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Ezblast
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/thumbnails/20331.jpg)
| Posted on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 09:30 pm: |
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Well the site I posted - though hosted by Yahoo - is not a group, and should work fine - the reason people have a hard time with the group sites is because Yahoo only allows so much up and downloading per day per group per size of group - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 05:58 pm: |
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Okay, so I'm getting ready to go back together, the parts are in, but what can I use to clean the primary out really well first? I was thinking carb cleaner, but I'm not sure, or maybe just wipe it down. Then i'm thinking the install like this... 1. put the clutch ball and ramp assembly thinger back on. 2. screw clutch cable into primary cover 3. attach cable to ball and ramp, fit case on and put hex bolts in 4. torque hex bolts, put primary fluid, install clutch cover, then start it and make sure everything is cool before I put the peg assembly back on. Anyone see anything I might be missing? |
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Jprovo
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/thumbnails/19527.jpg)
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 06:28 pm: |
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Don't forget to adjust the promary chain! Wash the cover out with dishsoap and water, then blow it dry with compressed air. Carb Cleaner will probably work, but I'd be concerned about damaging the finish. |
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Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 06:39 pm: |
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Oh yeah, the primary chains one of those later things....but I was talking about like cleaning inside, like the clutch drum and primary chain, the primary cover is brand new. |
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 08:42 pm: |
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I prefer Brake Parts Cleaner. Its safe on clutch discs and just about everything ,leaves little residue (by design) and usually doesnt discolor paint. As far as assembly, follow the manual! |
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Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 09:14 pm: |
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I wiped it out, i had a tarp over the bike and it ...'shed' blue bits onto the primary chain, I WD-40'd it, then wiped it again and blasted it real good with canned air...it looks tip top. |
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Blaster_s
| Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 09:09 pm: |
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Getting that box of rocks sounds again just above idle. Should I make an appointment to have the primary adjusted? |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 11:03 pm: |
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yes |
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Blaster_s
| Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 05:09 pm: |
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Do you think it's ok to ride this week or will it hurt the engine if I ride say more than 100 miles? |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 05:57 pm: |
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you'll be fine - it just wears the shoe faster - I just replaced mine - no biggie. GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Blaster_s
| Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 10:09 pm: |
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What do you mean by "shoe" ? |
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Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 01:10 am: |
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Where the primary adjuster bolt threads into the primary, that bolt pushes up the adjuster 'shoe' it's a piece of plastic that puts tension on the primary chain. This is why your tension becomes loose on the primary, the surface of the shoe is being worn away over time by the friction from the chain, so there is tension being lost. I don't know exactly how long the shoe does last, but it's a very easy thing to replace. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 01:17 am: |
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The lower chain tensioner shoe - in your primary case - keeps very light constant tension on your primary chain through your primary adjustment screw and constant spring tension - mine was looking a tad worn when I had last checked it and told myself to replace it after the SLO ride - and I did - pretty easy thing to do really - you get 15,000 on your bike riding her hard - you start to consider little preventive stuff like that, steel braided lines, Iridium plugs - the head has about 7000 before I'll have to consider new springs and new guides - stepped of course - may up the anti on valve size and more head work as well - As James well told me - ride her like ya stole her! - been doing my best to keep that in mind - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Blaster_s
| Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 06:05 am: |
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Thanks for the info guys...I have about 5000 miles right now. |
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Dustyjacket
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 05:49 pm: |
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I just did the "adjust by ear" method. While I was tightening the adjustment screw, the idle would slow down a tad just before I started to feel the chain rubbing over the screw. Then I backed out 1/3rd turn and the idle speeded up at tad and I could no longer feel the chain rubbing over the shoe. That is where I locked the jam nut. Question is: shouldn't I feel the chain rubbing the shoe at all times? |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 07:05 pm: |
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no |
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Dustyjacket
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 08:41 pm: |
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So, I am OK? Cool. EZ - thank you for all your help in this, and for all the help you've given others. I don't see how you could use a torque wrench without removing the muffler. (Message edited by dustyjacket on June 12, 2005) |
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Jprovo
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 09:15 pm: |
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You're fine. The primary chain shoe is spring tenisoned, the screw you are adjusting is putting more tension on the spring... The only way to use a torque wrench in there is with a Crow's Foot. James |
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Dustyjacket
| Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 09:36 pm: |
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So, that is what they are called! I "think" I can use my 25 inch-pound torque wrench and back it off one click (pound) which should be 24 inch-pounds, torque the chain, then back off 8 flats, the try the adjust by ear thing and see how close they are....... |
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Jugallo94
| Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 11:00 am: |
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My bike slipped out of 3rd gear yesterday, I think my primary need adjustment. Do I need to remove anything or can I just adjust the primary to the specs and be good to go. |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 11:28 am: |
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See the beginning of this topic for correct adjustment - the factory adjustment is a bit tight - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/vader.gif) |
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Jugallo94
| Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 12:10 pm: |
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Thanks I will be adjusting it tonight. |
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Wsplrll
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 08:00 am: |
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Quick question on the adjustment - "Tighten chain limiting screw to 24 in/lbs Back-off chain limiting screw 3/4 turn- 41/2 'flats' Practical note: 3 to 5 flats more (8 flats out from torque spec is usually golden)is the experienced recommendation by many" Does that mean anywhere from a total from tight - of 7-1/2 flats to 9- 1/2 ( 8 flats usually golden? " Just want to make sure. thanks! |
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Jprovo
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 08:31 am: |
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Yes - You should be fine with a 7 1/2 - 9 1/2" flat range. I still tune it by ear though. My pet peeve is, unless you check multiple points, how will you know that you've adjusted the promary at the loosest spot or the tightest spot? James |
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Wsplrll
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 12:08 pm: |
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How do you check multiple spots? |
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Sarodude
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 12:17 pm: |
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William- James' recommendation is to just do it with the motor running. That's how I do it too. Warmed up bike, running motor, 2 wrenches, and my ear. Too tight and you'll hear more whine and the idle will begin to drop - indicating you're wasting power through friction & noise. Too loose and you'll hear a knocking of sorts. Doesn't sound like skeleton porn to me - more like a tiny hammer clunking the primary cover from the inside. Just try some different settings and see what works for you. Just don't go grossly tight or loose. -Saro |
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Wsplrll
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 01:55 pm: |
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Sounds good. Thanks |
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Jprovo
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 02:36 pm: |
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Saro said it better than I could. That's the way I adjust my primary. You could check it in multiple spots by putting the bike and gear and moving turning the engine over to various positions, this will put the primaary chain in a few locations to check. It's like adjusting a chain on a chain drive bike, you never check just one spot, you spin the wheel aroung and adjust it at the tightest location. James |
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Wsplrll
| Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 06:05 pm: |
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Thanks James and Saro - I will let you know how it goes. |
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Xgecko
| Posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 03:47 pm: |
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well I tried the 24lbs and back out x# Flats....sounded like a$$. Ended up starting the bike and tuning by ear like James said....Funny thing is I think I only ended up tightening it about 6 flats from the starting point, but then I knew I needed to tighten it up a bit its been 6000 miles since the last time I adjusted my Primary |