| Author |
Message |
    
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 09:28 pm: | 
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Also a link to Rays great explanation on checking and adjusting your timing
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=20164&post=184287#POST184287(A link to the Document stating measures to correct timing problems on late 2000 - early 2001 Blasts - just see the Recall section) and the manual, and you should be set! -
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
edited by ezblast on June 28, 2004 |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 04:51 pm: |
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Timing-I want to advance my timing.Is there an easier way to do this without mounting a degree wheel on the engine?I also would like to avoid moving the timing plate around 'till it sounds right'.Is this what the adjustable ignitions let you do? or is there such a thing as an advance adjustable timing light?Are there extra timing marks on the flywheel?Have I missed a post on this? |
Jprovo
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2003 - 04:25 pm: |
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Erik,
Print up a little protractor that is the same size as the timing plate as glue it to the timing plate. Then make (scribe) a mark on the inside of the cam cover. Once you have set a zero position of the timing, note the zero point on the protractor. You can then adjust the timing from the zero point. Remember, the cam turns half crank speed, so if you turn the module 1 degree, you affect the timing by two degrees.
James |
Aaron
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2003 - 04:52 pm: |
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Yes, absolutely, before you do anything, mark where it's at so you can always get back.
There are a couple of other ways to know how much you're moving it though. For example, the timing plate is 3" in diameter, which is 9.425" circumference. As was mentioned, one revolution of the timing cup is 720 degrees of crank rotation. Therefore each degree of crank rotation is 9.425/720 = .013" of movement out there at the edge of the plate. 5 degrees of movement would be about .065 is all. It don't take much.
Another easy way to move it around and know exactly where you're at is to use a dial-back timing light. A dial-back light doesn't always work well on dual fire twins due to the uneven pulses, but they work great on the Blast.
The real problem with moving the timing around though is the feedback mechanism for knowing whether it hurt or helped. Seat of the pants is notoriously unreliable and too much advance can be really bad for a motor without you even knowing it. My personal recommendation is to put it where the factory says it should be, unless you can put it on a dyno so you can verify for sure that some other place is better. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 12:48 am: |
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Thanks.The 'dial back timing light' seems the way to go cause I really like to know exactly where the timing is at.The two aforementioned ways will be a good place to start,(also good for 'on the road' adj.) but I still want that double check.The exhaust manufacturer (White Bros) states to increase the timing 4 degrees and not to re-jet.Since they are only 8 miles away, I'd like to start tuning with their recommendations first.Still open to suggestions! |
Ldbandit
| | Posted on Friday, August 01, 2003 - 02:00 pm: |
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How much does advancing the ignition help the Blast? Advancing my Bandit 5 degrees made a huge difference with throttle response, but no additional power (which is ok). Will the Blast respond similarly? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 02:00 am: |
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Advancing timing will usually add 'response' to any engine but can cause overheating and detonation.5 degrees may be 'safe'as White Bros recommends 4 degrees with the install of their exhaust. |
Singlethumper
| | Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2004 - 11:27 pm: |
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With help from my friend's brother in law - my 2002 blast is screwed
up. Anybody out there that can tell me how to set the cams? He
popped the cam cover off and now the timing is totally off.
Thanks in advance!
singlethumper
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Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 12:03 am: |
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Read that very first link I posted to another area of the BADWEB - look for Fssnoc2501 - Ray G. holds your answer.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Rmorin128
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 07:58 pm: |
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I'm trying to adjust the timing using the static method in the manual, but when I have the timing mark in the inspection hole with the kickstand up, switch on, and bike in neutral when I rotate the plate the LED doesn't light up. I've tried rotating the plate through the entire range but nothing happens. Is the module defective or have I missed something? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Russ |
Aaron
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:19 pm: |
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Handlebar switch on?
Correct TDC? There are two of them. You need the one at the end of the compression stroke/beginning of the power stroke.
Pull the plate off and look at the position of the window on the rotorwith respect to the position of the pickup on the plate. If it's 180 degrees away, you're on the wrong tdc. |
Rmorin128
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 10:13 pm: |
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Forgot to mention that the handlebar switch was on. Thanks for the hint Aaron. I see what you're talking about, it did the trick. It also gave me an idea for how to do the process from the right side of the bike only. Instead of putting your finger over the sparkplug hole and feel for escaping air, remove the plate from the bike so you can see the rotor. Turn the rear wheel in the direction of travel until you see the cutout in the rotor approach the 2 o'clock position and then start to watch for the timing mark in the window. When the timing mark on the flywheel is in the center of the timing inspection hole, re-attatch the plate and finish the process according to the manual.
For What It's Worth,
Russ |
Aaron
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 10:53 pm: |
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Yup. That's an especially good way to do it on a Blast, where you practically have to remove the tank to get to the spark plug. |
Rmorin128
| | Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 04:36 am: |
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Maybe you could give me a hint on fine tuning. After following the instructions in the manual, it seems to run a little rough. It looks like there was probably nothing wrong with the timing to begin with. I followed the process in the manual when it said to slowly rotate the plate until the LED lights up, but noticed that there's a huge amount of rotation in that plate where the module will tell the bike to fire. I was able to rotate that plate to the limit and the LED never went out again. Is there a better way than trial and error? Timing is picky stuff and I'd like to get it right. I don't have and have never used a timing light, is there a way to get it right without using one?
Thanks,
Russ
BTW, you'd want to remove the sparkplug anyway to avoid fighting the compression while rotating the rear wheel. I've found that using a 5/8" box end wrench lets you remove the stock Harley plug without tearing the tank off. I've never torqued spark plugs in my life, I just know not to overtighten them. |
Aaron
| | Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 08:20 am: |
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I set it with a dyno, works much better than a light. |
Rmorin128
| | Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 03:16 pm: |
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The only kind of dyno that I've ever heard of is the kind you drive your bike/car onto. Is there a handheld type and where can I find out more about it?
Thanks,
Russ |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 10:03 pm: |
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Russ,
Aaron means that he dialed in his timing according to the setting that produced the best power as tested on his dynamometer. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 09:31 am: |
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OK, I found the right place to ask,
Static timing is set at the TDC cut out slot on the flywheel, or the timing dots on the flywheel? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 12:45 pm: |
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If I remember correctly it is the dots - If I'm wrong - someone speak up! - please
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 09:03 pm: |
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If it is the dots, then the manual is wrong! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 02:02 am: |
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Manuals right - the procedure is simular to the one of Ray's and Aaron's descriptions - Sorry - busy -
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
(Message edited by ezblast on June 24, 2005) |
Jprovo
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 08:19 am: |
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Swampy,
I believe that you are right, you should be timing it with the dots lined up, not the line.
If I remember correctly my manual and the real world disagree on this. I'll confirm it this weekend.
James |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 10:15 am: |
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Don't you line it up at the dots and adjust from there till the light is on?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 10:47 am: |
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Great, I don't have the new ignition module yet, when I took the old one out I checked it and the LED came on way before the TDC line, I did not see if it came on at the timing dots though.
I can slip it all back together and find out pretty easy, its gonna be 90+ today here at at the swamp so I gotta get busy before it gets too hot. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 03:04 pm: |
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OK, this is what I'm thinking. When static timing the ignition module is just shutting off power to the LED at TDC. I checked both the red Blast and the yellow one and thats when both of the LEDs shut off, just after TDC. The LED turns on long before the two timing dots apear in the timing window. There is no mechanical advance mechanism on the Blast. These ignition modules control lots more than a conventional CDI unit where you can static time them to the timing marks and the mechanical advance takes over from there. When I get the new module I will static time it to TDC with the LED and let you all know. Probably Wednesday. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 02:28 am: |
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I did adjust it the static method when I installed a new module, but even the manual states to adjust it with a timing light at the earliest convenience (which I did).
So realistically, adjust it till it starts, then use a timing light. Its a single cylinder, not much can go wrong. |
Swampy
| | Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 10:04 pm: |
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OK, I got it done! And it runs the way it's supposed to.....I am so happy......
I put the new ignition module in today(Ordered Thursday from Stone MT! Did I tell you those guys...er girls are FAST) Static timed it so The LED just shuts off when the TDC line Goes past center in the timing window. Starts and runs fine....no more backfires, pops, or loss of power. The bike had a problem the last year or two, it felt like the belt was running up on the pulley or like the primary chain suddenly got tight....NO MORE! It finally runs like it is supposed to and I can't be happier! I believe that the ignition module was going to a different advance curve when it was losing power like it was, BUT NO MORE! Soon as I got it home the Big Kid uncorked a couple of spray bombs and I'll post some pictures when I get it all back together tomorrow. |
Marijane0569
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 01:55 am: |
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Ok, Maybe I'm blind again but I can't seem to find the advance specs for my Blast in the S.M.
Last night I set the timing to 5.5-6 degrees advanced (using the little dots in the flywheel), I also set the slow idle to 1150 rpm, fast idle is somewheres up over 2000(for about 35 seconds) as of 21:55 tonight. She seems to fire up fine when cold (if we can really call 65-75 degrees cold), I plan to fire her up first thing in the morning and double check the idle both fast and slow. Since doing the jets over the weekend I have not been able to take her out for a true test ride. Looks like that will happen Monday eve on my way home; God I hope I got the timing set right. Ok I found the idle and timing specs. They do make it really simple don't they??? The S.M. states that the idle should be at 1200, and that the timing marks (two dots) should be centered. Ok. I think that I might be golden on this for now. I probly will back the advance down to about 3.5-4.5 degrees Tues. Not sure right now MUST TEST RIDE FIRST!!!
Thanks
"MJ" |
Mad_chicken
| | Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 01:31 am: |
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Hello Fellow Thumpers!
Long time listener, first time caller. (I've always wanted to say that  )
So to get right to it- I've been blasting every day since last April (when I got the bike). All was good until last week on a long hard ride I noticed oil spatter all over everything. After much appreciated info from you all I replace the rocker gaskets and all was fine, Until- I took it out after the repair to get it hot and check the oil. Upon my return I noticed the header was starting to glow orange. The bike was running the same as it always has but I rarely ride @ night & have never noticed this before. I know that on a 4-stroke engine that is usually caused by timing. I ordered a repair manual from the nearest dealer, but haven't seen it yet. In the meanwhile I searched all over this sight for a procedure and found EZ's link to another thread that outlined how to check/ adjust timing. What I can't figure is where the sight plugs are, and how the module actually 'moves'. Also- what is this led light I keep hearing about. Is it a timing light, or some sort of tool I'll need to purchase?
Any help would be much appreciated as I cant stand not riding, and am afraid of the repercussions if I do at this point. |
Mad_chicken
| | Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 02:06 am: |
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Okay- I dug deeper and found the module and the led. I also found the plug and the marks on the flywheel. My next question is can you use a timing light and just set the timing like a regular car? If so, (and this has probably already been answered) Where should I set it with my mods? On most cars the pulley has several marks on it for the average timing used, what would you use for the bike?
Thanks Again! |
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