| Author | Message | ||
     Indybuell |
OK, Here's the link. http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/767884772.h tml Looks like it has the pro-series intake/exhaust. Also, in one of the pictures it looks like the gear shift lever is a little closer to the front peg than it should be. Anyways, as I mentioned before, I am a total noob. I've had my permit for about 4 days now, and haven't actually ridden anything that could be considered a motorcycle. When looking at a used bike, what should I ask/look for? Should I try to take it around the block? Do you guys see anything wrong from these pictures? | ||
| Ezblast |
Looks like a very good deal - just remember to carry around an extra intake boot and stubby screw driver. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
Should I ask if he has the stock intake, or is there a different intake that wouldn't give me as much trouble? I get to check it out tonight at 6:30. Does it look like its been laid down to you? Looks like some scuffs on the left footpeg area. | ||
| Indybuell |
Also, FYI, I am looking for more MPG than pure WOT power  This is going to be my daily commuter (22 city / country road miles.) | ||
| Johnnymac |
Hard to tell from those pics. If it's only 3 miles from you then it's worth the trip to take a look and inspect it closely. Man what I wouldn't do to find a newer, low mileage Blast like that with the pro series intake and exhaust. Especially the exhaust! | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats all Pro-Series gear on it - if you are an mpg kind of person, keep looking for a stocker. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
Think it gets at least 60 MPG? | ||
| Mytripb |
Some of the scuffs look like they could be from the persons boot, mine have left scuffs like that. If you have never ridden before, I would try to find someone who has had experience riding and bring them with you to check it out. If you have a trustworthy Buell dealership, see if the guy would bring the bike to the dealership and have them go over it. | ||
| Berkshire |
"...like the gear shift lever is a little closer to the front peg than it should be." Must be due to wide-angle camera lens - shifter is stock and pegs & hangers don't look bent. I wouldn't worry much about the gas mileage - while the pro-series pipe will give more power on the top end, it's really more of a low-to-midrange torque design, and that type performance mod isn't generally detrimental to fuel economy - by making the engine more efficient, it may even improve it a bit. Ditto on the free-flowing air cleaner. That's assuming the rider still behaves as if it were stock - acceleration is addictive, and abuses must be paid for at the gas pump! Even in that case, mileage would still be pretty good, just not quite as good as if ridden in a more subdued manner. Now, with stage III head work, big bore, big pipe, and an N9 cam... .  | ||
| Dankno |
Sounds like you better grab that one quick before one of us gets a signature loan and beats ya to it! LOL! | ||
| Indybuell |
Its Mine... Well, I have to convince the bank to let me have it, but yeah, it is in pretty good shape. The only damage was a broken right front turn signal where it fell in the garage into a wall. Rides Awesome. Sounds Awesome. Mods Include Pro Series Exhaust, intake and Cams. | ||
| Berkshire |
Yeah, 60+ mpg should be the norm while you're a new rider. Those look like typical boot scuffs on the peg hangers. If it's been down, the rider peg hangers may be bent inward at the bottom when viewed from far behind \ /, instead of straight | | , but they can be bent back. Droppage also may show on the pegs, turn signals, mirrors, bar ends, levers, and maybe the blue parts - could be pretty much anywhere, but only 2 or 3 spots per occurrence unless it was a bad wreck. It will look like a rough patch where the surface has been ground down like from extra-coarse sand paper, not a smooth "color transfer" rub mark. The left peg looks virgin, so either it's been replaced, or the bike hasn't been ridden aggressively - on corners, anyway. Look the bike over first before starting it. Look for damage, and if you see something ask the seller specifically "do you know what this --> is from?" It should start right up and go to a somewhat fast idle, then after it warms up the idle should drop slightly which will make the exhaust sound more POPish. At WOT it will be loud. When shifting to 1st, hold the clutch in 5-10 seconds to minimize the grinding sound, which is normal and apparantly not too harmful. Ignore any rattling type sounds from the primary (left side) and "clunk" or "clank" sound when shifting - also normal - unless it's VERY loud and/or accompanied by ill behavoir and/or sounds like devastation happening and isn't the N --> 1st shift. If it has been driveway dropped and they fixed the scratched parts, don't worry about it - the Blast was designed to handle low-speed drops with only cosmetic damage. You either change out the scratched pieces for shiny ones, or just live with it... or maybe take it off for "weight savings"! If it's had a severe enough crash to cause mechanical damage (frame, forks, motor, swingarm), the seller may be honest enough to tell you, or you may notice the rear wheel not being straight or the front wheel not being square to the handlebars or something, or it may pull to one side when riding on flat pavement - but just judging by the ad & pics, my guess would be that it's in good shape. The price seems a bit high, but considering apparant good condition, PS pipe & air, low mileage, and recent Blast market upswing, I wouldn't expect to negotiate below 3K unless it has some battle scars that don't show in the pics - but you should do your own pricing research... | ||
| Berkshire |
Mods Include Pro Series Exhaust, intake and Cams The factory-approved mods for overall performance boost with no aftermarket side-effects - you're going to love it! It seems likely the jets would've been changed, but if not they're about $15 for the pair. Hey, you can be the 1st one to try out the new 1125CR handlebars! | ||
| Indybuell |
What do the CR bars run? | ||
| Reuel |
Get it! The foot pegs have boot wear. At some point, you might want to take them off and have them repainted, but then again, maybe not. Get it! | ||
| Swampy |
Just having the Pro Series stuff is probably worth it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - just carry an extra boot and a stubby screwdriver and you'll be fine, you could brace the intake with springs, so the carb doesn't go rolling down the road, if a boot failure does occur, however, thats a stomping great deal with all those mods already done, a few carb mods and you'll be totally stoked for a long time to come - I'm talking needle shimming to .05 - 2 #6 brass machined washers, and making sure your jetting is at least 45/175 and the air screw 2 2/3rds out from light bottom for that application. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
The CR just came out so that is a question you'd have to ask a dealer, but they look choice! Also I notice that those pegs are practically virgin - your going to have great fun shredding them - lol EZ | ||
| Reuel |
Um, the carburetor won't roll down the road. The throttle cables and TPS/Autoenrich wires will hold it in. I just proved it yesterday.  | ||
| Indybuell |
Which boot are you talking about? The elbow mount between the carb and the filter itself? | ||
| Ezblast |
The rubber coupling between the carb and the manifold - why risk damaging your cables and wires, when the springs will at least keep it in place - even if blown off the manifold. EZ | ||
| Indybuell |
Hmm... I didn't see any kind of rubber coupling. the plastic from the intake looked like it was mounted directly to the carb. I will post a couple pics once I pick it up. | ||
| Berkshire |
It's on the opposite side of the carb from the filter elbow - looks like a short piece of radiator hose with two clamps on it. 27443-00Y Manifold Coupler - $9.25 retail It would be wise to get a spare and carry it under the seat. All you need is a regular screwdriver and about 2 minutes to change it. The boots have a tendency to tear across at the top, parallel to the clamps, either under them or along the edge - especially if the clamps are very tight. It's hard to see a tear until it gets pretty far along, you'll probably notice the bike running badly first. | ||
| Indybuell |
Thanks guys! I am picking it up in the morning. Any idea what a replacement front turn signal housing will cost me? I'm sure its under $20. | ||
| Swampy |
They are cheap from Buell dealers. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Definitely under $20, probably half that or less. Congratulations! Good deal. Dont worry about the boot. Quite a few, myself included, have put many miles on the PS intake without any problems and without the carb braced. But since you'll now worry, a boot and a screwdriver do fit easily under the seat and they are very easy (and cheap) to change! | ||
| Reuel |
$6.49 +/- for a complete turn signal. If you want LEDs in that housing, send me email! |
