| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Tire discussions should go here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/92908.html?1218848732 | ||
| Reuel |
Go there and look at the Avon thread. AM26 Roadrider is probably your best bet. I have 34K on my 2001, and still on the original battery, too! When I got it, it had 1 mile on it. (Message edited by reuel on August 20, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
AM26 - too hard - stick with the Pirelli for stock sizes. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
I have an Avon AM26 in stock size for the rear of the Big Kids Blast when he wears out the AM63 in the biggie size. Also, today I was driving through Charlotte, MI. and spotted a kid on a Firebolt. I stopped and talked to him and he said he started on a Blast and he frequents the Badweb, his I.D. is Blackblast. Indybuell, I sent you a PM last night. | ||
| Indybuell |
Swamp, I got it. I responded. | ||
| Indybuell |
Anyone tried Duplicolor's High Heat product? I am thinking I may do that, then shell out $150 to ceramic coat my pipe. Looks like the Duplicolor is a spray on ceramic coating thats good to 600 degrees. That should work, right? | ||
| Indybuell |
I haven't been able to ride in like 8 days now..... I'm losing my mind.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Sorry - you want the 1200 degree Ceramic Header paint by Duplicolor or Rustoleum Black BBQ paint. I know the feeling thats why I got a second one - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 22, 2008) | ||
| Fast1075 |
The Duplicolor is the best paint, but it's still paint, it will burn off eventually. Ceramic coat is permanent unless you scratch it up so moisture can get under it. | ||
| Indybuell |
"Shifter Peg assembly is on backorder until 9/15" - Dealer. WTF  } | ||
| Ezblast |
This a bike down situation - see if they can get it from another dealer - they have the technology - lol EZ | ||
| Awf_hand |
In other words Indybuell, the dealership wants to wait until they have a whole pile of items to order from Buell -maybe more to come- and they will order them all when they get good and ready. I had a ski dealer tell me it would be 4-6 weeks to get new skis for me when mine delaminated under warranty. That didn't leave much winter to use them. I called the manufacturer and told them the scoop. I had new skis waiting for me the next day. I'd try another dealer if'n I was you... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The peg can be replaced with a bolt and you can install the peg when it comes in. 9/15 maybe! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS after 9/15, the only summer you'll have left, is Indian. | ||
| Felicita |
Awf_hand - I'm having the same issue with our CA friend Skip F - It has been two months since I ordered decals and still don't have them. Their parts dept is leaving much to be desired... Ordered some decals in June (XB12S)- wanted black and silver - when they came in, I got orange. They ordered again - when they came in, I got all black. They ordered again - they said "It wasn't our fault this time" as they received stickers. They ordered again (three weeks ago) - I call and they say the RMA hasn't been completed and should be in another week and a half - it will take another week and a half on top of the RMA approval to get the darned decals in. Grrrr. Now mind, I have called to get the status of each order - never have they called me. I soooo want to complain to Skip. These are stupid $30 decals! Are they this bad with real parts? (sorry for ranting) I still have the orange BTW - but I really don't want a Halloween bike  (Message edited by felicita on August 24, 2008) | ||
| Berkshire |
The orange & black XB's look good - I wonder if there's a clear orange paint available to do the wheels? | ||
| Indybuell |
All I went to Buell of Bloomington (BADWEB SPONSOR) that is about 40 miles away from my house. Wow. Talk about night and day. They could actually spell Buell there. They have a Rider's Edge program and had 3 peg assemblies in stock. I picked one up. Bike is back up and running. I will never do business with the local shop again. They had 4 racks of Buell apparel, including tons of jackets etc. I still want the mesh riding jacket though. Looks like its been on backorder since it was released. 11/15 ship date I think. By then the bike will be put away for storage. Swamp - I ended up banging the old brackets back into shape, and sending the new brackets back. Bottom Line - Buell of Bloomington Indiana, worth the drive. They really saved me a lot of greif. | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Kustomklassix |
HELP!! BadWebbers' unite!! LoL, I have always wanted to say that. I MIGHT have a serious problem kids. I would have posted this in the KV 'Diagnosing Problems' section but as of right now ma Blast is my only transport and it might be in trouble. Last fall I had the bike in 1001 pieces, I mean EVERYTHING dissasembled/apart, and this summer got it all back together and running. Good. But since it all came back together I am now topping out at 70~75 where as before I could hit 90 easily and bounce off the rev limiter at 96 without much drama. Bad. It runs up speed as quick as always (maybe even quicker...lol) but as soon as I hit 65~70 I get stuck in a tar pit and acceleration becomes a marathon. It's not that I'm hitting the rev limiter or bogging or anything, it just won't go any further. Also, not all the time, but more frequently the more I ride, I will be 3/4 to full throttle accelerating (has happened in all gears except 5th) when engine power, momentum, everything will cut out like I hit a wall, foreward progress just stops (quickly if I may add, almost like I even gave it some brakes). If I let off the throttle and come back on it's fine. The problem I am having that scares me moreso than those though, is that also sometimes when I start off from a stop, as I let out the clutch the bike will start to move but then there is a big THUNKish sound, the bike jerks, and I keep going. Until today it hasn't really slowed me down, but as I was leaving a stop, for a second after the THUNK, I stopped moving completely (no power transfer...?) and then kept going. I have basically tried most of the advice on what to do about the top-speed loss to no avail, and my transmission/primary? problems are getting worse...I'ma in trouble. 1. Back brake NOT dragging (free-spinning with wheel off ground) 2.Primary NOT too tight (I didn't touch or do anything with it, just had cover off to inspect gasket and change oil) 3.Fuel line and breather NOT crimped or blocked (both are completely clear) 4.Das boot NOT cracked (I checked, didn't see any, and even put on a brand new one just in case) 5.Oil is fine 20w50 Honda Synth for air cooled (the only thing unsure of is too much, but I highly doubt?) 6.Spark plug ok, nice caramel color 7.Vacum piston fine 8.Ignition plug wire fine and module should be fine (no spiratic behavior like others have shown) Do I run any risk of hurting things catastrophically if I keep riding? I am running out of ideas here and ANY help at all would be GREATLY appreciated. My first day of college is tomorow (nvm, I meant TODAY!! EEKGADS!!) and I would hate to have to bum a ride off me mum  . Thanks everyone for the help!! (Message edited by kustomklassix on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
Full throttle, and letting off the throttle makes it seem to get some power back, indicates a lean condition. Check the jets, needle, idle screw, etc. It might be an ignition/TPS problem, but the brick wall symptom is new to me. The THUNK thing: Does the engine seem to speed up, and grab with a jolt? If so, it sounds like the clutch is slipping. Mine does it on cold days until it warms up. If not, it could be a backfire, which points to the same problem you're having with hitting a brick wall. If both symptoms are related, it could likely be a timing issue. | ||
| Kustomklassix |
That could all very well be the case...  ...I will check for debris ect. in the jets and needles today. With the THUNK, the engine doesn't really speed up, it more or less keeps on at the same RPM, just a big THUNK sound and a small jolt that could be the clutch beginning to slip? That may actually be it seeing as how yesterday it hindered forward motion completely. Initially I actually thought/felt like, it was something in the trans like the gears locking in completely...? If my timing is off...hey, hold on a sec...when I put my cams back in I was only 97% sure that I had them right...COULD THAT BE IT?? If I'm 1 or 2 teeth off, could that explain more low torque, but less top-end...?? If it is a backfire or a timing issue, what might I check or do about it? Thanks again Reuel, you've pointed out a few more options! I'll get back to you all later and share my findings! | ||
| Ezblast |
Primary oil high? - for the clutch grabbing. The other issue - the wall - seems like it may be a timing issue - too retarded or advanced. That would be my first thing to check. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
2 teeth can make a difference. | ||
| Reuel |
Ha! One tooth can make a difference! That could be everything right there. | ||
| Kustomklassix |
EZ - I doubt the oil is to high, I pinched a cut in the gasket when I put the cover back on and I have a very slow but constant drip  Thanks for the help everyone, I'm heading out to check that all parts of the carb are clean first, then I will probably do timing re-adjustments. Although...I DO like the extra torque down low...and speed limits are capped at 75...lol. If the cams are a tad bit off though, will it hurt the engine in the long run or is it "essentially" like just getting a different set of cams? And is it just me or does anybody else love the rhythmic clacking that floats out of the rocker box?  | ||
| Ezblast |
Primary too loose - lol - thats part of the problem and what the clacking is - I get a slight clacking from SS steel seats and titanium valves - stock or XB stock should have no noise, any other clacking from up there would be a partially stuck lifter or detonation - try sea foam - lol - I suspect the sound is actually floating up from the primary and why your shifting is a bit rough. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Aw, but I like the clack LoL, well I suppose I'll tighten that up a bit then. Also, what do I do/how do I use the sea foam, like where do I spray/put it? | ||
| Ezblast |
I followed the instructions on the bottle, both for the lifter noise, adding to oil - it did disappear never to return, and adding it to the fuel to clean carbon deposits - I know quite a few shops in the Bay area that use it just as a matter of course - its a bit like Cheveron gas to the 10nth power - EZ | ||
| Swampy |
One tooth off will change how it runs.... Advanced helps the low end, retarded helps the top, generally speaking that is. | ||
| Thump |
Warning- Possible rant below.... Had a question for all of you old timers out there (and I do mean that with the utmost respect  ) I was hoping you guys could help me figure out what is going on and/or give me some advice about how best to deal with this. I love the bike and got a good deal, I just want it fixed so I can ride! Since getting my '07 on the last day of May my bike has been in the service dept. for over a month total due to an oil leak. I have taken it in 3 times total (once was for a service, but it still had the leak). The first two times the technician reported that they "...degreased bike and took for an extended test ride. No evidence of leak found after ride." On the second time I took the repair order and wiped the leaking oil on the page that declared no 'evidence'. I then took the page into the service dept. and about 2 1/2 hours later got my bike back and a statement from the tech about "..if it leaks anymore we'll put in a new adjuster nut" Now my thought at the time was okay then, why didn't you just do that when you had my bike ...But I digress he is the trained tech, not me. So of course it leaked again and took it in for round 3. The resolution from the repair order states: "The oil leak appears to be coming from primary adjuster nut with nylock. leaned off. Test rode for 8 miles and found small drip and the start of a weep. Tech already tightened and torqued and test rode again. R&R primary adjuster nut and Jam nut. Test rode bike 10 min. and no leak. That was on 8/14 and it began to leak again sometime last week. I don't want to be that annoying person who is always bringing their bike in because it is not 'perfect' or the slightest thing goes wrong. But it feels to me that this is getting ridiculous. The time off work, arranging rides and paying for gas, not to mention not having my bike for 1/3 of the summer is begining to add up. Am I just asking too much for my new Buell/(hd) not to leak oil begining the 1st week I bought it? Rant over, any advice on the best way to handle the situation is greatly appreciated! |
