm: |
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Apparently... A lot of guys here are running them... Bikemaster Handlebars from Chaparral |
Johnnymac
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 01:35 pm: |
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I have them on mine and they rock! Nice and solid. Simple, well made, and easy to install. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 04:12 pm: |
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I run them - modified - on my daily rider! EZ |
Indybuell
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 10:34 pm: |
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talked to the local shop, and they may be on back order for a while. Anyone try the drag bars? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 10:37 pm: |
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Won't lock. Thats a big company - I'm sure somebody has them in stock - just probably more than Chaparral. EZ |
Indybuell
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 08:25 am: |
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My local bike shop has had them on order for about 6 weeks. I figured the drags wouldn't clear the tank to lock. Oh, well, I ordered some superbike bars, hopefully they will be in soon! BTW, changed my own tires last night to the Pirelli MT75's. Great tire. I couldn't believe how easy it was. |
Indybuell
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 10:38 am: |
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Quick Question, how much air are you guys/girls putting in the MT75's? Service manual says 28 front 32 rear, but that's for the dunlops. The MT75's sidewalls indicate they need more air. I went with 34 front 34 rear. I add about 240 lbs to the bike as a rider. |
Awf_hand
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 10:47 am: |
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My bike won't idle again and backfires more than it should. It's a 2007 with less than 5k miles and last time it wouldn't idle, the dealer cleaned the carb for 90$. -That was about 6 weeks ago. It ran great for awhile. Now it's back to not idling and I'm afraid if I go back to the dealer that they'll find more things that they will not turn in for warranty. If I pull the boot, how will I know that it is bad? -Or am I playing whack-a-mole with this bike and that's my first swing? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 11:16 am: |
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First - just try tightening the clamps a bit to see if that solves your problem. Indy - factory pressure is still correct, however, that is not an extreme difference, but if I was planning a set of twisties - I'd bring it down a tad. EZ |
Carlost
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 12:32 pm: |
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Can someone confirm the diameter of the Blast fork tubes? Is it 37mm? I'm thinking about clipons... thanks! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 01:28 pm: |
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37mm it is! EZ |
Rainman
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 03:08 pm: |
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Hey Awf, I had similar issues at 6,000 and replaced the boot. When I pulled the boot off the carb, I found it had cracked and tore almost all the way around. If you haven't done the boot, go ahead. It's so easy a Rainman can do it. |
Bubs
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 06:05 pm: |
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Yeah, it is very easy. Before I took my bike apart to begin working on it myself, the H/D dealership told me that it was a substantial job. I "got off easy" paying $40.00. Jerks. |
Reuel
| Posted on Friday, October 03, 2008 - 07:10 pm: |
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If the clamp isn't tight, but isn't quite leaking, vibrations will eventually let corrosion build up around the metal parts that go into the boot. |
Garlic_sauce
| Posted on Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 07:37 pm: |
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whats up guys is it normal for the bike to idle faster when the bike is hot, like when you get off the highway or just a longer ride? i just got a new boot so its not that i dont think. my brother had a one cylinder enfield and he said that would happen to him but i just wanted to make sure. also what do you guys think about dyno jet carb kits? thanks. |
Reuel
| Posted on Sunday, October 05, 2008 - 09:56 am: |
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It's a fuel/air mixture thing. Check with a tachometer to see if it's doing 1250 RPM. You can also try tweaking the idle air/fuel mixture to see if you can get a more consistent idle. See the carburetor section in the knowledge vault for changing air/fuel mixture. I'd try a little richer first. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, October 05, 2008 - 03:43 pm: |
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Dont waste your money on the Dyno Jet (or any other) kits. For about $12 you can get virtually the same thing with available stock parts. You'll also get the benefit of our experience, since very few of us run the DynoJet and the Dyno Jet numbering is different, you'll have nothing to compare too (IE: you're on your own=more time & $$$$). FWIW: The Dyno Jet kits might be worth the money if you really know what you are doing - you are very good at carb tuning and dont need the benefit of our collective experience. On a 30hp bike the gains over available stock parts are minimal-if you know what you are doing. |
Indybuell
| Posted on Sunday, October 05, 2008 - 09:26 pm: |
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Woot! I passed my MSF class! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, October 06, 2008 - 12:03 am: |
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Xenoishly
| Posted on Monday, October 06, 2008 - 01:37 am: |
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Howdy, I've got a brake question for you. My front brake gives uneven stopping power that changes every 1/2 second or so from regular to weak and back to regular. I thought maybe the rotor was loose or bent, but the time interval doesn't seem to be shorter/longer for different speeds (and it doesn't look bent and isn't loose. I'm not sure about that though... help! |
Indybuell
| Posted on Monday, October 06, 2008 - 10:54 am: |
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Take your brake pads off, super easy, and inspect them. You may also want to take the front wheel completely off and inspect both sides of the rotor. Finally, I would check my brake fluid level in the front brake system. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, October 06, 2008 - 11:25 am: |
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Good Answer! EZ |
Indybuell
| Posted on Monday, October 06, 2008 - 12:22 pm: |
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You know, you change your own tires one time, and you really get a good understanding of how each of these systems work together. |
Blastrider
| Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 04:44 pm: |
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I took my '05 into the dealer with what I thought was a shoe spring rattling around. It turns out it was the whole shoe and the dealer says I should replace the whole motor and tranny. My bike has about 7k on it and so far I've had to replace the motor mount as well. I was wondering if I should have the shoe replaced and ride it till it dies. Any thoughts. |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 04:54 pm: |
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Sounds like a previous adjustment was overly tight. Have you seen inside your transmission? Is there other damage? Really, there are so many things that can be fixed that don't require changing out the whole engine/transmission assembly. I'd say take pictures of the innards with a digital camera and post it here so we can all see what's going on. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 05:17 pm: |
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CONCUR! EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 06:28 pm: |
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll take a look |
Jd110033
| Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 10:02 pm: |
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i just took the cover off of mine, kept rattling/knocking in the primary, and i find out that 1/2 my shoe has desintigrated. checked everything else and everything looks good. just some miner wear on the cover. i think i was pretty damn lucky. now to get a new shoe..... |