| Author | Message | ||||||
     Gearheaderiko |
The E6204 is a general use part number not specific to Buell. A local bearing shop should have them. 2000 parts book lists front and rear bearings as the same (6204). 2002 and later lists the front bearing as different (E0001.T)(wheel assembly part # is also different). (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 04, 2007) | ||||||
| Buellistic |
Xgecko: "WELL" if you had FACTORY PARTS BOOK you would know that a lot faster ... They are the same and the PART NUMBER you need to buy them at a BEARING STORE is on the BEARING ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||||
| Xgecko |
I have my parts manual and my maintenance manual...however it's in a box that may or may not have gotten lost in storage I am still going through boxes along with working on my house. I'm not gonna rip open boxes until I have places to put their contents. BTW I have had both since the day they were made available by the mother company. Interesting that the wheel assembly changed in 2002 | ||||||
| Buellistic |
Xgecko: "Semper Fi" The numbers on the BEARINGS are all you need to give a "BUELLschitte" about any way !!! The BEARING STORE will cross refferance them and give you the correct bearing/bearings and even the BEST(better than the OEM bearing/bearings) if you ask ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||||
| Xgecko |
Semper Fi is for Jarheads I'm a squid and We prefer Semper Madidus | ||||||
| Buellistic |
Xgecko: duh, what does Semper Madidus stand for ??? Was that bearing INFO of use ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||||
| Xgecko |
Semper Madidus is "always drunk" yes the the info was very useful my local bearing store has them in stock in various quality's I'll be picking two up after lunch | ||||||
| Xgecko |
update...It seems that my 2000 blast is a Mutant....because the bearing is not a 6204 like the manual says...instead it's a 2002 front end which uses a version of a 6203 bearing which isn't remotely normal. I found my manuals today and I'm updating the part numbers that I know are different (still looking for the rear pulley and belt part numbers)I picked a bearing that will work from the bearing store and ordered the "Buell" part from my local motorcycle shop. BTW if anyone would be kind enough to send me a scan of the the parts side of the the pages labeled "Belts and Sprockets" and "Front wheel" I would appreciate it hugely | ||||||
| Joey |
Yup. The front bearings are completely different and rare, too. Somewhere I asked about the front bearings, too. Was it here? ... Just checked. Look here in the archives, and you'll find 6203. (Message edited by joey on July 06, 2007) | ||||||
| Xgecko |
yes but it's a 6203R which is about 16.5mm wide as opposed to a 6203 regular which is 12mm wide and the 6203RR that I have right now which is about 20mm wide...BTW according to the bearing place I bought mine from both the R and the RR variants are used primarily on printing presses. Why did Buell have to change from the easy to find 6204 to this weird a$$ bearing | ||||||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Xgecko |
thank you ERIC I just printed that and replaced that page in my Parts manual | ||||||
| Buellistic |
Xgecko: Weird A$$ bearing is just more BMC "BUELLschitte" ... "BUT" if you think out of the box and can improvise you can get around anything !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||||
| Xgecko |
you can work outside the box on the left side (I did) but the right has to be OEM bearings (Message edited by xgecko on July 07, 2007) | ||||||
| Baggermike |
I just put in new wheel bearings and was riding my son home and the sprocket side came apart, I do not know what damage I did riding home but would like to know if there was suppose to be a washer next to the bearing and then the spacer, or maybe I need a new wheel and would like to know what wheels fit the blast so maybe I can find ones on ebay that are better, thanks Mike. | ||||||
| Ezblast |
New Blast wheels are inexpensive - ebay - no more than 60 would I offer. EZ | ||||||
| Baggermike |
Ok thanks, I want to turn the bike into a better bike, I bought it to teach my son to ride and was a 2002 with 6000 miles and got ripped off the bike has way more miles, got it off ebay and was sold as is and has been trouble thence then, I got a big bore kit and want to hop it up and just make the bike better than new with better wheels and brakes, do you know if any of the other buell wheels would fit with modifications, I kind of like the bike and want to turn it into something different. Mike | ||||||
| Ezblast |
I can brake with one finger using Galfer pads - two fingers for an emergency stop - you need more? Wow! M2 wheels with the M2 swing arm adjuster welded to the end of the Blast swing arm and a M2 chain conversion, though I guess they could have used a belt as well, since the new XB Belts are supposed to be indestructible and just so happen to fit the Tubers as well - so was winked at and nudged at a Buell dinning event, so would be my option over chain. It should be one of the first Thumper pics posted here - taken at a Battletrax - This was the latest switch over I've seen - very well done - though the lighting is still a bit strange to me - the rest of the bike is quite well done.    EZ | ||||||
| Baggermike |
Yes this is something I would like to do, the stock suspension sucks and do not trust the bike, I have a ulysses for my son when he feels like he can handle it, and I have the 1125 but the blast it fun to ride and with mods it could be a Blast. I do not like the lights either but that is an easy fix, thanks. Mike | ||||||
| Baggermike |
EZ do you know what fork clamps are one this bike, I like the front and rear wheels and think this is the way to go, I can weld so that helps it is just finding the right parts at the right price. Any info you can give me would help. thanks Mike | ||||||
| Ezblast |
Actually a better set up is to go with the Works shock, Keep the same wheel profile in the oversized tire, use the gold valves, works front springs (or Progressive) kit, and 7.5 fork oil, maybe a 1/4 " shim - depending on weight - keeps the bike very agile - its long suite, maybe add a damper for the kids safety - wedge yourself to the back of the Corbin - clip-ons to the fore and you'll be Cafe styling - EZ | ||||||
| Ezblast |
I think they are Gixxer pieces - all the info was posted here - I think http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/188335.html?1142637639 EZ | ||||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bagger. There is a lot of info in the thumper archives, so do a search (no offense, I'm sure thats how EZ found the pictures). There is a lot of parts that will swap over if you have a welder and access to a machine shop. Plenty of bikes use 'skinny' 17" wheels and a couple have converted to Tuber wheels. Its not a common conversion though and I dont think any 2 are the same. The stock suspension can be made much better with some mods, but I'd agree with you if you said the front was a little anorexic. | ||||||
| Berkshire |
"...would like to know if there was suppose to be a washer next to the bearing and then the spacer" Mike, there should only be a spacer between the bearing and the swingarm. A flat washer goes outside the swingarm on each side, with lockwasher & nut on the right. | ||||||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Berkshire I am buying a used rear wheel but will try the old bearing I got out of the other side, I was sure it did not need a washer there because I did not take one off, but never know what someone else did. Mike | ||||||
| Berkshire |
For reference: FAG no. 6204.2RSR.C3 - $11.89 total for BOTH, incl. tax From local bearing place (Indust. Bearing & Svcs.) I thought the phone salesman quoted me $11.89 EACH, but I didn't want to argue w/ the guy at the pick-up counter! I called a number of places, including Honda. The next lowest price was about $14.9x for a pair of SKF at another bearing place. I asked all (3 or 4) of the bearing places if there was ceramic or anything better than the SKF, and was told by all that SKF is a top quality manufacturer, and no ceramic (an online place had stainless steel for about $75). The place I bought from said FAG was maybe a little better. It's a German company, but the ones I got were made in Portugal. From online research, it appears that ALL 6204 series bearings from ALL "bearing manufacturers" are ABEC-1 (lowest grade), and there AREN'T any made in ABEC-3, 5, 7, or 9 (highest). Also, there COULD be bearings made that don't even meet ABEC standards at all! Apparantly they just can't call themselves a "bearing manufacturer"... Oddly enough, the right one was in much better shape than the left - and the left wasn't THAT bad yet... Original bearings, 14K mi., subjected to many hose spray washings from 4K to 9K, and run very hard the last 5K. | ||||||
| Berkshire |
"One thing about the BLAST is you can do 'PREVENTIVE MAINTAINCE' and Re-grease The wheel bearings on the bike without dissasembly..." I experimented with one of my old bearings after I took it out of the wheel. The only place I could find to get a grip on the seal was around the inner diameter, by sticking a jeweler's screwdriver between the inner bearing race and the soft part of the seal and prying outward, and the seal wouldn't come off unless I used enough force to mess it up. It seems like it would be even harder with the wheel on the bike. So... what's the trick? Is there a special tool? Where did you get it? Got any pictures? | ||||||
| Ezblast |
He used a grease syringe. EZ | ||||||
| Onecos |
Replaced rear wheel bearings. Do I need to replace the 4 1/2" spacer inside the wheel? Please advise. | ||||||
| Berkshire |
Y E S - You MUST have a spacer installed, or you will ruin the bearings when you tighten the axle nut!!! but... NO, you don't need a NEW one. Just clean it up with a wire brush or something, and put grease or anti-sieze on it so it won't be so corroded next time. |
