| Author |
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Reuel
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 10:58 pm: | 
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Have someone drive next to you and have him go up to 60 MPH. Look on your speedo. It probably will read 70 or something. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 12:56 am: |
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Yuppers - doesn't look like it is there - doh!
EZ |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 03:04 pm: |
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Waiting on them to call back. I pulled up the recall PDF and don't see anything like that under the seat. And I'm pretty sure that harness above is the speedo harness.
I rode it in to work this morning. If the speedometer is off this bike has gained one hell of a performance increase. 0-70/80 is improved drastically. Accelerating from 50/60 to pass cars is also much much better.
The only things I'm concerned about is how fast I'm actually going, and two new "symptoms".
The old belt/sprocket made a clicking noise when I pushed the bike around. On the new parts that sound is gone, and has been replaced with whirling/chirping at highway speed, most noticeable when pulling the clutch while braking, but I hear it at constant speed now two. It's similar to the sound those toy cars that you rub on the floor to get it spun up then release to watch it shoot across the floor. It's pitch is definitely in sync with the speed of the belt. Is the belt just being broken in? Is this normal with the newer belt / sprocket?
The other thing is vibration. I know these bikes vibrate, but I don't remember it vibrating at highway speeds of 60mph. I only rode it 3 times this way and one of those times I had my front tire out of balance, so maybe I just don't remember. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 03:31 pm: |
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2000s vibrate more than the rest of the years due to the extra motor link stabilizer, however, take a peek at your front Isolator and make sure it looks good - it could just be going out - lol
That black box is to recalibrate your speedo for the different ratio you are now running.
Keep an eye on the sprocket - make sure the belt is ok on it, then you should be fine - please listen carefully for where the sounds are coming from.
I'm glad Glendale understood that their customer service is being observed - and I hope in the end you'll be totally satisfied with their service, however, a 2000 is an older bike and stuff is going to happen. The isolator going could be one of them.
EZ |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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I'm looking at the service manual, I think I see where the front isolator is located. I'll see if I can find it tonight. What signs am I looking for to know it's bad?
What should I be looking for with the belt?
Thank you EZ and to the rest of BadWeb for help with Gail's HD and this whole situation. I owe you all a taco and margarita / beer. |
Reuel
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 04:13 pm: |
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That wiring harness is for the rear lights. I tied into that when I put my blinker controller in. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
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Look for cracks, tares, shredding, under the top washer should be a little hat shape of rubber sticking up before the main body of the Isolator, you should not see any of the middle metal part - top or bottom, from the bottom it should look like a black mushroom if its ok, if it has a metal stem then rubber has pulled from the body and it is no good also - use a flashlight to fully inspect it.
EZ |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 10:36 am: |
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Last night I think I found the correct wiring harness, but things are zip tied down tight in there.
It looks like I'm redlining at 35mph in 1st.
I'll check the front isolator tonight.
Thanks! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 10:57 am: |
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35 is correct for 1st, the question is are you actually going 35?
EZ |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 07:39 pm: |
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They showed me where it was... it was tucked up under the frame farther than I would have thought to look. They also ordered the reflectors.
While I was there I had them look at the front isolator. They pulled out a flashlight and just like you said EZ, it had a nice tear around it. $18.99 for the part... $143 for labor... ugh.
The Buell tech showed me the wrenches he used to get it out... neither of which I have. I can probably borrow my neighbor's jack again to get the bottom supported and strap it down... Is this something I can do myself? I'm peering at the 2002 PDF Service Manual now. |
Reuel
| | Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 08:19 pm: |
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I'd have done it for half that! Of course, it's a long ride to South-Central Delaware. |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 12:23 am: |
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After looking at how extensive this is, I'm sure it's something I could tackle if I had a few days and money to spend on a few more tools, but I don't.
When I was talking with them they said something about the warrenty cost being $98 and the customer cost being $143... If I can get them to do it for $98 I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet.
It would sure be nice to ride this thing for a week and not have to spend another $$$ to keep it going 
On top of that I ran out of gas today and had to flip to reserve. I only had 95 miles on the tank. Thought that was odd. Previous ower told me they filled up when they had about 140 miles on the tripodometer. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 12:54 am: |
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It probably went for test rides - lol - doing the Isolator is a tricky thing - you have to do it just right or it will be fubared - and you'd end up doing it again a week later - lol - ask me how I know; still, I'm going to the latest Tuber Isolator - which is actually five bucks less than the older model, however, it is supposed to be the strongest - and being a big guy with with bikes having stiffer suspensions I don't want to keep changing it every 5000 miles, so I'm stepping up to them - for regular folks with regular Blasts the regular one is fine. Tips: Torque from the bottom, a lite coat of oil between the washers and the rubber, and use new bolts, nuts, and snubber, and keep the motor supported with a jack - you should be good to go.
EZ |
Reuel
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 08:06 am: |
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Tell me what went wrong. I just removed the old one and put in the new one, making sure I didn't put anything upside down. I haven't checked it lately ... |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 12:52 pm: |
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LOL - you should probably give them a quick check once a month.
EZ |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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NOTED! If EZ says something is "tricky" do not attempt this at home 
Gail's did it this morning for $98 (warranty price). It still feels like it's vibrating more than it used to but the plastics are not making noise like it did.
Will those weights / sliders that go in the bar ends make any difference? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 07:13 pm: |
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Its a 2000 its going to vibrate a bit more than 2001 and up Blasts - I have both, I know - lol - you could do the Isolator, if you use the tips I gave you, and take your time - don't be impatient and you'll be golden, hardest part is torquing the the middle bolt to spec. recommend several extensions -
EZ |
Reuel
| | Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 07:50 pm: |
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New isolator makes the vibration constant, instead of resonating at higher RPMs. When it goes bad, lower speed vibrations are less evident in the feet, higher speed vibrations are more evident. |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 02:30 am: |
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Well after putting some miles on the bike today the vibration is back to normal. I can live with the feel of the vibration that is left, but I'd like to keep the mirrors from vibrating so much. Will handlebar bar end sliders (the weighted kind) make any difference there? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 03:06 am: |
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yes |
Fast1075
| | Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 06:34 am: |
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I was amazed at how vibration free the stock mirrors on stock bars were...the superbike bars and bar end mirrors are a bit fuzzy, but usable in a general sense, but i'm sure it has a lot to do with the lower mass of the mostly non-metallic mirror assembly material.But i'm not going back to the mickey mouse ear mirrors. |
Luckdragon
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 10:50 am: |
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Yesterday, I decided to follow the advice of this forum and upgrade to the Avon viper-stryke 140/70/16 rear tire. So. I carried my new tire to my long-haired Harley guru and explained to him about hammering in the shock tab to accommodate the larger tire as recommended by this forum. When I retrieved my little beauty, to my horror, I was told by the guru that he did not bash in the shock tab (as he was reluctant to take a hammer to suspension parts) and the tire fit anyway. Well, be damned if there isn't about a quarter inch of clearance between the tab and tire. We checked the clearance while I bobbed up and down on the bike through the full travel of the shock. I rode the bike about 12 miles and the tire is not hitting the tab. As my old drivers-ed teacher once told me, "a miss is as good as a mile", I am thinking that the shock tab bash isn't really needed.Can someone tell me why I am wrong? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 11:08 am: |
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Tires heat up and expand, and a new tire still has to discover its shape and become less rounded - a few hundred miles on the tire and its shape would be altered enough to not warrant the tab mod, however, it will when new - unless you don't do any long rides the first few hundred miles - lol
EZ |
Reuel
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 03:40 pm: |
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Slight tolerances could have given you just enough room. Check the tire after high speed long rides for marks in the middle. |
Luckdragon
| | Posted on Friday, November 21, 2008 - 05:47 pm: |
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Thanks EZ and Reuel-- In addition to EZ's warm tire theory I'm thinking that centrifugal force may expand the diameter of the tire at highway speed. But I am an old fart (59) and seldom exceed 65-70 mph.(I didn't get old by acting stupid) So, I will keep an eye on this tire and if it even pretends to touch that shock tab its hammer time. By the way, that big Avon really rides better than the stock size. |
Luckdragon
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 04:40 pm: |
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Here is a little update, for those who are interested. Yesterday I completed a 220 mile outing from Alexandria, La to Lake Charles, La and back. I figured that this would be THE test for my oversize Avon and virgin shock-tab. I am pleased to report that the tire and tab did not kiss, much less mate during the ordeal. Therefore for my tire and my bike the shock-tab smackdown was not needed. I will admit that the 60 degree weather did not allow exploration of EZs warm tire theory |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 06:44 pm: |
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And now with a few hundred miles under their belts they will have a more consistent shape, wider contact patch and you probably won't have to worry about it any more - we have only been talking about the first few hundred miles - just as a safety precaution, because it can happen - lol - it has for me - still thats great news!
EZ |
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