| Author | Message | ||
     Xgecko |
tooo big | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
'Bigger' tires add stability to a point. The rim width should match the tire. The bigger the tires on the same skinny rim will add INstability. Some will not ever notice the instability only the added stability. However, the faster riders will notice it as the mismatched rim/tire combination will become more unstable during hard cornering.Bigger tires can also hurt ride quality. Its all about balance. Your size and how you ride will dictate exactly what you can get away with in terms of tire size (along with not all tire brands/models being created equal and what you can actually fit on a Blast). Dummkauff: Actual Blast recommended tires in stock sizes are limited. Most of the non-stock sizes that fit are scooter ties. So look in the scooter tire section for tires that might work. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
alright the rear tire is bald in the middle and I now have some head shake in the front end decision time! its down to either the pirelli mt75s in 100/80 120/80 or pirelli diablo in 110/70 140/70 I mainly use the blast to commute... altho its a pretty aggressive commute. damn near lost it in the first turn on a cold tire yesterday. fast turn ins + cold tires = late apex and using the road all the way to the curb | ||
| Swampy |
The headshake! Tighten the steering head bearings and it will go away. That cured it for both Blasts. | ||
| Ezblast |
I'd say either tire would work, the larger lower profile would help for quicker handling. EZ | ||
| Fast1075 |
I get a little head shake if I push mine hard while running across paint stripes...my bearings are tight...I will be adding a steering damper. | ||
| Reuel |
Strange. I've never had head shake. Once, when I was taking a 30 mph curve at 65, my butt hanging off, and me leaning way over, I hit a bump that I always knew about, but forgot about it that day. I got a single, sudden bounce on the handlebars that made me think I was losing control. My right foot bounced on the ground along with the right peg.  I pulled out of the curve with nothing more than a further beveled boot and foot peg.  | ||
| Fast1075 |
I don't get the scary tank slapper kind of thing...it is self correcting...but it can catch me off guard and at my age I dont need any distractions mid turn  | ||
| Styxnpicks |
ya its not bad like tank slap... I got that hitting some gravel once... not fun, you do notice it in a high speed turn and if you let off the bars at speed | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Head shake can be caused by a few things and I think some of the things mentioned as 'head shake' are really just traction loss or road imperfections. I'd say go with the stock MT75's. They were designed for the Blast and have less tire to wheel rim ratio. They'll give more road feedback (probably). If you have the money to gamble try the Pirelli Diablo scooter tires. They are largely untested by Blasters. See my post above about oversized tires. The larger tires will definitely feel more stable, but my experience is that once the Blast is leaned over the twitchiness of the stock sized tires goes away. If your regularly traveled roads are in poor condition, you may benefit from the added tire size. PS just getting a matched set of new tires will make a huge difference. I'd personally love to see you try out the Diablo's, but that doesnt seem the best advice to me. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
my roads are TERRIBLE. getting the steering head torqued to spec seemed to help with my wobble. you couldn't really feel it while riding but if you were cruising about 25 and let off the bars you I could see the ocillation. I love how quick the blast handles tho. makes warming up the tires for my short 6 mile commute fun. I can't wait to get rid of that stock dunlop front.. and the rear tire might hold air longer than a month now. oh ya I also found out I was a quart low on oil. I guess the blast likes to eat oil | ||
| Styxnpicks |
got the new pirelli rubber on.... WOW!!! I was so used to the 7 year old worn out dunlop front and bald mt75 rear that I almost layed the bike over pulling out of my driveway. the bike with the new rubber almost steers itself. I used to have to fight the bike going into the turns.... now I have to opposite problem I have to fight it coming out of the turn | ||
| Reuel |
So, I'm riding to and from work last week, worn out to the point that I probably should have driven a cage for safety's sake. I go to ride Friday evening, and the left bearing is completely gone. In fact, it's so far gone that the inside shaft that the axle goes through has spun around and worn the aluminum from the hole. So, on the right side, there's a small hole, and on the left side there's a big hole, but there's still enough lip for a bearing to seat properly. My worry is that the axle will depend on the bearing for all structural strength. Do I need a new rear wheel at this point? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Huh? Its sounds as if you need a new wheel, but I'm not really sure what you've worn down. If the bearing is slightly loose, as in it will fall out, it can be saved. If where the bearing seats in the hub is worn, then maybe not. Normally, on one side there is a big hole, the other small. What I think you're describing is normal?! Is the axle worn? Bearings $10-$20, 'new' wheel $60 (+ $30 shipping). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/290050.html?1183577911 | ||
| Reuel |
Here's pictures:  This looks normal, but dirty.  This looks like the hole is much bigger. I believe it wasn't like this before. I would have noticed last time I changed the bearings myself. Note the outer part of the bearing is still there. Memory tells me that both sides matched the shaft that goes through the wheel. | ||
| Swampy |
That looks like the outter bearing race is still in the wheel. Maybe a new bearing is all you need. | ||
| Reuel |
Yup. The race is still there. The wheel material will no longer meet the axle tube whatever it's called. I'm thinking that the holes may be small to keep that axle tube in place, and won't be required for proper operation. So, I'll take it to a shop tomorrow and see if it can be pulled out easily or not. I'm running low on Dremel cutting disks. It's either that or $202 for a new one. I saw one on Ebay for $250 used. That's funny! (Message edited by Reuel on June 23, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Wheels at top dollar go for $100 on e-bay. usually less. Slowhand may have an extra. The wheel surfaces never touch the axle tube/bearing spacer. One side is small as a locator, the other side is big. If the race is stuck, that might be a good sign you didnt waste the hub. | ||
| Reuel |
It sounds like the opposite side from what your post said that you linked above. Thing is, I've decided I'm completely sure that both sides were small to keep the tube lined up. I talked to a couple different people. Apparently, if your bearing fails completely, the first thing to go is that metal that holds the bearing spacer. If the tube itself is intact and the outer race is intact, and there's enough material to keep the bearing from going inside the wheel, I'm fine. I'll check the bearing every time I put air in the tire, which is every day that I ride. My only regret is I don't have the cash to powder coat it while I have both bearings out.  | ||
| Ezblast |
I feel your pain brother! | ||
| Xgecko |
I cut the races out of my rear wheel with a dremel, it sucks but it's doable... | ||
| Berkshire |
As long as both bearings press in snugly, the wheel should be okay - that small I.D. part on the right side doesn't locate the inner spacer with any precision anyway - it's at least 1/16" larger than the spacer O.D., and probably closer to 1/8". You can just stick a big screwdriver thru to the middle and push the spacer whichever way it needs to go to line up. Powdercoating isn't the only way to color a wheel - they can just be rattle can painted, same as anything else. The bearings don't need to be removed, but rotors & sprocket should be off. If you get funds for powder coating later or don't like the color, you can always spray the wheels with aircraft stripper (pep boyz, o'reillys) and the paint will come right off. | ||
| Reuel |
It took me 10 minutes to get the shaft lined up! Aside from that, it's fine. | ||
| Jpa |
Rear Brakes Squeal! Since day one until my current 200 miles on my '08 Blast the rear brakes have been squealing and now that my mods are done it's time to get rid of this noise. Couldn't find any posts on this on either forum and really don't want to take the bike to the dealer so if anyone has run into this problem and has a fix either me or my harley mechanic buddy can do I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks, Jim. | ||
| Swampy |
Brake squealing can come from a couple of areas. Mostly from the friction material and disc, sometimes from loose components. The easiest/cheapest way is to use ear plugs. The next way is to to get the pads worn in. Remove the pads, place a sheet of medium/coarse sand paper on a flat surface, then rub up the friction surface on the pad. Reinstall everything, then make a few(10-20) hard stops(not lock ups) and see how it is. You only have 200 miles on it so the rear brakes are probably slightly glazed either from oil contamination or dragging. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You might also want to de-glaze the brake rotor with some sandpaper, but at 200 miles, it's hard to believe there's much. " Couldn't find any posts on this on either forum"Thats because this seems to be a rare occurrence on the Blast! | ||
| Fast1075 |
I wonder if the new bikes have a more agressive pad material...the really agressive pads do tend to squeal a bit...I ran Ferodo powered iron pads on the Gixxer brakes I used on the small tire drag bike...they squealed like crazy with light application, but would haul it down better than any brakes I had ever used before...my home track only had a 500 ft shutdown lane...135 to zero with margin for safety... I think you should give it some more break in time. | ||
| Berkshire |
"...my home track only had a 500 ft shutdown lane..."  that's barely enough for an 1/8th mile track! Who owned the place - Mr. Wilwood? |
